Shang Xia

European luxury and traditional Chinese craftsmanship in a Shanghai boutique

by Alessandro De Toni

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In a bustling metropolis like Shanghai, Shang Xia‘s boutique strikes a balance between “human and nature”, a millenary value of Chinese culture that often appears to be lost in the country’s economic rush. Wood and sandstone are combined together with high-tech fiber to create a corner of peace, a unique and harmonious environment.

The Shang Xia brand was founded in 2008 by Chinese designer Jian Qiong Er and Hermès, one of the most well-known western luxury brands in China. Together, they collaborate on a line of furniture, decorative objects, jewelry and high-fashion garments entirely produced in China and characterized by excellent craftsmanship and understated simplicity.

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As the name Shang Xia implies—it translates to “up and down” in English—style is a state of harmony achieved by a dynamic flow of energy from the past, present and future. It’s a dialogue between tradition and contemporary taste, which aims to create a 21st-century lifestyle founded on the finest of Chinese design traditions.

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Among Shang Xia’s most beautiful crafts are the jewelry collections “Garden” and “Shan Shui”. In the former, the Taihu rock—an ancient symbol of wisdom and immortality—is combined with red sandalwood, jade, agate, gold and silver through a carving process that can take up to 300 hours.

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For “Shan Shui”, agate and jade are carved and polished in the shape of an ancient Chinese coin. The process requires abut 480 hours of craftsmanship by a single artisan who cuts and polishes the agate on a spinning wheel. It is an almost spiritual exercise that recalls samsara, the Sanskrit word for the ever-turning wheel of life.

Shang Xia

1F, South Tower, Hong Kong Plaza

283 Huaihai Middle Rd, Shanghai


The New Classics

How a breed of obsessive mechanics and craftsmen are turning out vintage-inspired modern automobiles

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The resurgence of handcrafted objects has spread from fashion to electronics to spirits—you can listen to vinyl LPs while wearing reissued Levi’s 1947 501s and sipping small-batch local bourbon in almost any city in America—but bespoke craft has largely eluded the auto industry. Sure, you can’t throw a rock in a mall parking lot without hitting a retro-inspired muscle car, and some manufacturers have made bolt-on aftermarket “customization” as easy as assembling an IKEA bookshelf, but theoretically, something can only be so unique when it’s being mass-produced for global distribution. On the other hand, vintage models give rise to safety concerns and lack the power of modern technology.

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Thankfully, there is an emerging middle ground between the unique excitement of a vintage machine and the reliability of a modern one. More commonly seen in motorcycles that automobiles, a few small companies have emerged in the last few years to fill the gap. These 21st-century coachbuilders offer a product that is custom-built for each owner, a one-of-a-kind piece of drivable art for those who appreciate obsessive craftsmanship.

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You’ve probably heard of the DeLorean Motor Company, maker of the legendary DMC-12. The original DMC folded in 1982, but a new DeLorean Motor Company was started in Texas in 1995 to support the 6,000 or so owners of the original cars. The new DeLorean has reached beyond just a parts clearinghouse—for around $60,000 they will build you a brand new deadstock DMC-12. You can keep it stock of course, but DeLorean will happily install satellite radio, iPod interfaces, GPS and Bluetooth for an additional cost. They also offer upgrades to the performance of the engine and suspension, which we’d recommend—the original DMC-12 managed a 0-60 time of about 10.5 seconds, just a bit slower than the 1991 Toyota Corolla. For those of you eager to drive the true car of the future, starting in 2013, customers will be able to order an all-electric version of the DMC-12. A perfect match for your Nike Mags.

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If your tastes are more performance-based, and you already own a Porsche 911 in need of some modification, Singer Vehicle Design (SVD) has a proposition for you. Using Cosworth engines and new composite bodies from Aria, Singer re-imagines a customer’s existing 911 into a machine that looks iconic and actually outperforms its modern brethren. SVD collaborates directly with artisans, craftsmen and small manufacturers in Southern California to custom-build each car to the owner’s specifications and intended use.

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The classic air-cooled engines can run from a sprightly 300hp touring model all the way up to a 4.0L, 400HP track monster. The interiors are refinished in new leather upholstery and beautifully minimal dashes that match the mechanical excellence under the hood. Bespoke quality comes at a cost, of course—SVD’s recreations will run from $190,000 to more than $300,000, and you still need to supply the original 964-body 911. And while Porsche purists might raise an eyebrow at a modern 911 that looks like it was built in 1971, you’ll be looking at them in your (hand-crafted) rear-view mirror.

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By far the most intense of this new breed of bespoke auto craftsmen, ICON began as a Toyota LandCruiser restoration company that quickly shifted into an obsession with building more perfect versions of classic 4 x 4s like the Jeep CJ and Toyota FJ. In fact, ICON’s FJ44 is high on Cool Hunting’s list of vehicles we’d want during the Apocalypse.

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The most exciting truck to come from ICON is their newest, the ICON Bronco, a faithful, if burly, reinterpretation of the cult-favorite 1966-77 Ford Broncos. ICON owner Jonathan Ward worked directly with Ford’s rockstar designer Camilo Pardo and Nike and Frog Design to re-imagine one of Ford’s most classic sport utility vehicles.

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Utilizing an all-new reproduction Bronco bodyshell from Ford supplier Dynacorn, the ICON Bronco has the handsome good looks of the original, without being cloyingly retro. Under the hood, the Bronco is powered by Ford’s new 5.0L V8 that is currently in the 2012 Mustang GT, doubling the original’s 205HP. Other modern upgrades include a Parrot in-dash stereo running Android, military-grade LED lighting throughout, and a heavy-duty winch hidden in the front bumper. Everywhere you look you find obsessively rebuilt parts, like door lock knobs machined from solid aluminum instead of cheap plastic. About the only complaint we have is the loss of the original gauge design, but we’re nostalgic that way. For an exhaustive look at the making of the ICON Bronco, head over to Car Domain.

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These newly reengineered vintage vehicles from DeLorean, Singer Vehicle Design and ICON are an obsessive, loving homage to the halcyon days of automobile production, and offer today’s independent driver exciting alternatives to the status quo of another all-wheel-drive supercar or mass-produced rockhopper. While none of these options come cheap, the amount of skill and labor that goes into making each one can justify the cost as buying more than just another car. Now that Ford is licensing full-body reproductions of their 1960s and ’70s Mustangs, we can only hope that this trend will continue to thrive.


Blue Highway

Custom denim built by brothers at Northern Sweden’s Unionville shop
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There’s a special level of appreciation for denim in Sweden. Acne, arguably the country’s most directional label, began as a project to make a few pairs of jeans for the founders’ friends. Fast forward to today and, on top of Acne, there are a host of denim brands whose cuts have endeared them to the fickle undercurrent of raw denim lovers including Nudie, Cheap Monday and other smaller brands who specialize in working with raw denim. Perhaps it’s the country’s affinity for utilitarian apparel, its strong subculture scene or maybe simply because Swedes gravitate toward quality above other more aesthetic attributes.

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Almost a year to the day of its opening, we took a trip to Unionville, a specialist denim and workwear emporium on Stockholm’s Södermalm island to speak to Douglas Luhanko, who co-founded the store with his brother, Hampus and fellow denim specialist, Fredrik Johansson. Unionville sits on a quiet street behind its sister store, Sivletto—Stockholm’s Rock a Billy paradise—stocking a carefully selected blend of Japanese brands like The Flat Head and Iron Heart alongside classics including Levis and Wrangler and local labels Denim Demon and Blue Highway.

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Blue Highway marks the work of the Luhanko brothers, whose passion for denim runs much deeper than just designing it. “We started six years ago,” explains Douglas. “My brother and I were still in a small town in Northern Sweden and we’ve always has this shared love of jeans and the history of denim itself. So Blue HIghway actually started out as a blog where we talked about vintage denim, its cultural references and history,” says Luhanko.

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Pointing to one of Unionville’s hand-sourced machines, Douglas tells the story of how he and his brother acquired it after seeing a local advertisement—although it was only a single-seam stitch, it was enough to start with, and Blue Highway began to morph from a blog into what is arguably Sweden’s only truly custom denim brand. “Despite living at the time in Eskilstuna and working from a small basement there was a clear benefit in the small, isolated town in that it’s got a really long, industrial past,” says Douglas. “So we were able to pick up more machines over time, which are the ones hissing in our workroom here at Unionville.”

“I love how raw denim is brought to life by the person wearing it,” he adds. “Even though it may look like a normal pair, the owner knows that behind each line, fade, mark and crinkle is its own personal story.” While the brand has been growing organically for six years, the brothers have been involved in garment-making for much longer. Sharing a strong desire to return to the ideals of an 18th-century tailor, the Luhankos create everything from scratch for each client.

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As Blue Highway began to pick up more clients, the pair began their never-ending search for authentic deadstock rolls of denim. “We’ve been through about 15 different types of denim,” Douglas says. “At the start we just hunted on Ebay but in Sweden that’s really expensive. We’ve gotten better at sourcing as time has passed,” he continues, pulling out their latest find, Cone Mills deadstock. “This one was meant for Levis, and it’s a little wider than the narrow shuttle loom denim we’ve had in the past,” he explains. “It’s about 11 ounces, and not so slubby like you’d get from Japan, but already now, when I feel it, I can see the possibilities.”

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The brothers make everything in a workroom at the rear of the store, in full view of visitors. “Each pair takes around six hours to make,” Douglas points out, going on to explain that Blue Highway will never be about the money. “For us, it’s about the attitude of creation itself and paying a genuine homage to each piece of fabric and exploring the limits of our own creativity and cratsmanship at the same time.” He is quick to stress that their brand will always be completely handmade, so their vision remains imprinted on every aspect of the finished garment.

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Given the duo’s pedigree as denim historians, Blue Highway’s cut is proudly based around a classic 1950s five-pocket cut. Each pair is single-stitched and overlocked on original, period sewing machines, while belt loops and bartacks on the rear pockets are completed by hand. Blue Highway denim sports special brass hardware that’s embossed in the workshop, and hand-cut, stamped leather patches. Perhaps in homage to Levis, Douglas is quick to mention that they don’t do riveted pockets. That said, they have added their own special twist on the coin pocket, which is sized large enough to fit a watch, with a slightly scooped cut to enable faster access to its contents.

The cost for this labor intensive process runs around 3,000 SEK (approximately $440), available at Unionville.


G. Wiseman Sodbuster

Exclusive hand-crafted blade from Oklahoman steel master
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There is a deep-rooted bond between human beings and blades, born from our mysterious history roaming the cave systems of France and the jungles in southeast Asia. The knife is one of our simplest tools, but is still extremely important. When one feels a properly made blade with perfectly balanced steel at their fingertips, the recognition is instantaneous. We recently got to check out the Sodbuster pocket knife, hand-crafted by Gene Wiseman exclusively for
Kaufmann Mercantile. Not only does this knife exude quality, its functional design is intended to wear through the ages.

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Wiseman, who spent a large part of his life working steel for horseshoes, took his first foray into knife-making several years ago. His years of experience on small-batch production runs paid off, sharpening his extreme attention to detail. Wiseman makes his blades one by one in a trailer-sized space in the woods of Oklahoma, along the Arkansas border. Each knife takes two days to finish and everything is crafted by hand, down to the pins holding the knife together.

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The Sodbuster pocket knife will get you through a tough situation, but with a blade sporting an unprecedented level of elegance. The hard canvas micarta handle stands up to anything while offering a perfect balance of traction and texture, and, along with a 2 3/4 inch D-2 tool-grade steel blade, makes for a knife that feels wonderful in your hand and isn’t too bulky in the pocket. The knife is fixed together with a brass washer and a steel pivot pin, whose contrasting metals enhance the rugged look and overall appeal.

The G.Wiseman Sodbuster is available exclusively from
Kaufmann Mercantile for $330.


Cool Hunting Video Presents: Bentley

Our latest video takes a look at the craftsmanship behind one of the world’s leading luxury auto makers

During a recent trip to England we were invited to tour Bentley’s factory in Crewe and had the chance to get a behind-the-scenes look at how these luxury powerhouses are put together from start to finish. The hands-on plant offered a wildly different experience than other car manufacturing processes we have seen and, by relying on a level of manual precision machines can’t always replicate, provided a fascinating example of the merge of technology and craftsmanship in creating truly luxurious custom automobiles.


Le Marche

A delicious day in the life and land of Nudo’s collaborative community
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Since we covered Nudo’s “adopt-an-olive-tree” program a few years back, we’ve been repeatedly impressed by their commitment to bridging the gap between consumers and their food. With a global community of adoptive tree “parents” as well as a localized community of collaborative growers, the Nudo family goes far beyond their fields and presses. It’s a close community as well, with owners traveling to visit their trees and help with the harvest. The farm-to-table connection results in an olive oil that bears the innovative personality of those involved. On a recent visit to Le Marche as the brand’s guest, we met the trees, farmers, and olive millers who define Nudo Italia.

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Beginning our day of immersion we left Casal Dei Fichi—our residence for the visit—early for the olive groves. Driving through Le Marche, it’s easy to become hypnotized by the textures of the trees and vines that decorate the landscape like massive bolts of corduroy. We arrived at Rosalio, the Nudo groves, where we picked and raked olives from the branches, which were collected and gathered on nets that ran down the hillside. When asked whether olives could be eaten straight from the tree, Nudo’s founder Jason Gibb explained that fresh olives are extremely bitter and even peppery (I tried one anyway. He was right.). He then told a story about a tree that grew by a cove, its olives falling into the sea. Washed in the seawater over time, the olives were found and enjoyed by a passerby—the reported discovery of brining. Gibb’s story fits with the Rosalio vibe, which is itself a kind of Italian fairy tale.

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Leaving the groves by mid-morning, we arrived at the Corradini olive press to make lemon olive oil. Our freshly harvested olives were separated from their twigs and leaves, washed and sent into a basin where three granite wheels pulverized the fruit. Lemons were tossed whole into the mash, which let off a citrus scent of the infusion at work. After an extended cold mixing and going through a series of centrifugal presses, the oil was finally extracted and bottled, ready to be consumed after sitting for a month. This modern pressing process minimizes the olive paste’s exposure to air ensuring optimal freshness and the brightest possible flavor.

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Gibb explained that the press charges by weight, so many farmers harvest later in the year when the olives are lighter, having begun to desiccate on the tree. He also notes that older growers prefer the traditional nylon press, which is more of an open-air process that results in an oil that goes rancid more quickly. Tasting oils produced in both the new and old ways I found the difference to be remarkable—olives pressed in the traditional manner had a much more basic, even blurry flavor. Nudo harvests their olives when they are just becoming ripe, paying a higher price to produce a better product.

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Lunch came courtesy of Nudo collaborator Paolo Beretta and his wife Paola. The two run an “agriturismo” in Cossignano called Fiorano, where they grow olives for oil and grapes for wine production. Beretta worked most of his career as a dentist—a detail that’s evident in his impeccably maintained groves, vines and wine production facilities. Paola prepared our lunch alongside her mother, who were the keepers of a transcendental stuffed olive recipe that they were kind enough to share with us (see below).

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Their “Olive Ascolane” was a delightful appetizer alongside the Fiorano wine. The olives were stuffed, then battered and fried in a mix of the family’s extra virgin olive oil and sunflower oil. The fleshy “tenera ascolana” olives are favored in this rustic dish, which is named for the town of Ascoli Piceno. The piping hot morsels were filled with mortadella and parmesan cheese, as well as minced turkey, beef, and pork.

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Our route to dinner in the charming village of Loro Piceno was met with a pleasant interruption at Peppe Cotto, the local butcher. The unrestrained character of Piceno serenaded us with a pigskin trumpet—which complimented his bowtie, also made of pigskin—as he served up vino cotto, or cooked wine, with a wheel of sausage on the rim of the glass.

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Before leaving, he found time to give a live performance of a composition that was written on a sheet of dried skin. His fat sculptures were truly mesmerizing, decorating the display case with familiar characters and animals. Of all his eccentric performances, it was the puppet show enacted with the carcass of a chicken that left us reeling on the way out the door.

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Visiting this community made the experience of tasting Nudo’s product even more special. As a region with a blossoming agriturismo business, it’s a definite destination to add to any foodie’s vacation wish list. In the mean time, to get a taste for yourself, check out Paola’s mother’s recipe for “Olive Ascolane” after the jump.

Photography by Josh Rubin and Masiar Pasquali

Olive ascolane

Ingredients for 4

“Tenera ascolana” olives

Pork—200g/7oz

Turkey breast—200g/7oz

Beef—200g/7oz

Mortadella—100g/3.5oz

Parmesan—80g/2.8oz

Eggs—4

White wine—1 glass

Nutmeg—to taste

Salt—to taste

Pepper—to taste

Bread crumbs—as required

Flour—as required

Extra virgin olive oil—as required

Sunflower oil—as required

Brown the chopped meat in a pan with a little oil, add salt and pepper and drizzle with white wine. Cover as soon as the wine has boiled away and cook for another 10-15 minutes. Place the cooked meat in an oven dish with the finely chopped Mortadella, the grated Parmesan, nutmeg, salt, a whole egg and a yolk. Mince finely with a chopping knife or with the mixer until smooth and thick. Stone the olives by cutting off the flesh in a spiral—start at the top of the olive and try to cut the flesh off in one piece. Take a piece of meat about the size of the original olive in your hand, roll into a ball and spiral the flesh of one olive around it. Then dip the ball first in the flour, then the beaten eggs and finally the bread crumbs. Do this for all the olives. Heat up the extra virgin olive and sunflower oils until boiling and deep fry the balls until golden brown. Serve hot or warm as a nice starter.


Grand Mayan Tequila

The 10-year journey of an ultra-aged tequila, from agave plant to hand-painted bottle
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Far from the bars where rowdy patrons slam down shots of pale liquid with a lick of lime and sprinkle of salt lives ultra-aged tequila, meant to be savored like a glass of cognac. In the case of Grand Mayan Tequila the depth of the extra añejo dark amber spirit reveals notes of nuts and chocolate, and a smooth, lingering finish.

Grand Mayan begins its 10-year journey in the agave fields of Jalisco, Mexico, where the agave tequilana weber is grown for 5-7 years before being harvested. The hearts of the plant are then slow-cooked in stone ovens before they go through a slow natural fermentation process. Extra care is taken in the distillation and filtering process, which takes place at the famous La Cofradia distillery. The liquid ages in American oak casks for at least three years before being bottled in their signature ceramic bottle celebrating the history of Mexico.

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Created by artisans in Mexico City, the lovely, diminutive decanter is hand-painted with blue flowers and orange designs—an appropriately elaborate vessel for the precious liquid within. The company produces only 3,000 litres of the spirit per year, which has become highly coveted by tequila connoisseurs for its flavor, rarity and special presentation. We experienced the enthusiasm firsthand during a recent visit to K&L Wine Merchants, where mere mention of Grand Mayan received quick notes of approval from every staff member within earshot. Naturally, we felt compelled to pour ourselves a shot and were able to savor it slowly, no lime or salt necessary.


Louis XIII "Le Jeroboam" Auction

The only bottle of Remy Martin’s most advanced cognac in the U.S. up for the bidding
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The landscape has changed when it comes to the exclusivity of luxury brands, and with a label like Rémy Martin, it’s easy to become distracted by the hype that rap moguls and film directors shower on the venerable cognac. While the brand caters to an impressive range of clientele, from Charles de Gaulle to Jay-Z, in the end it’s the spirit itself that matters. In anticipation of the auction of the three-liter “Le Jeroboam” bottle valued at $26,000, we sat down with the cellar master herself to discuss what makes Louis XIII so special.

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Pierrette Trichet is the fourth cellar master in the history of the company, and the first woman to hold the position. With a background in biology and biochemistry, the young Trichet began in the Rémy Martin laboratory, over time learning the difficult task of putting words to aromas. Trichet defines the art of cognac-making as a human science, and recognizes that her well-trained nose is capable of much more than even the most advanced scientific equipment. Creating the blends based on her distinct tastes, she does so with the full confidence of the company, which will occasionally give her blind taste-tests to make sure her palate remains on-point. Louis XIII is the masterful upshot of her unique ability. The special blend is comprised of 1,200 individual eaux-de-vie that are first aged anywhere from 40-100 years and then added to a tiercon that will house the mix for another hundred years—which means Trichet will never taste the matured blend she is currently making.

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Up for auction is a crystal decanter numbered 13—a nod to Louis XIII—out of the 100 that were made. The only bottle currently available in the U.S., it’s an enlarged version of the brand’s classic shape, which was made to replicate a metal gourd found by Rémy Martin’s grandson at the site of a 16th-century battlefield. Inside the bottle’s limousin oak coffret is a wine master’s pipette to simulate the tasting experience, four custom crystal glasses by furniture designer Cristophe Pillet, a book illustrating the Louis XIII legacy and an invitation for the buyer and four guests to attend a tasting at the house of Rémy Martin.

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Benefits from the auction go to the Ruby Peck Foundation for Children’s Education. The auction begins on 25 November 2011, and can be accessed via the auction site .


Ylati

National pride shines through in a collection of subtle shoes
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The young duo behind Ylati Footwear perfectly mix traditional Italian craftsmanship with their love for sneakers. Supporting the Made in Italy push for homegrown products in their own subversive way—try reading the label from right to left—Ylati looks to the skilled masters in Italy’s Campania region, who use handmade processes to achieve a casually refined aesthetic.

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Clean design and a precise balance of materials and textures defines the collection’s sharp, understated aesthetic for casual trainers with some polish, and both the fall and upcoming spring collections are based on pale neutral palettes, with details like contrasting soles and an unexpected Oxford eyelet addition to a suede low-top.

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The collection is available through Ylati’s e-shop with prices starting at 165€.


Bottega Veneta Parfum

Checking in with the “nose” behind the Italian label’s first perfume

As anyone who’s sought a signature scent knows, selecting the right one is much harder than it seems. From the balance of notes and allusions to something that stands out from the crowd, perfume bears the burden of channeling the most poetic aspect of personal style. Imagine then the task of coming up with Bottega Veneta’s first scent.

That was the job put to Michel Almairac, the famous perfumer behind Bottega Veneta Parfum. His solution elegantly marries the heritage of the label with the history of perfumery itself by inventing a leather smell based on the tanneries in Grasse, France—the world’s perfume capital since the 18th century that’s also home to many tanneries, due to the abundance of water. The scent evokes this essence of Grasse as well as the luxurious aroma of well-tanned leather, an important distinction Almairac made from poorly-tanned leather that can “smell like a goat.”

This particular leather scent (which now solely belongs to Bottega) is the big innovation, but we also learned a new bit of perfume vocabulary when we had the chance to meet Almairac in Paris recently. Chypre, based on the smell of Cyprus, defines the structure of a scent that pairs citrus with florals and more woodsy base-notes. After consulting with Bottega’s Creative Director Tomas Maier (no outside tests were done), this chypre takes form with Italian bergamot, Indian patchouli, Indian Sambac jasmine and Brazilian pink peppercorns.

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The result of this “weaving of scent,” inspired by the brand’s level of craftsmanship, as Michel puts it, “smells like Bottega Veneta.” It has a remarkable consistency that, for those of us who have been wearing it for a few weeks now, has elicited many compliments. This strength comes from the kind of absolute elegance for which Maier is known.

Comparing the art of making perfume to cooking, Almairac describes how it’s the little details that make the difference when it comes to blending ingredients that compliment each other perfectly, creating a sense of mystery by combining new things. While he explained that sometimes you can’t oversimplify and need to add more, that was not the case with this perfume. The other key factor comes from new methods of extraction and manufacturing scents, as well as artisanal, quality ingredients, including handmade bases—resulting in what is the most expensive perfume Almairac has made in terms of ingredients.

Having such a success on their first outing, Bottega Veneta seems poised to create more scents in the future. It’s easy to imagine a less floral version for men from this base, and Almairac confirmed there’s “room for a family.” For now, we have to be content with this perfume, which is now available at stores in a gorgeous Murano glass bottle. The line sells from Bottega’s newly-revamped site, starting at $65 for a 30-milliliter bottle.

Contributions by Ami Kealoha and Evan Orensten