Zorya

Inspired by viruses, jewelry designers grow crystals on rope

by Adam Štěch

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Exploring the formation of the jewel as a natural process and celebrating it as a performance, the latest collection of distinct jewelry from the conceptual Prague-based designers Daniel Pošta and Zdeněk Vacek of Zorya fuses dynamic drama with simple beauty.

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The Virus collection, the most experimental project to date from this creative pair, launched last October at Designblok 2011 Prague design week. Their previous jewelry includes strangely organic creations of raw beauty in which biomorphological inspiration meets precise technical execution with materials such as gold, silver and stainless steel, as well as textiles, pearls and plastics—as exemplified in the pendants and earrings resembling flowers and beetles in the Bye Bye Birdie collection.

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Discovering new possibilities of the performative qualities of contemporary design, the Virus collection marks a new chapter in the work of Pošta and Vacek. Inspired by the natural processes and substance of every virus and their ability to take hold of their victims and spread, they have created process-based jewelry using simple chemical reactions. Their instrument was the crystallization of alum, which was grown on raw ropes to create natural crystal structures. The upshot is an unorthodox connection of materials with natural and creative art processes.

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The elegant collection, which was awarded the main prize at the annual Czech Grand Design Awards, is characterized by a beauty that seems both brutal and fragile.

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Zorya’s collections range between $400-$1,000USD and are available at selected retailers in the Czech Republic, as well as at Charon Kransen Arts in NYC.


The Royal Mansour

Beauty and decadent service at Marrakech’s palatial property

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Anyone who books a luxury hotel surely wants the service to adhere to the old adage about being treated like a king, but Marrakech’s decadent Royal Mansour palace—originally intended to serve actual nobility—truly delivers such an experience. Overlooking the historic medina, Marrakech’s chaotic main marketplace, the hotel was personally commissioned by King Mohamed VI of Morocco to allow state guests. Completed in 2010, the perfect symmetry throughout the property represents the very best of Moorish architecture of Northern Africa, and every single item in the interior part of the space was handmade by a collaboration of local artisans whose decorative arts skills were passed down to them through many generations. Around every corner is another breathtaking example of geometrically chiseled sculptural cedar, zellige ornamental ceramic tile and smooth, shiny moulded tadelakt lime plaster work.

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The Royal Mansour grounds form a labyrinth of paved marble paths lined with olive trees that lead to 53 unique riads, each built in the traditional style of a Moroccan home. Fortunately room keys are housed in a wallet with an accompanying map so you won’t get lost. The ground floor of each riad has a courtyard with a fountain, as well as a drawing room with a seating area covered in bespoke furniture and an abundant pile of elegant silk pillows. The second floor comprises a bedroom, dressing room and study. The top floor of each riad also has a private terrace with a fireplace and a plunge pool, perfect for enjoying breakfast with a view of the sunrise over the Atlas mountains. We recommend traditional Moroccan pancakes, Beghrir and Msemen, lightly fried dough served with the Mansour’s homemade spreads: almond butter with honey, apricot preserves and chocolate cream.

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The rich three-bedroom riads include a library, private hamman and professional kitchen, and the complex houses one four-bedroom riad for those seeking a truly palatial experience away from home. There are no buttons or switches inside the riads—everything is controlled by a master touchscreen control panel.

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For dinner, two restaurants overseen by Michelin-starred chef Yannick Alléno represent the dichotomy of Morocco’s rich culinary traditions.
La Grande Table Marocaine offers outstanding versions of local specialties like sheep’s head, while La Grande Table Française serves traditional dishes like couscous and tagine for less daring diners. The restaurants have made the Mansour a top foodie destination in Africa, where innovative dishes like prawns and game meat with local seasoning are paired with an equally impressive wine list.

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The highlight of the Mansour is an unparalleled spa, which envelops guests in a rare sense of calm as they enter through a giant white wrought iron atrium reminiscent of a majestic birdcage. The experience begins in the “wellness lounge” with fresh lemon and ginger juice or a raw appetizer, from which guests can then choose between a traditional hamman for a scrub with black soap or an argan oil massage tailored to an individual’s needs. Guests can also enjoy deep steam baths or the covered greenhouse pool overlooking the gardens designed in the style of those on the grounds of the Alhambra Palace in Granada.

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The Royal Mansour complex becomes a different entity at night, scored by the sounds of running water throughout the numerous fountains lining the candlelit walkways. Although there are 500 staff members, about 10 for every riad, you’re not likely to see the majority of them. The compound operates through an underground city where 24-hour butlers have access to each riad. This level of attentiveness may take some getting used to, but if you’re seeking a getaway where anything you desire is reachable with the touch of a button, you’ll find comfort in the Royal Mansour’s legendary service.

Rue Abou Abbas El Sebti

40 000 Marrakech

Morocco

+212 5 29 80 80 80


Bottega Veneta Initials

When your own initials are enough
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Bottega Veneta joined the personalization club today with the launch of their Initials line at a five day pop up shop within their Milan showroom during the city’s busy design fair, and online through a specialized Initials site. Their trademark intrecciato (woven) pattern has become synonymous with subtle luxury and fine craftsmanship, and their beautifully rich leather goods have earned a cult following for their elegance as well as their durability. As Goyard, Louis Vuitton, Gucci and other luxury leather goods companies have long offered personalization, it’s moved from a trend to an integral way to make these products your own. Feeling its products were not properly constructed to support monograms however, Bottega Veneta put a plan in place to create a new collection designed exclusively for the program.

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We were invited to stop by the pop up shop to see the product first-hand and to go through the personalization process. The familiar feeling line includes a variety of totes, wallets, handbags, messenger bags, an iPad case and a belt, ranging in price from $350 – $2,150. Though similar in shape and size to existing products, the 15 items in the mens/womens/unisex collection have in fact been reengineered with different Nappa leathers; the women’s products use lambskin for a softer and slouchier effect, the men’s use calfskin and are thicker, firmer and sturdier. The suede backing is new for the collection, and consideration has gone into the design process to determine where your initials should sit on the product.

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Bottega selected a handful of expert artisans to carry out the hand painted monogram process with careful precision that’s only developed over a lifetime. While many of the editors on hand chose a combination of the type options—six colors of the leather, three sizes and eight colors of the letters—we stuck to a monotone palette that’s subtle but still makes a statement.

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The Bottega Initials site is already operating and well worth a mention as well. Inviting you to enter your initials upon entry, the well designed site presents all products sporting your monogram already, offering a glimpse at what could be. You can then modify the size and color of the letters until you get it just right. If you’re looking for a bigger statement, personalized luggage is scheduled to arrive later this year.

For a closer look at the pop up shop and its offers see the gallery below.

by Evan Orensten and Graham Hiemstra


2013 Boxster

The first comprehensive redesign of the entry-level Porsche since its introduction in 1996
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With a welcome redesign, the 2013 Boxster is once again the sexy gateway model to the rush of owning a Porsche. The brand unveiled the car’s most comprehensive design overhaul since its introduction in 1996 this week at the NY International Auto Show, showing off a 2013 that builds on the iconic 550 Spyder to be lighter, lower, wider and more powerful than before.

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The 2013 amplifies the thrill of driving a mid-engine car with a body made from a composite aluminum and steel that reduces weight without compromising strength. The rear wing deploys automatically as in previous iterations but is now flanked by LED taillights. Under the hood the new model’s flat-six engine is available in both a base and upgraded S. This divide reveals output differences of 265hp vs 315hp and a top speed of 164mph and 173mph in favor of the S.

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To improve handling the new Boxster is now equipped with Porsche Torque Vectoring (PTV), a helpful bit of technology that redistributes torque by internally controlling braking on rear wheels, making the Boxster even more of a roadster than ever. The 2013 Porsche Boxster will be available Summer 2012 with a base sticker price of $49,500.


Petrossian Caviar Master Class

Armen Petrossian and chef Giselle Wellman give a culinary lesson in California sturgeon
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Often regarded as the ultimate indulgence, caviar consists of non-fertilized, salted sturgeon roe. The prehistoric sturgeon has become a significant symbol in Russian culture, but the depletion of the once-prevalent population in the Caspian Sea compelled the government to issue a ban on fishing in 1998, which was extended another four years in January 2012. As a result, farmed caviar has become the most viable option for meeting demand for the tiny, bead-like delicacy.

Three Transmotanus varieties farmed in Northern California have become best sellers for industry-leader Petrossian in their Beverly Hills store—Classic, Royal and Averta President. Armen Petrossian calls the Transmotanus—which means “crossing the mountains”—an “excellent large fish with good flesh and bountiful eggs.” We recently had the opportunity to take a caviar master class at the store to learn more about caviar’s ocean-to-table journey and sample a rich array of freshly farmed sturgeon roe.

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Petrossian gets their supply from Sterling Caviar‘s Northern California farms, one of the first complete sturgeon aquaculture operations in the world. Sterling raises the fish in above-ground freshwater tanks that are monitored for water flow, oxygen levels and temperature and, during the caviar harvest—which this year began in early March—females deemed ready have their ovaries removed and eggs extracted. The eggs are carefully cleaned in cold water, weighed and then lightly salted and mixed by hand. The period from which the female is first identified on the farm to when she has her eggs removed lasts about eight years (during which time eggs are checked for color), but the actual process of removing the roe takes less than 30 minutes.

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“Transmotanus is raised mainly in California, I prefer to call it California sturgeon caviar,” said Petrossian, describing the process of sorting and grading the fish to sell at its optimal state. “We also made a name for it—we call it Alverta. This is a very interesting caviar because it is a large fish, with good meat and eggs that is close in taste to the ones from the Caspian Sea. You get more flavor with age. The complicated thing with caviar is that no one fish is comparable to another. That means that even in the same family and the same place, you will have huge differences between one fish and another. The difficulty is to forecast each fish in order for you to have it at the best condition.”

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For the master class, chef Giselle Wellman created a five-course menu to celebrate the flavors of the sea and highlight some of Petrossian’s newest and most popular caviars. Chefs in the Petrossian kitchens have found inspiration in the nuanced flavors of the tiny eggs, and a standout dish was a house-made caviar-flavored fettuccini topped with light cream sauce and caviar.

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The class included a tasting, which started with what Petrossian calls a “not caviar” paddlefish roe, followed by the American Hackleback, Royal Transmotanus, Alverta President, Tsar Imperial Siberian, Shassetra and Tsar Imperial Ossetra. The flight finished with a rich Kaluga ($481 for 50 grams), the progression offering a clearer understanding of the subtle differences in flavors and textures.

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“What we are bringing is like when they are making a bag at Hermes,” says Petrossian on the quality of their product. “It is not only a nice piece of leather, or a good grape to make wine. It’s not just because you have the raw material called sturgeon roe caviar. You need to have specific knowledge and experience in order to know how to separate and grade the caviar. That’s our job, to create levels, to create the quality of the caviar and to create the grades.”

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New in the Petrossian boutiques and online shop is Caviar Powder that offers the flavor of caviar with a longer shelf life. The powder can be eaten by sprinkling full beads or grinding the dried pearls into a powder that taste can be served with eggs, potatoes, pasta, smoked salmon or anything that would be more delicious with the addition of caviar flavor. Petrossian also makes Papierusse, which comprises thin sous vide sheets of caviar. Paired with a bubbly glass of champagne these creations are sure to induce decadent caviar filled dreams.


Geneva Auto Show

Four standouts by Ferrari, Bentley, Subaru and Toyota

Each year Geneva plays host to the International Motor Show, drawing in every relevant brand in the auto industry to show their latest, greatest and most innovative cars. While navigating the labyrinth of new releases and concept cars at the 2012 show we took note of four standouts across all categories of design, function and luxury.

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The star of the show: Ferarri F12berlinetta

While Geneva was packed with new model launches from almost every major manufacturer, the most consistently crowded floor belonged to Ferrari and its stunning new F12berlinetta. Even Internet leaks couldn’t dampen the enthusiasm for the model that Ferrari is calling the harbinger of a new V12 era. This is the most powerful and high-performance Ferrari ever, with aluminum construction using some alloys never before seen in a car. Aerodynamics play a critical role in the overall style of the F12, which Ferrari also claims to be the slipperiest they’ve ever made. While we were lukewarm on the overall styling in photos, in person it’s a horse of a different color (satin aluminum, to be precise). We look forward to getting behind the wheel soon.

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The head turner/head scratcher: Bentley EXP 9 F

Bentley also drew crowds, but for a very different reason: the already infamous SUV Concept EXP 9 F. Perhaps the most controversial SUV since the original Porsche Cayenne, the EXP was met with both derision and curiosity. Online opinion also appears to be mixed, with some claiming Bentley is diluting its rich heritage by building a truck while others are embracing the possibility of a high-performance British luxury SUV in the tradition of the estate car and shooting brake, albeit one that would make even the top Range Rover look pedestrian by comparison (and small—the EXP is enormous).

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One thing is clear: the EXP represents a large chunk of potential profit that Bentley could claim, especially in areas where both a commanding ride height and luxurious interior are in high demand (China and the Middle East, for example). While our opinion on the concept is mixed, we did get to sit down inside with its interior designer Robin Page to learn about the thinking behind the SUV.

Elements like a dual-use cabin interior that’s both luxurious and rugged, a traditional British hunting sport aesthetic and some advanced tech features combine to give the impression of a very thought-out and pure concept, especially impressive considering the time from sketch to show was less than nine months. There is no question that the EXP’s very existence is a controversial move for Bentley, and we were assured by more than one person within the company that this remains a concept built for feedback and to gauge interest. That said, we fully expect to be seeing a production version in some form within the next few years; we can only hope that some of the smarter elements of the interior make the cut.

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The Crowd Pleaser: Toyota GT86/ Subaru BRZ

Not every car can be a ultra-luxury SUV or a temperamental supercar. Sometimes simplicity is best, especially when trying to reach a new generation of driving fans. While not new to Geneva, this was our fist chance to get some one-on-one time with the Toyota GT86. Jointly developed by Toyota and Subaru (and almost identical—Subaru’s version will be sold as the BRZ, while the Toyota version will be sold by Scion in the U.S.), the GT86 represents a laser focus on pure driving joy at minimal cost.

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No magnetorheological dampening or push-to-start here—the purely functional GT86 uses springs and a key. The interior is spartan as well, but the short-throw gear changer feels solid in the hand and the seats are supportive buckets. Overall, it was refreshing to find a sporty rear-wheel drive 2+2 coupe with a manual transmission and a penchant for drifting for under $25,000.


Shang Xia

European luxury and traditional Chinese craftsmanship in a Shanghai boutique

by Alessandro De Toni

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In a bustling metropolis like Shanghai, Shang Xia‘s boutique strikes a balance between “human and nature”, a millenary value of Chinese culture that often appears to be lost in the country’s economic rush. Wood and sandstone are combined together with high-tech fiber to create a corner of peace, a unique and harmonious environment.

The Shang Xia brand was founded in 2008 by Chinese designer Jian Qiong Er and Hermès, one of the most well-known western luxury brands in China. Together, they collaborate on a line of furniture, decorative objects, jewelry and high-fashion garments entirely produced in China and characterized by excellent craftsmanship and understated simplicity.

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As the name Shang Xia implies—it translates to “up and down” in English—style is a state of harmony achieved by a dynamic flow of energy from the past, present and future. It’s a dialogue between tradition and contemporary taste, which aims to create a 21st-century lifestyle founded on the finest of Chinese design traditions.

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Among Shang Xia’s most beautiful crafts are the jewelry collections “Garden” and “Shan Shui”. In the former, the Taihu rock—an ancient symbol of wisdom and immortality—is combined with red sandalwood, jade, agate, gold and silver through a carving process that can take up to 300 hours.

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For “Shan Shui”, agate and jade are carved and polished in the shape of an ancient Chinese coin. The process requires abut 480 hours of craftsmanship by a single artisan who cuts and polishes the agate on a spinning wheel. It is an almost spiritual exercise that recalls samsara, the Sanskrit word for the ever-turning wheel of life.

Shang Xia

1F, South Tower, Hong Kong Plaza

283 Huaihai Middle Rd, Shanghai


Art at Opposite House

Local artists inspire guests with interactive works
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It’s hard to turn down an invitation to experience a few days in Beijing while staying at one of its hippest hotels, so when the Opposite House extended an invitation to visit we jumped at the opportunity. The hotel, along with its sister hotel Upper House in Hong Kong, strives to present a uniquely local experience wrapped in service with style, and perfectly suited to hyper-travelers like us. While certainly impressed by little details like in-room check-in and free mini-bars, the biggest surprise came in the form of the hotels’ art programs, particularly the constantly rotating artist program at Opposite House.

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Hotel art is notoriously subpar, typically taking the form of cheap prints hung without much thought. Not so at the Opposite House, where the offerings significantly transcend what we’ve typically seen. While the space is filled with excellent art from a range of Chinese artists, the hotel takes it a step further by hosting artists for three-month installation periods, customized by each artist, in the hotel’s massive central forecourt. The hotel is tapped into China’s contemporary artistic core, acting as a host to both established and up-and-coming artists of the city’s prolific talent pool.

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Approaching the emerald glass exterior of the Opposite House, the modernist styling blends seamlessly with surrounding bamboo gardens. A large atrium fills the interior while the front faces a traditional courtyard-style home, giving the hotel its witty name. The hotel spares no expense for luxury, and offers a number of bars (Punk and Mesh) and restaurants (the casual Village Cafe, the upscale Asian Bei, and my favorite, Sureño, with its Mediterranean menu).

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Opposite House works with the local Red Gate Gallery to create its shows, selecting mainly Beijing-based artists. The hotel keeps the content of these exhibitions as diverse as the interests of the artists themselves. During my visit, I was fortunate enough to witness “Through My Eyes” from Mo Yi and got a preview of “I-Ching,” an installation of sculptures by Huang Rui inspired by the the eponymous book, known in English as “The Book of Changes.”

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“Through My Eyes,” is an ever-expanding collection of photographed eyes that blurs the line between artist and audience. Participants pose for a photograph taken by the artist. Two prints are made: one the participant keeps and the second becomes part of the evolving installation, with inscriptions written in the borders by the subjects. While exploring the collection, I opted to be photographed and join the ranks of Mo’s subjects.

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“I-Ching” features 64 phrases from the book of changes, inscribed on black and white umbrellas for an installation with both active and passive elements. When the artist is not present, viewers enjoy sculptural groupings of the umbrellas. When the artist is in the hotel, people are invited to stand with the umbrellas and the artist in a circle decorated with the yin yang symbol and to have a one-on-one exchange with the artist, which may be spoken or silent depending on the artist’s desire. While superstitious westerners may be quick to forewarn the dangers of umbrellas indoors, Huang’s show was a hit amongst participating guests.

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I-Ching is currently on display, and is open to the public through March 2012. Previous artist exhibitions have included Chen Wenling’s sculptural series “Red Memory,” Li Xiaoling’s clothing-inspired “Enhance the Beauty” and a bespoke postcard collection from various students at Beijing’s Central Academy of Fine Arts.

Opposite House

11号 Sanlitun Road

Chaoyang, Beijing, China, 100027

Photos by Opposite House and Evan Orensten


Zai and Loro Piana

The Swiss ski makers join Italian garment maker for a technically driven set of understated wool outerwear

On a recent trip to Gstaad with Bentley (more on that next week), I had the pleasure of meeting the team from Zai, the high end, handmade Swiss ski manufacturer. Patrick, Daniela and Thomas (pictured here) all happened to be wearing incredible ski suits. As it turns out, Zai has recently branched into outerwear with the Cassacca, an aesthetically subdued, technically advanced outfit for the slopes. In teaming up with exclusive Italian garment and fabric manufacturer Loro Piana, Zai is able to select from the world’s finest wools and cashmeres for the Cassacca. This complimentary alliance is founded in Zai’s commitment to innovation and design and Loro Piana’s uncompromising dedication to material standards and craftsmanship.

For the main upper Zai uses a combination of 94% wool, 5% cashmere and 1% elastane to give the wearer proper freedom of motion while skiing. The fabric blend is treated by Loro Piana’s Storm System, laminating a pliable membrane and sub-layer of microfiber for additional insulation. Once completed the fabric is treated with Rain System, a unique waterproofing process effective at both keeping moisture out and allowing the material to dry surprisingly fast.

As a garment first and foremost it’s engineered to enhance one’s skiing experience, however the Cassacca caters quite well to the Swiss tradition of après activities. The understated aesthetic is sleek, while avoiding being too sporty—a mark that’s not easily hit in the outerwear world. This “essential” design is limited to just four earth-tone colorways to keep in line with Zai’s traditions in wooden ski making.

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Zai’s limited production skis expertly blend natural and man made materials for a superior ski. While the weekend warrior can appreciate the beautiful crafstmanship, these skis will be most appreciated by those working towards a triple digit day season. Standouts from the winter ’12 ski collection include the classic Testa with a walnut vaneer and the revolutionary Nezza, made almost entirely of an innovative compound called Zaira.The two hand built skis represent Zai’s superlative use of material on opposite sides of the design spectrum.

As with all superior things in life, quality comes at a price. Zai’s Cassacca sells online for $4225 while their handmade skis are officially sold through retailers in over 19 countries. Use Zai’s national directory for a list of dealers in your region.


St. Regis Bal Harbour Resort

Yabu Pushelberg’s latest hotel project resets the notion of modern luxury

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Set to open 19 January 2012, the St. Regis Bal Habour Resort brings the supremely luxurious service and accommodations the brand is known for to the worldwide destination of South Florida. Designed by Seiger Suarez Architectual Partnership with interiors by renowned studio Yabu Pushelberg, the property sets a new standard for the St. Regis brand. Previewing the property last month I found a brilliant combination of materials and patterns; the aesthetic continuity is maintained from restaurants and reception to guest rooms and spa, yet the spaces are also clearly differentiated. My test for evaluating the effectiveness of a hotel brand’s design language is to imagine waking up in any of the spaces—a guest room, a chair by the pool, the spa or even a restaurant booth or the lobby floor—if there’s no doubt where you are, the design is well executed. In this case, I’d wake up feeling right at home and never wanting to leave.

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Boasting 27 stories, housing 243 guest rooms and suites and 307 residences, the resort, built from the ground up on the site of the old Sheraton Bal Harbour, features extravagant detailing throughout. Just a few steps into the main hall Yabu Pushelberg’s consuming style transports you to a world of Deco-inspired modern luxury. Highlighting the extravagance are floors of Chinese God’s Flower marble sourced from a private quarry opened exclusively for the project, mirror-laden walls and chandeliers made of hand-hung crystals.

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To further set the St. Regis Bal Harbour Resort apart from the other destination resorts in the Miami area, the hotel is defined by its extensive collection of contemporary art from both local and internationally known artists—including works by Japanese artists Hirotoshi Sawada, Kohel Nawa, Miami-based graffiti artist Santiago Rubino and French photographer Jean Francois Rauzier.

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To pay homage to legendary architect Morris Lapidus—creator of the iconic neo-baroque modern hotel style synonymous with Miami—guestrooms echo a contemporary Art Deco aesthetic. With warm yellow and whites and mirrored surfaces, the interior design nod can be seen in the subtle details throughout the hotel.

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For more information on availability head to St. Regis Bal Harbour Resort online.