Interview: Nathan Zhang: We talk to the Beijing-based founder of Brandnü about his upcycled fashion operation

Interview: Nathan Zhang

Waste is one of the dark sides of development, especially in fast growing-country like China, and Beijing is no exception. With massive urbanization bringing crowds of mostly unskilled rural workers to the city and a literal ring of garbage dumps and unauthorized recycling centers besieging the capital, it’s often…

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Poketo Store

An exclusive look at the site’s new Los Angeles shop

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Eight years after Angie Myung and Ted Vadakan of Poketo moved from San Francisco to LA, they’ve fulfilled their dream to open a store for their successful business. Located in the downtown Arts District, the newly opened 4,000-square-foot boutique stocks exclusive in-store-only goods in addition to Poketo’s usual range of stationery, home and design items, accessories and clothing. The space also houses its new headquarters as well as a gallery. Currently in a soft launch, the shop will celebrate its official inauguration on 19 July.

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Rather than bring someone to help them with the interior design, Vadakan took on the task himself. He decided upon light-colored plywood as the theme, which was used in the display tables and walls. Customized individual braided rope lights created from red cloth hang from the ceiling, bringing a dash of color into the scheme.

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When drawing up the design plans, the couple wanted the store to be constantly changing, in part because Myung and Vadakan plan to hold workshops with visiting artists and exhibits for the public beginning in August in the same space as the boutique. To that end, the furniture was conceived to be easily transportable. Tables either have hidden casters at the bottom of them or—because they’re mounted on sawhorses—can be simply picked up and moved. No walls divide the space between the art area and shop; instead, the flow from one to the next is purposely organic.

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The result is a shop that’s minimalistic, modern and clean, with a touch of whimsy. Big windows lining the front, which they stripped of the dark tint that had been applied to them by the former space’s owner, allow lots of light to flood in, bringing warmth into what could otherwise seem visually cold because of its cavernous size. “It’s the actual realization of what you see online, on the website,” Myung says.

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Items exclusive to the brick-and-mortar store that can’t be found on Poketo‘s website include cookbooks and design books (with an emphasis on those that have a strong link to LA), personal care and children’s items, some clothing pieces, plus local accessories designers. Customers will also be able to find rare products from Poketo’s archives, most of which are in limited quantity.

Poketo

820 E. 3rd St.

Los Angeles, CA 90013


The NoMad Hotel

Our interview with the designers of New York’s new boutique hotel
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You know a neighborhood has made it in New York when it receives its own abbreviated nickname. The latest addition to the map is NoMad—short for North of Madison Square Park—which is also fittingly the name of Andrew Zobler‘s newest lifestyle hotel. Zobler, who is also responsible for the Ace Hotel across the street, was initially drawn to the distinct architecture along that section of Broadway. While the Ace set the neighborhood in a thrilling new direction, Zobler set his sights on the preserved facade of the NoMad to create something entirely new. “The challenge from an overall perspective was that we didn’t want to do anything that was duplicative of The Ace—we wanted to compliment it,” he says. “That was the impetus for going with something that felt more luxury, more European and more romantic.” Using the Beaux-Arts style facade of the newly opened NoMad Hotel as inspiration for the interior, Zobler tapped French architect Jacques Garcia to complete his vision.

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“What we really wanted was to explore Jacques at his roots, so we found a photograph of an apartment that he lived in when he was in his 20s in Paris, and you can see in the image the very early stages of the Garcia style—but much more bohemian and eclectic,” explains Zobler. “It was that image that we wanted to achieve—his very early work.” Garcia, who is behind Paris’ sleek Hotel Costes, sourced many of the NoMad furnishings directly from France, including a 200-year-old-fireplace.

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Also brought over from France is Parisian boutique Kitsuné, now located within the NoMad thanks to Zobler’s young business partner Tanner Campbell. Says Zobler, “He identified the Kitsuné folks as having this sort of style that fit the hotel. We wanted to find people who were really talented but were also idiosyncratic.”

From the inside out, the hotel boasts a distinctive feeling that mixes European hospitality with downtown NYC details. We checked in with Garcia to learn a little more about his design process for the NoMad, from the opulently dark hotel bar to the bright, spacious bedrooms.

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What drew you to tackle the NoMad Hotel project?

The fact that a lot of Americans (especially New Yorkers) are fascinated by the Hotel Costes in Paris encouraged me in a way to accept the challenge. With this Parisian success, from my experience, most New Yorkers who visited Paris visited the Hotel Costes property at least once—either for dinner or to say overnight. I wanted to find the same craze in New York for the NoMad Hotel—which, in my opinion, has both a French and American spirit.

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What about the original space did you find inspiring?

The building is extraordinary. The fact that it was a historical building was a blessing for me. I was also very impressed by the views of the city from the rooms. Also, the volume of the ground floor enabled us to build the central veranda, which recalls the Hotel Costes courtyard.

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What was your main goal when defining the interior aesthetic of the NoMad Hotel? What do you want every guest to experience with their stay?

My goal for public spaces in a general way is often the same. I had to go through the 1980s during which the public spaces were all white or grey and the lights were so white and cruel that the women looked like they were 20 years older. This didn’t please men, and therefore, men wouldn’t be interested in seducing women under such conditions. With the NoMad Hotel, I tried to do the exact opposite. This philosophy will be the case for all my future creations because these public spaces are made for encounters—and not to be satisfied from a specific aesthetic.

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You’ve defined luxury as knowledge. So, what defines the luxury component of The NoMad?

The luxury component of the NoMad is the simplicity in the sophistication with a feeling of eternity.


Pelicans & Parrots

Antiques and fashion take flight in two Dalston boutiques
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London’s East End is globally renowned for playing host to some of the world’s most stylishly eclectic fashion houses, art galleries and bars. But it’s the small gems you won’t necessarily hear about—unless you’re a local—that continue to fuel this reputation. Launched in 2010, Pelicans & Parrots is one such treasure. Nestled on Stoke Newington Road, just a short way from the beautiful chaos of Ridley Road Market, it’s a visual paradise, brimming with everything from vintage designer handbags through to antique leather armchairs. CH caught up with owners Ochuko Ojiri and Juliet Da Silva for a quick chat about antiques, aesthetics and avoiding the usual retail pitfalls.

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How did the name come about?

We chose Pelicans & Parrots because we like the juxtaposition of the elegant parrot and the awkward—but beautiful—pelican.

You have such a variety of stuff spanning homewares to fashion. Where do you source your stock?

Our stock comes from all over the world. Our furniture and objects are a mixture of new and vintage and come from different antique fairs and markets across the UK and EU. Much of our newer pieces are from the US as well as other areas of Europe. All our clothes are vintage and about 80% are sourced in Italy.

Do you ever have trouble parting with great finds?

Hahaha! We often argue whether or not we want to sell an item! I’ve currently got a rather nice hunting jacket that I’m very reluctant to part with and I seem to recall Juliet carrying a pretty special YSL bag!

You bravely decided to launch a concept shop, Pelicans & Parrots Black, in the middle of a recession. Did you have anything else to fall back on if this hadn’t worked?

Being a pair of creatives in the middle of a recession we felt we had no choice but to try our own thing. We had nothing to fall back on, and bills to pay. I think we have been able to survive as we both come from a strong design and retail backgrounds. We decided early on to concentrate on creating a beautiful space filled with things that we love that also have heritage and longevity. We are constantly sourcing and putting our own twist on current trends and this is something we think sets us apart from every other store.

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What are some of the challenges to owning and running Pelicans & Parrots?

Finding the money and convincing people that—although we do love them—there’s life beyond the Pound Shops. On the flipside, it’s a great and rare privilege to have one’s taste and indulgences validated. We also get to meet some fantastic characters!

Why did you choose this area?

After living in the area for many years we could see that Dalston had a fast-growing social scene and nightlife that had migrated from Shoreditch. But, there were no shops! We took great delight in being described as “Dalston’s first proper shop”. We basically created what we ourselves needed. We want both shops to create an aspired spectacle. Whether it’s our life-sized caged flamingo in our first shop or the anthropological chic we employ in P&P Black.

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Aside from your own store, where would you recommend people go if they’re just visiting East London for a day?

I would tell them to visit Ridley Road Market in Dalston, eat at Rochelle’s Canteen in Arnold Circus E2 and shop at Afrique Fabriks on Kingsland Road, Dalston.

Pelicans & Parrots

40 Stoke Newington Rd

Dalston, London, N16 7XJ

Tel. +44 20 3215 2083

Pelicans & Parrots Black

81 Stoke Newington Road

Dalston, London, N16 8AD.

Tel. +44 20 7249 9177


Word of Mouth: Hong Kong

Eight places to eat, drink and shop in the bustling metropolis

by Joanna Prisco

Designer mega-brands have established Hong Kong as a luxury shopping destination for some time now, but recently, a surge of smaller, independently minded businesses have been infusing the city’s neighborhoods with a bit of bohemia. Craft coffee culture joins the city’s world-famous tea houses, while a vibrant food scene anchored by dim sum now welcomes speakeasies for the cocktail-crazed and a growing number of ex-pat chefs and dine-in kitchens. Here’s our round-up of eight small treasures to seek out among the city’s 7,650 skyscrapers.

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Barista Jam

From pre-warming the glass for your piccolo latte to distilling the nuances between flavor profiles of single-origin roasts, the staff at industrial-chic Barista Jam in Sheung Wan offer a level of service exclusive to bona-fide bean geeks. House coffees are roasted in Hong Kong and blended on premises, while a rotating menu of guest coffees from around the globe like Square Mile from the U.K. and Sydney’s Mecca Coffee offer customers the opportunity to try new brews. If you’re feeling inspired, browse the retail area upstairs stocking all manner of French presses, La Marzocco machines, Cafelat tools and slow-drip filters.

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Yardbird

First of all, yes—you should hit all of the dim sum joints you can squeeze in. At some point, however, you will inevitably want a break. When that moment arrives, head to Yardbird in Sheung Wan. Opened last year by Chef Matt Abergel—previously at Masa in New York—this chicken-only yakitori den is as laid back as it is seriously legitimate. Try the oyster—which is actually two plump pieces of dark meat, near the thigh—the spicy, citrusy hearts and the large, juicy meatball with egg yolk dipping sauce to start. Then order one of everything else.

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Fungus Workshop

Fungus Workshop in Sheung Wan is divided into a retail shop for fine leather goods and an artist’s salon. You’ll go to admire its unconventional yet sophisticated wares and leave wanting to sign up for one of the hoiming classes, no doubt discussing fashion or design philosophy with another patron in the convivial atmosphere while you’re there. Take note the shop’s limited hours—three days out of the week, it doesn’t even open before 6 p.m.

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c’est la B

After draining your bank account in Causeway Bay, take time for a repast at c’est la B in Tai Hang. The eatery marks the first in a new collection of tiny cafes that trendsetter Bonnie Gokson is launching around her signature jewel-box cakes. The bite-size desserts, artfully capped with butterflies, flowers, pearls and dramatic spikes, are almost too precious to eat—but that would be a waste, because they are infinitely tasty, too. Say you were there before it appears everywhere.

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Central Hong Kong has no shortage of loud and rowdy bars. Housed behind an unmarked door in the middle of a wet market, Speakeasy 001 (LG/F Shop G1 Welley Building 97 Wellington Street) offers the opposite experience. This hard-to-find haunt invites you to unwind with its quiet atmosphere, colorful cat-house decor and cocktails like the Midnight Manhattan, using homemade vanilla and cherry-infused bourbon.

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Kapok Shop

One of the best parts of returning from a trip abroad is bringing back gifts you can’t find elsewhere. Kapok Shop in Wan Chai is known for supporting young local brands, and the outpost on Sun Street stocks an eclectic selection spanning elegant goldfish rope soaps, diminutive travel candles, sharp canvas totes, beautifully packaged teas and many other curios.

Moustache

A proper gentleman in Hong Kong would certainly have his entire wardrobe made by Moustache in Sheung Wan. Not only does the tailor specialize in well made, tropical ready-to-wear, but Moustache also regularly prints its own indispensable guide to Hong Kong, spotlighting new and exciting stores, restaurants, and experiences.

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Dream Nation

Alongside its own whimsical collection of clothing and accessories, Dream Nation in Wan Chai curates the work of other local fashion designers, musicians and artists, going as far as staging small performances and happenings inside the shop. I was so taken with Dream Nation’s fantastical atmosphere that I bought a cream leather crown, and haven’t regretted the decision since.

If you tire of all of the eating, drinking and shopping, fear not. There are plenty of things to see in Hong Kong without opening your wallet. Wander the alleyways and ladder streets and you will quickly find a world of street art on display. In the evening, ride the Star Ferry over to Tsim Sha Tsui and take in the light show that goes off across the harbor every night at 8:00 p.m. as a dazzling finale for any adventure.


Tántalo Hotel

Panama City’s recently opened boutique hotel combines locally inspired art and sustainably modern design

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Panama City’s recently opened Tántalo Hotel offers hospitality with an artsy edge in the city’s historic Casco Viejo neighborhood. Located in what is generally considered Panama’s arts district, the micro-boutique hotel houses just 13 rooms—each featuring artwork from one of 13 local artists—with an architectural facade that reflects the influence of the city’s periodic occupation by Spain, France and the U.S. While we haven’t yet been to visit the property, we’re excited about its potential as a new equatorial destination.

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The contrast of the exterior’s historical inspiration and the focus on contemporary local art on the inside gives the property a truly unique feel. With work spanning photography, painting and various types of installations, the hotel’s interior can be explored like a museum with the comfort of an intimate, upbeat place to stay.

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Central to the hotel’s design both physically and figuratively is the main lounge’s “living wall”. Standing at eight meters wide and two stories high, this sustainable, striking installation plays host to some 983 species of native Panamanian flora, watered by reclaimed rainwater direct from the atrium’s skylights. Additional eco-conscious considerations extend to Panama Canal-harvested wood tables in the Tántalo Kitchen and the use of recycled newspapers and phone books as insulation in the structure’s walls.

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To top it all off, the Tántalo Hotel features a sweeping rooftop bar with unrivaled views where guests can sample local craft beers and cocktails. For more information on Panama City’s Tántalo Hotel head online and for a closer look at what the hotel has to offer check the gallery below.

Photography by Stuart Hooper


Word of Mouth: Prague

Local gallery owner Yasmin Keshmiri Hejduk shares six picks in the Gothic city

by Perrin Drumm

On a recent tour of Prague’s experiential retail and gallery space Gallery by Minty Concept Club we had the chance to speak with the boutique’s owner Yasmin Keshmiri Hejduk, who suggested a handful of stops to make in the city she calls home. Here, Hejduk describes what she loves about her six picks.

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Cafe Savoy

It’s always busy, serving great French and Czech food. During lunch it’s almost impossible to get a table at Cafe Savoy, but into the evening the lights are dimmed and the white table cloths come out, creating a really lovely vibe. It’s in a beautiful historic building with original ceilings and wonderful decorations and chandeliers. The price is a little higher than local restaurants but it’s worth it. I love their soups, duck in honey, Svickova, oysters and soft boiled eggs in a glass to name a few. You can say I spend a lot of time there. Book a table especially for weekend brunch.

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Jazz Dock

It’s just on the dock, a modern building on the water with great jazz and a cocktail bar with a light installation. With views of the river and boats passing by in the summer, Jazz Dock is a far cry from Prague’s underground jazz dens.

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DOX

DOX is a contemporary gallery in the cool area of Holosovic. The gallery itself is an old reconstructed factory that brings really diverse exhibitions to Prague. The space, shop and the area are worth a visit as this is an up-and-coming part of Prague with some cool happenings.

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Krehky

Just around the corner from DOX is design shop-gallery hybrid Krehky, run by the agency behind Czech Grand Design and Design Blok. I love the space and the collections they have are always inspiring. The space is a real hidden gem, but it’s best to check opening times and exhibitions before popping in.

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These are three local female DJs Hana (Minty’s curator), Veronika and Marketa. They alway play at alternative locations and I love their music. They have almost become the resident Minty DJs and play at all our events in one way or another.

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Sansho

Sansho is a relatively new restaurant opened by Chef Paul Day. Here you find a whole mash-up of Asian fusion cuisine that is farm fresh, personally butchered and served in an informal canteen setting. Dinner is a seven course meal around 750 cz (about $40), but I like lunches best when the light fills the room and the crowd is more laid back. My tip would be to inquire about the specials, as there is always a secret offering that is not on the menu.


Gallery by Minty Concept Club

Our interview with the owner of Prague’s newest experimental retail and experiential gallery space

by Perrin Drumm

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Yasmin Keshmiri Hejduk opened Gallery by Minty Concept Club in Prague less than a year ago and already it’s become the city’s go-to destination as an experiential retail and gallery. “Gallery is a space where people meet, browse through new magazines and enjoy a more social setting to find goodies within the heart of Prague,” Hejduk says. “Gallery combines the cool aesthetic of Scandinavian design with friendly charm, creating a modern vibe and opportunity to discover a new world.” She is kept busy moving a constant rotation of clothes and accessories through the front of the shop while planning the next big pop-up event in the back, but after a well-earned vacation she sat down to tell us the story behind Minty.

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You opened Minty in September, 2011. What did you do before that? What led you to create an art/retail space?

I met my husband in 2002 in Prague when I came over to shoot a commercial. Having worked in the film industry for years in London and then running a Production Company in Prague gave me a real taste for creative activities. Though I’m a producer, I still felt that it was a creative job—you certainly have to be creative with money!

After having my two sons, I wanted to branch out in a different way and decided to set up Minty Concept Club as a creative studio/experiential agency. Minty became big in Prague due to the number of pop-up projects we executed and we soon got a reputation as a company that brings a real creative edge to commercial projects. It was a natural progression to find a space that can give us the opportunity to continue.

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What were your goals for Gallery when you first started out? What kind of role did you see yourself playing in the community?

The goal of Gallery was to bring lifestyle and trend-inspired projects to Prague while collaborating with young designers and artists. We really try to promote the people we have collaborated with. For example, we worked with Veronika Jirouskova on our set direction, Lenka Mikova, who designed the Gallery furniture and Veronika Vlkova for graphics and the murals on the walls. Hopefully, through these creative yet commercial projects, they can build a good portfolio for the future and we are proud to be part of that success.

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Can you tell me a bit more about how Minty splits its functions as both a gallery and a retail space? Is it common for people to visit and just look at the items for sale like objects of art, or to sit in a chair and read one of the magazines without browsing the clothes or other items for sale?

Absolutely. Gallery is all about creating an atmosphere within which we sell what we love, and the space almost acts as a mood board for Minty’s creative activities. The layout is perfect for what we’re about. The front is a more commercial shop with jewelry, one-off designer collections, magazines and emotive objects. The middle is a reading room and the back is an empty white space for exhibitions and instillations. I think the reason we’re receiving such positive feedback is because we’re more than a shop or a gallery. Gallery is based in Prague, but I think a space like this sits very well in any cosmopolitan city that has a thirst for beauty and inspiration.

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How does Minty’s neighborly vibe shape the way it functions in the community?

We are just off of Old Town Square and Parizska, and as much as we welcome passers-by we do not rely on the tourist trade. There’s always something happening and Gallery is becoming a sort of creative hang out. This is very important to the function of Gallery as our visitors are contemporary, fashion conscious and open minded individuals who add a very unique vibe to the neighborhood.

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Does the space become a more “normal” storefront in between pop-up exhibitions, or is it always in a state of constant exhibition, moving straight from one show to the next?

The space changes all the time. It all depends on the timing of our own projects, collaborations or exhibitions, which can last a few days to a month. We try to keep things different and fresh from merchandising and swapping the space around. The spaces have had dramatic changes from the Rocka Billy Tattoo Parlour for Zoe and Morgan, to a Black Forest designed by Igor Hosnedl. Even in between projects there’s something new to see, a new brand we’re launching or new collection arrivals. Some people even come in just to hear what music we are playing!

Can you talk a bit about your current exhibition, “Melt Your Cold Cold Heart?”

“Melt Your Cold Cold Heart” was a collaboration with design duo Rozbijim Se and Photographer Ladislav Babusak. We produced 14 limited edition Valentine’s chocolate photo packaged keepsakes. Within the project we created a glass instillation which had tasting stations with crystal water glasses. And finally in the back we created a black box with only a photograph lit, where the visitors sampled the chocolate in a more intense setting. It was a very fragile and personal experience that really enhanced the chocolate’s unique taste and the individual’s bond to the setting.

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What we can expect to see from you in the coming months?

We have lots of lovely exhibitions planned. We’re working with one of our favorite photographers, Bet Orten, and the indie music band, Please the Trees. Gallery has many possibilities. We love to continue to work with chocolate and branch out into coffee. I would like to say there is a really great coffee shop in the centre of Prague but sadly so far there’s not. There are many lovely spaces like Sucr Kava Limonada or Cafe Louvre, but the coffee quality is falling behind other cities, so you can imagine what’s next on Minty’s agenda!


MYKITA and Kostas Murkudis

Stainless steel sunglasses by two Berlin-based brands

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Experiments in production techniques and material selection drive the latest Berlin-based collaboration between MYKITA eyewear and womenswear designer Kostas Murkudis. The stainless steel frames from the Spring/Summer 2012 collection comprise two distinct models, the oval-edged Elektra and the more square Phineas. A former assistant to Helmut Lang, Murkudis brings to the eyewear brand a similar affinity for innovation and clean design. Each individual frame is laser-etched to give the cold material a mesh-like surface, which, along with the oceanic colorways of the collection, signals the textures and hues of summer. The silhouette and technology exclusive to this collaboration incorporate MYKITA’s patented hinge, which removes screws and soldering at the joints to further streamline the ultra lightweight frames.

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The artful shades are now available at Andreas Murkudis, a Berlin boutique opened by Kostas Murkudis’ brother in July 2011.


Sqirl Jam

Sourcing fruits for Jessica Koslow’s line of boutique preserves
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One bite of crusty bread spread with Sqirl raspberry and fresh lavender jam made by Jessica Koslow creates an explosion of local flavor. From the taste of such a juicy creation, it’s hard to believe that Koslow swears she barely ate fruit as a child. Now, her sweet preserves are quickly gaining popularity among discerning consumers and pastry chefs alike.

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The day after Koslow returned from a trip to London to sample bitter marmalades—she’s on a mission to satisfy her new bitter orange craving—we tagged along for a drive to Mud Creek Ranch in Santa Paula, California. Koslow has made several jams with Steve and Robin Smith of Mud Creek, including, for one, pineapple quince with rosewater.

With the Smiths’ menagerie of seven dogs in tow, Koslow checks out the Pitanga cherries, Palestinian limes, and Bergamots and places her order—”Whatever you have I’ll take it,” she says.

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Still thinking about oranges, Koslow inquires about Sevilles or other bitter orange varieties like Bouquetiers, but Robin advises her that Sevilles are too hard to grow in their climate, despite several attempts. Miraculously, Mud Creek did yield a tree of Bouquetiers for the first time this season, and Koslow is able to leave with a heaping bag for her marmalade quest. She feels that American jams tend to be sweeter—and Sqirl skews on the sweet side of those American options—but for her, the bitter marmalade flavors of London are where her heart is at the moment.

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The next morning Koslow will make her way to the other side of Los Angeles to the
Santa Monica Farmer’s Market where she will see Smith and the other farmers she has
befriended along her food journey. Then she’ll head back to Sqirl headquarters pull
out the custom copper pots—made for her by David Burns of Copper Gardens—and begin the process of making her bitter marmalade one juicy fruit at a time.

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Koslow jarred more than 6,000 containers of jam on 2011, in addition to piles of pickles, sauerkraut, cocktail syrups, candies orange peels, and several other small batch projects—all emblazoned with the bold Sqirl label designed by Scott Barry.

Sqirl jams are available at 15 Southern California retailers including Lindy & Grundy as well as in the Sqirl e-shop.