Boiler Room

London’s secret music venue and their livestream act

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With an invite-only door policy and super secret location, Boiler Room is London’s most exclusive music venue. But elitism isn’t the premise for its clandestine nature—in fact, anyone with an Internet connection can easily join in the fun. Using a simple webcam, the crew behind Boiler Room livestreams each set for the world to see free of charge, and each month more than a million viewers tune in to see performances by artists like James Blake, The xx, Roots Manuva, Neon Indian, Juan Maclean and more.

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We recently chilled out to the smooth sounds of Brooklyn’s How To Dress Well before rocking out to revered musician Matthew Dear, who brought down the house with an intense 40-minute DJ set. Keep an eye out for our interview with Dear, but for now you can get a little more insight into the underground music scene’s most talked about livestream show by checking out our interview with assistant musical programmer and Boiler Room host Nic Tasker.

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How important is it for Boiler Room to remain secret, at least in its location?

That is quite an important aspect of it, purely because it means when you do shows you don’t get a lot of groupies, pretty much everyone in the room is either a friend of ours or one of the artist’s. It helps to create a more relaxed atmosphere for the artist and I think they feel less pressure. They’re also just able to chill out and be themselves more rather than having people in their face with iPhones. It’s about artists performing in a different environment to that of a commercial gig or anywhere else. If the artists are relaxed usually you get the best music.

It seems like there is more interaction among the crowd than at a typical venue, is that intentional?

It’s definitely a social place. All the people that come down, most of them we know and they’re all our friends. So they come down, hang, have a drink and just chill out, basically. From our very set-up, we do it with a webcam, we’re not a high production filming operation but I think that’s kind of the charm of it. The main thing is people come down with the right attitude.

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How much of the show is prescribed?

I guess that depends on the artist. We never say anything. Literally, whatever they want to do—we’re kind of the platform for them to do whatever they want, so if Matthew Dear wants to come and play an hour of noise with no beats, he can do that. That’s fine with us, and I think that’s why artists like coming to play for us. We’re not like a club where you have to make people dance, we don’t give a shit if people dance. It’s nice if they do and it makes it more fun, but some nights you just get people appreciating the music, which is equally fun.

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Is there a particular kind of artist you guys look for and ask to come perform?

No, not particularly, it’s just whatever we’re feeling. Thristian [Boiler Room’s music director] has the main say on musical direction, but it’s a massive team effort. In London there’s six of us, New York there’s two, LA there’s one and Berlin there’s two.

Tonight you had different set-ups for each artist, do you tailor their positioning in the room to their style?

It definitely depends on the act and what kind of music they do. With live bands we found what works nicely is having them opposite each other because it’s like they’re in rehearsal, like they’re just jamming. Which is again trying to give them that chilled out feel that they’re just at home jamming and there happens to be a camera there. For some of our shows we’ve had over 100,000 viewers. When you think of those numbers it’s quite scary, but when you’re in the room and it’s all friends it creates that vibe that people don’t mind. You can imagine if you had all those people in front of you it would be a very different situation.

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Have you ever thought of Boiler Room as an East London version of Soul Train?

It’s never crossed my mind like that, but I can see why you think that. I like to think of us as the new music broadcaster, kind of the new MTV, but obviously we operate in the underground scene mainly. But I like to think that what we do is as revolutionary as what they were doing. We’re always growing into something new.

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What’s up next for Boiler Room?

We’re looking forward to doing more with the visuals and we’re starting to do breakfast shows with some high profile DJs, we’re going to be doing that regularly. Each will have an individual format. The next step is progressing the US shows, we’re alternating weekly between New York and LA, so the next step is to take Boiler Room to America.

Photos by BHP


GANT Rugger Fall/Winter 2012

A conversation with Chris Bastin on this season’s foodie inspiration
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As the Creative Director of GANT, Chris Bastin took the unlikely realms of food and restaurant life and embedded it into the DNA of his upcoming Fall/Winter 2012 collection. Known for crazy dinner parties in Stockholm, Bastin weighs in on what we can expect from his latest range.

Your Fall/Winter 2012 collection is intimately connected to three related pillars: food, eating and the modern restaurant scene in New York. How did this idea come to play? What inspired this foodie collection?

I’ve always been interested in cooking and food. It struck me that there has been a strong connection between what has been happening with the whole Americana-heritage scene and the slow food movement. Both pay close attention to quality and process. It felt natural to let these two influential movements merge together—weird as that may seem.

You’ve compared the process of cooking to the process of making clothes—how so?

Both begin with a sort of mise en place—the basics you need to either create a good dish or a great garment. We’ve always looked at GANT Rugger as a great example of the perfect wardrobe. Start with the classics and bare essentials and then move up the ladder to quirky pieces and not-so-essential gear. It’s kind of like complementing a simple pasta with a very good red wine. The biggest difference is that while a collection takes about six months, a killer meal can be put together in ten minutes. That’s the exact amount of time you need to whip up pasta aglio e olio. Then there’s the whole aspect of quality. If you want to make the best food, you’ll need good ingredients. The same goes for a shirt.

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The collection is comprised of two “characters” so to speak–the restaurateur and the chef. How would you define these two roles as they related to your collection?

GANT Rugger is a heritage and vintage driven line but there is also a big chunk of sprezzatura that we wanted to come through. The chef ended up being the “vintage nerd” and the owner was given more room to show off and be the peacock—a winning combination.

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How did you ensure these two characters were portrayed in your lookbook?

The chef took care of the denim and utility gear while the owner always got the more dressed up looks. You can clearly see these two characters in our fall lookbook.

There’s also a “third character” in some ways–the products that accompany the clothing. Can you tell me a little bit about what these are? Also, why were these products integral to the formation of this collection?

Sometimes I wonder if this whole collection was just an excuse to design a chef’s knife and an apron in selvage denim. I mean, come on, who wouldn’t want to design their own knife? That is like a dream come true. And to work with someone like Michael Lishinsky at Wildfire Cutlery in Portland, Oregon was the icing on the cake. That dude is the best.

I know you’re a total foodie–what are some of your favorite restaurants around the globe?

In Stockholm I have to say Daphne’s, for the crowd and the ambience. In NYC, Omen has great Japanese food. The Standard Grill is amazing for breakfast. Italy is easy; basically go into any place that looks like crap as long as someone who looks like your grandma is behind the stove. She’s probably going to serve up the best pasta you’ve ever had.

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What’s your favorite dish to cook?

Right now it’s pulled pork. Since I bought this monster of a thing from Weber I just want to smoke stuff, low temp. I’ve smoked everything with a heartbeat in the past year.

I hear you throw crazy dinner parties in Stockholm. How do I score an invite?

That’s probably the best rumor I’ve ever heard. But it’s totally untrue though. But hey, bring a nice bottle of red and ring the doorbell.

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What can we expect from the ad campaign which I hear will feature two individuals immersed in the food world?

Definitely amazing pictures, good styling and a slightly chubbier designer. We collaborated with Ben and Phil from The Fat Radish this time around. The guys look great in our clothes, and of course we think the food at their restaurant in New York City’s Lower East side is simply amazing.

There’s been much talk about “unkempt sprezzatura”–what exactly is this?

Has there, really? I’m very happy anyone even noticed. I think the term is quite clever. It’s about getting out of bed, throwing on whatever and still looking like a million bucks. It’s a look based on American sportswear mixed with Italian flair, but without all the fuss.


Linda Nguyen

Our interview with the founder of LOVE + MADE
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Linda Nguyen and her partner, Tammy Le, are the heart and vision behind LOVE + MADE, the fashion-forward lifestyle brand and events and marketing company. Since 2007, LOVE + MADE has been leaving its mark with a signature style of pop aesthetics in designing for such high-profile clients as Vans and WeSC.

Cutting her teeth at Obey, Shepard Fairey’s punk-infused streetwear line, Nguyen quickly distinguished herself by launching the company’s first women’s line. Serving as Lauryn Hill’s fashion assistant to leading the LA chapter of the networking group, Ladies Lotto, Nguyen’s skyrocket success has encompassed a perfect blend of feminine sass and savvy. Working with an all-female team, LOVE + MADE continues to lead the way with an upcoming LOVE + MADE candle collection, Royal Elastics shoe collaboration and also a Stussy x Lovemade collaboration which launches in Stussy stores next week.

What were your interests/influences growing up and what was your background prior to starting LOVE + MADE?

As a teenager, I was fascinated with hip-hop culture. I began producing a monthly event called “L_ephunk” which showcased up-and-coming artists from LA and San Francisco. Living and growing up in Orange County, there was a lack of culture and diversity so being able to help put a spotlight on new talent and offer something fresh to my community felt really rewarding.

Event production provided me with experience in running a small business. It was also through L_ephunk that I discovered my passion for creating and for bringing people together. That same passion eventually translated over to my interest in design. I began hand-making accessories under “StenciL,” a new brand I started.

At 21, I started an internship at Obey assisting the menswear designer. Just six months after landing the internship, I was awarded with a position as the women’s designer through which I helped Obey launch their first women’s line. Since then I have worked in-house and as a freelance designer for brands like L-R-G, Burton, WeSC, Shaun White for TARGET and Vans.

What inspired LOVE + MADE and what is it like working with an all-female team? How did you and Tammy Le meet?

My business partner/best friend Tammy and I met in the 6th grade. We started LOVE + MADE in 2007, driven by the desire to have something of our own. The concept of our brand is in the name. To put it simply, the collective promotes doing and making something from the heart. LOVE + MADE was, and still is, a labor of love and we wanted to convey that in our brand name.

LOVE + MADE is unique in that a big part of our mission is to support, inspire, and empower other brands. We aren’t trying to bash on the boys or push this whole “Girls Rule, Boys Drool” agenda. We’ve simply learned that in the male- dominated lifestyle market, we need more of a strong female perspective.

Please tell us a little about Ladies Lotto and how you got involved.

Ladies Lotto is a lifestyle and networking community founded by Natalie Blacker. It aims to encourage independent women to think about and do business differently by providing them with a space to meet, network, mingle and get inspired. I’ve been involved with Ladies Lotto since attending my first meeting in NYC four years ago.

What sort of brands do you enjoy working with and what sort of demographic do you design for?

We love working with brands like INSIGHT on events, and Stussy for designs. We love lifestyle brands and the whole streetwear culture. We design for the girl who loves fashion, art, music and all things creative. She is strong, independent and driven. She is diverse in her tastes and influences and embraces her femininity.

What are some examples of events that you’ve helped put on and what were some of your stylistic influences?

You’ll always find good music, eclectic company, and fashion-forward attendees at our events. The typical LOVE + MADE-produced event features an array of female talent ranging from DJs and artists to photographers and dancers. If LOVE + MADE is involved you can always expect a line of ladies out the door; we always respect the ratio. We also get hired to promote other companies’ events. Some of our clients have included Puma, Urban Outfitters, Reebok, DimMak and KSwiss. We’ve helped companies promote everything from monthly music events to launch parties.

How would you describe your personal style?

Always a pop of color, whether it’s in my bright lipstick, nails or shoes.

What are some personal highlights.?

One of my biggest career highlights was turning an internship into a design position at OBEY. It changed everything and jump-started my induction into the fashion world. Other moments that stand out include traveling with recording artist Lauryn Hill to South Africa for a styling gig in 2006 and my first LOVE + MADE handbag design with Matahari.

What career advice that you would give?

Surround yourself with people that inspire you, know that internships and networking can take you further than you think, and turn your ideas into projects.

What are you currently working on and what do you have in the works for the future?

I am currently working on a Stussy x LOVE + MADE collaboration that launches this August at Stussy stores and boutiques worldwide. Our goal is to continually expand our product category—we want to venture into home and cosmetics, even electronics. LOVE + MADE plans to continue collaborating with individuals and brands that reflect the lifestyle we support. In the next year, we will be launching home products and apparel.

The core values of the Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Altitude Edition are edge, strength and innovation. Which of these values do you personally identify with in your life and why?

I really identify with all of Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Altitude Edition’s values in both my professional and personal life. Staying cutting-edge and innovative are unchanging goals for me as a designer. I’m constantly trying to come up with fresh ideas that exhibit skilled craftsmanship and exceptional quality of product.

In my personal life, I define edge as taking chances and making game-changing decisions in my day-to-day life. I continually strive to maintain strength in self-motivation and innovation through looking to new perspectives in not just personal style, but lifestyle.


Garde

Our interview with the founder of LA’s new home design and accessories shop
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With a style owner Scotti Sitz describes as “modern natural,” the new Los Angeles boutique Garde inhabits a tranquil and airy space stocked with eclectic handmade items.

Summoning her years of experience in fashion and interior design, Stitz filled the richly textured, light-filled shop with merchandise highlighted by carefully selected furnishings like hand-crocheted collars by Nathalie Costes, 2550º Candles and jewelry by Naomi Maslon arranged on tables made by Kristan Cunningham and Scott Jarrell.

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We caught up with Sitz to learn more about the store from its opening to the constantly evolving collections she curates.

How would you describe Garde?

We are definitely a gift shop with home accessories. I wanted the opportunity to bring in designers and artists who weren’t necessarily represented here. I can mix my reasonably priced quilts and pillows with maybe a more luxurious cashmere throw. When something has a price point here that is a little bit higher, there is a reason for it. There is a process behind it in terms of the work and the material. Not just for the sake of being a luxury good.

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With so many shopping neighborhoods to choose from in Los Angeles, why did you decide to open on Beverly Boulevard?

I used to live in this neighborhood in the Beverly corridor a few years ago and I have watched it evolve. It’s become a destination for high-end vintage furniture, great restaurants and accessories. We looked at this space. It was a dump. The building is from the early 1940s and it had not been touched. The first business here was a bank of operators. It was the pre-411. So if you wanted to know who sold apple pies in Los Angeles between Fairfax and La Brea, these operators would tell you where to go. When we got this space there were the old phone jacks all along this wall. Then 30 years ago an electronic repair shop opened here. There was linoleum and false ceilings. The skylight was boarded up. We gutted the space.

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Why the name Garde?

We named the store Garde, keeping the idea of something new and different, and I also like the definition as it applies to “en garde, the stance in fencing to prepare for your match.

What is the philosophy behind the things you include in the store’s collection?

I ask myself, “Would I put it in my house?” “Would I wear that item?” If I have to say no, then it does not belong here. Except for some basics at good price points, everything has to have a story behind it. Everyone I represent has a story to tell. They have a process to tell and a unique and wonderful product. I love a good story.

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What is your latest favorite item in the shop?

My new obsession is Christien Meindertsma. She’s from the Netherlands. She is represented by Thomas Eyck. What I love about her is she comes up with a concept for a product design and takes it to an end product. I fell in love with her flax project a couple of years ago. Meindertsma commissioned a farmer to plant the flax seeds. Then she designed her flax collections, the flax ropes she makes into lighting fixtures. I also sell her wool Urchin poufs. If you go on her website you’ll see pictures of the sheep. They are all numbered. I love seeing the photos before and after they have been sheared.

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Who are some of the designers that inspired Garde’s style?

I love Vincent Van Duysen pottery. He is a huge inspiration to me in terms of his look and design. The ceramic canisters with a sand-blasted white oak lid. The first time I got them in they weren’t even here for 24 hours. Something like that you have to touch. It has a softness to it that is just beautiful. It’s the same with Sara Paloma‘s pieces. Right now I am sold out of her work, except for one vase. We had a collection in when I first opened that I would literally make everyone touch because it was so exquisite and feels like suede. I also feel that way about the hand-blown glass vessels with cast brass botanical stoppers by Lindsey Adelman.

Tell us about the apparel you have in store right now.

They are from a fashion house in India called Injiri. Everything is hand-done—the beading, the tassels, the lace, the buttons, the embroidery. There is a lot of workmanship that goes into these garments. I like the idea of carrying things that are good basics that can cross over. The scarves can be worn by men or women. The shirts are more of a year-round garment.

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Who made the leather bags hanging on the wall?

They are one-of-a-kind. The designer is T Smith Knowles. She’s local. Everything is hand-done, the stitching, the beadings are antique. The workmanship that goes into those bags is just exquisite. They really are unique, all hand-signed and numbered. The leather is the finest and really light-weight. She will even customize the strap for each customer.

Why do you do this?

I think what is so wonderful about this time is that there are so many amazing artists. It is the best time to do something like this. I can showcase my favorite artists and designers and many people who’s work is not represented everywhere else.


Askov Finlayson

Minneapolis retail innovators Eric and Andrew Dayton talk about their one-stop shop

By Joan Erakit

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Askov Finlayson owners and founders, brothers Eric and Andrew Dayton believe in a simple design philosophy: keep it fun. The lighthearted approach they took to their men’s retail store in Minneapolis’s North Loop neighborhood highlights their personal style and aesthetic while removing any pretense. Founded in October 2011 as the retail component to their space that also includes their Nordic-style restaurant, The Bachelor Farmer, and Marvel Bar, Askov Finlayson rounds out the offerings while reflecting their sense of entrepreneurial creativity.

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The handsome space features wall-to-wall exposed brick, high ceilings and antique rugs, making for the prime setting to showcase a selection that can be hard to come by in Minnesota. Merchandised with the idea of creating a comfortable space reflective of the Daytons’ laid-back style, the arrangement of clothing and accessories among home goods and design objects makes the visitor feel at home while shopping.

We dropped by Askov Finlayson to chat with the brothers during their annual Krafstkiva festival, a traditional Nordic celebration in August boasting fresh crayfish, live bands and plenty of brews.

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What was the concept behind Marvel Bar, The Bachelor Farmer and Askov Finlayson? Why all three spaces in one location, and why here in Minneapolis?

Eric: Well, this was a neighborhood we knew well. We both live nearby—just down the river from here—so we go to Moose and Sadies for coffee and we visit the small shops in the area. It was still pretty early on in the development, so it was a neighborhood we saw heading in a promising direction and would be something exciting to be a part of, and that was as far as our thinking had gone. We weren’t really actively looking, it was just something fun to think about. We were both away at different grad schools outside of Minnesota, and I heard from a friend about this particular building—this guy who owned it for 30 years or so and kind of tinkered around in here, and he would never entertain offers and wasn’t interested in selling. So it wasn’t an abandoned building, but it was a pretty closed-off building.

Andrew: There was a little sign on the front door—which is now the retail space—and he must have gotten a lot of inquiries because he had a little sign up on the door that more or less said, “Not for sale. Don’t even ask. Go away.”

So how did the building end up in your hands?

Eric: It went from the “Don’t even bother asking, go away” building to finally there being a little “For Sale” sign in the window, and a friend called me. I was out in California at school, and my friend said that the building is now for sale and you should check it out. So it began with a phone call inquiry, and then I came home from California. I spent more and more time in the building, and because there was a lot of space—it was probably more space than we would want to do just a store or just a restaurant, or just a bar—it became this opportunity to combine a few different ideas and shared interest that Andrew and I had. We could just sort of see how it could fit well together. It was something that we’d seen in other places done well—maybe it was in the same building, maybe it wasn’t. For example, a hotel where you have a restaurant and a bar, and maybe there’s a retail component. We liked the idea of the three different pieces, each being separate, each having its own identity, but working well together and driving energy that would be shared between businesses.

You might come from dinner and stay for a drink, or come to shop and then meet and friend for dinner—whatever people want to do with it—but it could also be kind of a community hub and something of a clubhouse feel without the private membership aspect—a place where people could feel at home.

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What went into designing the retail space?

Andrew: The store was…I don’t want to say the “least” planned-out, because we put a lot of work into it, but when we built out the restaurant, we worked with a contractor that had experience with projects of this magnitude and really helped us do a great layout in terms of what was best for the diners, what was best for the kitchen and everything else. That was a main focus of our dealings—same with the bar. But for the store, we decided that we were going to go a different route, and we worked with a local woodworker who helped us conceptualize the space and built the main point-of-sale stand, the moving racks and the bench on the window sill. Beyond that, it was just found tables, two chairs from my apartment and a rug from my apartment.

Wow, it really came together on a shoe string.

Andrew: Yeah, we wanted it to feel eclectic to a certain extent. The merchandise is a representation of items that we’ve found and fallen for over the years, and we wanted the components and fixtures of the store to feel the same way. As opposed to working with a contractor to build it out, we put it together ourselves. It was fun.

Eric: It’s the space that’s evolved the most since we opened. When I think of where it was when we opened and where it is now, it’s been fun to see it evolve as we’ve added more brands and expanded in new categories. Now with the help of Charlie Ward—who is the studio assistant for Alec Soth, the photographer whose work we have hanging in the main dinning room—we are putting together some really great art books. Now it’s like, “Where are we going to put all our art books?” We go out to the salvage shops out in Northeast, and we find an old baker’s rack, and now we’ve got that for books. With the restaurant and the bar we sort of knew what those needed to look like from the beginning, whereas with the store, we’ve kind of been learning or moving things around, and it’s not done even done yet.

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Do you guys do all the buying for your merchandise?

Andrew: Yeah, we were in New York just two weeks ago for market week, and we’ve been out there about three times. We opened the store last October, and the restaurant last August, so the first time we went out there, we didn’t have a space, we had business cards. It was sort of interesting walking out there and trying to sell ourselves. We basically said, “We’re going to open this cool store. You can’t see it yet, it doesn’t exist, but sell us your stuff.” Fortunately folks were willing to take a leap of faith with us.

Eric: We really had to trick the first couple of brands into selling to us.

Eric: I can’t remember who we lined up first, but I think it helped that, in Minneapolis, we were going after brands that weren’t here and so they were excited for a new market. We also explained the whole project and they where excited by that, but we really had to bluff our way through those first couple of meetings.

Andrew: The whole project is personal to a certain extent. We put a lot of our time, energy and resources into getting this off the ground, but the store in general, I’d say, is the most personal. With the restaurant we’ve been able to manage thee vision and drive it forward, and really rely on our team and great management. We’re not cooking the food, and you wouldn’t want me serving your table. It’s still really a meaningful part of what we do every day, but it’s not personal at the level of the store, where we’re going to New York and making the final call in what we’re carrying. So in that sense, it’s sort of the most hands-on project.

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In the selection process with the brands that you’re bringing in, do they mimic your own personal styles?

Andrew: Yeah, I think there’s a lot of overlap between Eric’s and my personal taste. We’re not redundant, we have different perspectives to a certain extent and there’s enough that we disagree on where I think the selection process is paired down to what is usually the better result.

When someone comes into any of the three spaces, is there a specific experience you want them to have?

Eric: We want them to have a good time and to have fun. Something we had in mind with the restaurant and the bar—without going overboard or hamming it up—was how many different moments can we create to make someone smile, where there’s going to be a little unexpected detail. Maybe they’ll miss it, maybe they won’t care, but if they notice it and they do care, they will appreciate that we were thoughtful about whatever that is. There’s hopefully a sense of fun or whimsy and playfulness in the design, and it’s not meant to be too self-conscious or taken too seriously. There are a lot of colors and patterns, and it’s meant to have a good energy that way—I’d say downstairs especially with Marvel, but also in the store as well. There’s substance and quality in everything we carry, but it’s meant to be fun.

Andrew: I think people experience it in different ways too. Some people come into the restaurant and what wows them is the history of the building. It’s this great old space which was built in 1902, and the front portion where the store lives was built in 1881. There’s a lot of history here and I think some people come in and they’re excited by the historic setting of the meal or the historic setting of the shopping experience—and some people come in and they’re excited by the design, the colors and the patterns. In the store, people may come in and come across a great classic Barbour coat that has a real timeless feel to it, or someone might come in and be drawn to something a bit more ambitious with colors and whatnot. I think it’s been set up in a way where people can sort of take from it what they want.

Images by Taimoor Dar


E5 Bakehouse

Our interview with the man behind Hackney’s delicious sourdough invasion
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Chances are if you’ve eaten at one of East London’s more discerning restaurants of late, you’ve come across delicious sourdough bread baked at e5 Bakehouse. Tucked under one of the brick railway arches lining London Fields, the bakery is the work of Ben Mackinnon, who built the enterprise from scratch just over two years ago. Now, he and a team of artisans bake more than 300 loaves of sourdough bread a day—from Russian rye to Spelt—and deliver it by bike to around 30 Hackney establishments.

We recently sat down with Mackinnon to learn more about the bakehouse and cafe, and some of the secrets behind e5’s distinctly tasty organic breads.

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How did you get into baking?

About two and a half years ago I was kind of scratching my head about what to do with my life. I was working in this job that sounded really good—sustainability consulting—and I kind of wanted to do things, and I still do, that just try and make the world a cooler place to live in. I was getting kind of bored with consulting, so I took bit of time out, and had a great summer fixing up a boat up, but it wasn’t really going anywhere.

Then I did a bit of traveling and I was in the south of Spain where my parents have this wicked little house in a village and there was some flour left in the cupboard by my mum—and I made bread in the past because I think it’s kind of cool to be more self-sufficient. So I thought, “well I’ll make some bread.” The next day I was talking to my dad and I was like, “I’m thinking about becoming a baker.” I was expecting a snort or something down the phone and he was like, “Oh, quite a good idea.” It really surprised me. Then the next day he sent me a link to a place called The School of Artisan Food, which had just opened up in the north of England. I thought about that for a little while, and then I went over to Morocco and the idea just kind of grew.

I was in fairs and I walked into this little bakery in one of the main streets, and I loved it. There was a massive oven going back, a wood-fired oven, and one guy working it with a long peel. They invited me upstairs to a tiny room above the oven so it was very warm (which is kind of good conditions for the break they were making) and I was like, ‘Oh this feels nice!’ I just felt so good in there, so I signed up for the course.

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How did that evolve into e5 Bakehouse?

When I came back I was lucky and got a bit of freelance work in sustainability, and I arranged with a local pizza oven to use their oven. And then I just kind of played the two careers off against each other and the bread-making just kept feeling a lot better. So I signed up a couple neighbors to get bread every Saturday so that I had at least 15-20 people to sell bread to every week.

If I was going to do it seriously I needed a space. I thought, “I really love that wood-fired oven back in Morocco.” I like the concept of cooking on a renewable fuel. I asked the girl who runs Happy Kitchen next door if I could move in and build a wood-fired oven and she was cool with it. It caused chaos in that place for about two months, walking through bricks and sand. I built the oven in one place then realized in was the wrong place and we had to move it. I can’t believe what they put up with, it was remarkably fortunate.

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How did you know how to build a wood-fired oven?

Oh, I didn’t. My sister was around, and I spent quite a lot of time hanging out with a dude who is a medieval kiln expert, so he was into firing pottery in wood-fired kilns. He was giving me lots of ideas, but that was more the route of a domed oven. My sister and I built a domed pizza oven in my backyard, but that was never commercial size. And then she found this design for a rocket oven, which is an efficient way of burning fuel—it was developed for Africa where fuel is more limited.

We got fire bricks, and then housing bricks from scrap, we stole paving slabs from the council—it’s amazing what you find when you don’t have money, you forage. We found the sand we needed, a bit of cement here and there. I found fire cement, got loads of clay from Suffolk, where I grew up, which is traditional clay and really good for heat. We just kind of cobbled it together. It’s a bit more like a modern oven, it’s a big metal box with a fire underneath and a deck and level in between and two big trays. The gases kind of go around the sides of the box and heat up the box. It was remarkable it worked, I couldn’t believe it, really—it fucking worked. It could bake about 16 loaves at a time. But you’re not really allowed to burn wood, it seems, in a central area, although maybe in the future I’ll get permission for that. We’re now operating with an electric oven, but the rest of it is very sustainable.

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Did you build out the bakehouse yourself?

Yeah, we laid the floor, and when we moved in we built this front counter. I got these lampshades from a warehouse that was knocked down on Kingsland Road, I bought this sliding door second-hand and the stained glass comes from a few doors down. We just got this posh kitchen unit built by some local craftsmen, I suppose it’s escrowing up a bit, but again we’re using more stuff salvaged from out back—there are some welders next door who throw quite a lot out. It’s just about making things a bit more durable, and also supporting guys who we really get on with and want to work with.

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You bake a few sourdough varieties, which are you most known for?

Hackney Wild is our most popular bread, it takes three days to make. We just use organic flour, and that bread uses our organic sourdough bread as the starter, and that makes up about one-third of the final dough. It spends about two days fermenting in the fridge, then we take that and mix it with fresh flour and water, leave it for a little while for the yeast to really get going. Then we add a bit of salt, and we fold it over the course of about three or four hours and then divide it up, shape it, and let them prove in banatons, which are kind of wicker baskets, or in a pouch that’s natural linen. Then we put them in the fridge in the back, and we leave them there overnight. That’s where the fermentation happens really well, at about 5ºC—the types of bacteria that we want to cultivate operate nicely in that temperature. These organic acids are created, and that’s why our breads taste so good.

See more photos in the slideshow below.. Images by Andrea DiCenzo.


I Am Eleven

Kids talk to filmmaker Genevieve Bailey about that magical age

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What was your favorite age? For Melbourne-based filmmaker, writer and editor Genevieve Bailey it was 11. In 2005, armed with a plane ticket generously gifted by her uncle and a head full of ideas, Bailey set off to interview 11-year-olds across the globe about their views on the world, politics and their hope for the future. What started as a short film became a labor of love spanning seven years and multiple countries. The resulting documentary, “I Am Eleven,” takes audiences on an uplifting journey into the minds of those who will inherit the world we have created. The film has won numerous awards including Best Documentary at the IF Awards and Outstanding Documentary at the Newport Beach Film Festival, and has been playing to crowded audiences since it began screening in Australia this July. In addition to working as a filmmaker, editor and writer, Bailey spends a great deal of her time working for Darling Heart Foundation at the “Our Home” homeless shelter in Kerala, India. We caught up with Bailey as she finished a nine-hour day of screenings to discuss hard work, holding on to a dream and why her parents never had to push her to complete her homework.

Does it feel good to finally see the film playing in cinemas in your own country?

Yeah, it’s very exciting. A lot of people in Melbourne know about it. I was putting up posters on Friday night for four hours in the city in my parka. I was on my own thinking, “Oh, I need 20 of me.” It was freezing and every ten minutes I’d think, “Oh just another half an hour.” And people were watching me and I’d say, “Hey, come and see my film” and people would go, “Your film? What do you mean ‘your’ film?,” and I’d be like, “I made it.” People look at you like if you’re the girl in the parka and the beanie sticking up posters late at night you’re not the person who made it.

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How did you get into film? Was it something you always knew you’d do or did you initially begin another career?

When I was young, I was a real math and science geek. I guess I got to 15 and realized I really loved shooting stuff. So, I decided then that I wanted to go to university and study film. I did that for four years and did Honors and then went back and started teaching at my old course. I just really love it and feel inspired every day by the stories going around in my head. I guess I have a sense of urgency about my work—which might sound a bit ironic considering the time I spent on this film—but I just have this sense of urgency about getting stuff done now rather than putting it off and waiting. I was never someone who had to be asked if they’d done their homework. I’ve always just got on and done things.

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This is your first feature-length film after making a lot of shorts. How did the idea come about?

It was around 2004 and I’d been through a difficult time. My dad passed away and I’d been in a serious car accident six months prior, and I was depressed. I was working in a newsroom at the Herald Sun as an editorial assistant, shooting news videos and just realizing how much bad stuff there was going on in the world. I was feeling really flat and I guess I wanted to make something that would make me happy. At its simplest, what I really wanted to do was to make audiences and me happy and that’s why I set out to make “I Am Eleven.”

I’d never been outside of Australia so I wanted to give myself a challenge of going around the world, but rather than just hanging out with people like me or backpackers, I wanted to actually experience cultures firsthand in quite an intimate way. So, I thought back to my favorite age in life and that was when I was eleven. And I thought, wow, I wonder what it would be like to be 11 today and I wonder if 11 is still the special age that I remember it to be or if it’s changed. My plan was to find 11-year-olds and interview them. I was incredibly fortunate in that my uncle, after hearing about my dreams, donated the price of the plane fare and I was then able to upgrade the camera I had. I come from a family where those sorts of gifts are not just handed out easily so it was incredible that I had that support and belief from the very start.

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The subjects in your film all seem really open, honest and genuine. How did you locate these 11-year-olds and how did you get them to trust you?

In every country there were schools and in every school there would be 11-year-olds, but I decided early on not to go down that route because I knew there would be a filtering process. An adult, usually a teacher, would perhaps choose the brightest students or the student who really wanted to be an actor or a performer. And even though those kids would be interesting, I wanted to see what I found more organically. I found such amazing boys and girls and such fantastic personalities in such a random way that I decided that would be my style. I’d arrive in a new city, talk to people, and go out on to the streets, go to market places and shops, talk to the locals and ask if they had any kids or if they knew people with kids. That became part of the adventure.

A lot of people comment on how hard it must have been for the kids to be so natural. They’re very intimate portraits. It’s my job as a director and producer to gain their trust and their family’s trust and to make them comfortable. If I was in a film and I wasn’t comfortable with the person behind the camera it wouldn’t be an accurate portrayal of who I am. In a lot of cases I think the kids thought that since I wasn’t that much older than them and because my gear wasn’t that big and didn’t look that sophisticated, that it was like hanging out with an older friend and just being themselves. I didn’t have any parents not allow me to do it. One thing I did that I’d recommend to other filmmakers is to set up a website quite early on and put a trailer up so that audiences could have a look at it. Word of mouth was spreading about the project before it was even finished. From a marketing point of view that was good for us, but it also meant that the parents could check out the website and get a sense for what it was and that I wasn’t a creep and that it was a legitimate project.

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Seven years is a long time to work on any creative project. What kept you motivated?

When I started making the film, I imagined what the synopsis would be even before I started filming. And I thought “Yeah, I’d want to see that.” When I started this, I could never have known how big it would become in my life or how many years it would take but I always knew it would sustain my interest. I think, as filmmakers, you can start a project without any idea of just how much it will consume your life. The fact that the kids are so inspiring and insightful and that they made me laugh, and made me really think, has meant that I’ve been able to continue to work on it and market it. The kids speak for themselves. I think because of the nature of the film people leave feeling really quite pumped. They come out of the cinema really energized. It reminds them of their own inner 11-year-old and that energy.

I recently spoke with a woman who was coming out of one of our screenings. She came over to me and said, “I need to speak with you! I’m turning 80 this year and I’ve been reminding myself I need to slow down. I want to be here, there and everywhere doing everything but I keep getting told to slow down. After seeing your film and hearing you speak I just think, well, why? Why do I need to slow down? I’m not going to! I’m going to get off my bum and just do things, do everything.”

The film and the kids in it, most specifically, have given me this sense of self-belief and courage. I’m definitely not an arrogant person or overly confident but I do have this belief that if you work hard enough and you’re passionate enough, you can make stuff happen.

“I Am Eleven” is currently screening in cinemas across Australia. Find out more by watching the trailer. Any international film festival, distribution or sales inquiries can be sent to screenings[at]iameleven[dot]com. To let others know what you were doing at 11, visit “When I Was Eleven.”


Kevin Ma

Our conversation with the man behind Hypebeast
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Sponsored content:

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Starting out as an early chronicle of sneaker culture, Hypebeast has distinctly evolved into an online magazine that lives up to the tongue-in-cheek origins of its name as a go-to influence guide. Since 2005, founder and editor-in-chief, Kevin Ma has been a sartorial force in covering streetwear. Reflecting Ma’s own growing interests, Hypebeast soon expanded into coverage of art and entertainment. Collaborating with such style giants as Adidas, Hypebeast soon gave rise to HBTV, an in-depth look at the talent behind the brands.

Operating from its headquarters in Hong Kong, Hypebeast is driven by a sense of good taste uniquely its own; a distinction that has earned it the honor of being one of Time’s ’50 Best Websites’ in 2008 and a digital street cred that has led to the recent launch of its on-line store.

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Hypebeast began as a blog that chronicled sneaker culture. How did you come up with the name and how has Hypebeast evolved since its launch?

I didn’t actually come up with the term “Hypebeast” myself. “Hypebeast” is an existing term used to describe people who are obsessed about following a trend or wearing something only because the product was hyped up. I thought it would be interesting to use the word “hypebeast” for my blog to make fun of the sneaker culture at the time. I liked the irony of it.

I registered the domain “Hypebeast” in 2005 and since then it has evolved into something more than just sneakers. It’s fashion. It’s culture. It’s design. It’s art. It’s everything we are interested in.

See the rest of our interview with Ma after the jump.

What were your interests/influences growing up and what was your background prior to starting Hypebeast?

I have always loved computers and all things digital. I had my first computer when I was 13 and also got into the World Wide Web at a young age. At the time, I was also into basketball. I was never good at it but I guess you can see Hypebeast’s roots there.

Prior to Hypebeast.com, I worked in the financial sector but soon left to pursue Hypebeast as a full time job.

What key design elements do you look for when you’re curating content?

We don’t look for any specific key design elements. No rules. It’ really about what we (Hypebeast Editors) like at that moment. It may be bright colors. It may be prints. We never know. When we come across something we really like and are excited about it, we’ll want to write about it and share it with our readers.

Why do you think that streetwear and the culture surrounding it has become so popular over the years? What makes a brand successful?

Streetwear has always been popular because of the lifestyle it perceives as well as the price points. Students can easily afford a t-shirt from a street brand they like, whereas many designer labels are a bit more of an investment. Streetwear is getting more and more popular nowadays because of the accessibility of the Internet. It allows brands to communicate their message and lifestyle at a faster pace to a larger crowd and e-commerce lets people buy it whenever and wherever they are in the world.

A successful brand always represents a certain lifestyle. Some street brands represent the skateboarding lifestyle and some are closely knitted with the basketball lifestyle. People like a brand not only because they like a particular product but because they are interested in the image that the brand embodies.

What prompted you to relocate to Hong Kong and what are some current trends that you’re noticing there?

I grew up in Vancouver. It’s nice and beautiful but it can get a bit slow some times. I thought of coming to Hong Kong for a change since my family is from Hong Kong and I wanted to experience the difference of living in the Asian region.

People in Hong Kong are heavily influenced by a mix of European and Japanese trends.

Who is your audience and how do you distinguish yourself amongst other cultural sites?

Our audience is made up of people who follow the Hypebeast culture and share the same sort of taste and curiosity in fashion. We don’t try to be different from others or distinguish ourselves from other cultural sites. We only focus on doing what we like and share what we feel is interesting.

How did HBTV get its start and what sort of individuals are you interested in covering?

HBTV started as an extension of the Hypebeast editorial. Sometimes, we feel that text and pictures cannot fully express a topic, so we add in videos to make it more engaging for our audience.

We are interested in covering individuals who are different from the norm and are passionate about what they do. They can be fashion designers. They can be chefs. They can be anybody as long as they are different from the norm.

What are some highlights in Hypebeast’s history and what plans do you have in the works for the future?

The launch of our print magazine will be one of the biggest highlights of Hypebeast. We are very excited because it is completely different from what we have ever done before. We have always been digital and now for the first time, we are having a physical editorial.

In addition, we just launched our Hypebeast Store selling unique items hand picked by myself and our Editors. This is also a new direction for Hypebeast because many of our readers always ask where to buy items posted on our site. We hope this will help bridge that gap.

In the past, we have also done collaborations with brands such as Adidas, and Dr. Martens. Being a fan of these brands, I never thought I would have the opportunity to do such collaborations with them. It’s definitely a huge highlight in Hypebeast’s history.

As for the future-we’ll keep you posted!

The core values of the Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Altitude Edition are edge, power and innovation. Which of these values do you personally identify with in your life and why?

All of them play an important part in my life. Living on the edge is like running Hypebeast. I invest everything, my life, my time and my money to run the Hypebeast business each day hoping we don’t fall off. To do this requires strength and rigor, as I have to customize my lifestyle to run the business. Staying up later than everyone else, working harder than everyone else. Hypebeast is now inseparable from my life. We also have to constantly adapt to new innovations and make use of the new innovations that are out there fueling Hypebeast.


The Lovie Awards 2012

Celebrating the Internet’s most valuable European players
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Now in their second year, Europe’s Lovie Awards are quickly gaining momentum with a jam-packed program based around meaningful recognition of achievement in the interactive fields. In an awards-heavy industry, The Lovies—sister to the US’ Webby Awards—stand out for carefully selecting work that is as relevant now as it will be in the future. This distinction is clear even in the naming, which borrows from Ada Lovelace, the world’s first programmer who insightfully saw the computer as a tool with way more potential than simply calculating sums.

“The Lovie Awards are a pure kind of awards,” explains founder Nik Roope. He, along with a permanent panel of judges from the International Academy of Digital Arts and Sciences will pick winners from over 80 categories, ensuring a more standardized selection process for the annual competition. “I think awards are really important,” Roope says, adding that they created The Lovies “to try to help establish what things should be the standard, and what we should celebrate.”

In the lightning-fast field of technology, it’s easy to be overwhelmed by the increasing surplus of applications. Like the Gold Rush or the Industrial Revolution, this surge of digital arts and sciences is “full of brilliant inventors etc., but it’s also full of bullshit,” Roope remarks. In the same way he and his agency Poke London help clients navigate through the ever-changing digital landscape, the expert judges behind The Lovies reel it all in and decipher what will become embedded in our culture, creating “anchors” for the world to use as meaningful benchmarks for creative thinking in the digital realm.

As media partner, Cool Hunting is excited to see what The Lovies will put forward this year. There are still a few days left to submit an entry, which is “open to all European organizations and individuals involved in designing, building, managing, maintaining, marketing or promoting Websites, Interactive Advertising & Media, Online Film & Video, and Mobile & App content for European business, consumer or general audiences.” Also keep an eye out for the awards themselves, taking place this November during Internet Week Europe.


12 Inspirational and Exclusive Interviews on Yanko Design – Hideshi Hamaguchi

So far we have had four awesome designers share their wealth of experiences in this Inspirational and Exclusive Interviews series. Robert Brunner spoke about the core DNA of a designer/entrepreneur; Scott Wilson showed us how to rise from the ashes like a phoenix; Karim Rashid taught us his roadmap to success and Yves Béhar spoke about forging partnerships. My recent visit to the red dot award ceremony for product design at Essen, brought me face to face with the charismatic Hideshi Hamaguchi, the inventor of the USB Stick. Yes, the very same stick you use to store data, transfer files etc.

I could not let this opportunity pass up as I knew Hideshi’s perspective on innovation and design would be priceless and moreover his methodology and approach is so unconventional and inspirational, that it has to be shared.

To give you a background, Hideshi Hamaguchi is a chemical engineer and a math’s champion in Japan. He started his career in Panasonic as a researcher and after three years of working with the company he found something critically missing in the work environment and corporate setup. He realized that the company made no provisions to breed creativity. There was a lack of a logical approach to expanding the team’s resourcefulness.

Creativity for Hideshi is very intuitive based, however there were no concrete steps by the company to explore this aspect. He sought to formulate an approach that would expand his and his group’s creativity. And thus transitioned from a researcher to an analyst and then went to become a creative strategist.

I cannot draw!

Despite the fact that Hideshi has more than 120 innovations to his credit, it comes as a big surprise to me that he cannot draw! I had 2 Nikon cameras and an iPhone with me, and Hideshi, without naming them (confidentiality clause) told me that I was using 5 of his innovations at that very moment! According to him, if you don’t have the talent for drawing but are good at strategic thinking, then you can still become a great product designer. All you have to do is connect the design to the strategy and then turn into a language the company management people and the consumer can understand.

To sum up Hideshi, he is a creative thinker, a strategist, and an innovator who follows a process, which has a practical approach. His process theory is teachable and learnable, which is why he lectures around the world and conducts workshops.

How can people be creative without drawing beautiful pictures? What is Creativity?

You have to train yourself to draw diagrams and doodle.

Creativity is all about people’s mindset. Creativity doesn’t exist in the air. It’s in your mind, and even when we are collaborating, I am stimulating you and your outcome is stimulating me. To understand creativity we need to understand the brain.

Hideshi explains that the brain has two extremes: the structured thinking, which is very logical thinking versus the very intuitive and chaotic thinking. One side is focused while the other is all about exploration. The ideal balance between structured and chaos thinking is peaked at the sweet spot of Structured Chaos Mode, right on top. But this position is like a volatile ball that rolls in either direction, depending upon the individual’s inherent nature. To keep it balanced at the peak, you need to do something radical. From Hideshi’s experience the profile of moving from chaos to logical thinking to strike the structured/chaos balance, is wrong.

If the highest form of creativity is at the structured chaos mode, how can we manage it?

Technically there are two ways to manage it, first way: go back and forth between logical and chaos thinking, till you achieve the peak. Example, say I ask you to innovate a pen and present it to the red dot jury in one hour’s time. And after you do that, now I ask you again innovate the pen, but his time, I give you a day for it. The first day is to draw inspiration; the second day is to create some structures and ideas etc, till finally you give me the design. So stimulating the brain between the chaos and logic thinking, will peak your creativity to the structured – chaos mode.

The second way is to use a formula or some data analysis, example market size or market tastes for pens as a reference, and then combine it by drawing some beautiful lines that ultimately lead you draw some innovative features for the pen. So you make your brain use the logical and the intuitive side, at the same time. And thus you can hit the sweet spot. But in reality, you need to do diagram and you need to doodle to hit the sweet spot. Diagrams are something simple, something logical, and something visual. Draw the diagram and your brain goes to the logical side without being too intuitive, now to balance this you need to doodle. And this stimulates the creative brain.

So intentionally use diagram and doodling to keep creativity on the top. If you really want to have the highest level of creativity especially for a new idea or concept you don’t have to have the skill for drawing beautiful pictures, someone else can draw it for you. And the good thing is you don’t have to learn too many logical things either.

Since Hideshi is an innovator, I had to ask him…what is innovation?

Formula for Innovation : !? – ? = !

What – Oh this is the reason = Aha!

This is what Yanko Design is!

Innovation is all about creating new behaviors and new values for people. For example the USB Dongle. It created a new value of keeping your data on a small stick that was portable and new behavior, as in attachment to your data, sharing it with people and friends. In 1999 Hideshi came up with the idea for a client, of adding a tangible feeling for your data (he called it the sneak-kernet), we had that feeling for the floppy disk or the CD but it was time to move on to something different but no one agreed with him. At that time everyone thought that everything was going to be on the Internet and wireless so a cloud storage medium would have more value than this.

Even Intranet faced this issue. Hideshi and his friend are responsible for creating the first intranet in Japan. And probably the first in the world, it was done in 1993. He did it for Panasonic, where the board members were not so very computer savvy. If you see it this ways, intranet changed the behavior in people and the value for information.

Innovation is something that is something new; something that is doable and it should create controversy. It should create some tension in the conversation. One advice that Hideshi gives is that when you are brainstorming for creating an innovation; never focus on the idea itself, because that usually never helps. His focus is to analyze and see how people think. If you can analyze their thinking you can break the paradigm and go against their bias and thinking. You break the bias and push yourself towards the controversy thinking; this is how you break the paradigm. But if you cannot visualize the bias or the thinking of people, then you will not be able to innovate. You have to break the abstract things; you have to understand the way of thinking and visualize the pattern. If you visualize it, you can be a wonderful innovator. So basically you need to make a shift and break a bias, and this is the biggest barrier that innovators face.

Earlier in the 90’s the shift was focused only on technology innovations for computers, faster CPU, better inputs etc. but in comes Dell and they created a new shift with their business model. They revolutionized their supply chain, the customer experience and online customization of the PC. This was breaking the paradigm.

Engineer-designer conflict!

How to create a balance when you have to present a design or an idea so that appeals to the technologist and the corporation managers; in short how to address the engineer-designer conflict?

When we chart the Structured chaos diagram in a real life situation, unfortunately most of the population lies with the intersection of two structured-chaos loops. Majority of them don’t think super-structured or the other extreme of super-intuitive thinking. The problem is that we don’t have many people who can handle the structured chaos mode. Corporate mangers and engineers are more inclined towards structured thinking and designers and artists are more inclined towards intuitive thinking. They are two different animals!

And as he explained earlier, the engineers and corporate heads tend to use numbers and the designers use images; hence the dialogue cannot be bridged. They are disconnected and there is a lack of communication. But if we lay some ground rules, a common language can be spoken, for example the corporate manager should refrain from asking the designer about numbers and cost calculations, where as the designer should go deeper and relate a story rather than just talking about intuitive design.

Logical and intuitive people both can train themselves to move towards the balance sweet spot of structured chaos by pushing their boundaries and moving towards the other side of the graph.

The reason why Hideshi is ahead of his game is that while each person who he works with, specializes in their one field with total focus on it, and Hideshi has the ability logically connect the dots between innovation, marketing, strategy, tactics, uncertainty, technology and business model.

Special Thanks to red dot design, Germany and Dr. Professor Peter Zec.


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(12 Inspirational and Exclusive Interviews on Yanko Design – Hideshi Hamaguchi was originally posted on Yanko Design)

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