Best of CH 2010: Top Five Retail Visions

Singaporean bags in Amsterdam, architectural shoes in NYC, food as news in Pittsburgh and more in our 2010 retail review

Our round-up presents brick-and-mortar stores that took advantage of space and place to give customer experiences that went beyond just shopping and eating.

retail-bestof2.jpg

Melrose Market

Seattle’s Melrose Market opened in Capitol Hill boasting 21,000-square-feet of space as home to almost a dozen retailers including Sitka & Spruce, Rain Shadow Meats, Calf and Kid and Still Liquor. With a focus on locally sourced, independent and organic goods, the beautiful building that once produced auto parts now attracts a clientele looking for a more updated version of Pike’s Place.

retail-bestof5.jpg retail-bestof55.jpg
Property Of

The owners of Singaporean bag label Property Of championed their coffee shop roots when conceiving the plans for their flagship store on one of the busiest streets in Amsterdam. Rather than launch a traditional boutique, they instead opened a cafe serving up Seattle’s Stumptown Coffee with a shop stocking their goods alongside an array of specialty magazines and books.

retail-bestof1.jpg

Dark Shop

United Nude’s Manhattan store Dark Shop is reminiscent of a nightclub, with its dark interior and striking LED wall lighting up the shoes on display. The future-tech interior was designed by creative director Rem D. Koolhaas, and is perfectly aligned with the brand’s vision of architecturally-inspired footwear.

retail-bestof3.jpg

Conflict Kitchen

An art installation with a retail side, Conflict Kitchen is a project in Pittsburgh that aims to educate the public through food. Calling attention to countries the United States is currently in conflict with, its current incarnation is Bolani Pazi, which serves Afghani turnovers. All food is wrapped in paper printed with information and facts about that country, such as its traditional customs and the U.S.’ involvement.

retail-bestof4.jpg

Converse SoHo

Converse adapted its extensive history as a brand into its second store, located in NYC’s SoHo neighborhood. With the world’s biggest selection of Converse shoes, there’s a pick-up window that’s particularly useful for those who already know what they want and a wall featuring an American flag installation made from its iconic Chuck Taylors. Things here are as straightforward as the m.o. that its legions of fans have helped shaped—be unique and yourself. To that end, the decoration is subtle enough without the need to drum up false hype.


John Kestner

One of MIT Media Lab’s brightest minds bringing the physical back into digital worlds

provwallet1.jpg tableau1.jpg

Being a graduate student at MIT’s Media Lab is generally a solid prerequisite for assuming someone has brains and John Kestner is no exception. His two new projects explore relationships with digital media, attempting to anchor online interactions in the physical world.

Kestner’s project Tableau harkens back to when communication and social connections took place in person with a conversation, or high-five. Tableau, which looks like your standard handsome nightstand, connects the high tech with the classic feeling of receiving a letter from a friend at camp. Essentially the device is an Internet-enabled printer and scanner that connects to a Twitter feed. When a photo appears in your feed, the Tableau prints it out and drops it into the drawer to be collected at the user’s leisure. If you want to send a message, you simply put it in the drawer and the Tableau scans it and publishes in to your feed. Constructed from reclaimed materials, it only uses Zink paper, a printing medium that requires no printer cartridges. The Tableau can currently be seen on exhibit at the Saint Etienne International Design Biennale.

Kestner’s other project, which involved some fellow Media Lab cohorts, he calls the Proverbial Wallet. Based around the disconnect between the user and the intangible numbers of a bank account, the Proverbial Wallet interprets numerical data into a physical stimulus using Bluetooth technology. Each of the three prototypes serve to alert the user of different scenarios they might encounter financially.

The Bumblebee contains a vibrating motor. Every time your bank processes a transaction, the wallet will buzz. If your wallet buzzes and you aren’t handing your credit card to a cashier or its not time to auto-pay your bills then it is probably a good idea to check for fraudulent activity.

Designed to protect the user from themselves, the Mother Bear wallet becomes easier to open when you’re flush, locking itself up like a clam when your balance gets low. You can also program it to abide by a monthly budget to discourage unnecessary spending.

The Peacock is ideal for anyone who wants to showboat how many zeros were on their last check. The wallet will swell or shrink depending on your account balance. If you deposit that fat check on Friday before going out for the night the Peacock will reflect your good fortune and potentially attract some lovely companions.

Both of Kestner’s projects take an interesting look at how we relate to our media and our money. Most modern users take for granted the giant virtual gap between information and the physical self. Kestner’s work remind us how communication used to take place, the value of physically interacting with the virtual world and why all of that might be really important.


Conflict Kitchen

Pittsburgh’s take-out dining concept serves food from countries in conflict with the U.S.

by Ikechukwu Onyewuenyi

conflictkitchen_1.jpg

Who thought international disputes could leave a sweet, mouthwatering aftertaste? Well the minds behind Conflict Kitchen—Jon Rubin, Dawn Weleski and John Pena see the savory in skirmish, intending to whet palettes and satisfy appetites while educating the city of Pittsburgh on the tenets of conflict. A truly novel (and tasty) installation, the experiment is a take-out restaurant meets public art project, serving food from countries that the United States is at loggerheads with, although overt combat is not a prerequisite.

conflictkitchen_bolani.jpg

For Conflict Kitchen, food serves as the main cultural communicator—a “seduction for engagement [that] opens up a space of conviviality and comfort for people,” as Rubin puts it. However, the initiative goes beyond comestibles, intending to spur conversations about the social contexts of the conflicts within these nations. Rubin envisioned a space that “could not only add some culinary diversity to the city, but, more importantly, could create a public platform for a more empathic discussion about the places and cultures that many people are not familiar with outside of the relatively narrow and polarizing lens of the mainstream media.”

conflictkitchen_3.jpg conflictkitchen_2a.jpg

Currently called “Bolani Pazi,” today’s iteration of Conflict Kitchen looks to Afghanistan, but the country rotates every four months and I had the chance to check it out when it was representing Iran. Taking on the name Kubideh Kitchen in reference to the staple Persian dish, the restaurant served kubideh—ground beef duly spiced with turmeric and cinnamon, garnished with aromatic basil and mint, and served atop freshly baked barbari bread. “We like to work with simple street food; something that you could make and get easily regardless of your social position within a culture,” says Rubin. “The draw of our food has opened up a curiosity amongst our customers that leads to conversations about politics that might not happen otherwise.”

Conversations really did spill forth from each bite of the kubideh, as the meals at the concept come wrapped in paper printed with opinions and facts about each culture, in this case with bits about the importance of tea and the sui generis New Year custom of Nowuz. Just the other day I shared an extra kubideh wrapper with a close friend of mixed Persian heritage who was both enamored and touched by the words and efforts of Conflict Kitchen, exclaiming excitedly that she was going to share this with her mother. That, like the heady thinking behind it, goes far deeper than the meal itself.


Jaguar C-X75

Elegance, power and sustainability combined in Jaguar’s 75th anniversary concept car
C-X75 REAR.jpg

First debuted at the Paris Auto Show and more recently presented in LA, Jaguar’s C-X75 concept car is a celebration of design, innovation and class. Loosely based on the classic XJ13 concept the C-X75 exhibits the power and elegance of a supercar while showcasing cutting edge technology that makes it super efficient and environmentally friendly.

C-X75_SIDE.jpg XJ13.jpg

Each wheel on the C-X75 is driven by an individual 145kW electric motor which are all powered by one large 19.6kWh lithium ion battery. This system delivers all wheel drive and promises to provide extra control and traction as well as intense torque (0-62 in 3.4 seconds). On a single charge, which takes 6 hours from a conventional household plug to achieve, the C-X75 can travel up to 68 miles with zero emissions.

C-X75_DOOROPEN.jpg

For extended range Jaguar has utilized some fantastic aeronautical engineering technology by equipping the vehicle with two 70kW gas powered micro turbines. The turbines can used to quickly recharge the internal battery or can be used in conjunction with the battery to achieve the cars top speed of 205 mph. If you plan on taking a more leisurely drive the turbine charged batteries provide the car with a theoretical range of 560 miles.

C-X75 ABOVE.jpg

The vehicle has an complex ventilation system incorporated into the exterior design to cool the micro turbines. There are no side-view mirrors, instead cameras built into the back feed directly to a screen inside the cabin. The beautiful angles highlight the slick hyper aerodynamic look and are complimented by the beautiful 21 and 22 inch aluminum wheels. Up to 50% of the the light weight aluminum used in constructing the car is recycled and increases the performance and economy.

C-X75_DISPLAY.jpg

As with previous Jaguar models the interior is designed completely around the driver. The seats are fixed into the frame so upon entering the vehicle a flip of a switch brings the entire steering wheel, instrument panel and pedal box toward the driver for optimal positioning. The aeronautical theme is continued in the cabin, the started switch is positioned on an overhead control panel and the gear shift is modeled after the throttle control from a fighter jet. The information panels are also air craft inspired with a 3D simulated heads up display. Never to be out classed Jaguar added a nice analog detail, a custom designed watch from Bremont that mounts into the center console and is wound by the stopping and starting movements of the car.


Five Chair & Ten Tables

Conceptual artist Roy McMakin’s funny furniture gets a hometown show
roymak1.jpg

Roy McMakin‘s furniture designs aren’t the first to take on conventional assumptions about the distinctions between art and objects. As a trained architect, it’s not surprising that the interdisciplinary artist’s skillful manipulation of details rivals that of a legend like Ettore Sottsass. But where Sottsass used his painstakingly deliberate compositions to playfully reinvent ideas about what furniture can be, McMakin’s studied work makes wry observations about what furniture is. As the press release for his current show “Five Chairs & Ten Tables” puts it, McMakin’s absurdist work “emphasize[s] the sculptural quality of utilitarian objects, resulting in works both awkward and irreverent, exuding a presence simultaneously monastic and mischievous.”

roymak2.jpg

This new exhibit sees the Seattle-based artist (he was born in the rural town of Lander, Wyoming) showing in his adopted city at Ambach & Rice. With an installation that consists of a series of furniture mismatched in shape and appearing slightly unfinished or off—cushions are askew, tabletops pitch too far over their pedestals—the work introduces a tension between notions of art and commerce. Here, the chairs and tables perform as “actors suspicious of the role in which they were cast.”

roymak3.jpg roymak4.jpg

For more of McMakin’s explorations of emotion, scale, craft and function to explore how objects contain meaning, see Rizzoli’s retrospective book “When Is A Chair Not A Chair,” which includes almost all of his prolific output over the past 25 years. As McMakin explains it, “I see the job of an artist as that of a philosopher of visual experience.”

Five Chairs & Ten Tables” is currently on view through 5 December 2010 at Ambach & Rice. See more images of the exhibit in the gallery below.


The Directionals

Four tweaked takes on menswear from New York Fashion Week

by Camille Hunt

menswearss11.jpg

Steadily emerging from the shadows of their flashier female counterparts, some of our favorite menswear collections that hit runways last week in New York were an array of impeccably-tailored ensembles, each continuing to probe different spins on mens dress codes—what fashion editors call “directional.” From Siki Im’s modern Arabian look to a literally criminal interpretation of Americana by N.Hoolywood, the collections profiled below stand out for conceptual and innovative designs, while remaining wearable (depending on just how futuristic you dress). Pictured above (from left to right): Bespoken, General Idea, N.Hoolywood, Siki Im.

bespoken1.jpg

Bespoken

While you wouldn’t be wrong for bristling at the name, the latest collection from brothers James, Liam and Sam Fayed successfully blends their sartorial experience (their father Ali Al-Fayed owns the British suit company Turnbull & Asser) with modern elements for Bespoken. Suits, trench coats and double-breasted cardigans come expertly tailored, yet have a slightly disheveled look they describe as “Saville Row meets rock ‘n’ roll”—i.e. it’s a wardrobe for aspiring lil’ moguls, befitting of the founders themselves. A series of shirts, ties and pocket squares were also made in collaboration with their family’s iconic brand.

general-idea1.jpg

General Idea

General Idea designer Bemsuk Choi’s fourth New York Fashion Week collection was all about “the journey back to the familiar,” which in his hands looks like a vision of future ’80s nostalgia. Crisp basics preceded modern silhouettes in a color palate that progressed from all-white to pops of bright red, brushstroke graffiti print and multicolored paint splashes on jackets, pants and shorts, with materials ranging from cotton and tencel to linen and even polyester.

nhollywood1.jpg

N. Hoolywood

“Police Picture,” Japan-born Daisuke Obana’s appropriately-named spring collection for N.Hoolywood, took cues from the American convicts of the 1930s with shirts, jackets and hats in thin and thick stripes, gingham and printed denim. The buzzed-about presentation had attendees peer through glass windows where street-casted models appeared in a jailhouse-style lineup.

siki1.jpg

Siki Im

Siki Im was an architect before shifting to fashion and working under both Karl Lagerfeld and Helmut Lang. His latest xenophopia-inspired collection channels an urban sheik vibe, with knee-length linen tunics, pants with dropped crotches and caps made with washed and dyed silks to resemble desert headdresses.


Replica

Wrist watch-inspired jewelry from Swedish goldsmith Göran Kling
gorankling1.jpg

A mix of conceptual design and traditional craftsmanship, Swedish designer Göran Kling recently released his first commercial collection, Replica.

In an “homage to exclusive wrist watches, Swiss craft skills and cheap knock-offs,” Kling integrates the intricate detailing and fine metalwork of classic timepieces into effortlessly sophisticated bracelets.

gorankling3.jpg

The recent graduate of Konstfack College of Art and Design applies his studies to his background as a goldsmith for a collection that shows a strong appreciation for the sentimental value of jewelry and a talent for modern design.

gorankling2.jpg

Many of the pieces in the new collection play on the standard wristwatch build, with an artistic pendant replacing the clock. Some pieces clearly herald standard watches while others interpret the pattern more liberally, with multiple bands or textured metal pieces in place of the watch face.

You can get the easily wearable and innovative designs by contacting Göran directly, with prices typically set around €300 per piece.


Dead Meat Clothing

deadmeat-1.jpg deadmeat-1-1.jpg

Formed by Giovanni De Pol and six other young people living in Italy between Modena and Milan, Dead Meat clothing comes from a sort of Italian countryside version of a Warholian Factory with ontology as a main focus.

Seemingly more art oriented and consciously philosophical than market-driven, the resulting collection of graphics, comics, tees and other clothing reflects an intellectually pensive team focused on producing a high quality, stylish assortment of goods.

deadmeat-4.jpg deadmeat-3.jpg

“I sell thousands of pieces of clothing and I diffuse my own personal verb. I, more or less, influence people. I don’t want to be overly serious because I really trust in what Pasolini called “The Depth of The Surface” but, you know, the world needs to follow an Idea of Equilibrium. I just would like to be a part of it,” De Pol explains.

Provocation? Narcissism? Culture? Their quest for equilibrium is subtly prevalent, expressed in their manifesto and by kitschy black-and-white drawings, collages of Kurt Cobain and Hitler printed on tees, Rorschach test-inspired military jackets, and by perfectly knitted holes and scars in pricey sweaters. Keeping the best hidden, the brand carefully prints the most artistic and experimental images on the inside of the clothes.

deadmeat-6.jpg deadmeat-5.jpg

Dead Meat sells at an impressive roster of stores worldwide, including United Arrows in Tokyo, The Library in London and Florence’s Luisa via Roma. Prices begin around $125 for T-shirts.


Odeur Spring/Summer 2010: Light

odeur-intro.jpg

Founded in 2006 around a conceptual branding approach “seeking to broaden the opinion of what design really means,” Odeur uses “a unique scent and its molecular structure as a replacement for the traditional, word-based logotype.” The upshot, clothes fragranced with an airy, light smell comparable to CK One and a pyramid-shaped symbol, sets the tone for forward-thinking looks that, this season, incorporate subtly odd details like boat-necked and pleated tees.

odeur-spring2.jpg odeur-10.jpg

Inspired by “sun faded lines and transparent gossamer surfaces,” the Spring/Summer 2010 collection uses a washed-out palate of blues and grays in jersey, building on their last season for a series of oversize tees and deeply pleated bottoms that play to an emerging men’s silhouette. This new proportion—exaggerated tops paired with slimmer pants—works equally well for (and is perhaps inspired by) women.

odeur-11.jpg odeur-spring5.jpg

Odeur sells online from Oki-Ni (which we’re excited to report now also carries P.A.M.), starting at £75. See more images after the jump.

odeur-5-5-jump.jpg odeur-5-jump.jpg
odeur-4-jump.jpg odeur4-4jump.jpg

odeur-spring1.jpg

odeur-4.jpg odeur-7.jpg


Fax Ex-Machina

FaxPortrait.jpg

To get around Brazil’s convoluted customs procedures and expensive tax laws that govern importing and exporting art, Brazilian collective Autista and British gallery KK Outlet turned to the fax machine to transport art across oceans for a new show called “Ex-Fax Machina.”

Fax2.jpg FaxArtistLine.jpg

At last Thursday’s opening Brazilian artists Ramon Martins, Eduardo Recife, Elisa Sassi and Carlos Dias made drawings and faxed them to London’s KK Outlet Gallery, while U.K.-based artists Andrew Clark, Billie Jean, Mcbess and Jimmy Turrell faxed their completed drawings to Gallery Pop in São Paulo. Flaunting Brazil’s 50% tax on any cultural item sent or received (the strict rules have prevented both NYC’s Met and MoMA from lending pieces in the past), the pieces now hang on both galleries’ walls through 26 March 2010.

ex-machina-fax-5.jpg

To further demonstrate their point, KK Outlet installed a fax machine dedicated to receiving faxes from all over the world. Select faxes will be included in the show and they’ll accept them (at +44 (0) 207 739 0396) through the end of the show.<

FaxHang.jpg FaxWall1.jpg

Artists’ faxes sell for about $45 in England and $28 in Brazil.

ex-machina-fax-7.jpg ex-machina-fax-6.jpg

Faxes by the public will also be for sale for $15, which will be donated to non-profit group Viva Rio.