MB&F Legacy Machine No. 1

Maximilian Büsser’s advanced-tech wristwatch inspired by the intricate craftsmanship of early-19th-century pocket watches

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Maximilian Büsser always keeps the watch world and his fans guessing about his next creation and its inspiration. (Previous models took whimsical cues from his childhood robot toys, jet fighters and Star Wars.) Speculation on his next numbered creation, assumed to be the fifth in his series of Horological Machines, reached iPhone levels in the watch world. But what was actually going on in Büsser’s mind was much more of a throwback than his usual radical watch reinventions.

An appreciation for the craftsmanship of 19th-century “statement” pocket watches led him to wonder what he would have created were he born 100 years ago, near the peak of watchmaking’s era of technical innovation. This question was the root of his desire to add a second product line, and yesterday he announced the first in that line, the Legacy Machine No. 1.

Büsser acts as visionary and creative director, enlisting the help of some of horology’s most innovative and respected craftspeople. It’s the head-scratching kind of scene you’d love to watch taking place as Büsser describes his vision and the need for as-yet unimagined movements and mechanics. His all-star crew for the Legacy Machine No. 1 includes Jean-François Mojon and his team at Chronode, who designed the movement from scratch. Kari Voutilainen, a highly regarded watchmaker and artisan, created the watch’s aesthetics and the many handcrafted finishes. The movement of the Legacy Machine No. 1 includes both of their names—a rare occurrence.

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Most probably aren’t aware that nearly all of the complications that exist, and their engineering, were designed a long time ago. (A complication is anything other than the time—the date, chronograph, time zones, alarms, moon phases, etc.) Unique to the Legacy Machine No. 1 are a few twists. The most obvious is the three-dimensional movement, which brings the balance wheel, often hidden in the middle of the movement, to the top, literally; it hangs suspended from a bridge over the dials themselves. It’s like putting a car’s engine in the driver’s seat.

Like its source of inspiration, the 14-millimeter balance wheel resembles those of larger pocket watches—which have a larger wheel that runs more slowly than those in wristwatches. Another first are the two totally independent time zones. Other time zone complications allow you to change only the hour (and a few the half hour), but no others allow you to have two completely different times set and controlled by a single regulator. While this may be more of a technical than practical feat, it’s noteworthy nonetheless. Lastly, the power reserve complication is vertical—a world first and something that normally is represented by a hand or a wheel instead looks like a ski jump.

The LM1’s advanced technology, unconventional aesthetic and masterful engineering make this a must-have for serious collectors, and a wish list item for those of us without the $92,000 to acquire one. Visit MB&F for purchasing information and details.

Also on CH: The MB&F Horological Machine No. 2 and the MB&F Horological Machine No. 3


Beldi

A new online shop celebrating the tradition of Moroccan craftsmanship

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Famous for colorful souks where artisans peddle handmade goods, Morocco hasn’t been spared the effects of Westernization. To help keep the craftsmanship heritage alive, Aimee Bianca and her Moroccan husband Chafiq Ennaoui came up with Beldi, a country-specific online shop highlighting select housewares and accessories. Explaining they noticed “more and more cheap plastic stuff from China in peoples’ homes” when visiting Morocco, the pair not only expose the country’s finely crafted objects to the world, they also give online shoppers a fresh destination for items that are often difficult to source.

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Spanning classic Moroccan rugs to bathwares and leather accessories, Bianca says because Ennaoui grew up in the medina of Marrakech, “almost everything we have is from people Chafiq knows personally, some of the artisans he originally knew through his grandfather or since he was a child.” Future inventory will include items from different areas around the country, tapping each region’s distinct artistry.

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Similar to stores such as Kiosk, RS Too and even Opening Ceremony, part of Beldi’s appeal comes from finding artisans who would not otherwise be able to sell beyond their geographical border, bringing their skills into the limelight. But because of the way Moroccans conduct business—”everything’s done by bargaining, and can be a long process of meeting multiple times, drinking tea and finally coming to an agreement”—Bianca and Ennaoui also serve as gateway to a buying process the average tourist wouldn’t always experience.

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With aspirations to one day be as all-encompassing as Lisbon’s famed A Vida Portuguesa boutique, Beldi is already starting off as a beautiful celebration of a culture with a long history of handmade goods and artisinal craftsmanship. Keep an eye out for more to come from the many regions around Morocco.


Oregon Manifest Bicycle Design Challenge

Thirty-four teams of top designers and custom bike builders compete to create the ultimate urban bike

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The push to leave the car at home in favor of commuting by bicycle now weighs on urban communities more than ever, and with a shortage of urban-minded bicycle design on the market the choice isn’t an easy one to make. To help find a solution, the Oregon Manifest Constructor’s Design Challenge has brought together some of the most talented designers and custom bike builders in the country tasked with creating the ideal modern utility bike. The concept and design process started in February 2011 and has just recently come to a conclusion on 24 September.

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Outside of the actual competition were three Creative Collaborations by globally renowned design firms working with some top American craftsman. A highlight of the collaborations was California-based Fuseproject and Sycip. The Yves Behar lead firm designed the three wheeled Local while Sycip’s custom build team brought it to life. Designed to be “the perfect neighborhood bike,” it addresses the needs of daily life from visiting friends, grocery shopping, to taking the kids to the park and even going surfing.

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The unique design/build competition included 34 professional “Constructors” from ten states. Earning himself a first place prize and $3,000 in winnings was Tony Pereira of Pereira Cycles. The Portland native designed his car replacement with an electric assist motor and a sound system, hoping to ease the transition from car to bicycle. Fellow Portlanders Tsunehiro Cycles and Silas Beebe/ID+ and Cielo by Chris King came in second and third place for their tough looking utility cruisers.

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Taking top place for the student teams was University of Oregon. The large design team included students from multiple terms that saw the project from initial concept design through to the finished product. Included in the beginning ideation and research was the now graduated Andrew Lindley who described the campus bike as a blend of “utility and portability to enhance the urban cycling experience.” The compact geometry vies to make commuting safer and parking easier with a retractable kickstand and rear rack. Such innovative touches compelled legendary Nike design guru Tinker Hatfield to say the bike was a “fresh, creative approach… the future.”

The winning bicycles and Creative Collaborations will be on show in Portland’s Museum of Contemporary Craft from 17 September through 29 October.


Pinch Food Design

Eclectic flavors match stunning presentations from a NY-based design/chef duo

Taking catering in a new direction is Pinch Food Design, a NYC-based catering company specializing in both presentation and culinary innovation that’s guaranteed to surprise and delight. Founded by industry veterans Tj Girard (head designer) and Bob Spiegel (head chef), the two work together seamlessly to make Pinch’s creations both pleasing to the pallet and the eye. A short while ago some of the CH team was invited to their Chelsea HQ to see and taste what the creative team has been working on lately. The following are four of our favorite appetizers and an in-depth look at one of Chef Bob’s finest works of culinary art.

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As a perfect example of Pinch’s focus on design, the serving dish has been cleverly created to use cabinet knobs to present the basil crusted filet mignon. Topped with shallot marmalade and tiny popover pastry, each bite sized piece is an absolute delight.

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What may be the most interesting appetizer that we sampled, this falafel adaptation was fun and flavorful. The pressed pita chips act as the ultimate vessel for the red olive, hummus, cucumber pickle and of course falafel meat. Pleasantly surprised with its canny taste, the moist little towers won the team over instantly.

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Drizzled in mustard oil and port, the chanterelle broccoli rabe sausage is literally balanced with a delicate piece of pequillo toast. Secured on both ends by Pinch’s custom toothpick design, the two sides to the appetizer play well off each other, allowing the holder to follow the savory sausage with a complimentary crunch.

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For dessert Pinch keeps its patrons on their feet with their suspension pastry galettes. The copper structure holds light and flaky pastries by free swinging hooks, allowing each piece to be picked by hand. Adding to the seasonal selection of peach, fig, berry, pear and strawberry rhubarb pastries are copper bowls of cinnamon, chocolate and regular whipped cream for dipping. These were hands down our favorite and the most creative way to serve dessert that we’ve come across yet.

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After a great deal of negotiations and bargaining we persuaded Chef Bob to give up the secret recipe for his amazing mini spaghetti and meatball appetizer. These were unlike any appetizers we’ve ever seen, and obviously worth a closer look. More on the recipe and his essential preparation techniques as told by the inventor himself after the jump.

Spaghetti Roll

3 Cloves Garlic, sliced thin

2 Tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil

2 cups canned Plum Tomatoes, pureed with juices

1 cup tomato paste

Salt

Pepper

1/2 pound Angel hair pasta

Parmigiano-Reggiano, whole, not grated

Meatballs, rolled the size of a dime, recipe follows

Lightly brown garlic in oil, add the tomato puree, cook for 20 minutes until emulsified. Take out 2 tablespoons of the sauce and set aside for finishing later. Add the tomato paste and cook on a low flame. The key here is to cook this for a lot longer than you think, as the goal is to evaporate all the liquid, but not compromise the flavor. This is what makes the ‘glue’, the key to the whole dish. Meanwhile, cook the angel hair in salted water until al dente, strain—do not rinse off the starch—and add the sauce. Season with salt and pepper.

With tongs or rubber gloves, pull out some of the dressed angel hair pasta. Place it on some plastic wrap and roll tubes about 1 inch thick. Refrigerate these for an hour or two until the pasta is set. The angel hair will continue to absorb the sauce and not be as al dente, this creates the illusion in your mouth as when you cut the pasta it feels more al dente than it is.

To serve, cut the pasta rolls 3/4 inch thick, lay them next to each other and microwave for 15 seconds. On a separate cutting board, micro plane the parmigiano, stack back up the angel hair roll and liberally roll the round sides in the parmigiano.

Meatballs

1 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, smashed

1 tablespoon flat parsley leaves, roughly chopped

1/2 cup, toasted breadcrumbs

1/2 pound ground beef

1/2 pound ground pork

1 large egg

1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

salt

pepper

Combine the beef and pork in a large bowl. Then add all the rest of the ingredients and mix well until the olive oil is completely absorbed. It may seem like a lot of olive oil, but this is what give the hors d’oeuvres its moistness. Refrigerate and roll into dime sized balls.

Sear the little meatballs in olive oil and finish with the reserved tomato sauce, season with salt and pepper. Spoon the meatball and some sauce on top of the pasta roll, micro plane some more cheese on top. Serve while still warm.


Mitz Takahashi

A Japanese designer crafting mid-century style furniture from recycled and salvaged wood
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Montreal-based woodworker Mitz Takahashi upcycles wooden offcuts into unique, modern designs. Working by hand with mostly reclaimed lumber like mahogany, walnut, oak and other found materials, Osaka-born Takahashi spends his days tooling around creating works based on his favorite elements of mid-century design.

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Working mainly on a commission basis, Takahashi crafts everything from bookshelves to guitar amps, and attempts to minimize even more waste by packing flat his designs when possible. His keen eye for harmoniously blending various types of wood keeps his furniture feeling cohesively pieced together, and the smooth finishes breathe new life into each design.

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Takahashi’s sustainable style isn’t always serious. He recently created a small product line of humorous gifts like his “medieval assholes” coaster set, which showcases his ability to poke fun as well as his fine crafting skills.

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For more information on Takahashi and his inspired designs, check out his site or contact him directly for commissions or sales inquiries.


Work Boots

Ten finely-crafted boots to keep you kicking through rain and snow

When searching for rugged footwear, we’ve always turned to tried and true brands that have passed the test of time to see us through fall and beyond. Turning to companies that provide loggers, soldiers, hikers and other hard-workers with dependable boots, we took a close look at the technical cred that makes these true heritage brands. With the addition of a few labels that are newer to the game too, here’s a total of ten picks all sharing the common thread of proven craftsmanship—whether for surviving the mines of Minnesota or the rainy Vancouver streets.

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Rider and Need Supply Co.’s Ottawa Hiker

American heritage craftsmanship and rich Italian leather comes together in the Ottawa Hiker for a tough mountaineering aesthetic with a Vibram sole. Rider Boot Company makes each pair to order exclusively for fellow Virginians Need Supply Co. Get your order in by 15 September 2011 to cop these hand-stitched beauties for $645.

Danner and Tanner Goods’ Mountain Light Lownsdale

As the company that outfitted a generation of loggers who built the Pacific Northwest, few know weatherproof workwear like Danner. The recent collaboration with fellow Oregonians Tanner Goods resulted in the new Lownsdale. This limited-edition, made from Chromexcel (a special type of Horween leather) in Portland, Oregon, comes complete with a Gore-Tex liner for superior waterproofing. Grab a pair while you still can for $375 directly from Tanner.

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Chippewa Apache

Founded in 1901 to outfit loggers in Wisconsin and adapted for WWII paratroopers, Chippewa Boots are as rough and tumble as they come. The Apache steel-toe is built for comfort and protection. Made in America, the Apache sells at various outfitters including Amazon for around $135.

Red Wing Iron Ranger

The Iron Ranger, designed to protect the feet of iron miners in northern Minnesota, is guaranteed to get you through the toughest conditions. Triple-stitched with double-layered premium leather on the toe and heel, the Iron Ranger sells for $280 from authorized retailers worldwide.

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Quoddy Grizzly Boot Vibram

Made using the same techniques as with their traditional moccasins, the Grizzly is a six-eyelet boot lined with glove-grade leather and sealed with a deerskin bellows tongue to keep the heat in and the cold out. American-made and supported by a slender Vibram sole custom-designed for Quoddy, the Grizzly boot is available in multiple colors from their webshop for $425.

Yuketen Maine Guide Quilt

Made with the highest quality American leather, a patchworked plaid-and-herringbone wool panel makes
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Maine Guide Quilt the most fashion-forward of the bunch. They’re also hand stitched by a small group of craftsman that’ve been working together for over 25 years, if the finest American-made, boating-inspired boot is what you’re after. Head to Nitty Gritty where they hold the hefty price tag of €610.

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Opening Ceremony and Timberland 7-Eye Moccasin

The 7-Eye Moccasin Boot keeps it simple with a burnished leather upper that will get you through inclement weather without weighing you down. The boots come in green as well as more traditional tan color, and sell online and at Opening Ceremony stores for $195.

Palladium Baggy Leather Gusset

With a sole crafted from a single, solid piece of rubber, Palladium’s Baggy Leather Gusset boots are another lightweight option with a streamlined design makes them a great alternative to clunky rain boots. Waterproof nubuck leather, sealed seams and waterproof stitching thread enhance its ability to fight the elements. Pick them up for $120 from Palladium.

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Dr. Martens Drury

The most recent addition to the company born from an air-cushioned sole designed to nurse a ski injury, the Drury’s slimmer, slightly atypical look is more styled for the streets. Available in the Dr.’s iconic oxblood with an updated sole silhouette, they’re still heavy-duty and built for a beating. Order them from Dr. Martens directly for $120.

Vasque Sundowner GTX

With a Gore-Tex-lined body, the Sundowner GTX offers the best in waterproofing and durability. The old-school model dates back to Vasque’s founding in the early 1970s, designed to offer the best performance in the wild. Check Vasque’s store locater to get yourself a pair for $180.

Contributions by Karen Day, Graham Hiemstra, Ami Kealoha and Greg Stefano


Karmi Tea Canister

Stunning simplicity in a container highlighting the beauty of vertically-cut wood

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Deceptively simple looking, a single Karmi tea canister can take artisans over a year to complete. Manufacturer Syosen, based in Yamanaka (a region known as much for its traditional lacquerware, as for its natural thermal baths), crafts their products following a half-century-old lathing technique. Carving a perfectly-rounded cup or bowl involves precisely thinning the wood, followed by several rounds of lacquering (clear in this case) and extended drying times to ensure a bone-dry core. The technique leaves the natural beauty of the vertically-cut wood grain exposed, creating a muddled elongated effect.

The extensive Yamanaka process came to rise during the Edo period along with the art of the tea ceremony thanks to the area’s bohemian inhabitants (including the father of haiku Basho Matsuo), drawn there by the hot springs. The Syosen canister even takes its name from the Basho principle of haiku that mandates “only local.”

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All this heritage makes for an heirloom-quality vessel representing some of the best principles of Japanese product design. Carved with perfectly-spaced, finely-engraved rings, the thermos-like container will stand up to everyday use while preserving the contents within. The result of the intensive processes and highly-engineered lid, interior air quality keeps loose tea and spices (or anything needing a fresh and dry space) at the ready.

The full range of Karmi tea canisters shown above can be seen at the Syosen website. Family-run “eco boutique” Beklina sells the light wood edition for $220.


Jean-Baptiste Fastrez

How a young French designer’s radical approach yields soulful results

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Toying with high and low, mixing handmade craftsmanship with mechanized production, contrasting natural materials against plastics—the work of emerging industrial designer Jean-Baptiste Fastrez is a study in opposites, shedding new light onto everyday objects by highlighting dissonance. But unlike many exploring the same concepts only to deconstruct design, this rabble-rouser sets up the tension as a means to give “soul” to an object. His latest project takes on the hair dryer, incorporating the “great craft tradition” of handle-making to reinvent the common appliance as a modern tomahawk. “My aim,” the young Frenchman explains, “is to give to this type of product some more interest, sense and sculptural presence,” an approach that lends the object status befitting today’s well-coiffed warriors.

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This avant-garde approach, honed as an assistant to the experimentally-minded design team of the Bouroullec brothers for the past three years, is a through line in Fastrez’s independent work as he applies radical ideas to mainstream design. Like the tomahawk hair dryer, his electric kettle series attempts to make “serial production and handmade production coexist within one same object.” By creating a standardized, technical base that meets safety restrictions, the kettle itself can be customized through a rapid prototyping machine or by enlisting the help of independent craftsmen. This industrial-meets-independent design system allows users to play with how they will use an object, again giving it the kind of highly sought after personal value that appeals to the consumer looking for a self-aware way to express their individuality through design.

“I would like for the consumer to choose his electrical appliance as he could fall in love with a piece in a secondhand market,” Fastrez emphasizes. At play along with this notion of individualism is a sustainability element—if the object breaks, the consumer isn’t forced to buy an entirely new appliance.

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Questioning the efficiency of mass production, Fastrez’ approach largely works to upend the way standardization processes lead to “soulless objects” and thereby facilitate our throwaway society. In addition to creating adaptable design, introducing a new purpose can also increase the emotional value of an item. The Fog table, created in collaboration with designer Marc Sarrazin, repurposes metallic mesh (usually used to make soundproof electronic drums) into a tabletop, which only functions when the table legs have been extended to stretch the fabric tight enough to support objects.

Keep an eye out for Fastrez’ upcoming projects, which includes designs with Sèvres ceramics and Circa glass, as well as a solo exhibition at the Design Parade at the Villa Noailles, Hyères. The industrious designer says of his forthcoming plans, “a year of very exiting work.”


3×1

Jeans made to order from the most coveted denim in the world

Founder of both Earnest Sewn and Paper Denim & Cloth, Scott Morrison’s commitment to the raw essence of denim extends down to the brand names of each new project. His latest, 3×1 Made Here, borrows a name from the technique that gives denim its diagonal weave. Shoppers at his new 4,000-square-foot Soho space can customize a pair of ready-to-wear limited edition jeans, order a pair in their denim of choice or make an appointment to work with Morrison from scratch.

As a pioneer of the premium denim phenomenon, it makes sense that Morrison’s next step would be to elevate denim fashion to a level typically reserved for high end men’s suit tailoring. But don’t worry, the project is setup for laymen and elitist denim-heads alike. Morrison says of the shop, “I think some people are drawn to the 65+ selvedge denims they can select from, others are just looking for a great fitting pair of jeans, while others are coming down because they’ve heard about this new store/factory/gallery space in SoHo that makes jeans while you watch.”

The idea began back in September 2010 when Morrison started sewing the first patterns in his apartment. The line has continued to evolve and now includes a ready-for-purchase run of limited-edition styles for men and women, with the in-house production curbed at between eight-24 pieces per model. For these, the customer can still tweak the hemline and buttons, but to take it a step further, a second option is available. Patrons can choose an existing cut and then apply one of the 100+ fabrics on hand, coming from Japanese, American and Italian mills, delivering a tailored pair of jeans without going fully custom. Morrison reflects on his raw denim fascination we discovered during a previous interview, saying, “Thankfully we offer both [washed and untreated], but 3×1 is unique in that it’s a raw denim fanatic’s dream shop. There is simply no better place in the world to find the best selvedge denim than in our shop in SoHo.”

I was invited to check out the studio and worked with Morrison for over an hour to achieve the perfect fit. Deciding to build a pair from the beginning, I chose a gorgeous red cast, 15.5 ounce denim from Collect (the coveted Japanese mill) as my base, adding a white button, silver rivets and two different hues of orange stitching. For the back pockets I went large and low with tight parallel run-off stitching and a fold-over top that gives a hit of selvedge. Two days later I was back in the shop, where the mostly-finished pair was perfectly arranged to my specifications (web visitors, check out the gallery to see the process and finished product). I was so enamored with the experience and the output that I ordered another pair on the spot, leveraging the fact that my specs are now on permanent file. This second, summery pair is made from a lighter weight, linen-cotton blend from another Japanese mill, Kaihara, and feature a rainbow-colored selvedge on a blue-green cast denim.

Curious about Morrison’s own take on the ubiquitous material, we followed up our visit with a few questions about living the denim life. Read more about 3×1 and get some advice from the guru below:

How many pairs of jeans do you have?

I’ve probably got a dozen or two pair at home here in the city, but my denim collection (if you will) is at my house upstate. There are probably 300-400 pair—much of which are from my own labels—but far too many for anyone who’s not in the denim industry to rightfully own.

Do you remember when your love affair with denim began?

My first pair of jeans were Levi’s, but my love affair with denim started with my first pair of Replay jeans—which happened to be a limited edition pair made from Japanese denim (which were pretty rare at the time in the early-to-mid ’90s).

What’s your recommended denim care?

I rarely wash my jeans, but when I am I typically go one of two routes. If it just needs a little fresh air, then I spray with a little Febreze and hang outside. But if it needs a heavier clean, then I’ll hand wash with Woolite Extra Dark (make sure it’s inside out) and then hang dry.

How will the concept grow and evolve over time?

My hope is that the brand will grow slowly and steadily, as we’ve intended, and over the coming seasons we will slowly offer a few limited edition products to a select group of retailers around the world, and eventually add a second and third store for custom made and bespoke customers.

3×1
15 Mercer Street
New York, NY 10013
+1.212.391.6969


Sanomagic Wooden Bicycles

Ninth-generation Japanese shipwright handcrafts lightweight mahogany bicycles

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A ninth-generation shipwright, Sueshiro Sano has been making exquisite wooden products since he was in elementary school. But in 2008, drawing inspiration and technique from a lifetime of shipbuilding, the woodworker produced his first bike constructed entirely of mahogany, including frame, fork, seat, seat post, handlebars/stem combination and even rims.

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Using mahogany lends flex and responsiveness in a way no metal frame can, which in turn gives riders an elevated sense of control and increases pacing possibilities. A number of Sano’s prototypes have been raced professionally, excelling in both ideal and inclement weather. In the three years since starting the project, Sano has handcrafted 11 of these fully wooden bicycles, making improvements that shave the average weight of his full builds down from 11 kilograms to around eight.

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Through this evolution, the original mahogany seat was eventually upgraded to include a slimmer profile and mahogany mounting rails. By replacing the original metal rails and joints with stronger and lighter mahogany, Sano reduced the total weight of the saddle and mounting rails from 230 grams to 160 grams.

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This year Sano began experimenting with more influential design improvements, most notably the implementation of a fully-integrated seat post. The development combines the seat post and seat tube into one continuous piece running from the bottom bracket to the seat, eliminating seat height adjustability—but offering an unmatched 100% tailored fit. The advancement also makes the bike lightweight, aerodynamic and responsive. Superbly conceived and executed craftsmanship like this extends to handlebar size and seat proportions as well, further proof of Sano’s superlative ability and skill.

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Sano also makes unbelievably gorgeous boats and furniture, putting attention to detail and passion equally into each project. To keep tabs on the constant evolution of Sano’s organic creations and his twelfth bicycle (now in the works) check out Sanomagic. If you dig what Sano is doing check out Renovo‘s take on the wooden bicycle.