Innis and Gunn Irish Whiskey Cask

The accidental birth of the perfect summer beer
Innis-Gunn-1.jpg

In 2002, a whiskey distiller approached Dougal Sharp, a top brewer at Caledonian, to create a method of brewing whiskey that would give it an ale finish. Sharp invented a process that would impart a beer flavor onto the oak whiskey casks, but to his surprise it would be the beer brewed in these casks that would be too good to throw away. Born by accident, Innis and Gunn was launched in 2003 by Dougal and his brother, Neil, based on this oak cask aged brewing process.

In March 2012, Innis and Gunn released their first limited-edition Irish Whiskey Cask stout. “We have never brewed a stout before, but when we heard we could get ahold of those exceptional barrels, we got very excited at the prospect of maturing a Scottish Stout in former Irish whiskey barrels!” says Dougal. The Innis and Gunn Irish Whiskey Cask is the first beer to be aged in former triple-distilled Irish whiskey barrels. The result is a dark beer with a chocolate and treacle taste, hints of oak and vanilla, and a crisp whiskey finish.

Innis-Gunn-4.jpg

Although stouts are not typically considered a summer beer, the whiskey finish makes this beer surprisingly refreshing. A perfect bottle to add to the backyard rotation, this stout tastes great when paired with this summer’s Euro Cup festivities and bratwursts on the grill. Four packs of Innis and Gunn‘s Irish Whiskey Cask beer can be found for a limited time in the US at Whole Foods and other retailers for $13.


1512 Spirits: Signature Poitín

Heritage Irish potato spirit from a one-man distillery
1512-Poitin-2.jpg

Resurrecting a rare Irish spirit in the Bay Area is no easy feat, and distiller Salvatore Cimino isn’t the most likely candidate either. The third-generation distiller is of Sicilian descent, and decided to try creating the potato-based “poitín” (pot-cheen) at the behest of a friend who presented him with a heritage recipe. Having experienced some success with a duo of Prohibition-era rye whiskeys, Cimino created “Signature Poitín” as part of his one-man distilling operation 1512 Spirits. His methods bring a new meaning to the phrase “hand-crafted”, overseeing the entire process in a 700-square-foot space.

A barber by day, Cimino named the distillery 1512 after his shop, working on his spirits during off-hours. Using 95% potatoes, Cimino begins by juicing the spuds and cooking the liquid over a direct flame. He then adds hand-milled barley and cooks his mash, leaving it to ferment for three or four days. The mixture is separated by hand and double-distilled before it is proofed at 104. The process recalls the heritage of Irish farmers who would make this spirit with local materials and resources. While the Signature Poitín is high effort and low yield, Cimino is sticking to his artisanal guns.

1512-Poitin-1c.jpg

Poitín—Irish Gaelic for “small pot”—isn’t a delicate spirit. The flavor is robust, heavy on potato with floral notes thrown in between. While some will find it too raw and one-dimensional, others will appreciate the honesty of flavor that comes through, which is similar to that of a single-varietal vodka. Fans of the poitín enjoy it in a hot toddy, warm it up to expose the floral flavors or drink it neat alongside oysters. The drink is a true eau de vie—more likely to wake you up after a meal than tuck you in for bed.

The next release from 1512 Spirits will feature a rare wheat whiskey, which has been aged in ex-rye barrels. With batches that are limited to around 85 bottles, the level of craft goes well beyond single-barrel whiskeys. 1512 Spirits’ Signature Poitín can be found at select retailers and online through Cask Spirits.


Lee Broom’s Public House

The English designer brings a proper British pub to Milan

lee-broom-1.jpg

Lee Broom‘s name features consistently on the lips of those-in-the-know at London’s Design Festival. This year, the young designer, who we covered in 2010, took his solo show to Milan and created his own corner of English charm in which to show his new work plus a little of the old.

Of course, being a Cockney, Broom dismantled an old London pub and ambitiously recreated it in Lambrate’s rapidly rising design zone. According to the designer; “The project was a bit of a big one involving a vast quantity of shipping crates,” in comparison to simply bringing a few pieces along to show standalone. Plus it was the first time the Milanese design crowds had been exposed (as they might put it) to a proper ‘boozer’ and perhaps one which might be called the first real proper design pub!

lee-broom-2.jpg

Yet the strife in dismantling and assembling such a gargantuan installation paid off spectacularly. The Pub drew together Broom’s distinctly English inspirations and formed a seamless link between the designer, his aesthetic viewpoint, his inspirations and the outcome of his work be it under his own name, or collaborating with others.

The Heritage Boy work from 2009 and its overtones of London’s classic iconography and English craft attributes was placed in context, with the (still very fresh) middling blue tones counteracting with the deep mahoganies of the pub’s reclaimed wood panelling. The panelling itself, with its gentle marquetry, also gave a nice compliment to the cut glass lights of the 2011 One Light Only project, which saw Broom investigate the classic style of Art Deco jewelry. While the space was lit with Broom’s new lighting.

lee-broom-3.jpg

This year, Broom explored further the notion of English craft and the glowing embers of tradition, utilizing cut glass techniques to create his Cut Crystal Bulbs—a simple revisit to the old, banned, tungsten lightbulb in a naked, unclad format. Dangling from a braided gold cord and gold housing, the cut glass pattern diffuses light around a space spreading a classy haven of joy; a group of the fixtures is enough to make one’s heart race.

lee-broom-4.jpg

While we were there, Broom showed us a continuation of the cut glass influence and a project completed with Ballantine whisky. The project was to give Broom free reign to translate the classic decanter into something more modern which was still imbued by the brand’s heritage. “It was a nice project, that let me kind of close the circle on the cut glass work. I’ve done the lights now, which remove the technique from where you’d normally see if and then bought it back to its beginnings with this decanter set,” explains Broom, who has worked with the company before to create a special bar stool for its 12 year old line. ” Obviously we’re used to drinking from the cut-style tumbler but this time we’re mixing, sealing and chilling the liquor in beautiful cut glass units which combine together to form one piece,” he continues.

lee-broom-5.jpg

Broom’s intention is that the base acts as the glass to seal in flavors and aroma, the middle also acts as a glass or cube/stone holder while the top can be used for water or other carriers to enhance flavor.

lee-broom-6.jpg

While most other designers descended on the horrendously overrated Bar Basso, Lee Broom did the British thing, holding fort and standing as cultural bastion of the empire in his own pub. Ma’am would be pleased on all counts.


Glenmorangie Artein

Single malt Scotch whisky born of stone and finished in Super Tuscan casks

Glenmorangie_Artein_1.jpg

Joining Finealta and Sonnalta PX in Glenmorangie’s Private Edition range, Artein is fantastic single malt that combines ripe fruit aromas with zesty notes of spearmint and citrus. Its unusual flavor profile received the thumbs up from everyone at CH HQ who had the opportunity to sample it.

The first thing that stands out is the deep, rich caramel color. The nose definitely bears the mark of the Scotch’s finishing—initially aged in white oak bourbon barrels, Artein is a blend of Glenmorangie 15 year old (around 2/3) and 21 year old (around 1/3) whiskies which are then transfered to Italian Super Tuscan wine casks for marrying and “extra maturation”. The Super Tuscan casks lend just enough flavor to enhance an already fine whisky, and avoids the unfortunate over-flavoring of some other finished whiskies. Super Tuscan wines are known for the intense terroir of the rocky terrains in Italy’s Tuscan coast, and the relatively strong 46% Artein remains pleasantly manageable in terms of volatility, allowing the palate to open up nicely when a few drops of water are added.

Glenmorangie_Artein_3.jpg

Named after the Gaelic word for “stone”, Artein uses the hard water from Glenmorangie’s Tarlogie Springs. Naturally filtered through layers of limestone, the spring is one of Glenmorangie’s well-protected secrets. The distillery takes inspiration for its signet from the Cadboll Stone, an ancient carved “pictish” stone. For Artein, Glemmorangie wanted to produce a whisky that exemplified the rich mineral characteristics of stone at every turn.

Artein is available for purchase from specialty retailers as well as online.


Monkey Shoulder Whisky

Scotch whisky manually mixed for smooth flavor from a blend of three malts
Monkey-Shoulder-label.jpg

As one of the few remaining whisky distilleries in the world still using manual mixing techniques during the production process, Monkey Shoulder makes a rich and uniquely flavorful blend. This hands-on turning of the barley was once known to cause a temporary ailment for which this whisky is named. Monkey Shoulder has adopted the same time-tested techniques under better working conditions—and without the risk of injury—to create their signature triple malt Scotch whisky. The spirit has been available in its native U.K. for some time, but just recently launched in the U.S. in January 2012.

Monkey-Shoulder-detail.jpg

The first distillery to blend three malts, Monkey Shoulder is made from a trio of fine Speyside single malts—Glenfiddich, Balvenie, Kininvie. Once selected, the malts are left to mature in bourbon casks for a length of time only the “malt master” knows. This process lends the whisky subtle, but distinct smokey notes of oak that compliment the spirit’s naturally sweet vanilla and brown sugar flavors. Each batch contains just 27 individually taste-tested casks to keep quality consistently up to grade.

Monkey Shoulder is now available in the U.S. from select Chicago stores and online nationwide at the brand’sBinny’s for $30 per 750ml bottle. For more information on the production process and for heaps of inventive cocktail recipes head to e-shop.


Jameson Irish Whiskey Distillery

Behind the scenes at the Jameson Distillery with Master Distiller Barry Crockett
Jameson_Distillery1.jpg

John Jameson’s Dublin distillery was founded in 1780, guided by the family motto “Sine Metu”, meaning without fear. To this day, those words appear on every bottle of Irish whisky. At the original distillery, located next to Smithfield Market, Jameson used well water, searched for superior strains of barley, sought out high quality casks and believed the whisky should be matured in cool, damp cellars. Eventually, he built larger warehouses that captured rainwater to recreate such conditions, and by 1890 Irish whiskey had become one of the most popular whiskeys in the world.

Later, because of Prohibition in the U.S. and the consequentially insurmountable tariff barriers in England, there was decline in the market which led to the demise of many Irish whiskey companies and, eventually, to the formation of the Irish Distillers Group. In 1971, Jameson’s Bow Street distillery stopped operations and all production was moved to the Midleton Distillery in Cork.

Jameson_Distillery6a.jpg Jameson_Distillery6b.jpg

Back in Dublin, tours of the Bow Street Distillery in Smithfield Village continue today, recounting the legacy and proud heritage of Irish whiskey. Visitors can watch a short documentary film, take the tour and enjoy the tasting room and restaurant. The distillery building is also the setting for special events including the Jameson Global Party on St. Patrick’s Day.

We went behind the scenes of the public tasting tours at the Jameson Experience in Cork to meet the core team. The steps behind the sourcing and repairing of casks was presented inside the coopers’ workshop, revealing a process of connecting flawless pieces of oak cut precisely according to the wood’s rings, that has remained relatively unchanged throughout the years.

Jameson_Distillery5.jpg

We met the current master distiller Barry Crockett, who apprenticed under his father, master distiller Max Crockett, to learn the age-old trade. During lunch with the junior Crockett in his childhood home, we learned about the triple distillation process Jameson has perfected since 1790, and the five-year aging period for the single-pot still and grain whiskey blends.

Since the beginning, “Jameson has been made using same type of equipment and methods, but the product made today is cleaner more refined and sweeter that would have been possible with the old equipment in the late 1700s,” says Crockett. “With the higher level of control with the modern equipment and controls we can achieve a finer quality of spirit.”

Jameson_Distillery2.jpg

“Irish whiskey has always been different to Scottish and American whiskeys,” says Crockett. “The fact that makes it different is the production technique, which is part of what we do. The use of high proportions of barley, harvested locally which gives it a very unique flavor and taste to the whiskey. The barley in my view offers a type of apple, pear or peach type aroma. You will find that very much in all of the Irish whiskies. It also gives a smooth even mouthy effect that lends to a more soft and sweet aftertaste.”

There’s a section of the cottage being transformed to better showcase the history of the brand. “Jameson has a strong story in term of its heritage, imagery, and we are advancing that imagery by getting our archives together to display,” says Crockett. “We know when people are coming here. The principal thing is to understand why it is a popular whiskey in the first place.”

Jameson_Distillery3.jpg

While the company focuses primarily on filling orders, Crockett’s main responsibility lies in developing single-origin pot still expressions. “These certainly show the consumer public that Irish whiskey is not just Jameson, but is also able to present a range of different flavor characteristics,” he explains. “We believe the single-origin pot still range will do for Irish whiskey what the concept of single malt did for Scotland.” Crockett says that their goal is to launch one to two new single pot still whiskeys each year.

Jameson_Distillery4a.jpg Jameson_Distillery4b.jpg

Our tour concluded at the Jameson warehouses, where up to 36,000 barrels are stored upright on rows of palettes. When asked what he’d want to drink if he were stranded on a desert island, Crockett answered, “Jameson 18-year-old, or the Legacy.”


Pemberton Distillery

Organic potato vodka, locally malted whiskey and G&T syrups brewed in British Columbia
Pemberton_Distillery1.jpg

On a recent trip to Whistler, we had the opportunity to sample the vodka from Pemberton Distillery, a fledgling outfit nestled in the Pemberton Valley of British Columbia. Within their unassuming walls, the distillery employs copper stills to create a line of locally sourced, organic liquors.

Pemberton_Distillery4b.jpg Pemberton_Distillery4a.jpg

Designed as a sipping spirit, Schramm Vodka has a deliciously clean flavor followed by a distinctive finish. Pemberton’s potatoes are free from herbicides, long-life chemicals and fertilizers, earning organic certification from the B.C. Pacific Agricultural Society. The distillery also produces syrups to spice up gin & tonic cocktails and vanilla extract made from the house vodka.

Pemberton_Distillery5.jpg

Schramm Gin is a potato gin created in handcrafted, small-batch runs with only eight botanical flavors added during the distillation process. Pemberton is also adding a whiskey to their line when it matures in 2013, which will be made from organic barley that’s malted in B.C. and then aged in bourbon casks.

Spirits from Pemberton Distillery sell online and from select distributors in B.C.


Bourbon Barrel Foods

Repurposed casks add distinctive notes to small-batch sauces and spices
Burbon_Barrel1.jpg

Based in Louisville, Kentucky, the city known as the gateway to bourbon country, Matt Jamie has found a new way to repurpose barrels that have been used to age the region’s signature spirit. Bourbon Barrel Foods makes micro-brewed and barrel-aged soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, marinades and sorghum salad dressing, as well as barrel-smoked salt, sugar pepper and paprika once the whiskey has been drained.

Burbon_Barrel3b.jpg Burbon_Barrel3a.jpg

The barrels can only be used once to make bourbon, and are then typically exported to make scotch, Irish whiskey, rum and tequila. Bourbon Barrel Foods stood out from the crowd at the Winter 2012 Fancy Food Show for the company’s new local, sustainable approach to reusing bourbon barrels with delicious results.

Each small batch of soy sauce is made with non-GMO soybeans grown in southern Kentucky, soft red winter wheat, and limestone-filtered spring water, and then aged for 12 months in the whiskey casks, which infuse the liquid with a distinct, smoky flavor unusual to the traditional Japanese marinade.

Burbon_Barrel2b.jpg Burbon_Barrel2a.jpg

Bourbon Barrel Foods is a member of the Original Makers Club, known for their cultural business guide to Louisville that champions the work of unique local companies. Products can be found in the Bourbon Barrel Foods online shop.


St. George Spirits

Our tour of the ingredient-driven artisanal California distillery
St_George_1.jpg

The building that houses St. George Spirits in Alameda, CA may look like a naval air hangar on the outside, but inside lies a vast warren of copper pot stills and casks filled with artisanal spirits. St. George was founded in 1982 to make eau de vie fruit brandies, and the process of making handcrafted eau de vie continues to influence their development of other spirits. Since its inception, the distillery has evolved into a comprehensive operation making whiskey, gin, rum, Qi Tea Liqueurs, and is even developing an aged balsamic vinegar.

Master distiller Lance Winters has been on a 16-year journey to make magic at St. George, and he describes his work as if he were tinkering away in some kind of fantastical workshop. With no shortage of projects on hand, Winters is currently planning a move to a much larger laboratory and is working on the release of a single malt whisky with a special bottling from a single barrel later this year, in celebration of their 30th anniversary. In about two years, Winters’ organic corn rye whiskey and California bourbon will be ready for release. We caught up with Winters to get a tour and hear more about his successful passion.

St_George_2.jpg

What are you working on in here in your lab?

This is where most of our projects start. I run individual botanicals through one of these small stills to be able to see how it is going to express itself. I have one friend who is growing organic rye up by Mt. Shasta. We have brought down some of that rye, mashed it in here, fermented it and distilled it in the stills and it’s lovely. I also decided to make bourbon. Bourbon is a lot of fun because you have so much latitude to play around with the grain bill. It’s like making chocolate or coffee—bringing out different characteristics when you roast the grain.

St_George_Sideby_1.jpg St_George_Sideby_2.jpg
How did the idea for your Breaking & Entering Bourbon bottling come about?

Dave Smith is responsible for putting together our whiskey for bottling. He goes through and smells and tastes everything we’ve got and determines what is going to go into a given bottling. He is so good at it, I thought, what if he had access to a bunch of bourbon barrels? What could he do? So we went to a bunch of different bourbon distilleries. We brought 320 barrels back with us. It took him about three months to taste from all of them. He made notes and decided how they would best be blended together to be able to make a “super bourbon”—a Compass Box style of American bourbon. I think Compass Box is fantastic. We bottled ours under the name Breaking & Entering. We were careful to let people know that we did not make this, but we blended it. We love it.

You are aging balsamic vinegar too?

This balsamic vinegar has been aging for 14 years. It’s thick and syrupy. There is no way to short-circuit this process. I want to learn how to blow glass and make my own bottles.

St_George_5.jpg

How did you develop your three gins? (Terroir, Botanivore, and Dry Rye Gin)

Five years ago I started talking about how much in love I am with the parklands around here. My son was going to a day camp. I’d pick him up in the afternoons and the smell was pine trees and wild fennel, bay laurel, and dirt. I love that smell of the earth between the dry dusty component and the decomposing mulch of the woodlands. I thought that would be something really great to distill, but then I shelved the idea. A couple of years later, I started thinking about making a gin with the flavors and smells of the forest. They all have an affinity for some traditional part if the gin profile. If you’ve hiked Mt. Tamalpais you will recognize the profile. We bring in Douglas fir and infuse it in high proof alcohol. We have been drawing it off and taking that liquid and putting it in the stills. It tastes like a sweet Christmas tree.

We also make a gin called Botanivore, a very broad, beautiful refreshing style of gin designed for tropical climates that is great for gin and tonics. As soon as you throw a little tonic in there, the dill seed in it explodes making it very green and herbaceous. It’s really good in a martini too.

At the opposite end of the spectrum is the one we start with a pot-distilled rye. It’s like a rye whiskey that hasn’t touched a barrel yet. Rye already has a lovely peppery nature to it that helps bump up some of the juniper berry qualities. We use 50% more juniper berries and crack them open to get more surface area. We add black peppercorns, caraway seed, lime and grapefruit peel. It’s my favorite cocktail base for a Negroni or to treat is as a rye in an Old Fashioned.

St_George_3.jpg

So are your spirits for cocktail geeks?

Our customers don’t need to be experts, they just need to know what they like and what makes their palette tingle. We need to be experts at what we like and that’s basically where everything starts. We’ve been able to find enough people who think like us to keep us going.


The Leather-bound PDT Cocktail Book

A leather-bound edition of the new barman’s bible

PDT-Leather-cover.jpg

Jim Meehan, New York’s most meticulous bartender, compiled The PDT Cocktail Book with the same precise touch, careful measurement and keen eye he applies to his inventive cocktails. Launching last month to an overwhelmingly warm welcome, the new barman’s bible of some 300 recipes was hailed as the most influential book on mixology to hit shelves in recent history. As somewhat of an homage to the rich, dark aesthetic of the bar where many of the featured cocktails were invented, Meehan has released a new leather-bound edition designed and illustrated by Chris Gall.

PDT-spread.jpg

This latest edition of the PDT Cocktail Book is handsomely wrapped in fine leather, giving the book a traditional feel reminiscent of what one mind find in a rich antique library. Each recipe is complimented by Gall’s bright illustrations as well, a touch that provides a nice contrast to the book’s serious exterior.

PDT-spine-.jpg PDT-leather.jpg

With the same extensive content as the first release, this leather-bound edition details many behind-the-scenes secrets to PDT’s success in addition to the stellar recipes, from bar layout and design to preferred tools, techniques and special ingredients. The Leather-bound edition of PDT Cocktaill Book is now available from Moore and Giles for $65.