Bibliothèque

London’s book-obsessed design studio shares their top six rare reads
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As their name implies, London design firm Bibliothèque take an avid interest in books. The creative trio recently outlined how their obsession with printed matter informs their practice at the Design Indaba conference, explaining “it’s easy to cherry-pick inspiration in the digital era; we are pre-digital collectors with a fascination in the communication of images.”

Their bibliophile ways have clearly paid off with a host of successful projects in the Bibliothèque portfolio. In 2009 the group recreated part of Dieter Rams’ living room as part of their design for the “Less is More” retrospective at the London Design Museum, as well as a massive exhibition at the Barbican showcasing the work of Le Corbusier (casting a hybrid Barbican-Corbusier-inspired typeface in concrete to create the identity). The consultancy also art directed and designed the 2010 D&AD Awards ceremony and dinner, where their clever Yes or No concept included a “typographic expression of the number of rejections proportional to the acceptances” in a video installation. (See more examples of their work in the gallery below.

For a little insight into how Bibliothèque keeps up their book-oriented process without it being too “mentally exhausting,” we asked them to share a few of their favorite rare finds and special editions (housed on two shelves kindly donated by Vitsoe), because as they put it, “you can’t design in a vacuum”—or perhaps more to the point, “extra dedication always shows.”

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Dieter Rams: Less But Better

Starting with Dieter Rams’ now well-known “Ten Principles of Good Design,” this out-of-print title covers 40 years of his product design at Braun as well as works for Vitsoe. The 1995 book culminates in a chapter about the design of Dieter’s home, which of course he designed with the same rigor as all of his works.

Kieler Woche: History of a Design Contest

As big fans of publisher Lars Müller, Bibliothéque cites the editorial, design and overall production level of History of a Design Contest as a shining example of the imprint’s quality. Documenting the annual poster competition held to promote the Kieler Woche regatta in Kiel, Germany, the book illustrates all the winning posters (as well some runners-up) and, with works by Wim Crouwel, Alan Fletcher, Josef Müller-Brockman and Odermatt + Tissi, reads like a who’s who of graphic design.

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Design: Vignelli

This volume, a document of the works of influential New York studio Vignelli Associates since the early 1960s, presents the studio’s multidisciplinary approach to corporate identity, publishing, calendars, retail packaging, way finding, exhibitions, furniture and interiors. Few other monographs give a sense of a true total design approach with works that stand the test of time—many Vignelli designs are still in use, looking as fresh and relevant as the day they were created.

Siegfried Odermatt & Rosmarie Tissi: Graphic Design

Odermatt and Tissi have been producing outstanding work in the loft of a century-old house in Zürich’s old quarter since 1968 (without the help of assistants) and their masterful use of composition, type and image make this book a constant source of inspiration. Chapters with direct titles such as “Work for various clients 1947—1992” and “Trademarks/Logotypes and Examples from advertising campaigns, 1957—1972” show examples of the duo’s output, peppered with insights into design practice from other eminent practitioners. Paul Rand weighs in with “Some thoughts on the subject of trademarks and symbols” and Dr. Willy Rotzler’s “The concrete charm of abstract posters” rounds it out.

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Typography Today

Conceived and designed by designer and typographer Helmut Schmid, this title, full of fantastic examples of typography as a craft, is derived from a special issue of Japanese design magazine Idea. Republished as a book in 1981, it introduced select works of 88 designers from 15 countries, tracing the course of modern typography from pioneers such as Lissitzky, Tschichold and Zwart to celebrated works of Wolfgang Weingart, Wim Crouwel and Kohei Sugiura. The “new, expanded, edition” that came out in 2003 includes more contemporary works to help continue the story.

Ulm Design: The Morality of Objects

During its brief existence from 1955 to 1968, the Hochschule für Gestaltung Ulm exerted an influence that no one could have predicted from its small size or improbable location. Originally conceived as a successor to the Bauhaus, the school quickly abandoned that model and set out to explore the unchartered territory of designing for mass production. Under the direction of Max Bill, Tomàs Maldonado and Otl Aicher the school became and extraordinary laboratory of design and a center of talent. More than 40 years after its closing, Ulm is still considered the most important European school of design since the Bauhaus.

Bibliothèque calls “the influence of Ulm and the works detailed within The Morality of Objects…a big influence on our work, ethos and approach to design.”

See examples of Bibliothèque’s outstanding work in the gallery.


Dezeentalks at [D3] Design Talents: Hanna Emelie Ernsting

Dezeentalks at [D3] Design Talents: Hanna Emelie Ernsting

This third movie in our series of Dezeentalks at [D3] Design Talents features Dezeen editor-in-chief Marcus Fairs talking to the second-prize winner of this year’s [D3] Contest young designers competition, Frankfurt designer Hanna Emelie Ernsting.

Click on the symbol in the bottom right of the video player above to view the movie in full-screen HD.
Can’t see the movie? Click here.

Dezeentalks at [D3] Design Talents: Hanna Emelie Ernsting

Above: Moody Couch by Hanna Emelie Ernsting (see our earlier story).

In the video Ernsting describes how her couch design can be manipulated and formed as the user wishes and the creative environment she now seeks since graduating.

We’ll be publishing all 13 movies from Dezeentalks at [D3] Design Talents over the coming days. More details about the talks here.

See also:

Dezeentalks at [D3] Design Talents: AKKA
Dezeentalks at [D3] Design Talents: Harry Thaler

Watch all the Dezeentalks at [D3] Design Talents 2010 »
See all our stories from Cologne 2010 »
Watch all our movies »


See also:

.

More on Hanna Emelie
Ernsting’s design
Dezeentalks at [D3] Design
Talents: Harry Thaler
Dezeentalks at [D3] Design
Talents: AKKA

Dezeentalks at [D3] Design Talents: AKKA

Dezeentalks at [D3] Design Talents: AKKA

In the second movie in our series of Dezeentalks at [D3] Design Talents, Dezeen editor-in-chief Marcus Fairs talks to Swedish designers Petter Danielson and Oscar Ternbom of AKKA, joint first-prize winners of this year’s [D3] Contest young designers competition.

Click on the symbol in the bottom right of the video player above to view the movie in full-screen HD.
Can’t see the movie? Click here.

In the video the duo explain what sets the OLA table apart from existing folding tables and announce their next project.

Dezeentalks at [D3] Design Talents: AKKA

Above: OLA table by AKKA (see our earlier story).

See also:

Dezeentalks at [D3] Design Talents: Harry Thaler

We’ll be publishing all 13 movies from Dezeentalks at [D3] Design Talents over the coming days. More details about the talks here.

Watch all the Dezeentalks at [D3] Design Talents »
See all our stories from Cologne 2010 »
Watch all our movies »


See also:

.

More about AKKA’s
design
Dezeentalks at [D3] Design
Talents: Harry Thaler
Pressed chair by
Harry Thaler

Dezeentalks at [D3] Design Talents: Harry Thaler

Dezeentalks at [D3] Design Talents: Harry Thaler

In this first movie in our series of Dezeentalks at [D3] Design Talents, Dezeen editor-in-chief Marcus Fairs talks to Italian designer Harry Thaler, one of two joint winners of the [D3] Contest young designers competition at imm cologne earlier this year. 

Click on the symbol in the bottom right of the video player above to view the movie in full-screen HD.
Can’t see the movie? Click here.

In the movie Thaler talks about his upbringing in Italy, prototyping his chairs bent from a single piece of metal while studying at the Royal College of Art in London and trying to find a manufacturer for the resulting design.

Pressed Chair by Harry Thaler

Above: Pressed Chair by Harry Thaler (see our earlier story).

We’ll be publishing all 13 movies from Dezeentalks at [D3] Design Talents over the coming days. More details about the talks here.

See all our stories from Cologne 2011 »

Watch all our movies from Dezeentalks at Cologne 2010 »
Watch all our movies »


See also:

.

More about Thaler’s
design
OLA Table
by AKKA
Moody Couch by Hanna
Emelie Ernsting

Mahala Magazine

South Africa’s subversive new publication takes on the country’s contemporary creative culture
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Founded to “really assault the dominant narratives in our own unique way,” the South African magazine Mahala goes against the typically glossy grain with an “un-designed” style that allows its similarly raw content to shine. The publication launched in August 2010 and, now on its second issue, supplements a daily website—both the brainchild of Andy Davis.

Stories like “Surfing is Wanking,” “Racist Dogs” and “The Colonialism of Small Things”—to name just a few—shed light on topics that affect South Africans, but with its Vice magazine-style journalism, anyone interested in leading-edge culture will appreciate this unconventional upstart.

We recently probed Davis to find out more about Mahala’s beginnings, its future, and the overall state-of-mind in South Africa.

What do you most hope to accomplish with Mahala?

I want to create a platform for a racially-integrated South African youth culture that can interrogate our experience, our culture and really just provide an impetus for people to make good, relevant stuff. South Africa is still a radically segmented place. And we’ve got a whole backlog of shit that’s been swept under the carpet and kept out of view. I want Mahala to pick at those edges, to go where the art, music, literature, etc. intersects with politics, society and weird-ass South African dynamics like race relations and socio-economic disparities.

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The online site tries to crunch through what’s happening in South Africa on a daily basis. We aim to publish three to four stories a day. The debates we get going in the comments show that our audience really gives a shit about what we say, and they have a stake in the culture so they all pile in and make their voice heard, which is a good thing. But it can be quite rough on the comment boards. We have a non-intervention policy. We don’t delete anything. If people want to hang themselves kak vibes, so be it.

We hold the print magazine to a higher standard. We want people to read everything twice. It’s supposed to be a real collector’s item. But it also gives us the latitude to publish photo features, fashion, fiction and investigative journalism that isn’t always suited to online attention spans.

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What is the most challenging part of creating each Mahala edition?

Getting the right mix of words and images, without being too gratuitous or going too hardcore, but still being able to interrogate the culture and experience. I think with our first issue we were sitting on so much unreleased content that we didn’t temper it properly. So it was a bit relentless. With the second issue we got the mix a bit better varying between depth and levity. There were some almost academic style articles, hard-hitting investigative journalism, some great narrative non-fiction, fiction and some nice humor.

Another thing we really struggle to do is find good, black writers, photographers and illustrators. That’s not to say they don’t exist, it’s just that South Africa is so systemically fucked up thanks to apartheid that massive segments of the population were actively uneducated by the apartheid schooling system. So, generally speaking, anyone who is black, creative, talented and competent gets employed very quickly. And there just isn’t a plethora of young black talent beating down our doors, desperate to get published. And the last thing we want to be is a group of whiteys sitting around writing about black culture. We want to push this relationship into a “post-racial” space. Things are changing though, and it’s picking up pace. And we certainly don’t want to be those sad guys who do head counts based on skin color. But we’re still a long way off from the ideal of an equitable, meritocratic society.

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Does each edition have an underlying theme?

Not yet, but we may be heading that way. I think at the moment, we don’t need to introduce over-arching themes because the culture is happening all around us and having a theme would necessarily occlude some of the most relevant and exciting stuff. Besides, I quite like the way the magazine jump cuts from narrative to narrative. I want them to stand alone and not have too much editorial unity. We always said Mahala would support a plurality of views, so it’s cool for each piece to stand alone and not be perceived as coming from central editorial authority.

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What can we look forward to seeing in Mahala 3?

I think it’ll be bigger and better than Mahala 2. I thought there were some little failings in the last issue, that I’m glad to have the opportunity to rectify in the next issue. But those are mainly little publishing minutiae and insecurities. Generally the feedback has been overwhelmingly positive. At this stage a lot of the content is still in the air. We’re also working on a site redesign and, for our international readers, we’ll be making all the print mags available online as PDFs, from the next issue.

To subscribe to the print publication or receive their daily updates, visit the Mahala website.


The Pig That Therefore I Am

Life among swine in our interview with the artist Miru Kim on the eve of her solo show
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Photographer Miru Kim‘s newest exhibition “The Pig That Therefore I Am” opens next week at NYC’s Doosan Gallery. For her latest series, the Korean-born, New York-based artist juxtaposes her own nude body with those of about 300 pigs, exploring the spaces and similarities between humans and animals. Other themes take on the importance of touch in our development and understanding of the world—both the literal and metaphorical connective capabilities of skin—the evolution of pigs’ roles, and our relationship to them culturally, particularly since the Industrial Revolution.

By placing herself in their grunting midst, she also examines her existence as an artist—one who wishes to offer up her own skin for others to “see, hear and feel through art, music and poetry. I put my flayed skin on display in the form of a photo.”

Kim first came into the spotlight a few years ago with her Naked City Spleen series, which stunningly contrasted her nude figure with the grandness of urban ruins and industrial icons around the globe, such as atop New York’s Washington Bridge, inside the crumbling Detroit theater, in the catacombs in France and more.

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Her latest series is, according to Kim, a return to her artistic roots. We had the chance to speak with Kim on the eve of her much-anticipated show.

How exactly was the new series born?

I’ve been interested in pigs since college when I was a premedical student—we had to dissect a fetal pig to learn about human anatomy. It came to me as a shock that pigs were so physically similar to humans. When I decided to go to art school instead of medical school, I started making paintings of animals, and I found photos of industrial hog farms. Until then I had no idea where most pork comes from. It came as a shock that these huge industrial farms are so hidden and forgotten from people’s daily lives while they are regularly ingesting these animal products.

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Then I had an assignment in graduate school to make Photoshop montages, so I experimented with cutting out images of factory farm pigs and pasting them onto urban environments, especially subway tunnels. Then I thought, why not put a live figure instead of making fake images? That’s when I started photographing myself in tunnels and abandoned factories, which grew into Naked City Spleen. After this series was established, I decided to go back to pigs, and since I was originally a “stand-in” for an image of a pig, I decided to photograph myself and pigs.

Where exactly was the pig farm, and when did you shoot?

They were upstate New York and Iowa and Missouri. I cannot talk about exact locations because of political and legal reasons. I can say that it was close to impossible to get access to these places. This project really taught me first hand, ‘If you are really determined, everything is possible.’ It was that difficult. Even just getting the addresses of farms was difficult. I received letters from the department of agriculture in some states saying that I could be a threat to national security, and they could not disclose any information. The pork producer associations were very defensive as well. They did not respond well to my emails and letters and calls. After two months of constant requests, I finally got in touch with some farms and managed to shoot last year in the spring.

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Describe your state of mind while shooting the series. Was it all as you expected?

Pig eyes are remarkable. I find them more human-like than domestic pets like cats and dogs. Eye contact with them was shocking and mysterious, because their looks … were so strange and yet so familiar. The absence of human language between the pig’s gaze and mine became almost insignificant when I spent hours in the pens naked. I started to distinguish some different grunts of theirs and feel their emotions on a very physical level because I had temporarily let my guard down as a civilized and rational human being.

There would always be two or three (or more) curious pigs in the group surrounding me, and they would sometimes bite very hard. No pig had the intention of hurting me however. I could tell because I’ve seen pigs fight and I know they could have killed me in seconds if they wanted to. When they were nibbling on me too much or biting too hard, I would turn to them and express my annoyance just like another pig would, and they shrink back. It was very surprising that a 300-pound animal with so much more strength then I would shrink back at my grunt and hand gestures. With some pigs I had face-to-face interactions that were very gentle. It was apparent that they could somehow read my emotions as well, because the calmer I was the gentler the pigs were.

Have you shown the pig farm owners the images?

They saw them in my camera. One farmer said that he doesn’t understand art these days and that someone he knew in art school started shooting photos of his own excrement in the toilet, which he thought was ridiculous. But on the other hand, he said, what I was doing had beauty in it and that he could understand some artistic value although he couldn’t tell exactly what it was.

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The new series seems incredibly intimate, especially compared to the grandness of Naked City Spleen. How do you see yourself evolving as an artist?

This series is more about body and the philosophical idea of what it is to be human in relation to animals. In my previous series, the human figure represents a fictional character of a poetic narrative, so the figure is more prominent and singular. In the pig series, the human figure becomes immersed amongst other beings, and the performance aspect becomes even more important. “I” in the title “The Pig That Therefore I Am” not only represents “the artist,” but also the philosophical idea of the human being in a larger sense. For me, it’s very important to question the dualistic thinking that comes from Descartes’ infamous cogito ergo sum. I say that it’s not the thinking and reasoning that makes “I” exist. My body is full of life force, or qi, and I could feel the existence of myself more then ever when I lay next to these pigs and mingled with them with my skin.

With the new series, I’m tending more towards philosophical ideas and I feel that this is only the beginning in my artistic career. I want to do more performance work and experiment with other media like video, painting, and installation.

“The Pig That Therefore I Am” opens 24 March and runs through 23 April 2010 at the Doosan Gallery NYC.


Walls, Diaries and Paintings

José Parlá on experience and emotions in his solo show and new book
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God is “a shout in the street.” So begins Greg Tate, channeling James Joyce, in “Walls, Diaries, and Paintings,” artist José Parlá’s new monograph of past and present work. It’s a conviction that has perhaps never rung more true as the particular modern art movement that Parlá helped define continues to take shape. First made famous by the likes of Jackson Pollock and Cy Twombly, the sentiment was further romanticized by the subway graffiti artists of the 1970s and ’80s and is now a gallery mainstay.

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Parlá, heavily influenced by Abstract Expressionism, with deep roots in writing (under the nom de plume Ease) as well as in hip hop and breakdancing, and possessing an acute awareness of the geography around him and the emotions connected to it, practically illustrates the evolution of graffiti himself.

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The Brooklyn-based artist’s work takes these moments of time in the streets and makes them current on canvas for a whole new generation to explore. First and foremost a storyteller, he tells CH, “[I] love recalling the many crazy, fun, dark, wonderful, extreme, violent, happy or sad times that have passed me by. For sure when I am painting I need to exorcise some of the happenings of my life into something more than just a memory.” The stories he tells, through a mixture of paint, marker, paper, aerosol, charcoal and found objects allows Parlá to make these experiences physical.

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With a new show at Bryce Wolkowitz Gallery and the companion monograph releasing this week, Parlá shows us the full circle of his work, with each painting a brand new landscape to explore. As usual, each work is full of transcriptions where the viewer is invited to read as their own stories and layered memories. In “The Struggle Continues,” seen below, Parlá explores the concept of an artist needing to protect themselves once they start selling works. “No art school really prepares artists for the type of language that exists in the business world,” he says. It’s an experience anyone can relate to in their own transition into the workforce.

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Another work addressing 9/11, “Victory” pays tribute to New York City. The painting is made up of posters collected from each of the five boroughs, and depicts the languages, cultures and stories that make up his city. And although his work takes inspiration from his travels from Tokyo to Istanbul to Havana, he admits that NYC is his favorite city in which to paint. “No other place in the world sounds quite like it, and this is part of what informs my personal rhythm for painting. I hope to translate the cacophony into a symphony.”

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Through these compositions, Parlá creates a sign of the times, but also much more. “I’m a writer using the medium of painting to translate my original roots through a semi-realistic, wall textured, calligraphic language rendered into abstraction,” he tells CH. It’s this constant evolution found in Parlá’s work that allows us as viewers to once again become excited and involved as active participants in modern art.

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“Walls, Diaries, and Paintings”
 will be on view at Bryce Wolkowitz Gallery from 3 March 2011 through 16 April 2011.

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Mini Rocketman

See Mini’s LED-lit concept car’s dual-hinged doors and drawer trunk in our video

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Making a good thing better is hard enough, but making a small thing smaller may be even trickier.
Mini
invited us to see how they did both when yesterday in Milan they unveiled their new concept car Rocketman, a forward-thinking ride with features that suggest not just a future of more compact cars, but one that boldly uses materials, lighting and other features.

Lit entirely with LEDs, the all-glass roof (also embedded with LEDs) makes for a glittering look, accented by the carbon-fiber body, which also lends fuel-efficiency. Its diminutive size, measuring just over three meters and seating three, is geared for urban markets and, perhaps most impressively saves space with a sliding drawer-style trunk, that can be left open for toting snowboards or other bulky items. Hinged doors make squeezing into tight parking spaces easy and allow passengers to get in the reat seat without too much trouble.

We caught up with BMW design head Adrian van Hooydonk at dinner and learned all about the Rocketman’s spirit animal, his predictions for car design’s future and more.

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Is there a danger of being too cute with Mini?

The lines are more crisp and taut on this concept, because we feel that a Mini should always be like a friend, let’s say. But if it becomes too cute, than maybe people will see it like a toy, a teddy bear. Of course we like to appeal to young customers, but Mini traditionally is a car that appealed to people of all ages, cross-gender and all around the world.

The elements in this car, we believe are elements that could do that: keep Mini exciting, interesting fun, endearing, but also something to be reckoned with, also serious. Almost like a British bulldog—a small dog, but people take it seriously.

What are the challenges of designing small?

On a big car, it’s easy to make things move, do a door opening or a trunk. On a small car, it’s much, much harder. But exactly what Mini stands for, right from the very beginning, is being clever in a small space. And this car is full of ideas for a small space. The way the trunk opens, the original Mini had that too. In a tight parking spot, if a car is parked behind your Mini, you can still open this trunk and put your stuff in. Or the side doors, they have a double hinge that allows you to open the door, even when there’s another car parked right next to you.

How much less room does the door need?

I would say one-third, if you have to put a number to it. The Mini has quite a long door, because it’s a four-seater but a two-door car. If you open it with one hinge, you hit the other door and then you have to sort of squeeze in. With the Rocketman, we solved both issues. You can crawl in the back because the door’s quite long, but you don’t have to squeeze in through a narrow opening because of the double hinge.

That’s actually why we called the car Rocketman. On the one hand, Rocketman sounds like a brave little guy—and Mini is that, a brave little guy. But this car to us is so full of ideas, that we thought it’s rocket science by Mini. That’s why we call it Rocketman.

How did you treat the interiors for this car?

Of course we are dealing with a small car, but as a designer you can do a lot to give the feeling or the sensation of more space. We did this in the Rocketman in the sense that there is no dashboard like we know it today.

The dashboard takes up a lot of space. In the old Mini there was only a steering wheel and one big dial, and that’s what we’ve done in this Rocketman as well. But the steering wheel and the big round center dial have grown together into a structure. And then the rest of the dashboard is gone, you don’t need it.

Continue reading…

The lighting is another feature which I believe can do a lot to create a very nice atmosphere, even in a small space. We’ve played with that a lot in the car, and we believe that the light or the light color in the future is going to play a bigger role in the whole color and material set up of the car. Right now the light is treated very separately from the materials that we use in the car, and in this concept we made it an integral part. We thought about it from the beginning, it could light up in red or blue or some other colors.

You could customize to your mood, which is something that Mini offers today. There’s just one or two LEDs in the Mini interiors today so you can change the color seamlessly from orange to blue. But in this car now, there’s big surfaces of light. And the roof of course is transparent which is another element that increases your sensation of spaciousness.

What other examples of industrial design inspired the car?

We’re constantly not just looking at other fields of design, like industrial design, furniture design or fashion design, we also have a part of our team—actually a large part of our team located in California—called Design Works. And this design consultancy, we do industrial design for other companies as well. We are actually in touch with other industries, like aircraft industry, or boating. We design airplane interiors or boats exteriors and interiors.

And you always learn, so as a designer you become more creative the more you work on different types of products, or design problems. LED light is something that is coming anyway, also in furniture, also in housing. It is simply very small, it uses less energy.

It led to a whole creative outburst, because now we can position these lights in places where in the past a lightbulb would have to go in and there wouldn’t be the space. Without LED we couldn’t have done this roof or the illumination of the door panels, or the tail lamps where the air can pass through. It wouldn’t be possible.

What about the headlights?

In the headlamps, the way we use LED is we would like to make the light in a way that is soft and homogenous. We don’t like to see the dots actually, because we think it’s a little bit too bright, a little bit too cold. And we want to have the light be somewhat soft and warm.

What are the features you think are most likely to go to market?

When you’ve just presented a concept car that’s meant to go very far in the future, then that’s probably the toughest question to ask. But, the lighting ideas for sure. I would say things like the hinges, or the way the trunk works. This would be possible to put in production.

Also a lot of the surface features, the design the ideas, the form ideas we’ve put in the car, both in the interior and the exterior. I can see a lot of potential in using those because that is not necessarily technically difficult. That’s just a matter of seeing how it was received—judging by tonight that was good but let’s see if the broader audience in Geneva sees the car.

And this was also deliberate. If people see this car as part of what could be Mini, then we have just broadened our palette. We’ve just given ourselves more room to play. Because Mini has such a strong history, such a strong heritage in one car. Of course everything gravitates towards this one original car. Does it look like that car or does it not? I think this concept car will help us widen the palette a little bit, which I think is necessary to develop the brand into the future.

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55Factory

A collaboration of industry insiders making the closed off world of London Fashion Week more accessible

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One of the main criticisms surrounding the world of fashion and its ‘special weeks’ is that it’s too insular for the everyman to access, too preoccupied with itself and veiled in a snobbery rivaled only by that of a Royal Family peerage system.

Having experienced it from the inside for many years, London-based photographer Christopher Sims decided to play the antagoniser and look to provide an alternative view on fashion and its grand menagerie with a collaborative agency and film unit under the name 55Factory.

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As with many such enterprises, 55Factory operates as a collaborative hotbed – housing photographers, stylists, editors and creatives. However, this week 55Factory showed up at London Fashion Week to interview celebrities, fashion icons and style savvy individuals. The avoidance of the snobbery of fashion is central to the appeal of the short films from London’s Fashion Week. With no prior preparation Sims speaks frankly to his subjects about clothes, parties and explores the uniqueness of London’s premier clothes horse. Sims is happy to point out that the quality of the production is what one might expect from a camera and mic operation but stresses that it’s the subject matter which is important and the way it is approached.

The initial response from its short films have been promising with 55Factory looking to spread itself out to some more of the world’s fashion weeks in a continuing effort to break down some of the barriers between those on the inside and those looking from the outside of an industry which is still mystifyingly cloaked to the general public.

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Harlem is Nowhere

Novelist Sharifa Rhodes-Pitts on Harlem, gentrification and the power of unconscious style

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Sharifa Rhodes-Pitts’ debut novel “Harlem is Nowhere” finds the young author discovering herself in a foreign place that seems all too familiar. Pitts moved to Harlem after completing a Fulbright Scholarship in England, and lived in the upper Manhattan neighborhood for seven years. In that time she saw a neighborhood separated from the city within which it exists become bombarded by the outside and witnessed a community under siege. Taking her title from a Ralph Ellison essay, Pitts recounts her interactions with local historical and literary figures both real and imagined, creating a rich portrait of one of the most interesting and important cultural landmarks New York City has to offer. Cool Hunting sat down with the author to discuss her work and the neighborhood that inspired her novel.

As the first book in a trilogy, how does this lay a foundation for the series?

The book is imagined as the first part in a trilogy on African Americans in utopia, and the three parts are Harlem, Haiti and the Black Belt of the South. It’s interesting that you should ask whether it’s the foundation of that series, because you could argue that one of the other places that has a longer historical reach, which is the beginning of that idea is Haiti. Haiti was the first black republic, which is why it enters the list as the place it was first imagined where enslaved Africans could throw off their chains and create and imagine the republic. The whole history of Haiti flows from this original act, for which the people of Haiti were punished by the entire world.

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Yet, in the book you talk about not going to Harlem to seek out history.

It’s hard to say yes or no. All of that history, all of those myths that I talk about were so much a part of my mind from having read all those books that I read about Harlem and the poets, the photographers—studying all of those pictures. Of course all of those stories and history were part of why I ended up there, but once I arrived there I was conscious not to be caught in some daze of nostalgia or uncritical celebration of, “Oh ,the Harlem Renaissance wasn’t it fabulous!” If I wasn’t in this rhapsody of celebration it was because I was conscious of balancing out the myth and the reality.

Is the culture of Harlem still rich in the way that you expected it?

I think it’s rich in ways I didn’t expect it. In simple everyday ways, just the way that people greet each other and look out for each other and a certain way of being a neighbor. I imagine in some neighborhood that’s the norm, but in Harlem it’s exemplified, that feeling of community in an urban setting. I think there’s a reason they call it the village of Harlem. For me there was an attempt to become a part of the place, not just to live there and sleep there, and in my attempt to become a part of the place I began to care about its future and what is going to happened to it.

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What are your thoughts on the legacy of gentrification in the area?

It’s interesting, because what’s happening in Harlem is happening in a lot of other neighborhoods in New York. I remember reading—and it made me furious—a high-powered broker in the New York Times said, “they think they’re special up there why should they be different than any other neighborhood that will have retail shops and boxy condominiums?” To her obviously that’s a great thing. Why is it so different? Why is it so special? Not to discount what’s happening in other places, or to say it is not destructive in other places, because Harlem is alike other neighborhoods in New York in that way. Harlem is going through a rash of re-zonings under Mayor Bloomberg, more so than any other time period in its history, which is changing the landscape, and will change the face of the city for generations to come, period. Even if the current economic situation means you can’t see development in some places, the laws have been changed so that when the money comes back into Harlem and in other places, the band will play on.

What informs your part diary, part essay, part magical realism style?

Style is unconscious in many ways it is informed by everything I’ve ever read. I’ve certainly read a lot of Borges. One that comes to mind is W.G. Sebald, a German writer who died in 2001. He had that sense of is it fiction, is it non-fiction? Is it a diary, is it history? And of all of those things being able to co-exist on the page. When I first read his work when I was just out of college it was a huge relief and a door opening into all of those possibilities, to work across genres and to follow one’s own nose. I always say if it’s a first person narrative, it’s my eyes and my brain shifting through what I see and what I read and what I’ve heard about. What happened and what’s about to happen, and those things come through my eyes. But its not a first-person narrative in the way a memoir is. It’s more impressionistic where my personal experiences show up when they can throw light on a bigger question. In terms of storytelling, that’s the way my style is inspired.

“Harlem is Nowhere” sells online from Amazon and Barnes and Noble.