“Young designers have given up waiting to be spotted by a big producer” – Tom Dixon

British designer Tom Dixon discusses how the digitalisation of manufacturing processes is enabling young designers to take production into their own hands in this movie Dezeen filmed at MOST in Milan.

"The whole equation has completely changed" - Tom Dixon
Milan’s Museum of Science and Technology

Set against a backdrop of planes, trains and submarines, Dixon has hosted his MOST show at the Museum of Science and Technology during Milan design week for the last two years.

“What you’ll see around the museum is people just getting on and producing their own things,” Dixon says of this year’s exhibition.

"The whole equation has completely changed" - Tom Dixon
Trumpf punch press at MOST 2012

“Last year we used a big punch press with a German company called Trumpf to make something here in the museum,” Dixon says. “The net result of that are some big lamps that we’re now going to be making in New York for a client and the one that we’re showing here was made in London.”

Called Punch Ball, the lamps can be customised and ordered via Tom Dixon Bespoke and are produced to order locally.

"The whole equation has completely changed" - Tom Dixon
Punch Ball pendant lamp by Tom Dixon

“We’re deconstructing the manufacturing process,” Dixon claims. “I think for a long time people thought all goods were going to be produced a long way away in low-cost labour countries and shipped in huge quantities to the rich west, but that whole equation has completely changed.”

"The whole equation has completely changed" - Tom Dixon
Punch Ball pendant lamp by Tom Dixon

Dixon says that now smaller companies are also able to produce their own products due to advances in digital fabrication technologies.

“The product world has been quite slow to be part of the digital revolution, but obviously people are getting more and more able to bypass the normal structures for producing and selling their work,” he says.

“I think a couple of years back, people would have been waiting for a big producer to spot their prototypes and put them into production. People have given up hope of that happening, but of course with the new technologies you’re able to produce the stuff yourself digitally, do the logistics through various structures and then get direct to the global consumer.”

"The whole equation has completely changed" - Tom Dixon
Fab.com stand at MOST 2013

Dixon cites online retailer Fab.com, which had a stand at this year’s MOST, as an example of how designers today are able to sell their products all over the world, without having to rely on the infrastructure of a large manufacturer or distributer.

“People are being approached by [Fab.com] to sell their things online to an audience of something like 13 million internationally, which means that a young, untested designer can suddenly have access to this vast marketplace,” he says.

“Designers from all over the world are making all over the world and selling all over the world, which is a significant move from what Milan used to be.”

"The whole equation has completely changed" - Tom Dixon
Tom Dixon

See all our Milan 2013 coverage »
Watch our Dezeen and MINI World Tour video reports from Milan »

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“With too many contemporary watches you can’t tell what time it is” – Tom Dixon

Interview: in this exclusive interview designer Tom Dixon tells us why he decided to design his first watch – and how he wanted to make it easy to read the time (+ movie).

Block Watch by Tom Dixon

“We’ve spent a lot of time doing lighting over the last ten years, and also more recently furniture, and now we’ve decided it’s time to also do accessories,” says Dixon, speaking in the Tom Dixon showroom at The Dock in north-west London.

Block Watch by Tom Dixon

“I’m trying to produce something with an expressive neutrality,” he says. “I tend to try and work out what I can strip out without losing character.”

Block Watch by Tom Dixon

The result is Block Watch, which features a square case stamped out of stainless steel or brass. The watch face is circular, with etched numerals and markers. The watch’s hour, minute and second hands are powered by a high-quality Swiss movement.

Block Watch by Tom Dixon

“I tend to try and work out what I can strip out without losing character,” says Dixon, explaining his design philosophy. “A watch has really got to be round if it’s analogue, because the hands sweep round. I wanted to make sure you could tell the time – because with all too many contemporary watches you can’t tell what time it is. And I wanted to set it in a square because the strap has to go to a square anyway.”

Block Watch by Tom Dixon

The watch is available in either stainless steel or rose gold (plated) with matching mesh straps, or in brass with a chunky brown leather strap.

The mesh strap is inspired by vintage TV detective Kojak, Dixon says. “It’s got this chain link bracelet, which I guess is a reference to when I was growing up – Kojak, maybe.”

He adds: “It’s just the minimal elements you need to make a watch all reduced to their bare essentials and, I hope, still expressive enough to be something you want to buy.”

Block Watch by Tom Dixon is available to preorder now on Dezeen Watch Store with free worldwide shipping. Prices start at £166.67 excluding VAT.

www.dezeenwatchstore.com

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Block Watch by Tom Dixon now available at Dezeen Watch Store

Dezeen Watch Store: Block Watch is the first timepiece by London designer Tom Dixon and the latest addition to our collection of watches by leading designers and independent brands (+ movie). 

Block by Tom Dixon now available at Dezeen Watch Store

Block features a distinctive square case stamped from a piece of stainless steel or brass and a circular face with etched numerals and markers. The watch’s hour, minute and second hands are powered by a high-quality Swiss movement.

Block by Tom Dixon now available at Dezeen Watch Store

The timepiece is available in either stainless steel or rose gold (plated) with matching mesh straps, or in brass with a chunky brown leather strap.

Block by Tom Dixon now available at Dezeen Watch Store

“I’m trying to produce something with an expressive neutrality,” says Dixon in the movie we filmed at his studio in London. “I tend to try and work out what I can strip out without losing character.”

Block by Tom Dixon now available at Dezeen Watch Store

He continues: “I wanted to make sure that you can tell the time. With all too many contemporary watches you really can’t tell what time it is.”

Block by Tom Dixon now available at Dezeen Watch Store

Dixon goes on to explain that the mesh strap featured on two of the watches refers to his childhood. “It’s got this chain link bracelet, which I guess is a reference to when I was growing up – Kojak, maybe.”

Block by Tom Dixon now available at Dezeen Watch Store

“It’s just the minimal elements that you need to make a watch, all reduced to their bare essentials,” he concludes.

Block by Tom Dixon now available at Dezeen Watch Store

Block by Tom Dixon is available to preorder now on Dezeen Watch Store with free worldwide shipping.

www.dezeenwatchstore.com

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“Milan is a breeding ground for people who copy our products”

Dezeen and MINI World Tour: in this movie filmed in Milan earlier this month, leading designers and manufacturers discuss the phenomenon of copying and how they are responding. “It’s become an increasingly big problem for us,” says Tom Dixon. “People can steal ideas and produce them almost faster than we can now.”

“Milan is a breeding ground for people who copy our products”

“An original design product will have a cost higher than its copy,” says designer Marcel Wanders (above). “It’s very simple. Stealing most of the time is more cheap than buying.”

Unscrupulous manufacturers visit Milan to photograph new prototypes and then rush out copies before the original products reach the market, according to Casper Vissers (below), CEO of furniture and lighting brand Moooi.

“Milan is a breeding ground for people who copy our products”

“It’s very sour if you have presented a product in April and it’s in the shops in September, but a bloody copier has it already in August,” says Vissers, speaking at Moooi’s spectacular Unexpected Welcome show in Milan (below). “This is what happens at the moment.”

Vissers adds that legal action against copiers in Asia is expensive and, even if it’s successful in the short term, it does little to stem the tide: “You need huge amounts of money [to launch a law suit in the Far East] and if you win – if – a new limited company in China will start production [of copies]”.

“Milan is a breeding ground for people who copy our products”

Copiers are increasingly shameless about their intentions, says Tom Dixon, speaking at his presentation at MOST in Milan. “People feel very confident copying things. Some people come around with spy glasses photographing things but other people are more overt and come in with iPads or film crews.”

Dixon says the problem is getting worse, with markets around the world and even the UK market increasingly flooded with copies. “Everywhere we go in Australia or Singapore or India we’ll see many, many copies, and that’s also hitting more and more the UK as well.”

“Milan is a breeding ground for people who copy our products”

Gregg Buchbinder (above), CEO of furniture company Emeco, says the solution is for designers to push manufacturers to make more sophisticated products that are harder to copy. The furniture collection Emeco developed with designer Konstantin Grcic for the Parrish Art Museum on Long Island (below), for example, “was a very difficult project to do. Although the chair looks simple, there’s nothing skipped.”

“The more difficult it is, the more difficult it is for people to knock it off,” Buchbinder adds.

“Milan is a breeding ground for people who copy our products”

Emeco aggressively pursues copyists through the courts and earlier this year won a case against fellow US manufacturer Restoration Hardware, which had copied the iconic Navy chair.

But outside Europe and the US, copyright law is less robust and harder to enforce. “It’s very, very difficult to protect yourself legally,” says Dixon.

Dixon’s company is directly responding to the problem of copying by developing a range of new products designed to make life more difficult for counterfeiters.

“Milan is a breeding ground for people who copy our products”

“What you’ll see [at our Milan presentation] is a number of coping strategies,” Dixon explains. “We’ve been trying as much as possible to invest in tooling and slightly more advanced technology. We’re working on adaptive models where we make specific things for clients. A new bespoke division where we make things for people, so we adapt our products to suit a client’s needs. So there’s ways of dealing with it. We’ve just got to be faster and smarter.”

See all our stories about copying in design ».

“Milan is a breeding ground for people who copy our product”

Milan is the second stop on our Dezeen and MINI World Tour. See all our reports from our first destination, Cape Town. This movie features a MINI Cooper S Paceman.

The music featured is a track called Divisive by We Are Band, a UK-based electronic act who played at the MINI Paceman Garage in Milan on Friday. You can listen to the full track on Dezeen Music Project.

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“It’s the most important week in the design calendar”

Dezeen and MINI World Tour: designers including Marcel Wanders, Yves Behar, Tom Dixon and Konstantin Grcic discuss the importance of Milan design week, which ended in the city yesterday, and whether it can retain its title as the world’s leading event.

Each April, the world’s leading designers descend on the city for the fair still regarded as the most important in the world. “I come to Milan every year,” says Yves Behar. “It’s the obligatory stop.”

“It’s a moment I can’t miss,” agrees Stephen Burks. “It’s the most important week in the design calendar.”

They are joined by hundreds of thousands of international visitors including students, journalists, buyers and younger designers trying to get their work noticed.

“It gives lots of young designers a great thrill to come here and get discovered,” says Ron Arad. “My entire design team comes here to suck up new ideas and ensure they’re seeing the latest and the greatest,” says Anders Warming, head of design at MINI.

The fair owes its importance to the emergence of Milan as the world’s key centre for the design and manufacture of both furniture and products after the devastation of the Second World War, playing a key role in Italy’s economic recovery. “All of the important history of post-war furniture design happened here,” says Konstantin Grcic.

The official fair, the Salone Internazionale del Mobile, as well as the Fuori Salone events around the city, grew over the years into the sprawling citywide festival it is today. “There was a lot of excitement around [the fair], starting in the early eighties with Memphis and [Studio] Alchimia,” says Arad, citing two of the most influential Milanese design studios of the last century.

However the economic crisis of recent years and the emergence of rival design centres combined to make this year’s fair a more sober affair than recent years. “I feel like there’s a return to the reason why we are all here, which is the actual commerce of the fair,” says Johanna Agerman Ross, editor-in-chief of Disegno magazine.

“It’s certainly got much, much more competition these days,” says journalist and curator Henrietta Thompson. “The London Design Festival is fantastic these days but also Stockholm and Paris.”

Milan-based designer Fabio Novembre touches on the reasons why the city might be losing its edge: “It’s hard to take a group of Italians and make them all go in one direction,” he says. “That explains why we’re in a big crisis and why we are almost losing the importance of Salone del Mobile.”

Joseph Grima, editor-in-chief of Milanese design magazine Domus, agrees. “The city is really in need of someone who’s going to have a vision for the future,” he says.

“Milan remains the only place where you can still see everybody in one go,” says Tom Dixon. “Whether it can maintain that top spot … is hard to tell. It becomes impossible to navigate the city, you can’t get a taxi, you can’t get a hotel room and you can’t afford space to show your goods.”

"It's the most important week in the design calendar"

Look out for more reports from Milan as part of our Dezeen and MINI World Tour in the coming days. The car featured in the movie is the MINI Paceman.

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The Capsule by Tom Dixon for Adidas

Milan 2013: tracking along conveyer belts at MOST in Milan, British designer Tom Dixon’s collection for Adidas includes garments that convert into luggage and camping equipment (+ slideshow).

Adidas by Tom Dixon

Named The Capsule, Dixon‘s range for the sports brand includes parkas that transform into sleeping bags and hooded tops that zip into small pouches.

Adidas by Tom Dixon

The designer has also created a set of overalls that can be deconstructed with zips and poppers to form a long coat, a cropped jacket, trousers, a skirt or shorts.

Adidas by Tom Dixon

Backpacks unfold to form wardrobes packed with enough clothes and accessories for a weekend away.

Adidas by Tom Dixon

Hung individually or displayed against tarpaulins, items rotate continuously along rails, while others are laid out on camp beds.

Adidas by Tom Dixon

The exhibition is housed in a former railway station, so sounds of steam trains and industrial activity are played around the space and smoke is pumped out into the air.

Adidas by Tom Dixon

The lightweight waterproofs and outdoor apparel are coloured in shades of blue, yellow, grey and green, and will be available in Adidas stores from mid November.

Adidas by Tom Dixon

Dixon has also launched a collection of champagne buckets and faceted furniture inspired by gemstones at MOST, an exhibition venue he founded in 2012 at the Museum of Science and Technology on Via Olona.

Adidas by Tom Dixon

See more designs by Tom Dixon »
See all our coverage of Milan 2013 »
See our Milan 2013 map »

Here’s the press release from Adidas:


Adidas by Tom Dixon unveiled at MOST during Milan’s Salone del Mobile

Mobility, modularity, and a dynamic, 21st-century life are the core concepts at the heart of a new collaboration between Adidas and the renowned British industrial designer Tom Dixon.

Adidas by Tom Dixon

Debuting this month at MOST in an experimental factory installation, created by Design Research Studio and set in an immense environment of a reconstructed 19th Century railway station, the resulting collection runs the gamut from convertible travel bags and luggage to sleek sportswear and apparel.

Adidas by Tom Dixon

The adidas by Tom Dixon collection uniquely reflects both Adidas’ forward-thinking technologies and Dixon’s inventive style.

Adidas by Tom Dixon

The teaming up of Tom Dixon and Adidas is an opportunity for grand exploration into the sport’s world expertise in performance, matched with British ingenuity, both representing unique craftsmanship and innovation.

Adidas by Tom Dixon

Known for his radical and highly influential selvage aesthetic, Dixon has since the 1980s championed a return to honest materials and British craftsmanship.

Adidas by Tom Dixon

In the first instalment of his two-year partnership with Adidas, this singular sensibility is expressed in padded parkas that convert to sleeping bags, ‘ultralite’ hoodies that can be zipped into small pouches during travel, and a spectacular modular five-in-one overall design that converts to a coat, jacket, pant, skirt, or short.

Adidas by Tom Dixon

Accessories also work double and triple duty as duffle bags convert to suitcases and garment bags to backpacks. The innovative collection offers an exciting glimpse at the future of sport style.

Adidas by Tom Dixon

Apparel is priced from €110 to €1300, while footwear ranges from €170 to €270 and accessories from €220 to €350. Adidas by Tom Dixon will be available in stores worldwide from mid November 2013.

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Rough & Smooth collection by Tom Dixon

Product news: British designer Tom Dixon’s latest collection, launching at MOST in Milan next month, includes solid brass champagne buckets and faceted furniture inspired by gemstones (+ slideshow).

Rough & Smooth collection by Tom Dixon

Above: Gem lights

Tom Dixon’s Rough & Smooth collection includes Gem, a family of angular lights, tables and mirrors inspired by gemstones and sand-cast from nickel-plated aluminium.

Rough & Smooth collection by Tom Dixon

Above: Gem tables and mirrors

The Spun champagne bucket and tables are made from sheets of hand-spun solid brass polished to a mirror finish.

Rough & Smooth collection by Tom Dixon

Above: Gem lights

The Flask light combines a ridged sphere of hand-blown glass with a smoked glass hood, while the Cell light is inspired by the growth of cells and made from layers of etched and polished brass.

Rough & Smooth collection by Tom Dixon

Above: Spun champagne bucket and tables

The Bell floor lamp and table lamp have chrome-plated dome for a shade and another dome as a chunky base.

Rough & Smooth collection by Tom Dixon

Above: Flask pendant lamps

An extension of the earlier Fan chair, the Fan dining chair, stool and table are formed from machined wood spindles.

Rough & Smooth collection by Tom Dixon

Above: Cell wall lamp

The Mass coat stand, book stand, dining table and console table are chunky pieces of furniture clad in brass, which will develop a natural patina over time.

Rough & Smooth collection by Tom Dixon

Above: Cell pendant lamps

The collection will be shown from 8 to 14 April at MOST in Milan’s National Museum of Science and Technology, an exhibition set up by Dixon last year as he explained in a filmed interview with Dezeen.

Rough & Smooth collection by Tom Dixon

Above: Bell floor and table lamps

Other products by Dixon we’ve featured include a set of iridescent stoneware pendant lamps and a light that casts geometric shadows on surrounding surfaces – see all design by Tom Dixon.

Rough & Smooth collection by Tom Dixon

Above: Fan dining chair, stool and table

Here’s some more information from the designer:


This year we take visitors through two contrasting environments – Rough and Smooth. Celebrating the joy of contrast, this year we are highlighting the opposite qualities of our new products. Rough because this season we have worked on even more textural honesty and material weight in our production. And smooth because we are still fascinated by extreme polished surfaces, sharp lines and modern manufacturing.

Rough & Smooth collection by Tom Dixon

Above: Mass dining table

Follow a rollercoaster journey through the rough and tumble of our warehouse where fresh stock is unloaded and unpacked fresh from the manufacturing process and on through tearooms and shop windows into our spanking new show space which we furnish with our latest lighting and furniture, ranging from the textured sand-cast nickel- plated aluminium to the ultra-polished chromed pressed steel.

Rough & Smooth collection by Tom Dixon

Above: Mass coat stand, book stand and console table

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“Legal systems don’t really defend designers at all,” says Tom Dixon

Tom Dixon at Global Design Forum

News: ”Legal systems don’t really defend designers at all” when it comes to copying, British designer Tom Dixon told Dezeen today at the Global Design Forum, a day of talks from leading figures in the design world as part of the London Design Festival (+audio).

Above: Tom Dixon spoke to Dezeen after his talk at the Global Design Forum today

In his presentation earlier this morning, Dixon commented on the threat foreign manufacturers pose to his design business. Searching for his work on eBay produces seven pages and only two genuine items, he said: “All the others are copies at a third of the price from Hong Kong.” Copiers use drawings from designers’ websites to produce accurate replicas and even steal marketing images to paste into their own online catalogues, he explained. “It’s very quick and pernicious. I used to laugh it off and be flattered that people bothered to copy, but now I’m more nervous.”

Speaking to Dezeen after his talk, Dixon explained that “in Australia for instance, if you call something a Tom Dixon replica you can bypass the law: you’re stating what the thing is, it’s a replica, so therefore it’s legitimate even though it’s a copy.” He says that designers “just have to be smarter, faster and quicker to market.”

Dixon is therefore enthusiastic about technological advances that are making the manufacturing process more fast and flexible, citing his use of robotic machines that bypass the high set-up costs and inflexibility of mass-production and enable the same design to be produced in Britain, the US and China simultaneously, simply by sending a computer file.

“Localised production will become more and more the model, just because we won’t be able to afford to ship things so much,” he told us. “Perhaps you do want things which are more adapted to your personal needs and maybe you’ll cherish things which are more personal anyway. Previously those things were only available to people that could afford tailor-made shoes but there’s no doubt that it’s already possible to personalise things for your own needs right now. So that could be a massive growing trend.”

In May the UK government announced changes in the law to give ‘artistic’ manufactured goods the same term of copyright protection as music and literature, following a campaign spearheaded by Elle Decoration UK editor Michelle Ogundehin.

Read Dezeen’s report on how localised, digital manufacture is revolutionising industrial design here, and watch our movie filmed with Tom Dixon at his digital mini factory in Milan here.

The Global Design Forum is a new conference taking place today, organised by the London Design Festival to bring together designers, critics, technology experts, trend forecasters and trade and government representatives to discuss the global agenda for design.

See all our stories about Tom Dixon »
See all our stories about London Festival 2012 »

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Lustre pendant lamps by Tom Dixon

London designer Tom Dixon will launch a range of iridescent stoneware pendant lights at next month’s London Design Festival.

Lustre by Tom Dixon

The Lustre shades are glazed with a mixture of minerals and precious metals that react unpredictably when fired so that every piece is unique.

Lustre by Tom Dixon

They come in four shapes and are the first ceramic lighting pieces from Dixon.

Lustre by Tom Dixon

He showed the prototypes at MOST in Milan in April and will launch the products as part of lighting show Luminosity at his headquarters The Dock during the London Design Festival, which takes place from 14 to 23 September.

Lustre by Tom Dixon

Watch Dixon give Dezeen a tour of The Dock in our movie filmed earlier this year here or below.

Lustre by Tom Dixon

See all our stories about Tom Dixon »
See more stories about lighting »
See our Pinterest board of lamps »

Here’s some more information from Tom Dixon:


Lustre is the latest discovery in our continued exploration of extraordinary metallic finishes. The iridescent sheen is created by firing the stoneware shades at 1200°C using a top-secret glaze containing minerals and precious metals. The end result is a striking colour change effect reminiscent of peacock feathers or oil slicks on water.

The handmade process results in a totally unique and unrepeatable finish for each individual object. No two shades look the same as the glaze fixes to the stoneware in an unpredictable way. This produces a wide spectrum of colour across each light, ranging from a pale lime to a deep bottle green. It is this inherent beauty and diversity that we are championing. Each customer owns something different.

The shade reflects and refracts an extraordinary spectrum of colours both internally and when lit from outside. The first stoneware object in our collection, it is available in 4 geometric designs inspired by a collision of Mayan temples and Art Deco constructions.

Available in four shapes: Round, Square, Wedge and Flat.


Movie: Tom Dixon at The Dock

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Dezeen Studio: Sundayat MOST

Milan 2012: today is the final edition of our daily TV show from Dezeen Studio at MOST in which we round up some of the other things that have been happening during the week.

Tom Dixon demos the Digital Forming software he’s got on show that allows customers to customise their own bespoke Tom Dixon lamp or speaker and then purchase it online with the click of a button, Piers Roberts introduces the Designersblock exhibition in the cloisters of the museum and Achille Sassoli takes us on a tour of Carpigiani’s Gelato University. We also have footage of the MOST party from earlier in the week, as well as yesterday’s The Great Stamp Giveaway where 400 lucky visitors got their hands on a free Tom Dixon lamp.

Today’s music track from Dezeen Music Project is Sweet Cow (remix) by Kid Circus.

Dezeen are filming and editing all week from Dezeen Studio powered by Jambox at MOST, located at the Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia. You can find it at the address listed below.

National Museum of Science and Technology,
Via Olona 6, 20123 Milan, Italy
Entrance through Via Olona 6

Dates: Tuesday 17 April, 10AM – 9PM Wednesday 18 April, 10AM – 6PM
Thursday 19 – Saturday 21 April, 10AM – 9PM Sunday 22 April, 10AM – 6PM
Press Preview: Monday 16 April, 3PM-7PM

www.mostsalone.com