Ripped: T-Shirts from the Underground

Images: © Ripped: T-Shirts from the Underground

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A testament to the post-punk art and music scene of the ’70s and ’80s, “Ripped: T-Shirts from the Underground” offers a visual history of the time through rare and one-off t-shirts. From Sonic Youth to Run DMC, the Sex Pistols to The Kinks, Talking Heads to The Cure, and, of course, Van F****** Halen, the tees in Cesar Padilla’s 200-plus piece collection are impressive, to say the least. Padilla, owner of downtown NYC vintage store Cherry and the book’s editor, has been working on the collection since he was a kid. Here, he shares the best of the bunch –glorious sweat stains and all – alongside musings of luminaries of the decades, like fashion designer Betsey Johnson and Sonic Youth’s Thurston Moore, as well as younger fans including singer/songwriter Will Oldham.

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As singer/poet/writer/all-around-agitator Lydia Lunch describes in the book’s introduction, for decades, t-shirts have acted as an “iconic symbol of defiance.” The DIY stylings of many of Padilla’s tees reinforce this sentiment, as do insights from musicians and artists. Commenting on a spread of Sonic Youth shirts, for example, Thurston Moore writes: “A cool t-shirt has no rules, the more unique the better. I was doing solo sets on the 1994 Lollapalooza tour and decided to sell T-shirts that were limited and designed on the spot. I hit Targets and Wal-Marts and bought white Beefy-Ts and magic-markered art and words on them, signed and numbered them, and sold them for a couple of bucks more than I paid.”

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Describing the impetus behind his collection, Padilla concludes, “I grew up in Southern California and was raised by my two sisters. As a consequence, I was on the Sunset Strip at an early age, attending rock shows and being exposed to many things a ten-year-old wouldn’t normally have been exposed to. In 1988, I went traveling to South America. When I returned, my mother had thrown away my rock T-shirt collection, documenting this misspent California youth. Since then, I have been searching for the Holy Grail. This collection is clearly a direct result of such pillaging.”

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Ripped comes out 9 March 2010 and is available now for pre-order on
Amazon
.


Maaike Mekking: Witch-Craft-Wo-Man-Ship

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While much of the recent London Fashion Week lacked the edge of past seasons with designers taking the safer route by showing subdued ready-to-wear collections, Dutch-born designer Maaike Mekking seized on high drama (what some might say fashion does best) with her collection dubbed “Witch-Craft-Wo-Man-Ship.”

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Channeling the spirit of cult films such as Christiane F and Bandlands, Mekking showed a collection of wearable separates reflecting her own take on the classic American biker jacket, jeans and white t-shirt. To heighten the intensity, she mixed in contrasting materials including sheepskin, corduroy, chiffon and wool—all thrown over a tribal-patterned bodysuit.

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Since completing a masters in Womenswear Design at the Royal College of Art, Mekking has built up a solid platform of skills working under renowned designers such as the late Alexander McQueen, Humanoid and Alberta Ferretti. Now heading up her own eponymous label, the designer continues to captivate her audience with not only clothing, but also with an intimate range of interdisciplinary artistic collaborations involving artists Tania Leshkina, Anastasia Freygang and Joseph Xorto.

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Mekkings collection showed that while the main catwalks of London’s Fashion Week may have lacked a little electricity, there is still plenty of energy left in the city for those willing to take a step in her direction.


Hot In The Hive: Alexandra Cassaniti Face It Sunglasses

imageHere at the Stylehive office, we absolutely love our trendy sunglasses. That’s why when we came across these ‘Face It’ sunglasses by Alexandra Cassaniti, we just had to share them with you. The classic tortoise pattern on the frame is given a uber-hip and edgy side with the reflective ‘X’s shining at you across the dark lenses. The overall effect hovers somewhere between somewhat terrifying and strangely cool in an animated way. Plus, while they get points for uniqueness. I thought the whole point of glasses, sun or not, is to aid the vision and one has to wonder how much the mirrored ‘X’s restrict sight. One thing for sure, though, is that these are some seriously stylish sunglasses!

Price: $80.00
Who Found It: idabone was first to add the Alexandra Cassaniti Face It Sunglasses to the Hive.

Pedaler Clothing Spring 2010 Collection

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Targeting the growing market of bicycle commuters, Pedaler Clothing incorporates technical elements into clothing and accessories that could pass as a standalone streetwear line. Both tops and bottoms have ergonomic cuts made for the cycling movements, use sustainable bamboo wherever possible, and feature subtle reflective flourishes for added safety.

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Hoodies and t-shirts benefit from extended sleeves and torsos, with jersey pockets on the rear. The Anorak Jacket windbreaker uses water-resistant microsuede and a slim silhouette with a hideaway hood. And the American-made fitted shorts are a stretch denim and twill, sewn with a seamless crotch.

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Constructed of English waxed tartan, the Pony Express handmade messenger bag (below) incorporates hearty leather accents and hardware to balance timeless fashion with urban cycling functionality.

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The Pedaler Clothing line has price points between $65 and $165 and sells from select retailers and an online store. See more images from the look book after the jump.

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Caracalla Bagaglio Commemorative Motorsport Collection

by Quincy Moore

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U.K.-based makers of luxury Italian-leather holdalls Caracalla Bagaglio fashions their “Commemorative Motorsport Collection” line after the past triumphs of famous race cars and their drivers. The company, owned by motorsports aficionado Simon Jordan, borrows its first name from the Roman emperor whose historic baths were the site of Ferrari’s first victory in 1947 and gets its surname from the word for luggage in Italian.

While only die-hard fans will get the historical relevance of each bag, it takes little more than a simple aesthetic to admire the classic elegance of these weekend getaway companions.

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Craftspeople hand make each bag in Italy from fine leather that closely matches the interior color of the car it celebrates. For instance, our favorite variant, the Lotus JPS No. 6 (pictured top), uses stark black with gold stitching, just like the Formula 1 whip Brazilian Emerson Fittipaldi drove to victory in the 1972 Italian F1 Grand Prix.

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A stamp of the Team Lotus emblem just below the opening of the No. 6 adds to the immaculate detail of the accessory, a design repeated on other models. Features also include a detachable shoulder strap, internal pocket, end-to-end zipper, and metal studs for protection while sitting on the ground.

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Each measures 22″ long x 12.5″ wide x 11″ deep, and sells online for just under $445. Pick one up from Bagaglio.


Cult Streetwear

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At a moment when most aren’t even sure what streetwear is anymore, “Cult Streetwear” offers a survey of the style’s most prominent pioneers. One one hand it’s an essential reference guide to the ubiquitous category, but on the other, author Josh Sims’ discerning analysis explains how people and brands helped streetwear reach its mass status.

From clothing born out of “sheer necessity” to the undying appeal of the graphic tee, the book relays the history, breaking it down into three main categories—streetwear, sportswear and workwear. Sims also includes informative anecdotes, like how Vans‘ classic checkerboard shoe came about by chance after an employee saw a high school kid coloring in his plain canvas sneaker.

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With a focus on 32 influential brands (Sims admits it isn’t a definitive list), the scope covers streetwear labels that maintain creative integrity and a strong sense of identity.

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While many of the brands grew out of sports—Stussy, Burton, Fred Perry and more—some started as an extension of an (often graffiti) artist’s work, such as Obey and Fuct. Of course, the Japanese influence—mostly two brilliant entrepreneurs in the early ’90s, Hiroshi Fujiwara of Goodenough and Hideheko Yamane of Evisu, gets its due here too. Each saw streetwear as more than catchy graphics, laying the foundation for the luxury limited edition label A Bathing Ape, also highlighted in the book.

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The FL@33-designed book comes out this month. Sign up with publisher Laurence King to stay informed of its arrival or pre-order from Amazon.


Look For Less: Forever 21 Mesh Pearl Strand Necklace

imageThis mesh pearl strand necklace from Forever 21 is the perfect accessory for the stylish young woman that still remembers when the Material Girl was a lace tutu-wearing pop sensation, yet works just as perfectly for the trendy teen that refers to Madonna as “that buff singer that, like, invented yoga, right?” The pearls and mesh flower give the necklace a feminine feel, while the ruffled, intertwining mesh give it texture and edge. Worn over a cotton tee and cardi with a pencil skirt, it’s just right for a lunch meeting, or would look totally cool layered over long tanks and tattered leggings for a “rich girl gone bad” vibe. It doesn’t matter how many outfits you pair it with, though, because nothing beats the amazing price and the uncanny (but not copycat) resemblance it bears to one of Lanvin’s ultra-coveted, ultra-pricey mesh and pearl confections!

Price: $10.80
Who Found It: idabone was first to add the mesh pearl strand necklace to the Hive.

Bag Of The Week: Brahmin ‘Pasha’ Crossbody Bag

imageFlipping through the latest issue of Vogue, I counted not one, not two, but three mentions of Brahmin handbags– and that was before page 400. Seriously, pick up the March issue if you want toned arms. It’s that big. Anyway, the ‘Pasha’ crossbody bag caught my eye and I typed it into Google, fully prepared to find a four-digit price tag staring back at me – after all, sueded, croco-embossed leather and Vogue placement don’t come cheaply. Instead, I was met with a reasonable $395, meaning I can put it on my realistic spring wishlist instead the overpopulated one I like to call “Keep Dreaming Or Win The Lottery.” Sweet!

What: the Brahmin ‘Pasha’ Crossbody Bag
Price: $395
Where to Buy: brahmin.com
Who: lisannebee was the first to add the Brahmin ‘Pasha’ Crossbody Bag to the Hive.

Bowling Arm

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Made from the remnants of Australian cricket balls, Bowling Arm leather bracelets are a colorful wrist accessory that nicely utilize an otherwise purposeless scrap of material. Each one-of-a-kind piece builds character with wear.

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The brainchild of Australian industrial designer and fine artist Simone LeAmon, as director of studio O.S. Initiative, LeAmon focuses on creating engaging and sustainably-minded products whose process has a story to tell.

The bracelets come in red, yellow or white and sell online for AUD $44.


Label Love: Wren Spring 2010

imageThe Spring 2010 collection from Wren has me so excited! A playful but practical color palette of deep blues and muted pinks are mixed with flattering neutrals and whites. The looks are nonchalant and vintage-inspired, reminiscent of a summer breeze blowing through a day by the docks. Loose, slouchy cuts skim all the right places, while layered ruffles and bare shoulders add an insouciant touch. Most importantly, each piece looks comfortable and light and there’s nothing better than fashion that’s not only fun to look at, but also fun to wear. Click on the slideshow to see the sweet, laid back appeal of Wren’s Spring 2010 collection!

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