The LunarGrand Chukka

Desert boots get the high-tech soles in a new LunarGrand collection

As a follow up to the LunarGrand Wingtip, Cole Haan is launching a line of LunarGrand Chukkas at their SoHo store in NYC this week. The shoes sport a nubuck upper that is paired with Nike‘s Lunarlon sole for a combination of classic style and modern functionality. The ribbed soles are incredibly lightweight, deceptively comfortable and use micro-diamond tread for grip that is a cut above leather soles.

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While the wingtips come in suede and leather options, the chukkas are outfitted with a soft nubuck leather. Some nice details set the shoes apart, including the rawhide laces that are fitted with metal tips that must be unscrewed to change out laces. Developed for WWII British soldiers in North Africa and made iconic by the likes of Steve McQueen, the chukka has a rare personality that can transition from dress to casual.

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Another curious detail is the welted sole—a construction element practically unheard of in the sneaker world. Cole Haan’s elegant logo is printed on the footbed and can be found on the metal lace tips as well. Three eyelets—as opposed to the traditional two—have been given to the chukkas.

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Available in both men’s and women’s styles, the shoes come in eight total colorways. The women’s is equipped with a slightly higher ankle and curvier profile, though the two are otherwise comparable. Simplicity certainly dominates the look, although a small amount of broguing on the tongue reveals contrast leather beneath.

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The LunarGrand Chukka sells for $298 at Cole Haan Soho beginning Thursday, 3 May 2012. While currently unavailable online, we expect them to follow in the path of the wingtip predecessors and make it to the LunarGrand section of Cole Haan’s online shop.

Cole Haan Soho

128 Prince Street

New York, NY 10012


Tour Phare

Focus sur la Tour Phare, une œuvre architecturale de grande envergure, afin de relancer le quartier de La Défense. Un projet de l’architecte américain Thom Mayne de l’agence Morphosis. Avec 297 m de hauteur, elle sera la plus haute tour de France.



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Hövding Invisible Bicycle Helmet

Changing the way cyclists view safety and style with an innovative airbag hood

by L.S. Winkler

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In 2005, Swedish designers Anna Haupt and Terese Alstin began work on a joint masters thesis in response to new laws requiring cyclists under the age of 15 to wear a helmet while operating a bicycle. The new law left many Swedish cyclists wondering if helmet laws for adults would soon follow, so the duo behind Hövding used the public’s concern as an opportunity for groundbreaking innovation.

They began surveying people on the streets to understand exactly why urban cyclists were choosing not to wear a helmet. This research led Haupt and Alstin to believe the best helmet they could create would need to be invisible. The Hövding Invisible Helmet is a fabric collar containing a built-in airbag designed to inflate around a cyclist’s head on impact. The fabric shells of the collar are replaceable and meant to be changed based on weather and style, which makes for a stylish piece of safety gear that will save your hair and, most importantly, your life.

The process from design to device took seven years of intensive research and development, recording hundreds of hours of cycling footage and studying accident recreations with the Swedish Stunt Group and crash test dummies. Research has proven that shock absorption from an airbag is actually much greater than that of the polymer foam inside a traditional bicycle helmet. With this research data, Haupt and Alstin were able to acquire the proper government certifications needed to sell bicycle helmets.

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Hövding is the Swedish word for “chieftain” and the pioneers behind the name are proving to be leading visionaries in urban cycling. They were nominees for Design Product of the Year 2012 by The Design Museum in London and won a prestigious INDEX Award in 2011. We spoke with the Hövding designers about their product launch, a documentary film that’s in the works, and what to expect next.

When did the Hövding Invisible Bicycle Helmet officially launch and who is buying it?

November 2011 was the official release. So far, we have sold 600. It has been about 50/50 women to men and age has a very wide range—from 15 to about 65. There are varying reasons for their purchase but one thing we see in common is that people who buy the invisible helmet hate the ordinary bicycle helmet. Traditional bicycle helmets are bulky, hard to carry and store, and they mess up your hair. Some cyclists are primarily interested in the safety aspect while others are attracted to the technology behind it, and of course that is fashionable.

Have you heard back from any cyclists about accidents while wearing the invisible helmet?

There have been four or five accidents reported. Those cyclists sent back their helmet so we could collect data from the built-in black box. It records about 10 seconds of information on things like acceleration, angle of movements, the change in both acceleration and the cyclists positions right before and during the accident. This is extremely helpful for our research.

What is the projected life span of the invisible helmet?

The expiration date mainly refers to the airbag’s life span, which is the same as a car’s—10 years. The fabric around the airbag will break down a little faster, though. We assume people will want to replace their invisible helmet every three to four years, the same as you would do with ski gear and most other sporting equipment. In Sweden, we actually have insurance that covers the cost of buying a new helmet after a biker has been involved in an accident.

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How has the overall reception of the invisible helmet been?

Very good. Only in the beginning did we really hear a lot of “that is impossible” from older, potential investors who did not think we could make it happen. We’ve been invited to the capital to present and have had shared interest from members of the Swedish Royal Family. The helmet has been CE* marked, which is required to sell a cycling helmet in Europe. Some opinion suggests that the invisible helmet has the opportunity to be an influential export for Sweden.

You guys just finished filming a documentary with renowned Swedish filmmaker and journalist Fredrik Gertten. Whose idea was it to shoot a film?

The film is a response to American documentarian Morgan Spurlock‘s invitation to filmmakers around the world to capture innovators in action, making the impossible possible. At first we were a little hesitant to work with Morgan Spurlock, his films tend to involve controversy, but after we had the initial call we knew we wanted to be involved in the challenge. We are very flattered to be able to work with Fredrik and we actually get to see the first preview of the film this week!

What is the premise of the film and where can we expect to see it?

In all of Morgan Spurlock’s films you see the big guys against the small guys and in this documentary we are the small guys! Up against “the man”. While we were searching for investors early on, we were told many times that what we were attempting to do was impossible. We had set out to do just that, though, invent the impossible—an invisible bicycle helmet. It’s been seven years of research and development to get to this point. The documentary will be part of a series of films showcasing innovators from around the globe at film festivals in the States.

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Any innovations to the invisible helmet under way?

Yes, of course, but they are all secret!

Without revealing any secrets, can you tell us what’s next for Hövding?

We have many plans! Our focus will remain on cycling—the industry is very interesting and exciting right now. In the past, the industry advancements have been made for the serious, sporty, competitive cyclist but now we are seeing significant growth in urban cycling and its role in the environment with regards to pollution control even.

The goal is to have new shell designs twice a year. Ideally, working with the seasons—I personally would love to have one made with faux fur for the Winter. We will definitely pursue collaborations and limited editions with fashion labels as well as cycling brands. We’re a few years out from developing new products still. Right now we are getting Hövding off the ground. It takes a lot of time and money to get certifications for the helmet in each country so we’re focused on one geographic area at a time.

The Hövding Invisible Helmet is available online from $600.


TED-Ed

A new initiative for creating and sharing educational lessons reaches the traditional classroom and beyond

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For years TED has fulfilled their mission of spreading ideas and inspiration through conferences, media and research fellowships. Taking this a step further and in the direction of generations to come, today TED launches a new TED-Ed initiative to assist educators and students worldwide. Understanding the evolutionary role of video in the modern classroom (and beyond), the new TED-Ed site offers a structured avenue for repurposing content by allowing teachers to “flip” any video on YouTube—including but not limited to TED-Ed videos—into a sharable lesson ripe with quizzes, informational copy and attention keeping animations.

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Directing the initiative is Logan Smalley, a former TED Fellow with a background in documentary work. After starting in January 2011 and working on the TED Prize, Smalley sparked the TED-Ed program to rethink the traditional notion of teacher and student. To address this the new initiative aims to share educational lessons and inspiration with anyone willing to learn or teach, both inside and outside the physical classroom.

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Open to anyone, the thematically organized lessons can be taken without a login, although one is required to assign or track lessons. This proves valuable for both students and teachers as one can share and subsequently track participation and total student interactions with a specific lesson. With the customization platform teachers can adjust lessons and quizzes to meet their individual needs. This means adding, removing or changing quiz questions and informational copy. Once edited the lesson is given a unique URL to be shared freely.

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As the initiative is in its beta stage the majority of lessons offered at this point have been originally created by TED, but as it grows lessons created and adjusted by outside educators will eventually be uploaded for sharing. One can “flip” a TED-Ed video to customize the quiz questions and copy, or “flip” any video from YouTube to create an all new lesson. All lessons uploaded will first be cleared by a TED review board to ensure only the most effective, informational lessons reach the final audience.

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As participation grows TED-Ed online will as well, adding subcategories to their subjects and expanding upon the traditional taxonomies presented. And in keeping with the spirit of TED, signing up is free, allowing anyone and everyone to be a part of the evolution and education process. For more information or to experience the beautifully designed site yourself head over to TED-Ed online.


Bentley EXP 9 F SUV Concept

Our personal video tour with Senior Interior Designer, Darren Day

From idea to reality in a mere seven months, Bentley’s polarizing EXP 9 F SUV concept premiered at the Geneva auto show in March 2012. Darren Day, the Senior Interior Designer at Bentley Motors and one of the lead designers on the concept, walked us through the car’s impressive details in our exclusive video at its private New York debut.


New Research

Stephanie Gonot curates a slideshow projection as part of Month of Photography LA

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Month of Photography LA was introduced in 2009 to showcase contemporary photography across commercial, fine art and photojournalism with events, group shows and artist talks. Now in its fourth year, MOPLA 2012’s theme takes aim at the exploration of innovation and technology in the field. As the third part of the projection series Pro’jekt LA, photographer and curator Stephanie Gonot has selected a series of music-inspired images she calls “New Research”.

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“Much of the photography that excites me right now has to do with visual problem-solving, which fortunately fits perfectly into this year’s MOPLA theme,” says Gonot on the curation process. “When putting the show together I basically listened to a lot of Laurie Anderson, thought about science, technology and the process of doing research and looked through the portfolios of some of my favorite photographers working today.” The slideshow of single images, diptychs and screen grabs represents a conscious body of work chosen by Gonot to look and feel like her own research as a photographer.

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As an independent curator, Gonot feels her daily blog, “Please Excuse the Mess” is more like an “open-ended sketchbook of things I’ve been looking at, whereas I view projects like New Research as closed ‘pieces’ almost like a short film or an essay. In my photo blogs one image may relate to the next and that one to the next one after that, but there isn’t necessarily anything unifying about all the images when put together. ” While “New Research” includes pieces by 36 photographers and artists, Gonot has selected a body of work that she feels comes together once projected, using the experimental presentation method to create a cohesive experience.

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Included in “New Research” is work by Amy Lomard, David Zilber, Graham Walzer among others. The collection will be projected at the Standard West Hollywood from 7-10pm on 17 April, 2012 with Gonot’s close friend Chad Matheny of Emperor X providing a soundtrack to the show. For more information on the artists, the curator and the Pro’jekt LA series head over to Month of Photography LA online.


Dror for Tumi

The multidisciplinary designer re-imagines travel in a transformational line

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When designer Dror Benshetrit joined with Tumi to create a line of luggage, the unlikely marriage was bound to produce something unique. Rather than imagining this as a simple one-off collaboration, Tumi approached the project as their first line with a third-party designer, opening their heritage to Dror’s creative force. The brand’s commitment to sustainable design and perfectionism was well met with Dror’s hands-on, anything-is-possible approach. Working intimately with Tumi’s design director Victor Sanz, Dror set out to create 11 pieces that exemplified expansion, adaptability and refinement. On a recent visit to Studio Dror, we talked to Sanz and Dror to learn more about this ambitious undertaking.

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Dror’s multidisciplinary background is certainly impressive, but luggage remained a mystery to the designer when the project began, and Sanz stepped in to guide him through the unique dilemmas of luggage design. “Imagine you’re flying at 40,000 feet, and the cargo hold gets down to negative 40 degrees, and you land on the tarmac in Dubai and now the cargo hold is this oven,” postulates Sanz. “Materials have a tendency to do very strange things when they start going through these temperature ranges.”

While Tumi refused to produce anything that didn’t match their standards, the field was otherwise open, and Dror was essentially designing for himself as a seasoned traveler and long-time Tumi customer. He would often build in his workshop prototypes that Sanz then turned over to engineers. The thinking seemed to be that if a prototype could be created in Dror’s workshop, then Tumi could find a way to make the real thing.

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Acting as cornerstone to the project, the first endeavor was to create an expandable carry-on that could double in size. The sophisticated mechanism uses hinges on all four corners, which collapse to reduce the perimeter of the frame, thus allowing the walls of the bag to fold in on itself. This was a first for Tumi, and the process took years of development and testing to perfect. From a research perspective, the advantage was that this design would anticipate the way people will travel in the future.

“I think that we are all becoming more and more demanding customers,” says Dror. “Three years ago we didn’t walk around with these crazy devices that can access any application, any data, any information. Not to say that it’s good or bad—it’s just a reality of things…The transformation is really about the adaptability to our lifestyle.”

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While the form and mechanics of the collection vary between bags, the look remains consistent. “There were a lot of decisions that happened in this collection that started from logic and then became an aesthetic element,” explains Dror. “One of them is the creases. When you think about a sheet that has no strength, one of the easiest ways to give it strength is by giving it creases. So we gave the bag simple ridges, and we actually fell in love with the aesthetic.”

The lines and ridges that run throughout are reminiscent of the QuaDror system, and can be found on everything from polycarbonate shell to the leather handle to the foam liner of the laptop sleeve. The play of light creates unique viewing angles for the entire collection, keeping the look refined yet professional.

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While Tumi is justifiably known for their ballistic nylon fabric, Dror saw room for improvement. “Ballistic nylon is a pretty unbelievable fabric because it always looks fresh, it’s super strong, it’s really indestructable. But at the end of the day it’s nylon and it can feel a bit synthetic,” he admits. “We wanted to see how you can make it feel a bit more natural, a bit more organic, and I think that when you’re talking about organic, one of the main things is that the thing is a bit random. So we’ve taken different sizes of yarn and actually created a random order weave from both directions.” This process yielded a unique pattern and color that the team immediately embraced.

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The collection also features a custom clasp that is an intuitive and tactile take on the classic option. Each component was hand-machined and calibrated, a necessary expense that guaranties a higher performance than cast metal. The reason for going to these extremes is best summed up by Dror’s promise that “We don’t flash in the pan”. Creating a collection that was entirely new yet built to last a century required custom elements at every level. “Nothing is off the shelf,” adds Sanz.

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While the expanding hardcase started the process, some of the smaller, less complicated pieces proved the most troublesome to perfect. Starting with the question “How do you use a dopp kit?”, the team developed a travel kit that lies flat for stowage and stands up for use at the sink. Also suitable for placement over towel rack or the back of a chair, the dopp kit features a hidden compartment for passports, just one of the many details that make travel more enjoyable.

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When it came to the backpack, Dror admitted that he loved the practicality but didn’t necessarily think the style fit well into professional settings. In the end, utility won out. “These things are extensions of our bodies,” says Dror, explaining the need for comfort. “Sometimes you spend your entire day with a backpack and your just like attached to this thing physically.” To reconcile the issue, Dror hid the straps and gave users the option to carry the bag as a brief, tote or backpack.

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Other pieces benefitted from the research, but weren’t necessarily extremely complicated to create. The travel satchel was meant as an accommodating piece, expandable enough to carry whatever you throw its way. Commenting on the largest of the lot, a four-wheeled suitcase, Dror gushes, “It’s like driving a Bentley.” The benefit of fusing tech aspects with luxury details is evident throughout, from the hand-placed leather on handles to the specially fabricated plush mesh interior liner.

The Dror for Tumi Collection is available online and in stores.


Ian Ruhter

Our interview with the self-taught tintype photographer on the process, struggle and journey behind making the largest wet plate print ever

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The 2012 Palm Springs Photo Festival Portfolio Review is the nation’s largest photography review program for both commercial and fine art photographers, and it offers the rare opportunity for photographers to get their work in front of some of the world’s most important curators, publishers, agents and art dealers. It also offers the opportunity for photographers to connect with one another and discuss their work. I was excited to participate in this year’s Festival, and when I arrived on the very first day, I was stopped in my tracks by one of the most spectacular photographs I had seen in a long time. What I was looking at was the largest tintype I had ever seen—in fact, the largest tintype anyone had ever seen—taken by Ian Ruhter.

On the third day of the Festival, Ian posted a video onto his Facebook page called “Silver and Light” documenting the challenging process of making these pictures, which included building what’s essentially a custom camera that fills the entire bed of a small truck. The revelatory video immediately began to speed across the Internet, even making it onto the web pages of celebrities like Justin Timberlake. I spent a lot of the week talking to Ian about his work, and witnessing this humble guy’s reaction to the mounting interest in his journey as a photographer.

Why did you start working with wet-plate photography in the first place?

As my photography started to become more and more digitized, I began to miss the feeling of being in the darkroom. And then one day, I went to buy film, and I discovered that they weren’t even making the type of film I used to use. I felt I was beginning to lose touch with what it really meant to make a photograph. So I decided to take a step into a time-machine and make pictures the way they were made in the 1800s. I started doing my own research, and basically just ordered everything off the internet and started making plates in my loft in LA. Then I took a class with Will Dunniway, and that helped push me further.

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What drove you to try and make the largest tintype that had ever been made?

Once I had started to make some nice smaller plates, I began showing them to people. I started scanning them and sharing them as digital files. It was then that I realized I had lost the integrity of the photo again—I had just ended up returning to digital. I realized that if I was going to make pictures in a way I wanted, that I would have to take the process in an entirely different direction.

How much time went by between having the idea and creating your first successful large-scale image?

About a year and a half.

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Why didn’t you give up?

Even though everyone was telling me that it was impossible, I believed I could do it. Besides once I had bought the lens and the truck I needed to make the pictures, I was so heavily invested, that I felt I just couldn’t back out.

The type of lens you needed is incredibly rare, how did you find it?

I checked around and people were telling me that the lens I was looking for was close to impossible to find. They were coming up for auction every few years or something. I started looking on Ebay and within the first month of searching, I had found and bought the lens. I took it as a sign that this was something I was just meant to do.

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Can you describe what was actually involved in figuring out how to do what had never been done?

One of the most frustrating things about doing something that no one has ever done, is that there was no one to call and ask for help. This really became a process of trial and error. I mean, I barely even graduated high school, and here I was forced to be a scientist. I had to create design and build models and do experiments. I had to build a camera big enough to stand in. I had to figure out how to get these chemicals onto such a huge plate of metal. And to make it even more difficult, I decided that I was going to go out on location and shoot landscapes, so I couldn’t even control the environment. I had to start everything from scratch.

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Now that you’ve accomplished your primary goal, where do you want this to go?

I started with landscapes, and I want to continue to tell the story of the American landscape, but I also want to tell the story of the people who are shaped by the land. Like Richard Avedon‘s pictures taken in the West. I want to drive my truck out into America. Now that I have the camera and figured out the process, it’s time to create.

Perhaps even more than the pictures you’ve taken, people around the world are reacting to the journey you showed us in your video. It must be amazing to be seen as this inspiration for people who want to follow their dreams?

It’s completely overwhelming to have so many people understand and be inspired by my story. Even if it’s not the actual photo that is inspiring people, even if they’re becoming emotional about the process—connecting with people is still the most exciting part of being an artist.


2013 Boxster

The first comprehensive redesign of the entry-level Porsche since its introduction in 1996
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With a welcome redesign, the 2013 Boxster is once again the sexy gateway model to the rush of owning a Porsche. The brand unveiled the car’s most comprehensive design overhaul since its introduction in 1996 this week at the NY International Auto Show, showing off a 2013 that builds on the iconic 550 Spyder to be lighter, lower, wider and more powerful than before.

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The 2013 amplifies the thrill of driving a mid-engine car with a body made from a composite aluminum and steel that reduces weight without compromising strength. The rear wing deploys automatically as in previous iterations but is now flanked by LED taillights. Under the hood the new model’s flat-six engine is available in both a base and upgraded S. This divide reveals output differences of 265hp vs 315hp and a top speed of 164mph and 173mph in favor of the S.

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To improve handling the new Boxster is now equipped with Porsche Torque Vectoring (PTV), a helpful bit of technology that redistributes torque by internally controlling braking on rear wheels, making the Boxster even more of a roadster than ever. The 2013 Porsche Boxster will be available Summer 2012 with a base sticker price of $49,500.


ThinBike

Fold-up pedals and a quick release stem reduce this ride’s size by half

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Living in the cramped quarters of the typical city-dweller, Graham Hill founded LifeEdited, a website focused on reducing one’s non-necessities to live a more efficient life. His latest space-saving trick comes in the form of ThinBike, announced today at the PSFK Conference. This modified fixed gear features fold-up MKS pedals and a Speedlifter quick-release stem to position the handle bars flush with the top tube, reducing the bike’s width from 21 to just six inches.

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The modified Schindelhauer Viktor, topped off with a Gates carbon belt drive train to eliminate the threat of greasy pant legs and ghostly white components for a stealth ride, costs $1,800. If that sounds steep, Hill points out that the space-saving MSK pedals and Speedlifter adjustable stem can be added a la carte to any ride for around $200.