Fall brings with it the promise of travel getaways, from weekend leaf-peeping to warmer-weather escapes. Wherever you may go this season the right bag is key. We’ve gathered a variety of American-made options to pack for weekend jaunts and extended holidays, presenting a different one each day this week….
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In an industry built on traditionalism and heritage before innovation, G-Star RAW continues to push the envelope with next-generation design. When the company first introduced the Elwood in 1996, the denim world hadn’t seen a jean with articulated and reinforced knees. Rather than stopping there, G-Star…
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Nineteenth-century lithographic curiosities reborn for home and fashion
The 19th-century biologist Ernst Haeckel is credited with categorizing thousands of species, creating a genealogical tree that unites all life and coining the world “ecology.” But his prominence in the scientific community is matched by his cultural legacy: Haeckel’s lithographs of rare creatures have become emblematic of the Victorian…
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Cheeky, artisan-made grooming tools from Berlin’s Institute for the Blind
The Institute for the Blind in Berlin workshop produces a line of grooming brushes demonstrative of both their rich heritage and sense of humor, using the same materials and techniques passed down for the last 120 years. Housed in the former Home for the Blind in Berlin, the factory…
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Recycled sails from Maine fused with Pennsylvania wool in a line of new bags
Since its start in 2005, Sea Bags has spawned a number of imitations, but unlike its competitors Sea Bags still uses only retired sails for its durable, handmade totes and accessories. Now the Portland, Maine-based brand has partnered with fellow East Coast company, Woolrich, marrying its weathered nylon with…
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Heritage Irish potato spirit from a one-man distillery
Resurrecting a rare Irish spirit in the Bay Area is no easy feat, and distiller Salvatore Cimino isn’t the most likely candidate either. The third-generation distiller is of Sicilian descent, and decided to try creating the potato-based “poitín” (pot-cheen) at the behest of a friend who presented him with a heritage recipe. Having experienced some success with a duo of Prohibition-era rye whiskeys, Cimino created “Signature Poitín” as part of his one-man distilling operation 1512 Spirits. His methods bring a new meaning to the phrase “hand-crafted”, overseeing the entire process in a 700-square-foot space.
A barber by day, Cimino named the distillery 1512 after his shop, working on his spirits during off-hours. Using 95% potatoes, Cimino begins by juicing the spuds and cooking the liquid over a direct flame. He then adds hand-milled barley and cooks his mash, leaving it to ferment for three or four days. The mixture is separated by hand and double-distilled before it is proofed at 104. The process recalls the heritage of Irish farmers who would make this spirit with local materials and resources. While the Signature Poitín is high effort and low yield, Cimino is sticking to his artisanal guns.
Poitín—Irish Gaelic for “small pot”—isn’t a delicate spirit. The flavor is robust, heavy on potato with floral notes thrown in between. While some will find it too raw and one-dimensional, others will appreciate the honesty of flavor that comes through, which is similar to that of a single-varietal vodka. Fans of the poitín enjoy it in a hot toddy, warm it up to expose the floral flavors or drink it neat alongside oysters. The drink is a true eau de vie—more likely to wake you up after a meal than tuck you in for bed.
The next release from 1512 Spirits will feature a rare wheat whiskey, which has been aged in ex-rye barrels. With batches that are limited to around 85 bottles, the level of craft goes well beyond single-barrel whiskeys. 1512 Spirits’ Signature Poitín can be found at select retailers and online through Cask Spirits.
Iconic British menswear label opens its first London flagship
Two hundred and fifty-seven years after launching, British menswear brand Wolsey opened the doors last night to their first flagship store in London. Located on Brewer Street in the heart of Soho, the store’s aesthetics mirrors the brand’s ethos: contemporary styling of iconic classics. Brushed steel beams, exposed brick walls, aged wooden tables and original draper’s cabinets combine to create the perfect backdrop for the range of quality menswear.
Drawing inspiration from Wolsey’s original Leicester factory (now the location of its brand operations), the store also features a wealth of salvaged, prismatic pendants, 1940s industrial light fixtures and Persian rugs. Down a small flight of stairs and located just outside the exposed brick changing rooms are two vintage leather armchairs separated by a reclaimed-wood table housing men’s fashion titles. Adorning the walls of both floors are framed prints of original Wolsey adverts, old and new campaigns, inscribed wooden boards telling its history and images of some of the explorers and pioneers who helped build its identity.
“We’re very proud of the heritage the brand has,” says Brand Director Stephen Reed. “While we are steering the brand in a new direction with the design of the latest collections, we’re making sure we keep the classic heritage and attention to detail
that has fueled Wolsey’s longevity.”
Attention to detail is key to the success Wolsey has achieved, and it’s a thread sewn throughout the latest collection. Classic woolen jumpers and cotton gilets are injected with modernity through wider necklines and narrower silhouettes. Double-breasted navy blazers—complete with nautical gold buttons at the cuff—and plaid cotton shirts transform a traditional tailored look into today’s casually refined aesthetic. Leather accessories have been designed with today’s technological devices in mind, and the classic urban hoodie has been tweaked with chunky herringbone draw cords, 320gm heavy cotton and ribbed cuffs.
“Our designs are modern and fresh while also being classic and iconic. It’s the choice of material or the details in a button that gives each piece its individuality,” says Reed. “The Wolsey guy is cool and subtly stylish. He takes the classic staples we create and puts his own twist on them.”
Wolsey
83a Brewer Street
London, W1F 9ZN
Moscow’s interactive museum dedicated to video game nostalgia of the late regime
Six years ago two young friends from Moscow were reminiscing about a favorite stand-up arcade game from their youth in the late ’80s and early ’90s. Few are aware of the fact that while the Soviet Union was in its final days, its military factories were churning out arcade games with names like Морской Бой
“Sea Battle” and снайпер “Sniper” that were strikingly similar to the ones enjoyed by their ideological enemies in the United States.
The group of friends found a broken-down Sea Battle game in a shuttered arcade park and were able to buy the machine for the cost of moving it. Fast forward to 2012 and these friends now operate the Museum of Soviet Arcade Machines in Moscow, where about 40 games click, whirr, whistle, flash and beep to the delight of visitors from around the world.
Few of the machines are video games with computer microprocessors—instead they rely on servos, wheels, levers and all manners of moving parts that were all cutting-edge technology when released in the ’70s, up until 1991 in the final days of the Soviet Union.
“Sea Battle was made at a factory that made real rocket guidance systems for the Soviet Navy,” says 29-year-old Alexandr Stakhanov, museum director and one of the founders. “Military factories had a lot of free personnel and resources and they had to find ways to maintain levels of production.”
Sea Battle can be played online, but others like the slightly less sporting Танкодром “Tank Training”—in which players drive a real plastic tank around a field blasting an array of parked military vehicles—and Воздушный Бой “Aerial Combat” are likely only available to operate at the museum.
The museum’s beginnings were modest—Moscow State Technical University, where Stakhanov studied economics, donated the use of a disused bomb shelter. There, Stakhanov and his team pieced the units together, often cannibalizing three or four machines into one working specimen. Stakhanov doesn’t hold onto any nostalgia for those early days. “It was a terrible place, broken down—there were no windows,” he says.
For the past six months the museum has found a home in an airy, 3,660-square-foot former industrial building in a quiet neighborhood in eastern Moscow. Natural light pours in and restored vending machines sell artificially colored tarragon and pear flavored sodas.
Visitors are given a cup of Soviet-minted 15 kopek pieces and set loose to explore and play the various games, whether shooting down N.A.T.O. jets or playing goalie for the Soviet hockey team, it’s the standard adolescent male fantasy world—and a treat for pop culture and history buffs—delivered at the drop of a coin.
The team is constantly traveling across Russia looking for potential museum additions or spare parts to keep the games functioning, and their blog (translated from Russian) offers ongoing updates on new and improved games.
The Museum of Soviet Arcade Machines is located at Baumanskaya St., 11, Moscow, Russia.
Reworking the all-American five-pocket jean
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Having built a brand based on better-fitting pants, Bonobos recently sought out to rethink the five-pocket jean. For the Premium Denim collection the brand made sure to incorporate the Bonobos fit—marked by a more tailored thigh for an athletic fit that’s not too tight or baggy, and a comfortable mid-rise—and it was important that this line be produced in the U.S. Not only was denim born here, but domestic construction gave Bonobos the chance to oversee every detail and produce a truly unique style of pant. More than anything, the team focused on creating a pair of well-constructed jeans with a democratic fit and a reasonable price point starting at $125. From today through 23 March 2012, new customers can visit Bonobos’ website to get 25% off Premium Denim with the code COOLHUNTING25.
Cone Denim’s White Oak Mill in North Carolina marks one of the last strongholds of U.S.-made denim and the go-to supplier for top-quality fabrics. The century-old mill produced a solid, supple 12.25-oz fabric for Bonobos that acts as the cornerstone of the new line. The hardware comes from YKK’s U.S. branch, using a classic shank front closure.
From there, Bonobos headed to Caitac in Los Angeles, a Japanese-owned hub for high-end denim. They started with the basics—a resin rinse jean in straight-leg fit without any dry processing—and expanded from there. The distressing on their medium and light washes is done by hand, sanded to create a more comfortable fabric and light whiskering on the hip. Opting for a simpler look, Bonobos nixed the logo in favor of a subtle contrast stitch box pattern on the waistband.
Bonobos successfully translated the success of their trousers to the new line of jeans, which come in straight, slim and bootcut styles. They kept the washes conservative and the branding minimal, but threw in a few denim-head details like the busted seam stitch on the outseam. Contrast stitching on the interior and nautical-inspired pocket bags with the motto “Conceived in NYC, Born in LA” keep in line with the company’s playful attitude.
This spring, Bonobos is bringing in more washes with detailing to go with warmer weather—April will mark the launch of a selvedge style with a weightier fabric, and they’ll introduce two new spring washes. In addition to Premium Denim, for those looking for more colorful options, Bonobos’ recently launched “travel denim” comes in light and mid-weight fabrics with a hint of stretch, in a range of garment-dyed colors.
Head over to Bonobos Premium Denim to see the goods and take advantage of the 25% discount for new customers with the code COOLHUNTING25 through 23 March 2012.
A contemporary twist on Bosnian Konjic furniture-making
Having survived WWII, the rise and fall of communism and the breakup of Yugoslavia, Bosnian furniture line Manulution has established an enduring legacy. Last spring, the company caused a stir at the International Contemporary Furniture Fair (ICFF), and is now launching American operations from its Washington, D.C. headquarters. With a history of handcrafted wood furniture dating back to 1927 under parent company Rukotvorine (“handcrafts” in English), the avant-garde collection promises to be a big hit for North Americans yearning for some old-world regal craftsmanship.
A large part of Manulution’s appeal lies in their impeccable track record. With pieces often lasting across three generations, their collection runs in stark contrast to the recent surge of self-assembled disposable furniture. The wood is responsibly sourced from local Bosnian growers, mostly comprising old trees that have ceased to bear fruit and are ready to be replaced with younger saplings. Manulution also reclaims their old furniture from previous owners for resale to discerning antique collectors to ensure that their products never end up in a landfill.
The company has three distinct lines that show a range of aesthetic leanings. The traditional selection features hyper-intricate detailing on ottoman tea tables and chairs while the modern and artisanal collections err on the side of pared-down modernism. Unique to this level of craftsmanship are virtually seamless joints, which give the pieces a fluid finish. The technique draws from the Bosnian tradition of Konjic woodcarving, which is currently under consideration for UNESCO’s World Intangible Cultural Heritage List.
Some of Manulution’s pieces are available at the Mondo Collection in NYC and Haute Living in Chicago. Anthropologie has just started carrying Manulution’s “wave table,” a unique dining piece that features embedded “pockets” that swivel on the table’s planar surface to hold flowers, condiments, or other dinner-time essentials.
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