Salvor Projects Update

Reconnecting with our favorite screen printing fashion designer
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With the recent opening of their first official storefront, Salvor Projects has come a long way since founding designer Ross Menuez began the underground screen printing operation some years ago. With time and dedication came refinement and a narrowing of skills, placing the art-based fashion label in a category of its own. Centered on a combination of kaleidoscopic colors and Cy Twombly-esque designs, Salvor offers an ever growing line of screen printed men and womenswear, bags and footwear as varied as the brand’s audience.

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In the beginning Menuez used other brands’ fabrics and materials to silkscreen onto, printing his own designs to form the first products branded with the Salvor namesake. Through the years Menuez’s screen printed tees and house wears have been sold through various retailers like Brooklyn-based Areaware and Kiosk. Although the retail venue has changed some, the evolution of his technique and skill haven’t strayed far from their roots—screen printing is the still basis for all Salvor products.

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Now designing and producing all their own garments from start to finish, Salvor’s long list of garments and accessories are reaching a higher level of quality and sophistication than ever before. Experimenting with leathers, canvas, cotton and even neoprene, each piece is as unique as the process by which it is created.

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On display in the recently opened Salvor Projects’ store—located on Forsyth Street in NYC’s Lower East Side—is a wide array of unique garments, bags and footwear peppered with a small selection of Menuez’s industrial design projects. The shop’s stark monotone design allows the garments to take center stage while still making a distinct statement about the brand’s industrial background.

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For more looks at the recent retail venture and some of Salvor’s more exciting threads check the gallery.

photos by Greg Stefano


Title of Work

A new collection of handcrafted menswear combines style, art and sophistication
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If designer Jonathan Meizler had his way, subtle elements of couture would be a part of every man’s wardrobe. In Title of Work—Meizler’s new menswear label—opulent beadwork, Swarovski crystals and black diamonds embellish English wool crepe, Italian cashmere and silk twill ties and bowties.

After studying art and design in Vienna and London, the Massachusetts native returned to the States where he co-founded JonValdi to industry acclaim. Expanding from hand-painted ties to a fully developed sportswear collection for both men and women, he later created a women’s evening wear line exclusively sold at Bergdorf Goodman. Now the NYC-based designer has returned to his menswear roots with the line of luxurious ties, showcasing his background in couture and a talent for understated flair.

The Title of Work collection is now available online and at Neiman Marcus, hitting select retailers in the United States, Canada and Japan later this fall. Read below to learn more about where Meizler draws his inspiration from and the future of his new line.

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You call Title of Work “architectural jewelry.” Can you elaborate?

Architecture is a constant inspiration on both a personal and work-related level—from the Egyptian pyramids to Italy’s basilicas, the humor and function of Gaudi, the fluidity of Noguchi and Zaha Hadid, and Gehry’s postmodernist vibe. I am drawn toward symmetry in the asymmetrical. I feel the most successful of my collection incorporates this structure while integrating jeweled elements, achieving simplicity in the ornate.

What couture techniques do you apply to the ties?

I created Title of Work to explore the craftsmanship of a well-made product, similar to that of a couturier, where each piece is hand finished. Hand-beaded techniques—primarily used in women’s clothing and accessories—are rarely employed in menswear. With this first Title of Work collection, I wanted to establish that beading for men could be modern and accessible, while pushing the boundaries of masculinity.

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The collection looks labor intensive, tell us about the process of fabrication.

It is. For example, one of the signature pieces in the collection is a hand-cast sterling silver grommet with Swarovski crystals, attached by a jeweler who hand welds each sterling grommet around the crystal. There is little room for error. All of the collection is handmade and beaded, so no two ties are completely the same.

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What’s missing from the menswear market that your line fulfills?

When creating a collection, I think it is important to be as specific as possible, especially in defining one’s point of view in an overly saturated market. I saw an untapped niche in neckwear and felt it was the ideal foundation to build from. As a designer, I take pleasure in the challenge of straddling the line of art and commerce, and I have hopefully created an approachable collection that is subtly sophisticated, modern, sexy and refined.

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What do future Title of Work projects entail?

I currently have bowties in the collection, and for spring, I am expanding on that and creating sterling and black diamond cufflinks based on the amulets you see across the line. I am also in the midst of designing a bag collection. A bit raw and deconstructed, but, of course, beautifully finished with hand-cast hardware. On the other side, I am creating furniture, made from reconstructed wood, glass, metals and dead animals. I am obsessed with grommets, ventilators and industrial elements, so this should be interesting.


Woodblock Chocolate

Portland’s micro-chocolatiers with a knack for DIY innovation

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A few years ago in the DIY paradise of Portland, Oregon, Jessica and Charley Wheelock began cultivating an idea. If home brewers and coffee roasters were dotting the national food scene with successful independent businesses, why were there so few independent artisanal chocolate makers? The two cobbled together repurposed coffee and grain equipment together with information culled from the Internet, starting Woodblock Chocolate a little over a year ago.

“Even Theo and Scharffen Berger are massive compared to what we’re doing,” said Charley on a recent sunny afternoon in his kitchen in south Portland. In the background, their melangeur—originally a grain grinder from India—whirs gently as it conches a fresh batch. A coffee roaster ticking on a sideboard releases the warm smell of home-roasted cacao beans. “There are maybe 20 artisanal chocolate shops in the country at our level,” added Jessica.

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Woodblock Chocolate currently operates out of the Wheelocks’ home. Although they work around the clock to produce chocolate at a rate of two kilos every 72 hours, demand has proven so strong that they’re currently in negotiations to expand their operations only a year after opening. “Our children beg us not to talk about chocolate,” laughed Jessica. “But they’re pretty psyched about our work.”

The couple’s success relies on three things: Charley’s handiness with machinery (he’s currently working on a homemade winnower prototype in the garage, designed to quickly husk the roasted beans), their shared background in design and, of course, their chocolate. The bars are denoted by percentage of cocoa and where the beans were grown. The salted 70% La Red D.R., from the Dominican Republic is smokier and tangier than the Mantuano, but both are just barely sweet, with a hint of fleur de sel.

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Charley brought in a tray of just-roasted beans and broke one open. The dark nibs taste so richly and strongly of chocolate that it’s hard to imagine they can need any further embellishment. “Sugar and these nibs, that’s all that’s in there,” Jessica said. If direct-sourcing coffee beans hasn’t yet changed the world, perhaps it’s chocolate’s turn to give it a try.

Woodblock Chocolate can be found in-store at Olympic Provisions, Cacao, and online at The Meadow.

Also on Cool Hunting: The Mast Brothers


Geometric Jewelry

Seven independent jewelers inspired by geometry

Sacred underlying principle of the universe or Modernist design statement, geometric-inspired jewelry makes for a good look. The following seven examples of Cartesian jewelry by independent designers perfectly add a literal edge for men and women alike.

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For an unusual—even slightly eccentric—take on accessories look to RillRill of Portland, Oregon. Each one-of-a-kind piece demands attention with gypsy-esque chain designs of delicate mixed metals. The slave bracelet wraps around the middle finger and comes in several variations, including one made of copper and miniature arrowhead charms, while the silver and gold body chain garter fastens with a hidden elastic band for freedom of movement. RillRill’s creative stylings are available directly through Etsy where they sell between $35-80.

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These unconventional triangle hoop cufflinks subtly add a modern accent to any French cuff. Forged of sterling silver and plated with black gold, these clever cufflinks sell through 360cufflink’s Etsy page for $75, also available in white gold.

Sometimes the simpler an idea, the better. Case in point, the brass bar earrings from threedeluxe. Measuring only 3/4 inch in length, each pair of raw brass earrings is small but powerful, made to order in San Francisco. Pick up a pair from Etsy for the modest price of $22.

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Large porcelain beads threaded on a sterling silver chain make this statement piece worthy of every eye in the room. The facet ball necklace is made by hand in Australia and available in multiple different sizes and colors. Contact Dani M directly for more information about her playful porcelain wares.

Brooklyn-based design team Loyalty and Blood make a variety of creative necklaces, rings, and earrings inspired by basic forms and a DIY aesthetic. The flat triangles necklace is a pleasing take on the concept of repetition. Made of brass, the 20″ necklace goes for $49 from their online shop.

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The cutest of the bunch, Stone & Honey’s tiny triangle ring is made of oxidized sterling silver with brass. Due to this oxidation process, each ring will develop its own unique patina over time, adding a little detail to the simplistic design. At just $20 each, the ring is perfect for wearing stacked or as one alone. You can find the tiny ring in their online store.

Less is more with the beautiful negative space circle tie bar. The elegant piece is constructed of highly-polished sterling silver and handmade in Israel. Head to Erga’s Etsy page to purchase the ideal piece of understated style for $52.


Herrlicht Wood Glasses

German craftsmanship meets Japanese technique for the most impeccable wooden glasses yet
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Shedding the chrome-cast cliché of futuristic style, many designers have turned to creating modern products from natural materials. A mix of high-tech techniques with artisan hand-craft has resulted in creative twists ranging from leather iPhone backs to flax bicycles. Always a medium for innovation, eyeglass frames have seen an explosion of materials both simple and complex. There’s something wonderfully tactile with wood frames, and recent designs by Drift to Shwood offer great style at a reasonable price. A recent discovery, Herrlicht‘s hand made wood frames have upped the ante, defining the epitome of craftsmanship in wood eyeglass frames.

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Advancing the accessory beyond novelty, Berlin-based designer Andreas Licht spends about a week handcrafting each pair of eyeglasses—from the lens holder to the signature four-pronged pin that enables the ease of swapping out lenses. Sculpted from several thin layers of wood and assembled using Japanese joinery techniques, the Herrlicht collection comes in maple, cherry, walnut or fumed oak in a variety of retro-inspired styles—every element of these frames (including the screws!) is made from wood. Quite durable, the frames have a slight flexibility and light weight that make them effortless to wear.

Presented in a handmade cylindrical wood case stylized after a seed pod, Licht underscores his attention to detail and distinct environmental influences; a mark that has earned him the SILMO 2011 award for excellence. As a skilled woodworker—previously working with wooden bicycles and furniture—Andreas cuts, sands and polishes each wood layer. Due to the labor-intensive integrity of the process, the Herrlicht line produces only 200 to 250 pairs of each model every year.

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Due to the high demand and limited run of the collection Herrlicht is exclusively sold at 1010 Optics in New York City and Brillenschneiderei Yves in Berlin. Each pair is pressed to indicate style, wood-type and serial number. Prices start at $1,500.


Oji & Design

Form and function meet in a Japanese architect’s beautifully understated housewares

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Japanese designer Oji Masanori makes everyday living more comfortable, designing a range of objects in various materials that are as refined as they are functional. Graduating with degree in architecture, Masanori seemingly applies those tactics to building small objects, starting with the foundation and allowing the beauty of its shape to lead the design.

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His studio, Oji & Design, works with Japan’s preeminent manufacturers to ensure the quality he instills during the initial design isn’t lost during production. Spanning bottle openers ($40), lighting pendants ($450) and a knife keeper ($300), for his brass objects Masanori collaborated with the metal workers at Futagami in Toyama-Takaoka City, who have over a century of experience with hand-casting objects that will develop a distinctly beautiful patina over time.

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The young designer looked to the skilled woodworker Hidetoshi Takahashi to craft the Bagel trivets ($80), who meticulously carved Japanese maple, cherry or walnut into perfectly round trivets with smooth flat bottoms. The bagels are great for their intended purpose or as wall decorations when hung by the attached leather string.

Masanori carries out his concepts to the very last detail, doing all of the graphic work and packaging himself. Oji & Design objects sell at various retailers around Japan, and online at Merchant No. 4 and Mjölk.


Little Horn Speakers

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Some very unique speakers from Chicago’s Specimen. Little Horns are handcrafted entirely in Chicago, Illinois.

These horns turn the audio world upside down. They posses a life-like soundstage unlike anything ever heard. With the Little Horn Speakers, the soundstage gets bigger, the instruments spread apart, the stage unfolds.

A special inverted design enables the low frequencies to emerge at the top of the enclosure. An octagonally fluted horn carries them upward and lets them flourish into the room. The immense structural rigidity of the horns octagonal geometry minimizes resonances yet allows sound waves to expand freely the way nature intended. There is simply something beautiful here, not just bass frequency reproduction, but a spatial imaging that belies the speaker’s size.

See construction process.