Interview: Richard Branson on Design: Our interview with the entrepreneur on the importance of design in building a brand

Interview: Richard Branson on Design

by Rod Kurtz When you board a Virgin America plane, distinct aesthetics—purple ambient lights, black leather seats and a flight crew smartly clad in Banana Republic uniforms—make it immediately clear this airline is different. Like the rest of Sir Richard Branson’s properties, Virgin America launched in 2007 as a brash…

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Eclectic by Tom Dixon

Decorative objects hand-cast in metals, marble and wood

Eclectic by Tom Dixon

First introduced this year at Maison et Objet, Eclectic by Tom Dixon, a new line of accessories by the influential British design studio, officially launches mid-October 2012. The aptly named line comprises miscellaneous “decorative artifacts” molded in heavyweight copper, brass, marble, cast aluminum and wood, modeled on actual trinkets…

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Christopher Raeburn Fall/Winter 2012

The eccentric British designer finds inspiration in opposing themes for his latest collections

Christopher Raeburn Fall/Winter 2012

British designer Christopher Raeburn’s Autumn Winter 2012 collection looks to the future to present utilitarian pieces with a sharp sense of style. Raeburn presents two distinct lines for men and women, “Scorch” and “Freeze,” adventurous collections focused on opposing materials and themes. For the “Scorch” collection, Raeburn incorporates the…

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A Fruitful Discomfort: The Face of the 2012 Olympics

The visual identity of the London Games was uncomfortable, like a shattered stained-glass window. But iconoclasm does have its fans; and the more ways we can look at something, and look through something, the better off we are.

The stated intent of the London Organising Committee of the Olympic and Paralympic Games (LOCOG) was to focus on youth; naturally this extended to the visual identity system, the centerpiece being the logo, which has received little love. The logo’s severe angularity does not mesh with the reality that for virtually everybody (except the parents of athletes) the Olympics constitute a pleasant vacation, or a comfy staycation – they’re not about stress or tension. Television “censorship” attests to this clearly, and this clash might be what puts people off.

To me the logo looks like how middle-aged men (coincidentally my own demographic) tend to feel about teenagers: uncomfortable. The logo also makes me think of the 1980s ski boots I once bought via Craigslist. And the Opening Ceremonies also betrayed the reality of who consumes the Olympics, of who the customer is – and it’s not young people. Looking at it that way, the logo just might be perfect. And adherents of the maxim “there’s no such thing as bad publicity” require no justification beyond the fact that the logo is indeed highly memorable.

2012Headline by Gareth Hague, the official typeface of the 2012 Olympic Games.

What is also memorable is Gareth Hague’s typeface for the London Olympics, 2012Headline. Besides being fervently discussed – and ridiculed – in typographic circles, it was also featured in the mainstream media, both at home and abroad. Unlike the logo however 2012Headline is quite difficult to wrap one’s head around. If you look at it as a formal outgrowth of the logo it just might make perfect sense. But if you look deeper, if you consider its genesis, it feels very different: uncomfortable. Fortunately it has one superb redeeming quality, one that’s highly relevant to the enclave of typeface design…

The logo of the London Olympics is based closely on Hague’s Klute typeface of 1997, a unique design that draws ideas from blackletter and graffiti. And in the context of the Olympics it’s possible to imagine the influence of Ancient Greek lettering on 2012Headline. The inherited visual language of the Olympics also seems to be what caused the “O” and “o” to be circular (inspired by the venerable five-ring symbol), a direct formal contradiction with every other glyph in the font. Hague reveals that the circular “o” was supposed to be an alternate; he had provided the expected angular “o” as the primary form.

It’s easy to agree that using the circular “o” was a confused, bad decision. I figured to see if that’s really true, so I decided to make an angular “o” glyph based on how I interpreted the font’s “internal consistency”. The first one I made didn’t have very happy proportions, so I decided to bend the rules and make a different one, which I found less jarring.

This one I subbed into the logo and was pleasantly surprised to conclude that opting for the circular “o” was a good decision after all – it seems to add a nice softness, whereas the angular one might just make the whole too mechanical. Olympic Games logos come and go, but apparently the rings are forever!

The Redeeming Quality

Although 2012Headline was designed after the logo was approved by LOCOG (so was presumably constrained to being a follower and not a leader) according to Hague himself the only thing the two typefaces share is a general angular spikiness; no blackletter, no graffiti, no Greek. But people will see what they see – the designer is never around to tell them what to think. What I myself see most prominently – something shared by Klute and 2012Headline but virtually no other design – is what motivated me to write this article: it might be a better way to make an italic.

Italic has long been a personal sore spot – to me a sort of drive-by shotgun wedding. Roman and italic might be able to tolerate each other after all these years, but pairing them up was still a bad joke. Now, if they can indeed tolerate each other, why worry? It’s a bit like the search for an energy alternative to fossil fuels, with its tinge of desperation. But to some it does seem like an alternative is the only way forward, or at the very least a break from the despotism of cursiveness being at the heart of emphasis in running text. The unduly reviled slanted roman has had its champions and svengalis, but even if I for one believe that can be an answer, it cannot be the only answer. And one answer might just be rotation, which is essentially what makes 2012Headline (and Klute) so special.

Gareth Hague might not have invented the idea. The passing of time has only cemented Frederic Goudy’s “the old fellows stole all our best ideas” and this is probably no exception. One can easily imagine the ATF boys making rotated glyphs a century ago with a quick adjustment of the pantograph – they certainly did everything else with it. Also, neither Klute nor 2012Headline can serve for emphasis since they have no roman. Rotation as a means of emphasis – dubbed “rotalic” – seems to have first been floated by Filip Tydén, but that was a decade after Klute. Also, virtually all rotalic fonts have been created via brute mechanical rotation, and thus deserve the derision they typically engender. This is clearly not the case with 2012Headline – it’s been designed with intent. So Hague deserves credit for applying the idea quite early with Klute, and maturing it before anybody else with 2012Headline.

Jackson Cavanaugh plays with an italic from his Harriet Series.

As with any novelty, rotalic’s potential for ridicule is great; people like to have fun. This is the sort of ridicule reserved for things that can be consciously evaluated by everybody: display fonts. The magic of text face design kicks in when novelties are applied so subtly as to escape general rejection… although there is no escape from rejection by some fellow type designers. We are now seeing a trickle of rotalic fonts including one that elevates the style to a fully respectable level: TypeTogether’s Eskapade.

Perhaps unsure what to do with the unusual orientation of 2012Headline, Olympics designers often resorted to a rotated baseline.

For many people however letters that seem to be falling over are… uncomfortable. So much so that many applications of 2012Headline – including high-profile ones – have resorted to rotating lines of type counter-clockwise, effectively eliminating the slant, even though the result is an often awkward “uphill” line of type. Then there’s Hubert Jocham’s Keks: older than 2012Headline but more recent than Klute, it seems to vie for the same sort of angularity, but critically without the “discomfort” of rotation. In a way Keks is to 2012Headline what Excoffon’s Chambord is to Peignot: they share a style, but the former avoids the latter’s iconoclasm (Cassandre’s design was nothing less than an effort at alphabet reform), resulting in something easier to sell. In fact it’s nice to imagine a retrofit of 2012Headline that would serve as an italic for Keks (similar to the genesis of Triplex Italic), which might become a first in terms of having a roman and an italic that are equally slanted!

It’s not possible to see 2012Headline as a text face, or even as an italic for a text face. But anybody who can see in it something that will enrich typeface design, that will perhaps propel a new generation of italics, is better off. To quote from a poster made by Hague promoting Klute: “It’s not what this is that’s important, it’s what it could or might be”. This is nicely parallel to a founding principle of the Olympics: “The most important thing is not to win but to take part.” Let’s not worry merely about making sellable fonts – let’s see where 2012Headline can take us.

Schofield Watch Company

Quality, tech specs and aesthetics come together perfectly in British-made timepieces
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Admittedly eschewing fashion for quality, Schofield Watch Company founder Giles Ellis adheres to a clear and simple motto for his brand—”Make a watch I’d like to wear.” Entering the watchmaking game is a bold move to begin with, especially at the higher end of the market. Ellis, however, has not only succeeded in making a watch he likes, but one that others do as well.

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The company launched in 2011 at the Saatchi Gallery Salon QP with the Signalman. The culmination of more than 4,000 man hours of work, the piece was made in a process meticulously controlled by Ellis. His pure attention to detail ranged from the watch strap to the creation of the brand’s website. Though as much as he might obsess over paperstock or typesetting, Ellis spent most of the time ensuring that the 30-plus suppliers of parts and details were perfect for the Signalman, emphasizing impeccable workmanship on the watch’s unique profile inspired by the British lighthouses of the 18th and 19th century.

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“It’s my testament to the great British engineering which gave rise to these monolithic structures,” explains Ellis. He also notes that perhaps there’s an element of the English eccentricy and individuality which sits well with him and his appoach to the brand.
A self-proclaimed “breather of design”, the designer’s career path has been heavily informed by his father’s wood craftsmanship. This influence lead Ellis to found The Fifth Fret, a company specializing in the restoration of high-end musical instruments from around the world. He has also designed parts for performance bicycles, top-end hifi equipment and bespoke furniture.

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The Signalman has generated a great deal of attention, and while the waiting list continues to grow, Schofield remains fiercly independent to ensure that only the very highest standards of quality can be upheld and the existing level of precision can be secured.

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Technically, the Signalman reads particularly well, especially when combined with its unusually pronounced profile. The case itself is machined to a micro-thin 0.01mm, while the lugs wrap snugly around the wrist so it always sits well on the arm. The packaging is a nod to the early Aldis lamps used by the Royal Navy. The watches boast super high-end mechanical, automatic, Swiss-made Soprod 9335/A10 movement with a daily average deviation of plus or minus 4 seconds—or 99.98% accurate if you’re a numbers person.

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Yet while technically Signalman’s credentials are as solid as a rock there’s no denying that its looks and craftsmanship lever it subtly onto a wish list without having to resort to garish exotic skins, blingy faces and overtly over the top, needless functions. It’s a piece of wrist art from a small English company about as far from the average luxury timepiece companies as you’re likely to find in this day and age.

The Signalman DLC and DLC GMT PR are available online for £2,465.00 and £2,785.00


G&T by Bethan Gray

Polished marble meets turned wood in a new furniture line

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Discovered alongside Anthony Dicken’s Tekio lighting at Clerkenwell Design Week was a beautiful range of tables by British furniture designer Bethan Gray. This capsule collection has been created by Gray in collaboration with furniture developer Thomas Turner and launched under their recently established G&T label.

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The G&T collection grabbed our attention with its considered offering of five minimal but luxuriously detailed table designs. The first four are called “Carve” and include two low coffee tables—one square, one round—and two smaller side tables.

Created in combinations of white and black marble with oak and walnut bases, the designs match sleek Carrara marble tops with smoothly turned wooden legs. Bespoke marble options are also available upon request. The fourth, rather more lightweight version of the “Carve” side table, comes all in wood.

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Another design, “Brogue“, combines the wooden base of “Carve” with a finely crafted leather top, detailed on its edge with what Gray calls “an intricate wax thread brogue finished with a hand stitched detail”—a technique that is recognizable from traditional shoe production.

Gray describes the designs as a “modern interpretation of a classic archetype,” based, as they are, on the traditional three-legged table found throughout her native Wales as a solution to uneven slate floors.

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According to Gray, the motivation behind the G&T collection lies in “exclusively using intriguing and seductive combinations of natural materials, adding exciting and elegant detail to create timeless families of beautiful products.”

Bethan Gray and Thomas Turner got to know each other while working together at Habitat. Having both left that well known British design brand a few years ago to forge their own paths, they have teamed up again to make contemporary furniture that they predict will become “future heirlooms.”

The tables are available from G&T with pricing available upon request.


Dallas Art

The serious scene with a down-home spirit

A recent invitation to the Dallas Art Fair piqued our interest initially by the range of 78 participating galleries and artists like Erwin Wurm bringing his “Beauty Business” from the Bass Museum in Miami, and Zoe Crosher creating a site-specific installation of her Michelle DuBois project as part of the simultaneous Dallas Biennale.

While we didn’t expect to encounter a domestic event in the scope of Art Basel Miami or New York’s Armory Show, Art Fair co-founder Chris Byrne clarified that wasn’t the point. “The hope is that by presenting the local, national, and international galleries on an even playing field that the viewer has an important role in evaluating the art on its own terms,” he says. After experiencing the fair among a swirl of strong sales, serious parties filled with decked-out Texas-style socialites, football stadium art tours and a glimpse at some serious private collections, we’ve discovered a Dallas that is, indeed, all its own when it comes to an art scene.

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Dallas Art Fair

With galleries representing cities from Berlin to Milwaukee, New York, LA, Dallas, Fort Worth, Houston, Marfa and Waxahachie, TX, the digestible smaller Dallas Art Fair, held in the Fashion Industry Gallery (or simply the f.i.g. “if you want anyone to know what you’re talking about”, a cab driver told us), presented a truly eclectic blend of big-ticket classics and new work by unknown artists. We were pleased to see a thread installation by Gabriel Dawe, as well as the 2009 graphite drawings of another thread artist gaining traction, Anne Lindberg, at Chicago’s Carrie Secrist gallery. Local Fort Worth Artist Helen Altman had her torch-drawn animal prints on display at Talley Dunn gallery out of Dallas, while New York galleries like Vladimir Restoin Roitfeld Gallery featured Richard DuPont‘s polyurethane heads and newer work by Ouattara Watts, and Josee Bienvenue featured cut-paper grids by Marco Maggi.

In the three years since its inception the fair has grown with quality, not quantity in mind, boasting this year’s solid headliners in and around the fair like Wurm and Crosher, as well as Jacob Kassay, Adam McEwen and Dallas-based Erick Swenson. “There’s no grand plan with a push pin map of the art world. The fair starts to generate an organic life of its own with a visual coherence and cohesion as a byproduct of that independent life,” says Byrne.

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Goss-Michael Foundation

The long-term relationship of ’80s pop legend George Michael with his former partner Kenny Goss, who happens to be a Dallas-based arts patron and former cheerleading coach, gave the city another of its idiosyncratic art contributions. The non-profit Goss-Michael Foundation was founded in 2007 to support British contemporary art and expose a larger community beyond collectors to the works of the so-called YBA movement. Adam McEwen opened his show during DAF, on the heels of an impressive roster that in the Foundation’s tenure has included the likes of Marc Quinn, Nigel Cooke, Tracey Ermin, Damien Hirst and others.

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Dallas Cowboys Stadium

When team owner Jerry Jones opened the roughly 3 million-square-foot Dallas Cowboys Stadium in 2009, it didn’t come as a surprise that the team’s new stomping grounds would become the largest domed stadium on the planet, house the largest HD JumboTron and hold a maximum capacity crowd of 110,000—this is Texas, after all. More surprising was the breadth and depth of its contemporary art collection, and the freedom with which the artists were able to create. The artists were selected by a committee led by Jones and his wife, Gene, the interior decorator for the VIP areas of the stadium, but were given minimal limitations beyond the inspiration of the team’s legacy to create their work. The resulting 19-piece collection spans the entire arena, from massive 2D pieces by Ricci Albenda, Terry Hagerty and Dave Muller over main concourse concession stands; to Olafur Eliasson’s “Moving Stars takes Time” mobile over a VIP entrance and the aptly titled “Fat Superstar” in the Owner’s Club. Lawrence Weiner’s “Brought up to Speed” graces a 38-foot staircase wall, while perhaps most on-brand for the Cowboys, coincidentally, are two acquisitions from Doug Aitken that play to the team’s star logo.

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Dallas Contemporary

Running simultaneously with the Dallas Art Fair was the Dallas Biennale—a tongue-in-cheek, one-time presentation of works by Crosher, Sylvie Fleury, Claude Levecque, Gabriel Martinez and more at various venues across the city. While we were curious to see Fleury’s windows at the flagship Neiman Marcus store downtown, the Dallas Contemporary, where Crosher and Levecque presented alongside Wurm, offered an interestingly offbeat, and physically off-the-beaten-track experience in our art wanderings. Located across some sort of freeway network in what’s known as the Design District, nestled on a remote dead-end among gems like the seemingly abandoned Cowboy Bail Bonds and various strip joints, the Contemporary looks like a commercial space that might have a loading dock around the side like its neighbors. Such a spot makes for the perfect intersection of fresh ways of thinking away from the rest of the city’s stereotypically oversized or Southwestern-style neighborhoods, uncovering yet another intriguing aspect of Dallas.


Wolsey Soho

Iconic British menswear label opens its first London flagship

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Two hundred and fifty-seven years after launching, British menswear brand Wolsey opened the doors last night to their first flagship store in London. Located on Brewer Street in the heart of Soho, the store’s aesthetics mirrors the brand’s ethos: contemporary styling of iconic classics. Brushed steel beams, exposed brick walls, aged wooden tables and original draper’s cabinets combine to create the perfect backdrop for the range of quality menswear.

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Drawing inspiration from Wolsey’s original Leicester factory (now the location of its brand operations), the store also features a wealth of salvaged, prismatic pendants, 1940s industrial light fixtures and Persian rugs. Down a small flight of stairs and located just outside the exposed brick changing rooms are two vintage leather armchairs separated by a reclaimed-wood table housing men’s fashion titles. Adorning the walls of both floors are framed prints of original Wolsey adverts, old and new campaigns, inscribed wooden boards telling its history and images of some of the explorers and pioneers who helped build its identity.

“We’re very proud of the heritage the brand has,” says Brand Director Stephen Reed. “While we are steering the brand in a new direction with the design of the latest collections, we’re making sure we keep the classic heritage and attention to detail
that has fueled Wolsey’s longevity.”

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Attention to detail is key to the success Wolsey has achieved, and it’s a thread sewn throughout the latest collection. Classic woolen jumpers and cotton gilets are injected with modernity through wider necklines and narrower silhouettes. Double-breasted navy blazers—complete with nautical gold buttons at the cuff—and plaid cotton shirts transform a traditional tailored look into today’s casually refined aesthetic. Leather accessories have been designed with today’s technological devices in mind, and the classic urban hoodie has been tweaked with chunky herringbone draw cords, 320gm heavy cotton and ribbed cuffs.

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“Our designs are modern and fresh while also being classic and iconic. It’s the choice of material or the details in a button that gives each piece its individuality,” says Reed. “The Wolsey guy is cool and subtly stylish. He takes the classic staples we create and puts his own twist on them.”

Wolsey

83a Brewer Street

London, W1F 9ZN


Ripe

Seasoned food writer Nigel Slater presents an ode to fruit

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In follow-up to “Tender“, his dedicated volume on vegetables, London-based food writer Nigel Slater turns to the fruit section of his garden in “Ripe“. The beautifully photographed tome serves as a comprehensive primer on 23 types of fruit and a collection of more than 300 recipes, but most importantly, reads like an alphabetically organized love letter to each and every variety, from apples and apricots to gooseberries, damsons and elderflower.

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Overseeing a 40-foot terrace garden off his London flat, Slater extolls his devotion to fruit, which despite their secondary role in the importance of his growing efforts, fill him with an unparalleled sense of joy and wonder season after season. “I always knew that if ever I found a space in which to grow a few knobbly vegetables of my own, some of it would be set aside for fruit,” says Slater in an introduction that walks the reader through each row and past each bush and tree of his small city garden. “Their pleasures are brief, and yes, there is always a struggle to get there before the birds and the squirrels,” he continues. “But it is hard to find a mulberry more exquisite than the one you have grown for yourself, a strawberry more sweet, or a fig more seductive.”

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Slater’s prose will delight fellow gardeners and offer indispensable instructions for the uninitiated. You may be inspired to start growing yourself, or at the very least, find a new appreciation for those who provide us with such sweet bounty at the market each week. Each fruit’s section comes prefaced with Slater’s deeply personal and highly informative analysis. “Without heat,” he says, “there is little point to the black currant. He goes on to pay homage to what he calls the “cook’s fruit” with concise recipe for making jelly—a hobby he picked up much to his amusement.

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Each fruit he outlines by their behavior in the garden and purpose in the kitchen, listing details on their many varieties and offering proper pairings among different herbs spices and other ingredients. Throughout the practical introductions Slater reiterates the pleasure he derives from fruit, likening a bag of cherries to “a bag of happiness” because “their appearance, in deepest summer, comes when life is often at its most untroubled.”

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Recipes are simple and thrilling. “When the oven has been on for a roast, I sometimes sneak in a dish of baked fruit,” offers Slater, as an intro to a recipe for baked pears with marsala. From lamb with quinces to classic applesauce and gooseberry fool, dishes represent rustic delicacies from several different cultures while sticking to Slater’s essential unfussy but still very passionate attitude toward his ingredients. Despite the collection’s creative range, the author reassures us “you should find nothing to raise an eyebrow…no flights of fancy, no strawberry sauce with chicken to upset the family at suppertime.”

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All the sweetness of fruit shines through in their thorough explanation and simple imagery throughout this thick new book. “Ripe” drops 10 April 2012 and is currently available for pre-order through Ten Speed Press and Amazon.


The Mu

Award-winning USB adapter reduces size of bulky British power plug design by 70%

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Designed in 1947, the British plug firmly holds its place as one of the world’s largest three-pin power interfaces, escaping the grips of design innovation with the equally clunky editions continuously rolled out. Now, however, product designer and illustrator Min-Kyu Choi of Made in Mind has created The Mu—a folding USB adapter with a minimal, refined design that reduces overall object size by more than 70%.

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The streamlining is achieved with a rotating central pin that allows the adapter to fold flat for travel and storage. This clever, space-saving innovation earned The Mu the title of Product Design of the Year and Overall Design of the Year from the 2010 Brit Insurance Design Awards. Even the packaging on the sleek, white Mu is slender and attractive.

Much anticipated, The Mu launches today, 17 February, for £25.