Tamara Fogle

A proudly British label merges form and function with unexpected fabrics for truly unique handbags

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Feeling constrained as a freelance interiors stylist, Londoner Tamara Fogle abandoned editorial features in favor of following her own creative pursuit. What began simply as a desire to make “things” she liked, Fogle explains “now my job is a real reflection of me, and I love that fact.” Steadily gaining notoriety since its inception in 2007, her eponymous handbag label is now stocked by a wealth of specialty boutiques across the U.K., as well as at London’s edgy Hoxton Gallery and The British Museum shop.

Fogle’s passion for her work is evident in every bag, which are each entirely designed and made in the U.K.—a decision she says is “exceedingly important.” While this drastically reduces her carbon footprint, Fogle explains her real interest is in bolstering a “diminishing industry” that truly excels in craftsmanship. “By championing British production, I hope to evoke the heritage and create the quality that U.K. manufacturing was once renowned for. My focus is to create a quality product that will last forever, and won’t be thrown away in favor of next season’s fad. Instead, it will get better and better with age and wear.”

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In addition to ensuring sustainability, Fogle’s label also stands out for its fabrics, with the designer roaming the globe for unique materials and finishes that span French mattress ticking to Indian quilts. “Sourcing fabrics is the most fun,” she says. “For longstanding ranges like my Antique German Flour Sack range, I work with a few specialist textile dealers. Looking for new fabrics means I am constantly scouring antique fairs and talking to the most interesting and eccentric people.”

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Her latest find is a stockpile of vintage Belgian army tent bags that are “enormous and falling apart at the seams,” but by playing with the proportions, Fogle says “the fabric can be made up into fantastic bags that combine textures like soft leather hides, hard bridle leathers and other ‘scruffy textiles’ for a distinct aesthetic.”

Tamara Fogle bags sell in a variety of styles and patterns, and are stocked in the U.K. at Elys of Wimbledon, Flint in Sussex and 18 The Mall in Bristol, as well as Iena in Japan, online at ModCloth in the States and Le Grenier in Australia. Prices typically span £125-330.

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C. Chauchat

More than meets the eye from ties handmade in an East Village living room
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Working out of an East Village apartment, Curie Choi and Beverly Liang meticulously craft their collection of “man enhancing” ties under the label C. Chauchat. The name, borrowed from German novel “The Magic Mountain” and its otherworldly temptress Madame Chauchat, also translates to “hot cat” in French. Much like their ties, the well-considered choice is both playful and has depth.

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By layering sheer fabric over opaque prints, the duo create a look that’s subtly complex. A gauzy black tones down a vivid jungle print, but even there faint inflections, like a pale paint splotch or muted stripe, show through. Employing a “special insane hand collaging” technique, Choi and Liang even produced a tie that features four layers of fabric—silk chiffon, tulle and two different printed cottons.

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When designing, the pair constantly think about what looks good on a man and how the tie fits into his world, but they use feminine fabrics and techniques from dressmaking. This “women’s take on masculinity” is inspired by the stylish men in their lives. While they appreciate refined dressing, the ties are meant as an everyday accessory, not a showpiece.

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Now in their third season, their latest collection was inspired by a “dandy on vacation,” presenting an assortment of rakish styles that channel Op Art, magic eye posters and David Hockney paintings. Also look out for a collaborative collection of scarves, ties and bow ties in Rober Gellar’s Fall/Winter 2011 season.

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Each made by hand, the C. Chauchat ties and bow ties sell worldwide for $155-180 from Strasburgo in Japan, as well as from Creatures of Comfort, La Garçonne and Assembly in New York.

See more images after the jump.

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V&Y Mart

An L.A. stylist debuts her statement-making line of repurposed t-shirt necklaces

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When L.A.-based stylist Lauren Constantine needed more distinct accessories on set, she decided to make them herself. After several years of crafting one-off statement pieces, Constantine finally opened up shop, peddling two styles under her label V&Y Mart.

The V&Y neckpiece is comprised of upcycled t-shirts, ripped and twisted into a multifunctional scarf. Both a cozy cold weather accessory and bold face-framing necklace, you can wear the accessory year round, dressed up or down and adjusted with its hardware closure. Constantine explains, “It’s more important to me that clients celebrate their own sense of personal style and feel good in what they’re wearing, not just throw on a different trend each season.”

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Putting her sewing skills to use, Constantine crafted a collection of bows she calls El Bow Co. She stuffs each with tulle, and they come in a variety of adorable fabrics and sizes spanning small to Minnie Mouse-style large.

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“I’m really passionate about getting down with the sewing machine, and so any chance I have to do that is exciting,” says Constantine. “As a stylist, you hone skills as a visual artist—bring characters to life, create moods and make statements—which is really rewarding in and of itself. But, to bring wearable art to life and be a part of the creation process, from the initial swatch selection to the final stitch, is for me the biggest thrill.”

Bows span $22-36 and neckpieces sell for $58 from Constantine’s Etsy shop, V&Y Mart.


The Dress Project

Brooklyn folk collective Fort Makers create wearable art in their latest venture
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Combining art and fashion in the literal sense, The Dress Project is a creative endeavor in dressmaking using silk and cotton fabric hand-painted by artist Naomi Clark of Brooklyn’s playful cohort, Fort Makers. Clark, along with co-founder Nana Spears, tapped fashion designer Lauren Nevada to create the dress form—a simple button-down shirt-dress intended to convey a sense of all-American style. “As we brought our ideas together, we realized this design would, on one hand, be the most symbolic piece we could find,” explains Nevada, while also noting that the relaxed silhouette (requiring few seams), would complement the garment’s identity as a wearable canvas.

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The one-off frocks showcase Clark’s vibrant artistry, a form of object metamorphosis executed through the use of organically painted geometric shapes and patterns, bold brushstrokes and lively, often eye-popping colors. “The results are a wonderful surprise,” adds Nevada. “We found compositions hidden under the collars and button tabs sometimes—details that make them very special.”

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The dresses will be available at Bird boutique in Brooklyn’s Williamsburg neighborhod, which will also be a temporary gallery space for pieces from Fort Makers’ inaugural venture, The Blanket Project. Employing a similar perspective and aesthetic towards textile art, the two-year-old collective self-dubbed “urban folk artists” source secondhand wool camping blankets from flea markets, garage sales and eBay, which are then cut, dyed, and sewn into new quilts.

The dresses will retail for $745 at Bird, as well as at Louis in Boston.


Wear Out by Carolina Reis

Wear Out by Carolina Reis

Folds, pleats and tucks in this suit by graduate designer Carolina Reis exaggerate the movements of its wearer.

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Top and above photographs are by Nichon Glerum

“Since movement is as individual as our fingerprints, a design that takes into account motion becomes singular to each person,” says Reis.

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Above photograph is by Design Academy Eindhoven and Vincent van Gurp

Called Wear Out, the project was developed as part of her graduation at the Design Academy Eindhoven last year.

Wear Out by Carolina Reis

Above photograph is by Nichon Glerum

More stories about fashion »

Wear Out by Carolina Reis

Above photograph is by Nichon Glerum

The information below is from Carolina Reis:


Carolina Reis, designer and researcher, has developed Wear Out. It is the outcome of her master degree at the Design Academy Eindhoven. Her work was exhibited during the Dutch Design Week from the 23rd until the 31st of October at both the Design Academy Graduation Show and at the Appropriate Material exhibition.

WEAR OUT – body movement shaping the garment

What if the wearer could become whoever he is without having to choose a certain representation in his outfit? Is it possible to approach fashion design without imposing a certain model to follow?

This project is the outcome of this premise. The mechanism applied on the fabric breaks when there is pressure and adjusts to the wearer. By using movement as a catalyzer of change in the object, the garment takes its final shape once each person has used it.


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Folded fabric by
Issey Miyake
Pleated chair
by Nendo
Leggings by
Camille Cortet

Sixhands

Vibrantly modern prints from an up-and-coming Aussie trio’s lush floor and wall coverings

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The appropriately named Australian brand Sixhands is both a textile design and fashion label made up of the three friends and University of Technology, Syndey graduates Brianna Pike, Anna Harves and Alecia Jensen. Founded in 2006, the trio blends fashion with interiors through an extensive range of printed textiles, wallpapers and most recently, rugs.

Sixhands often lends their interior design talents to Australian fashion houses, creating striking decorated spaces that have been featured in various interior design magazines.

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Similar to other Australian brands, the free-spirited team have a knack for creating bold color combinations, using the latest in technology while practicing environmentally sound production processes. The upshot are quality finishes, made in a progressive, sustainable manner. One of our favorite designs, the wall-to-floor drapes, creates a sense of fluid movement, while linking many of the brand’s signature design elements.

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To find out more about Sixhands, including their contact information for inquiries, check out their site.


Mohair blankets by Studio Makkink & Bey

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Dutch design studio Makkink & Bey’s are having their first solo exhibition at Helmrinderknecht design gallery in Berlin … called WashHouse…these amazing beautiful mohair blankets feature drawings of brickwork, roofing, wooden buildings, vegetable patches, animals and transport…by hanging them on wooden frames a small rural village is created  and you as a visitor can enjoy a lovely walk …

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The woollen blankets were produced at the Textielmuseum's workshop, Textilelab, in Tilburg, Netherlands. All blankets are two sided and woven with two different colours. There are a total of five patterns and ten colour combinations. The blankets are limited to 20 pieces of each colour combination and unfortunately exclusively available at Helmrinderknecht (999.- p.p.)

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Studio Makkink & Bey is led by architect Rianne Makkink and designer Jurgen Bey and if you would like to read more about them than just click here…why oh why can we not buy them too 🙂 [found via Wannekes]

FattyShell (v.01) by Kyle Sturgeon, Chris Holzwart and Kelly Raczkowski

Here’s another student project that involves filling stitched structures with concrete (see Grompies by AA students in our earlier story), this time by architecture students Kyle A. Sturgeon, Chris Holzwart and Kelly Raczkowski from the University of Michigan. (more…)

Classic and Modern Fabrics

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Practically an encyclopedia, Classic and Modern Fabrics provides a complete guide to the world of textiles with 834 high quality color scans of over 600 fabrics, each accompanied by a brief history and detailed description of its uses.

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Authored by textile designer Janet Wilson, this heavy tome seemingly documents every fabric ever created—from the common to the obscure. The alphabetized guide provides valuable insight on frequently used fabrics with an inexhaustible scholasticism, such as the over 25 types of velvet identified and explained down to each minute detail.

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The book comes out stateside 1 May 2010 and can be pre-ordered from Amazon or purchased online from publishers Thames & Hudson.

Click Here


The Last Dragon

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Better known as Ramblin Worker, San Francisco-based artist Steve MacDonald combines sewing and embroidery with tech-savvy techniques to come up with his colorful illustrations, currently showing at NYC’s Fuse Gallery.

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“The Last Dragon” skews towards MacDonald’s interest in pop culture, layering colors and images to play off CMYK printing processes. The graphics, comprised of cut-outs and thread, show off how MacDonald uses a sewing machine as others might wield a spray can or a paint brush.

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MacDonald explains, the show “is a little of everything, from simple clean sewn lines to crazy cityscapes.” But, skateboarding makes a strong thematic statement, taking up a wall in the exhibit with pieces like the artist’s skate-ramp alphabet, as well as several other works featuring the curving form of a ramp.

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Previously featured on CH for his Modest Mouse concert tees, his involvement with the annual Bike Film Festival, and his embroidered cuckoo clocks, who knows what MacDonald will come up with next.

The Last Dragon” runs through 15 May 2010.