Excelsior Milano

Macaroons, emerging fashion and more at Milan’s newest shopping destination

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Of the many upcoming events planned for the Vogue-sponsored global shopping push Fashion’s Night Out, the debut of Excelsior Milano might make the biggest splash. The work of Italy’s biggest fashion retailer Gruppo Coin, the new complex is located right in the heart of the capital of fashion in a former cinema that has been totally renovated by French starchitect Jean Nouvel.

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We had the chance to visit the store before the opening to carefully observe every detail. The project is courageous and innovative; there’s a lot of empty space, proof of how the management chose to work on quality rather than quantity. Lending warmth and sophistication, the choice of lighting and materials, as well as the rhythm of volumes and surfaces, makes the space feel similar to a private art gallery.

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Antonia, well-known for her taste and ability to mix avant-garde and business, is behind the choice of brands, clothes and accessories. As a result, Excelsior Milano perfectly balances the concept boutique with a department store.

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On the first floor, the focus is on contemporary American designers (still slightly unknown in Italy) such as Theory, Rag & Bone, Alice and Olive and Vince. Mixed in among the clothing you will find home design by Skitsch and the accessories of Globe-Trotter, Mario Portolano and Antipast, as well as a Borsalino limited-edition made exclusively for Excelsior Milano. Other floors will offer more in the way of the pursuit of excellence with labels including Christian Louboutin, Giuseppe Zanotti, Jimmy Choo, Sergio Rossi, Pierre Hardy and Repetto. Also look out for items by Givenchy, Proenza Schouler, Zagliani, Marni, Chloé and Manolo Blahnik.

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The ground floor will house a bar (open until 2am), cosmetics, flowers, the luxurious Ladurée macaroons, the sophisticated L’Olfattorio bar à parfums and Tiffany & Co.

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In addition, Eat’s space is a real surprise—an actual supermarket, with fresh food, meat, fish, vegetables and wines. The restaurant will offer three dimensions, “now” for the elegant take-away, “fast” for the bistro characterized by seasonal specials, and “slow” for the more traditional restaurant, regularly hosting renowned guest chefs like Davide Oldani.

Excelsior Milano opens Thursday, 8 September 2011, and in other Italian cities over the next few years.


Sling Bag

Topo Designs’ clean one-strap backpack for comfier commuting

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Topo Designs‘ newest addition to their line of heritage-inspired bags, the sling bag, has a slim profile designed for ease of use during daily commutes. The single shoulder strap handily slips on and off when you need it, while a small stabilizer strap keeps the bag stable while wearing it messenger-style.

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Functionally speaking, leather lash tabs and seatbelt webbing pull tabs on the back are ideal for clipping on a bike light or securing excess gear—and we dig the traditional look of them. Three small interior compartments and a larger padded sleeve for iPads or slim laptops have the same minimalist feel that defines the bag’s outer shell.

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To encourage ecologically-sound production techniques and promote local the economy, Topo Design handmakes all their bags in a LEED certified building in Colorado. The sling bag comes in six rad colors, selling online through Topo Designs’ webshop for a manageable $98.

Also on Cool Hunting: Nine Falf Packs


A century of style, through dance

{via Kottke}

100 years of Style

Une excellente initiative par les magasins Westfield avec cette superbe vidéo de promotion retraçant plus de 100 ans de mode et de styles en 100 secondes. Une évolution à travers les époques dans ce montage très réussi. A découvrir en images et en vidéo dans la suite de l’article.



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Geometric Jewelry

Seven independent jewelers inspired by geometry

Sacred underlying principle of the universe or Modernist design statement, geometric-inspired jewelry makes for a good look. The following seven examples of Cartesian jewelry by independent designers perfectly add a literal edge for men and women alike.

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For an unusual—even slightly eccentric—take on accessories look to RillRill of Portland, Oregon. Each one-of-a-kind piece demands attention with gypsy-esque chain designs of delicate mixed metals. The slave bracelet wraps around the middle finger and comes in several variations, including one made of copper and miniature arrowhead charms, while the silver and gold body chain garter fastens with a hidden elastic band for freedom of movement. RillRill’s creative stylings are available directly through Etsy where they sell between $35-80.

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These unconventional triangle hoop cufflinks subtly add a modern accent to any French cuff. Forged of sterling silver and plated with black gold, these clever cufflinks sell through 360cufflink’s Etsy page for $75, also available in white gold.

Sometimes the simpler an idea, the better. Case in point, the brass bar earrings from threedeluxe. Measuring only 3/4 inch in length, each pair of raw brass earrings is small but powerful, made to order in San Francisco. Pick up a pair from Etsy for the modest price of $22.

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Large porcelain beads threaded on a sterling silver chain make this statement piece worthy of every eye in the room. The facet ball necklace is made by hand in Australia and available in multiple different sizes and colors. Contact Dani M directly for more information about her playful porcelain wares.

Brooklyn-based design team Loyalty and Blood make a variety of creative necklaces, rings, and earrings inspired by basic forms and a DIY aesthetic. The flat triangles necklace is a pleasing take on the concept of repetition. Made of brass, the 20″ necklace goes for $49 from their online shop.

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The cutest of the bunch, Stone & Honey’s tiny triangle ring is made of oxidized sterling silver with brass. Due to this oxidation process, each ring will develop its own unique patina over time, adding a little detail to the simplistic design. At just $20 each, the ring is perfect for wearing stacked or as one alone. You can find the tiny ring in their online store.

Less is more with the beautiful negative space circle tie bar. The elegant piece is constructed of highly-polished sterling silver and handmade in Israel. Head to Erga’s Etsy page to purchase the ideal piece of understated style for $52.


Herrlicht Wood Glasses

German craftsmanship meets Japanese technique for the most impeccable wooden glasses yet
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Shedding the chrome-cast cliché of futuristic style, many designers have turned to creating modern products from natural materials. A mix of high-tech techniques with artisan hand-craft has resulted in creative twists ranging from leather iPhone backs to flax bicycles. Always a medium for innovation, eyeglass frames have seen an explosion of materials both simple and complex. There’s something wonderfully tactile with wood frames, and recent designs by Drift to Shwood offer great style at a reasonable price. A recent discovery, Herrlicht‘s hand made wood frames have upped the ante, defining the epitome of craftsmanship in wood eyeglass frames.

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Advancing the accessory beyond novelty, Berlin-based designer Andreas Licht spends about a week handcrafting each pair of eyeglasses—from the lens holder to the signature four-pronged pin that enables the ease of swapping out lenses. Sculpted from several thin layers of wood and assembled using Japanese joinery techniques, the Herrlicht collection comes in maple, cherry, walnut or fumed oak in a variety of retro-inspired styles—every element of these frames (including the screws!) is made from wood. Quite durable, the frames have a slight flexibility and light weight that make them effortless to wear.

Presented in a handmade cylindrical wood case stylized after a seed pod, Licht underscores his attention to detail and distinct environmental influences; a mark that has earned him the SILMO 2011 award for excellence. As a skilled woodworker—previously working with wooden bicycles and furniture—Andreas cuts, sands and polishes each wood layer. Due to the labor-intensive integrity of the process, the Herrlicht line produces only 200 to 250 pairs of each model every year.

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Due to the high demand and limited run of the collection Herrlicht is exclusively sold at 1010 Optics in New York City and Brillenschneiderei Yves in Berlin. Each pair is pressed to indicate style, wood-type and serial number. Prices start at $1,500.


Tovar

Modern threads for the urban explorer in a designer’s debut line

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Los Angeles designer Terence Yeung brings extensive industry experience and subtle creativity to Tovar, a functional menswear line set to drop Spring 2012. Inspired by traveling and the jet-set era of modern explorers, Tovar aims to fit in with your everyday wardrobe no matter where you might be. The sizable first collection features everything from basic cotton tees and classic button-ups to slim cargo pants and sturdy water-repellant jackets, all designed with your suitcase in mind.

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Tovar takes basic outerwear up a notch, seamlessly blending intricate detailing with modern, streamlined cuts. The waxed cotton Ethan and Lucas styles are ruggedly slim-fitting, each donning an adjustable drawstring around the waist that is also hard to notice when not cinched. The shorter Ethan jacket sports a hide-away hood and waist-length cut while the longer Lucas coat removes the hood altogether for a more sophisticated silhouette. Heralding the early charm of Eddie Bauer, Tovar also has a traditional barn coat that is as well-suited for the fields of Ohio as the streets of London.

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In addition to the pure cotton coats, Tovar also proffers nylon water-repellent windbreakers in multiple colorways as well as a jean jacket, aptly named the James (shown here in washed denim).

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Hitting a moderate price-point with jackets set to sell for around $200, with knits and pants priced at around $100, Tovar’s debut line will be available starting mid-January 2012. . For more information check out the Tovar website.


String Theory

Geometric-patterned scarves and throws by two Montreal textile designers

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Pairing mathematics with craftsmanship, the textile designers behind Montreal label String Theory weave quality yarns into beautifully-patterned super-soft scarves and throw blankets. The two-person team behind the brand works closely with small-batch manufacturers, allowing for wide experimentation with techniques. This artful combination of tradition and innovation results in everyday accessories with Modernist geometric appeal.

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Though the designers recently played around with a beautiful blue tone, currently String Theory’s Euclidean designs come in simple black and gray motifs, using mostly Alpaca, cotton and bamboo. Initial designs include intricate String Theory 101 scarf, which mimics the weaving process, and the Big Mess throw, an elegantly scrambled composition.

String Theory sells online, ranging from $120-320.


Daily Obsesh – Marc by Marc Jacobs 10th Anniversary Apple Studs

imageHappy Anniversary to Marc by Marc Jacobs!!!


The eponymous diffusion line is now a decade old (!) and it’s been 10 years of total trend setting. From must-have handbags to bold baubles and trinkets, Marc by Marc Jacobs came on to the downtown scene and absolutely took over to redefine what it means to be ‘super cool’.


So celebrate this legendary designer with these rose gold plated apple stud earrings (they also come in silver). The pretty pink posts feature pave crystals and green enamel inlay apple leaves. They perfectly epitomize the inspiration that this famous collection gets from all things retro and whimsical.


As they say, good things come in small packages!



Where to BuyShopBop



Price – $58.00



Who Melimeli was the first to add the Marc by Marc Jacobs 10th Anniversary Apple Studs to the Hive.

Malia Mills

Inside a swimsuit design studio in the heart of NYC’s garment district
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“Save the Garment Center” urges the sign in the middle of swimsuit designer Malia Mills’ garment-district studio in New York City. Haphazardly stuck in one of the many racks of patterns that fill the workspace among rolls of fabric, sketches and other evidence of a busy design hub, the sign reads like a battle cry for the eponymous 20-year-old line. Mills, a poster child for what it means to live and work as a fashion designer in the city, built her brand over the decades through a combination of grit, ingenuity and her vision of making great-fitting suits for women.

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The journey for Mills started unconventionally at Cornell University, where she studied apparel design, constructing everything from scuba suits to skirts. As a supplement to the problem-solving skills the program instilled, she learned the art of tailoring at Paris’ renowned school for haute couture, The Chambre Syndicale. Once landing in New York, a long road of alliances and luck helped get her where she is today. Landlords that let her go without paying rent for six months, the Tribeca restaurant where she waitressed that let her use their office, and a mentor in Theory founder Andrew Rosen all helped the business grow into the 10-store-strong label that it is today.

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But of course the real backbone of Malia Mills is design. While education gave Mills the highly technical background needed for such a challenging garment, the founder traces her aesthetic to two pivotal childhood experiences with swimwear. Her first bikini, a lemon-yellow number received for Christmas in 1976, followed by a hot pink two-piece that stood out among the Speedos of 1980, helped define a look for women that’s as much about style as it is about function.

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The sensibility has to do with the kind of thoughtfulness that goes into good design. On our recent visit, the designer jumped up to pull out a college assignment on fashion designer Claire McCardell, who Mills cites as a huge influence on her approach. McCardell’s philosophy of “honing your senses” is advice Mills still gives to every new hire.

To pull it all off, Mills credits the “massive luxury” of being in the Garment Center as a key factor that “truly facilitated the growth of the business.” Her tops-by-bra-size approach and goal of fitting almost every body type means she has to be completely hands-on throughout the entire production process. “What we’re making is such a tactile thing,” she explains. Even the smallest discrepancy in yardage can make a huge difference in fit.

See more of the designer’s early stylings, current collection, and more in the photo gallery.

by Karen Day and Ami Kealoha

Photos by Karen Day