Albert Zuger

Roughshod elegance marks a designer’s handmade jewelry
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In Albert Zuger‘s jewelry you can see Aphrodite taking Hephaestus’ hand; it is a heavenly marriage of beauty and the forge. The Toronto-based designer hammers out earrings, necklaces, rings and bracelets in bronze that carry an unpretentious elegance, marks of the hammer, and the spirit of the American craftsmanship.

Zuger’s involvement with jewelry began with an actual wedding—his own. As a metalworker since high school and a sculptor by trade, when he proposed to his wife, Sasha Suda, he didn’t feel it was right for them to wear rings he hadn’t made himself. What he produced, and what now rests on both of their fingers, features hundreds of layers of several steel alloys, with a lining of gold peeking out around the edge. Those who saw the ring went mad for it, and Zuger—who was leaving his metal fabrication outfit in New York for Suda’s hometown of Toronto—saw an opportunity to start a new career that combined his love of sculpture, jewelry and traditional metalwork.

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“I’ve been a metalworker since age 15,” says Zuger, who moved to Kansas City as a teenager and volunteered with historic blacksmith shop there. Meanwhile, he took every jewelry design class his high school offered and learned to weld in a metal fabrication studio before driving his 1950 Ford pickup to the Pratt Institute in Brooklyn, where he studied sculpture. After college, he opened his own metal fabrication business in an 1850s warehouse in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, fabricating elements of artists’ large-scale sculptures, ornate arch metalwork, and unique structures like a pair of giant bronze doors for an Upper East Side mansion.

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Zuger works all of this experience into his jewelry design, citing Samuel Maloof, and the revival of the American Arts and Crafts movement in the 1950s as his inspiration. “I see myself more than anything else as a sculptor,” he says. “I wouldn’t call myself a jeweler.” Whether sculptural pieces or jewelry, the resulting golden bangles, rings and collar necklaces befit strong women from Gramercy to “Game of Thrones” (there are also shoehorns, keychains, and cufflinks for all). Their details and refinement speak to a marked sophistication, but their hand-hammered shape and construction speak to a deep connection to the process in which they were crafted.

“I’m inspired by Calder, Noguchi, Hans Hofman. It’s a cultural exploration of form and surface in a wearable sort of way,” says Zuger.

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For Zuger, the key is in the craftsmanship. “Every surface has been changed from what it started out as. It’s a transformative process that creates these objects that are both and very sculptural,” he says. “The most important thing to me is to have my hands in the stuff, to be actually making it. Having studied sculpture and making things all these years, that’s what I enjoy most. It’s all hand-hammered. I don’t have other people cast stuff. I don’t have other people do my stamping.”

With no disrespect to David Yurman or Chanel (fine, some disrespect), or even the smaller, trendy jewelry-makers—the Pamela Loves, the Philip Crangis—I believe this is what is called a labor of love.


Dezeen archive: gold

Dezeen archive: gold

Dezeen archive: we’ve noticed a trend in golden buildings recently, including The Hive by Feilden Clegg Bradley Studios and Maidstone Museum East Wing by Hugh Broughton Architects just this week, so we thought we’d round up all our stories that feature a lavish use of golden materials. See all the stories »

See all our archive stories »

TC+ BJ = 23 Art Intervention

Artist Tofer Chin shrinks his trademark stalagmites for a set of rings befitting Bijules
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Artist Tofer Chin‘s signature stalagmites have taken many forms over the years—as massive installations popping off gallery walls and planted in parks, and as the geometric force breaking up mathematically-derived Op Art patterns in mind-bending paintings. But the LA-based artist’s sharp expressions, on view in his current solo show “Totally“, are about to receive a fashionable change-up from Bijules‘ NYC-based jewelry designer Jules Kim.

For one night only, the collaborative duo will present “TC+ BJ = 23 Art Intervention“, shrinking Chin’s stalagmites to serve as stands for a limited-edition set of Bijules gold rings. The elegantly irreverent designer explains, “I am excited and honored to have a respected contemporary allow me into his sacred space and to trust my direction wholeheartedly.” Perpetually “collaborating in spirit and friendship” since meeting in Chin’s LA studio years ago, the pair pull off a seamless exchange between art and fashion.

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Each of the 23 gold rings is signed and numbered by the two artists and comes with a Tofer Chin miniature stalagmite. Check them out at NYC’s Lu Magnus Gallery 10 February 2012, where they will be on view as part of Chin’s exhibition through 17 February 2012, or pick one up now from the Bijules web shop for $600. RSVP for the opening through Good People.

Photos courtesy of BHP


Boca do Lobo Limited Edition

The tale of Portugal told through a mosaic of historical tiles

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Portuguese design brand Boca do Lobo has once again created a statement piece incorporating extravagant, modern design details with grand stature. The heritage sideboard emulates the historic blue and white tile-work used in the brand’s previously released heritage cabinet and adapts it to the sideboard’s asymmetrically stacked surfaces. Each protruding column depicts a different period of Portuguese history, creating a rich collage of patterns and vignettes.

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The inside of the cupboard matches its grand exterior, lined with gold leaf to pay homage to the country’s traditional ornate architecture erected during wealthier eras.

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Pricing and details for the hefty heritage sideboard—measuring 162 cm x 90 cm x 50 cm—can be obtained by contacting Boca do Lobo
online.


Gold Fireflies

En utilisant une vitesse d’obturation lente, des lucioles ont pu être photographiées à divers endroits autour du Japon, notamment dans les préfectures de Maniwa et Okayama. Un rendu simple et très réussi à découvrir dans la suite de l’article.



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Jewelry by Eric Saeter

Handcrafted rings inspired by surreal structures and existential themes
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Influenced by existential Nouvelle Vague films and the dark Northwest wilderness, Eric Saeter‘s eponymous jewelry line is marked by rich detail and surreal structures. The Seattle native was initially driven to the trade in 2008 by what he felt was a lack of inspiring jewelry on the market. Since then his work has continued to grow in its level of craftsmanship and unique, unisex style.

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Saeter uses only solid sterling silver, 22k and 24k gold vermeil—rather than finger-staining bronze, nickel or pewter—throughout the collection for a weighty effect, casting each piece in a series of molds and finishing it by hand. The holistic, hand-crafted approach ensures no two rings are alike, each earning its own naturalistic character in singular imperfections and blemishes. The Earthworm ring pays proper homage to the mother of mulch with deep ridges on a substantial band, showcasing the designer’s knack for detail and texture.

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The geometric Salt riffs on the jagged natural crystal of the ocean in gold vermeil with smooth surfaces and softer edges. My personal favorite, this statement piece bears tiny witness marks that help create an organic aesthetic reminiscent of something one might find deep in the mountains of Mordor.

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Playing on themes of mortality, Snakes is a “textural serpent” devouring itself in a coil of intricately detailed scaled bands. The Oyster hides two small pearls deep inside the ring’s structure, kept safely close to the hand and away from the prying eye.

Jewelry by Eric Saeter is available in select boutiques and directly through his online shop where rings range between $355 and $515.


Silencio by David Lynch

Silencio by David Lynch

American movie director David Lynch has completed a nightclub in Paris that’s inspired by and named after Club Silencio from his 2001 film Mulholland Drive.

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Members descend six flights of stairs to the basement of 142 rue de Montmartre, a former publishing press where Emile Zola printed his famous headline J’accuse in 1898. The location is steeped in history: 17th century playwright Molière was reportedly buried there and socialist leader Jean Jaurès was murdered just across the street in 1914.

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The curved walls are lined with wooden blocks coated in gold leaf and Lynch has furnished the bar with his own chair designs. The venue incorporates a cinema, a stage, a forest-like smoking room and a library. It will host films, art and performances in a program developed with Lynch.

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Silencio opens to members on 6 October and membership will cost between €420 and €1500.

Here are some more details from the club’s owners Savoir Faire:


Situated in the heart of historic Paris, 142 rue Montmartre is a mythical address that was once home to two influential leftist newspapers, L’Humanité and L’Aurore, which was famous for printing Émile Zola’s “J’Accuse.”

Today, Arnaud Frisch, manager of the Social Club and the music production company Savoir Faire, endeavours to give this abandoned landmark back its soul with the opening of SILENCIO, a club whose interior was designed by multidisciplinary artist David Lynch.

While its name offers a sly allusion to the club from the director’s 2001 Academy Award nominated film Mullholland Drive, SILENCIO in Paris stands alone as the realisation of his vision for a unique club experience.

The 2,100-square-foot space consists of a series of intimate rooms, each dedicated to a certain purpose or atmosphere, including a live stage with a reflective dance floor, an intimate art library, a cocooned sitting lounge, a spacious 24-seat cinema scheduled by MK2, and more.

Each room evokes Lynch’s visual style through an incisive composition of architecture, furniture, artwork, texture and lighting, a look he achieved working with designer Raphael Navot, architectural agency Enia and light designer Thierry Dreyfus.

Lynch also created three original furniture designs showcased at SILENCIO: “Black Birds” a series of asymmetric faceted black-leather seats and tables; “Wire” a collection of welcoming seats and sofas; and an ergonomic cinema seat that refines the movie-going experience. In addition, the main entrance hall, bar and lounges all feature carpeting with edging designed by Lynch. All furniture and materials were made-to-measure especially for SILENCIO by craftsmen from prestigious firms such as Domeau & Pérès and Ateliers Gohard.

SILENCIO is open daily from 6pm to 6am. Until midnight, the club is reserved exclusively for cardholders and their guests, who can enjoy unlimited access to concerts, films and other performances.


See also:

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Dude Cigar Bar
by Studiomake
M.N.ROY by Picault
and Godefroy
Paramount by
Tom Dixon

Geometric Jewelry

Seven independent jewelers inspired by geometry

Sacred underlying principle of the universe or Modernist design statement, geometric-inspired jewelry makes for a good look. The following seven examples of Cartesian jewelry by independent designers perfectly add a literal edge for men and women alike.

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For an unusual—even slightly eccentric—take on accessories look to RillRill of Portland, Oregon. Each one-of-a-kind piece demands attention with gypsy-esque chain designs of delicate mixed metals. The slave bracelet wraps around the middle finger and comes in several variations, including one made of copper and miniature arrowhead charms, while the silver and gold body chain garter fastens with a hidden elastic band for freedom of movement. RillRill’s creative stylings are available directly through Etsy where they sell between $35-80.

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These unconventional triangle hoop cufflinks subtly add a modern accent to any French cuff. Forged of sterling silver and plated with black gold, these clever cufflinks sell through 360cufflink’s Etsy page for $75, also available in white gold.

Sometimes the simpler an idea, the better. Case in point, the brass bar earrings from threedeluxe. Measuring only 3/4 inch in length, each pair of raw brass earrings is small but powerful, made to order in San Francisco. Pick up a pair from Etsy for the modest price of $22.

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Large porcelain beads threaded on a sterling silver chain make this statement piece worthy of every eye in the room. The facet ball necklace is made by hand in Australia and available in multiple different sizes and colors. Contact Dani M directly for more information about her playful porcelain wares.

Brooklyn-based design team Loyalty and Blood make a variety of creative necklaces, rings, and earrings inspired by basic forms and a DIY aesthetic. The flat triangles necklace is a pleasing take on the concept of repetition. Made of brass, the 20″ necklace goes for $49 from their online shop.

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The cutest of the bunch, Stone & Honey’s tiny triangle ring is made of oxidized sterling silver with brass. Due to this oxidation process, each ring will develop its own unique patina over time, adding a little detail to the simplistic design. At just $20 each, the ring is perfect for wearing stacked or as one alone. You can find the tiny ring in their online store.

Less is more with the beautiful negative space circle tie bar. The elegant piece is constructed of highly-polished sterling silver and handmade in Israel. Head to Erga’s Etsy page to purchase the ideal piece of understated style for $52.


Royal Salute’s Tribute to Honour

A bottle of scotch so expensive you’ll probably never taste it

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Crafted by Royal Salute as a liquid homage to the oldest crown jewels in the British Isles—The Honours of Scotland—Tribute to Honour is a blend of some of Chivas Brothers‘ oldest and finest whiskey in an over-the-top package.

To create the Tribute, Master Blender Colin Scott selected a few casks of very well-aged whisky, all at least 45 years old. Individually, they’re probably among the best you’ll ever enjoy; blended, they achieve an even higher intensity.

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A liquid this rare deserves more than a plastic flask, so they commissioned Garrard, “the world’s oldest jewelers,” to craft a bottle made from black porcelain, adorned with 413 flawless black and white diamonds, as well as 22 carats of other gemstones, set in gold and silver. (Pictured above, L-R: Colin Scott, Royal Salute Master Blender and Stephen Webster, Creative Director of Garrard)

Alas, luxury this rare—only 21 numbered bottles were created—comes at a price. The bottles run $200,000 a piece. Contact Giaia [dot] Rener [at] pernot-ricard [dot] com for more information.


Goldfish – We Come Together

Dans le même esprit que Flairs – Truckers Delight, voici le clip du dernier single du groupe Goldfish “We Come Together” rempli de dédicaces à des classiques du jeu vidéo. Ce clip drôle et réussi, entièrement en animation et pixels au style retro, a été réalisé par Mike Scott.



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