Roy Denim in the Making

See the manufacturing process at Cone Mills

Generally considered the arbiter of denim, Self Edge recently took a trip to Greensboro, North Carolina to visit the world’s oldest denim mill and document the making of Roy‘s new denim. Designed from warp to weft by Roy Slaper himself, the custom denim also marks the first unsanforized fabric produced by Cone Mills for anyone in more than 60 years.

The insightful short shows the fabric come to life as huge scans of simultaneously selected thread move through the denim production process and into massive vats of 100% pure indigo dye. Whipped around like salt water taffy the denim strands are eventually woven together to form brilliantly dark raw denim weighing in at 14.5oz per square yard—which actually swells to 16.25oz after a hot water soak. Described by Self Edge as simply a “tough fabric,” the new Roy denim is dyed with the darkest indigo Cone to produce a unique wash that’ll only evolve with age.

The new run of Roy jeans have been tweaked to improve fit and will be available in an adjusted version of Roy’s straight and slim fits. Look to Self Edge in San Francisco, Los Angeles and New York City this Saturday, 24 March 2012 when the latest Roy jeans will go on sale at 12pm in each respective time zone and online at 9am (PDT).


Keen-Wah Decadence

Superfoods and cocoa nibs in a guilt-free bar
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Combining superfood favorite quinoa with delicious organic coca nibs, Venice Beach-based YogaEarth presents Keen-Wah Decadence. The nutritious bar offers yogis and other health-minded people a gluten-free, vegan, non-GMO snack on the go and, in addition to quinoa, includes cacao, chia seeds, almonds, almond butter, coco nectar and Himalayan sea salt, as well as protein powder made from brown rice. The fully organic concoction doses out high levels of protein, omega-3 and antioxidants.

The dark chocolate coating lends a sweet edge to the savory health food core, while chopped almonds and crispy quinoa give texture and a bit of satisfaction. To support the claim of healthy ingredients, one bar of Keen-Wah Decadence has 12% of your daily protein and 18% of your recommended fiber intake.

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YogaEarth set out to provide yoga practitioners with products that complemented the health-centric lifestyle. Focusing on superfoods, the company reached out to the yoga community—notably strong around Venice Beach—to develop a line of healthful and delicious products. The grassroots effort was initially carried in yoga studios, and is gearing up to launch at Whole Foods. We loved the “Chocolate Chia” flavor of Keen-Wah Decadence, and are eagerly awaiting the release of “Coconut Almond” and “Cayenne Cinnamon”.

A 12-pack of Keen-Wah Decadence is available from YogaEarth for $35.


Tap into Austin 2012: Sub Pop

Behind the scenes with the famous indie label and what to expect at their SXSW Showcase

In partnership with MasterCard, on 16 March 2012 we’ll be streaming the Sub Pop Showcase live from SXSW in Austin to parties in NYC, LA, DC, SF and Chicago. In anticipation of the showcase we shot this video at Sub Pop’s headquarters in Seattle to get to know the label a little better.

Visit Tap into Austin 2012 to catch the Sub Pop Showcase livestream on Friday night and learn more about what’s happening in Austin during SXSW.

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Alpha Wave

Ethereal neon and abstract forms in new work by Evan Gruzis

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Opening tomorrow at Duve Berlin, an exhibition of new work by Evan Gruzis explores the interstices of waking and dreaming life. “Alpha Wave” derives its aesthetic from the afterimage effect—the “burning” of an image on ones vision after the original image has disappeared. Gruzis—a young artist whose resume already boasts work in the Whitney Museum Collection and a solo show at Deitch—presents a series of hauntingly minimal works on paper and through video.

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While his past work bears the mark of nostalgia for Hollywood of the 1980s—a byproduct of his time spent in LA—this collection marks significant growth. Gruzis ditches pop elements in favor of a more streamlined look, going beyond gloss and neon to convey the “alpha wave” narrative throughout the work. While he made a name for himself based on his masterful employment of india ink, the artist has turned mainly to watercolor in this collection. Gruzis uses a liberal amount of water in the creation of his gradients, which are painted on “arches aquarelle” paper. Stretching the paint, he slowly builds layers to create his transitions. The photorealistic effect looks to be the product of a neon light show or early digital design. In addition to watercolor, Gruzis employs graphite and acrylic into most of the works that are included in Alpha Wave.

One of the standout works, “Movie”, is a purple canvas of watercolor, gouache, india ink and spray paint. Highlighted with pinpoints of star-like specks, the somber, glowing piece conveys a unique effect that serves as testament to Gruzis’ curious experimentation.

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The exhibition also includes “TV”, an abstract video work of projected LED lights. Interpretive and hypnotic, the installation carries Gruzis’ dream-like sensibility. Gruzis first made his way onto our radar last year in his collaboration with Rafael de Cardenas called Exotic Beta, though this exhibition certainly sets him apart in his own right.

“Alpha Wave” will be on view at Duve Berlin through 20 April 2012.

Duve Berlin

9 March – 20 April 2012

Invalidenstr. 90

Berlin, DE 10115


Melanie Willhide

The LA-based photographer talks about her latest show, “To Adrian Rodriguez, with Love”
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Sometimes life, as with art, takes an unforeseen turn down a path we would have never intentionally traveled, forcing us to see things differently. LA-based photographer Melanie Willhide seems to have experienced the phenomenon more often than one may like, but rather than be derailed, Willhide has been inspired. When a fire destroyed many of her belongings some years ago, she created the intensely fragile “Sleeping Beauties” series. Now, her latest body of work is named for the perpetrator that robbed her home. “To Adrian Rodriguez, with Love” is now showing at NYC’s Von Lintel Gallery and, after viewing the exhibition we felt compelled to learn more about the artist’s serendipitous inspiration.

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As it happened, Willhide’s laptop was stolen by a burglar, but then recovered by the police. She struggled to retrieve the wiped contents—two bodies of work, family pictures and her own wedding album—but what files she could save were corrupted. Rather than lament the loss, the artist was intrigued by the fragmented photographs and learned how to replicate the “language” used to distort them. As a result, she was able to generate more using vintage photographs and other sourced material she’d collected for visual reference. She created complementary images, bringing about what Willhide calls a “mish-mashed body of work” that she feels represents what had been stolen from the machine, and even more so, the life affected by the incident.

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The bizarre duplicities and mind-bending effects achieved in “To Adrian Rodriguez, with Love” mark a stylistic departure from Willhide’s earlier work, introducing a theme that is likely to continue. “Utilizing the language of the corrupted files has a lot of potential,” says Willhide. “There’s something really powerful about seeing the delicacy of the digital file.”

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By revealing how she creates the optical illusion in her photographs, Willhide champions the art form of digital photography as it embraces programs like Photoshop in a non-traditional sense. “It requires me to think of Photoshop in terms of how it shouldn’t be used,” says Willhide. Shifting concern from the authenticity of an image’s subject to the image as a whole, she feels, gives photographers an “opportunity to come out against the real”—a sentiment suggesting parallels to surrealist movements across other mediums.

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Melanie Willhide‘s conceptually driven “To Adrian Rodriguez, with Love” will be on show at NYC’s Von Lintel Gallery through 24 March, 2012.


Handsome Coffee Roasters

A sneak peak at the new flagship store in LA’s downtown Arts District

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For the last few months, the corner of 5th and Mateo in the Arts District of downtown Los Angeles has been abuzz with activity as the WoodSmithe team puts the finishing touches on Handsome Coffee Roasters‘ flagship store. Handsome has made a splash in the specialty coffee world since they announced that Tyler Wells and Chris Owens would be teaming up with World Barista Champion Michael Phillips to launch the coffee company of their dreams.

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With the space nearly ready to open its doors, the collaboration between the roasters and the builders—who also happen to be neighbors—seems like a natural one. Also in on the operation is Na Young Ma’s Proof Bakery, whose pastries will be served alongside the coffee.

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We met with Owens to see the space coming together and talk more about their process for sourcing and roasting. “Every roaster is going to color the coffee in some way,” he says. “You bring your style to it. The dynamic, interesting, sweet, fruity coffees that we tend to buy are complimented by the roast style. I want to start thinking of it as a partnership between mother-nature and me as a roaster.” Summing up their simple philosophy, Owens adds, “We source beans responsibly and sustainably. We are going to buy delicious coffees, prepare them well, and try not to mess that up. Really, that’s it, I want to get people excited about coffee.”

Handsome’s Tyler Wells and WoodSmithe’s Nathanael Balon also sat down with us to talk about the new ultimate custom-designed coffee bar.

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The inevitable question, where did the name Handsome come from?

Wells: We went around and around about names for more than two months. Basically our whole aesthetic and philosophy is about way back when, when things were made by hand. Things were quality, a recall to the days of really cool equipment like sewing machines. I was thinking about old bread ovens because I like baking. One morning I was half asleep in bed and it hit me, Handsome Coffee. We are Handsome Coffee Roasters. I texted Chris: “Handsome Coffee Roasters?” He texted back “expletive… yes!” It was perfect. It’s a little bit tongue and cheek, but as the aesthetic builds and as the brand gets bigger, you get it.

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How did you find this location in the Arts District?

Wells: The Arts District was our first choice. Mike was still in Chicago but we had agreed to terms. Chris and I would drive around this neighborhood at least one day a week, but had a hard time finding anything. We met Carl from Creative Spaces. He asked us to describe our dream: Arts District, corner, bow truss, skylights, 3,500 square feet, clearspan, 220 power, three-phase. He called me at 10 o’clock that night and said we were going to see a space at nine in the morning. It was almost fate. When you get to the Arts District you start to understand the community down here. It is not as dense as some of the rest of Los Angeles, but quality-wise it is 100%. Every person down here is doing something awesome.

Nathanael, how does the Handsome Coffee fit into what you do at Woodsmithe?

Balon: I think it made sense on a number of levels. Primarily the local. We are local. This is my neighborhood. This is where I live. This is where I work. I have a built-in high value for new businesses and the types of businesses that are going to take the time to really create a great product and offer it here in my neighborhood. Right off the bat, I started to understand the level of quality coffee they were going to bring into the neighborhood. These guys had language for what they wanted to create. What we do is translate that language into form. We want to work with brands that have great stories and are interested in doing great work. The fact that they are doing it blocks away from our office and shop is just perfect.

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How would you describe the WoodSmithe aesthetic?

Balon: I am always striving for simplicity and honesty in design and an exposure of as many of the elements as possible. Our aesthetic is typically pretty strong, fairly masculine with clean lines and simplistic forms. We purposely put as little as possible in the space to be able to expose as much of the process as we could. You can see green coffee in the back on the pallets in bags, and we put in a huge glass wall to showcase the roasting process. Then, you are staring at a finished product.

How did you design the area for the Probat roaster?

Balon: The Probat roaster is an amazing piece of machinery. Its simplistic, strong, and clean. It’s a beautiful machine. Our goal there was to take more of a museum or art gallery approach. Let this unit stand-alone in a clean space and just be beautiful.

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The wall by the roaster is made from white subways tiles and along the hallway wood ones. What are those made from?

Balon: The wood subway tile is made from one of Handsome’s core materials…aged Maple. We utilized Handsome’s brand imagery through laser etching to overlay a wall-paper like pattern over the wood layout.

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What’s on the menu?

Wells: It reads like this: brewed coffee, espresso, espresso with milk. Three ounces, six ounces, 10 ounces. That’s it. It’s pretty straightforward because if you took a poll of the people who come in here and asked, “What do you think a cappuccino is?” everyone has a different idea. It will strip away the stigma and attitude that often comes with serving great coffee.

Are you going to frown at people who pull out a sugar packet?

Wells: No, but they will have to pull out their own sugar packet because we won’t have any. It’s not because we are anti-sugar. I have one hell of a sweet tooth, but I don’t want sugar in my coffee. This coffee is fantastic and it does not need sugar. We have probably served about six or seven thousand cups of Handsome coffee at this point. Almost invariably people come back and say, “this does not even need sugar.”

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What do you say to the people who might ask, what’s all the fuss?
It’s just a drink.

Wells: That’s actually fine. Crappy coffee is just a drink. Chris’ sentiment is if you want to opt in, then we’ll nerd out with you. But if you just want a drink that is good, that’s fine too, just come in to order a coffee without having to hear about every detail. On its base level it should be user friendly. That is the whole idea of the space. You come in you know exactly where to order. Someone is right there.

To learn more about how Handsome’s flagship store came to be, check out this video of the building process.

Handsome Coffee Roasters

582 Mateo Street

Los Angeles, CA 90013


Rachel Craven Textiles at Heath Ceramics

Hand-finished linens in geometric stylings from an LA artisan
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Textile designer Rachel Craven works out of her home in the Los Angeles suburb of Angelino Heights, a historic neighborhood that provides the perfect setting for creating her Southwestern-style, handmade printed pillows, tablecloths and linens.

Craven, who cites influences from Agnes Martin to Marimekko, grew up in New York with parents who were both painters. After studying at The School of Visual Arts and working as a fashion stylist, she moved to LA to transition back to visual art.

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Now, her hand-block-printed Italian linens are being sold at the Heath Los Angeles Studio & Showroom. The geometric “Circles, Arrows and Dots” collection provides a crisp backdrop for Heath’s simple mid-century pottery.

“My Circles, Arrows and Dots collection marries my attraction to bright geometric pattern with my love for the tactile qualities of linen-combined I find the effect vibrant, comforting and subtly seductive,” says Craven. Heath Gallery Director Adam Silverman was thrilled to bring in the designer’s textiles along the classic ceramics, and “highlight a local artist whose design-focused textiles complement Heath’s dinnerware at the table.”

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Craven’s textiles are also available at deKor in Echo Park and she co-organizes the Echo Park Craft Fair with Beatrice Valenzuela, a Los Angeles artist collective, which will be making an appearance Beautiful Dreamers in Brooklyn, New York later this month.

Heath Ceramics

7525 Beverly Blvd


Los Angeles, CA 90036


Ignoble

Minimalist black backpacks designed and made in LA

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Solid construction, clean lines and a no-frills approach to design drive LA-based bag brand, Ignoble. Centered on the assertion that the black backpack represents the true “essential carryall for the modern man,” Ignoble makes their own with a focus on thoughtful design, style and personality. The current collection comprises five distinct versions, ranging from an oversized canister pack to a center-zip cocoon silhouette.

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We got our hands on the Lenore Capsule Backpack, a multipurpose top-loader built for everyday use. The mid-back handle allows the wearer to carry it on the back or in hand as a duffel. Inside the large, double-zippered main compartment you’ll find ample room for your gear, but no interior pockets or bells and whistles. The minimalist interior allows the bag to compress easily, making it nicely packable for travel.

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The Cora Classic Rucksack caught our eye as well for its mountaineering look. The most technical bag in terms of pockets and compartments, the Cora features ultra-durable 400D high density nylon and a draw-cord opening with an adjustable hood.

Ignoble manufacturers their bags in America, explaining on their website that the line is “hand-assembled in small runs by a military-grade production facility.” The collection is available online through Ignoble, with prices ranging from $165-$400. The Lenore and Cora Classic sell for $250 and $165, respectively.


Photo LA 2012

Cinematic influences pervade the annual photo fair

Photo LA was sprawled across the Santa Monica Civic Auditorium with as much bustle as the city itself. Wandering through the labyrinth of pop-up exhibitors, those that stood out most conveyed a strong cinematic narrative with a sense of humor.

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Pulp Art Book marks a collaboration between photographer Neil Krug and model Joni Harbeck. The collection of serial adventures is set against fictional landscapes of pulp cinema. The primal COYOTE episode chronicles the rugged existence of a hunter in the desert, while BONNIE follows the final minutes of a girl-gone-bad during a shootout.

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In his Skeletons in the Closet Klaus Pichler ameliorates the dusty archives of Vienna’s Museum of Natural History with austere yet personality-loaded behind-the scenes-photographs. The stuffed animals become characters, or as Pichler puts it, “they are full of life, but dead nonetheless.”

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Glen Wexler’s large-format Improbable Realities weave awe-inspiring fantasy narratives. Wexler’s attention to whimsical details is realized by his team of top-notch feature film motion graphics experts.

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Atlantic Garden by Ulu Braun conjures a seemingly infinite, psychedelic video collage. As the camera pans perpetually to the right, Atlantic Garden reveals idyllic scenes from a diverse selection of places and times.

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Maria Luisa Morando’s Silver series reveals a vast triptych of over-exposed beach scenes from Southern France. Tired of details, Morando explains that she seeks simplicity in her images. The moody nostalgia of each landscape flows seamlessly into the next, drawing in viewers to lose themselves in the washed out colors, and identify with the obscure figures of beach-goers during magic hour.


Five Duffel Bags

Selected American-made bags fit for everyday carry or a weekend away

Although the year’s busiest travel days are over for some, our globe-trotting schedule never seems to let up. Inspired by the thought of the next adventure on the horizon we’ve gathered up a handful of our favorite new duffel bags—each expertly crafted in the USA. From dead-stock denim to Wisconsin-grown leather, these five bags will look great slung over the shoulder of both him and her.

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Will Leather Goods

Made in America with both domestic and international materials is the Oaxacan Duffel from Eugene, Oregon’s Will Leather Goods. Each unique bag incorporates hand-woven, vegetable-dyed wool rugs from the Oaxaca region in southern Mexico, and comes trimmed with American leather. With this multicultural approach, Will supports small communities through fair trade and sustainable production. Available online from Will for $495.

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Rag & Bone

The latest travel piece from the New York-based label brings a subdued aesthetic with a hint of spring to guide you through the gloomy winter months. The Devere Duffel‘s thick denim bottom and canvas upper are made of 100% cotton with rich leather accents. Available online from Rag & Bone for $275.

Brown Bag Co.

As the most industrial of the group, the Alpine Duffel Bag is technically meant for the construction site. However, its heavy-duty leather duffle features supple, Milwaukee-grown oil-tanned leather that’ll last a lifetime and only look better with wear, so we couldn’t help but recognize its aesthetic appeal. Plus, the multitude of pockets—two outer, ten inner—come in handy even if you’re hauling office supplies instead of power tools. Look to Home Depot where it sells for $313.

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Blue Claw Co.

Named for the nautical term for luggage taken on a voyage, the Dunnage is a slender duffel perfect for daily commutes and weekends away. The minimalist bag features one slit pocket on the outside and a zippered one the inside, providing just enough storage to keep things in order. The ballistic nylon shell sports leather accents for a classic look. Available from Blue Claw Co. for $178.

Me & Arrow

Constructed by hand in Los Angeles, the Arrow Duffel Bag features a wrapped denim body with 100% cotton lining in a hue they call “lime sorbet”, and dark brown leather straps. Like all Me & Arrow goods, each product is made with vintage, dead-stock fabrics. Both go for $234 online.