CH Local: Portland

Where to find a flannel, eat a slaw burger and cheer on the home teams in the beautiful City of Roses

Nestled between the Cascade Mountains and the Pacific Ocean, Portland might be best known for its incredible number of rainy days. That hasn’t stopped creative types—Wieden & Kennedy and Nike employees to the many independent artists and entrepreneurs—from flocking. Even worthy of parody in the miniseries Portlandia, there’s perhaps no U.S. city that has embraced progressive “eco-chic” values, turning the challenges of sustainable living into opportunities to innovate, more than the City of Roses. To get the real Portland experience from an insider perspective, check out our all-new Portland installment of CH Local—highlights from the guide below.

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The Woodlands

On a side street in Old Town, The Woodlands is the ultimate purveyor of Northwest style, a one-stop shop for the finest menswear and accessories from a number of companies such as Pendleton, Danner, Archival Clothing and Tanner Goods and Field Notes, all homegrown in Oregon. Even if shopping isn’t on your agenda, stop by for a free cup of Sisters Coffee (roasted in Central Oregon), best enjoyed while perusing the rotating gallery in the back.

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Little Bird

New to the Portland landscape, the friendly French bistro Little Bird has caused a big stir amongst the city’s thriving foodie community. Under the guise of award-winning chef Gabriel Rucker, Little Bird offers a simple mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine in a relaxed atmosphere. Go for the famous Le Pigeon burger, a slaw-covered natural beef patty borrowed from their sister restaurant Le Pigeon, another local favorite.

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Spirit of 77

Named for the one and only time the Trailblazers won an NBA championship title, Spirit of 77 is a great place to enjoy a local craft beer while cheering on the Oregon Ducks or checking out Portland’s new MLS team, The Timbers. Owners Jack Baron (co-owner of the Ace Hotel) and Nate Tilden (owner of the restaurant Clyde Common, as well as NYC’s The Beagle) have created another go-to locale with this retro-designed sports bar. Decorated with Northwest-centric athletic memorabilia, there’s also plenty of ways to have a friendly game of your own with their array of dartboards, foosball tables and basketball hoops. As an added bonus, the massive space is just a short walk from the Rose Garden, the Blazers’ home court, making it perfect for a pre- or post-game rendezvous.


Tanka Bars

Savory Native American-made buffalo snack bars

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After our camping kick last month we’ve had an eye out for great snacks that would work just as well in the outdoors as they do in the office. Achieving just that is the Tanka Bar, a meat-based snack high in protein and low in calories. This unconventional bar is sustainably made by Native American producers in South Dakota using 100% natural prairie-raised buffalo, cranberries and a very short list of natural flavors for seasoning.

The hearty bars are subtly accented by whole cranberries, which add a subtle sweetness and counterpunch to the meat. Fortunately, the cranberries are not overpowering or overly sweet. The one ounce bars have only 70 calories and a shelf life of one year, and they’re available in traditional and a spicy pepper blend—which we prefer. Pick up a bar for around $2.50 at your local store or buy in bulk from Tanka directly.


Draughtsman’s Arms by Gundry & Ducker

Draughtsman's Arms by Gundry & Ducker

Architects Gundry & Ducker created a pub inside a cardboard box inside the crypt of a London church.

Draughtsman's Arms by Gundry & Ducker

Called the Draughtsman’s Arms, the installation formed the bar for an architecture exhibition.

Draughtsman's Arms by Gundry & Ducker

Ducking inside, visitors found themselves surrounded by a line drawing of an English bar from the waist up, complete with a view of the Royal Institute of British Architects through the window.

Draughtsman's Arms by Gundry & Ducker

Entitled The Architect: What Now? the exhibition was organised by architecture graduates Alison Coutinho, Dan Slavinsky and Dezeen’s Wai Shin Li.

Draughtsman's Arms by Gundry & Ducker

Above: photograph by Rick Roxburgh

Gundry & Ducker were also responsible for the design of Rosa’s Thai restaurant, which opened in Soho last year.

Draughtsman's Arms by Gundry & Ducker

Above: photograph by Rick Roxburgh

Photographs are by Joe Clark, apart from where otherwise stated.

Here are some more details from Gundry & Ducker:


The draughtsman’s Arms was designed by Gundry & Ducker as part of the recent exhibition and debate on the future of Architecture, “The Architect What Now”. Located in the crypt of a London Church designed by Sir John Soane.

Draughtsman's Arms by Gundry & Ducker

A focal point in the dimly light space, it housed the bar on the debate night and the reception area during the on-going exhibition. Plain on the outside, it is decorated on the inside and is sliced off at dado height partially revealing the occupants. It is both a drawing and a room. The room is a 1:1 scale illustration of a typical london pub interior.

Draughtsman's Arms by Gundry & Ducker

In response to the antique surroundings the CAD drawn interior is in the form of a etching. We imagined that full of thirsty drinkers it would be like a living Hogarth print. In expectation of the architect clientele, the pub interior has been modified to suit, for example, the view through the window is of the RIBA and the cigarette machine is branded by Rotring.


See also:

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Anna by
ZMIK
Leo Burnett Office by
Ministry of Design
Paperboard Architecture
by D’art for VDP

M.N.ROY by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy

M.N.ROY by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy

A house once occupied by Mexican communist party founder M. N. Roy has been converted into a nightclub by French architects Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy.

M.N.ROY by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy

The private club, located in a run-down terrace in the Roma district of Mexico City, is named M.N.ROY in honour of its famous former resident.

M.N.ROY by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy

The outside of the house is left completely unaltered, concealing the nightclub where a textured timber pyramid envelops a double-height dance floor and DJ booth.

M.N.Roy Club by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy

Rough timber blocks and glistening copper tiles cover the walls of other rooms, which are filled with wooden and leather furniture.

M.N.Roy Club by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy

Corridor walls are clad with black basalt tiles that are dramatically lit from below to accentuate patterns carved into their surfaces.

M.N.ROY by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy

Behind the pyramid, black walls gradually step inwards to surround a dimly lit bar.

M.N.ROY by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy

Clubbers overlook the dance floor from a glass-fronted mezzanine.

M.N.ROY by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy

More stories about bars and nightclubs on Dezeen »

M.N.ROY by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy

More stories about projects in Mexico on Dezeen »

M.N.ROY by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy

Photography is by Ramiro Chaves.

M.N.ROY by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy

Here are some more details from Godefroy:


M.N.ROY club in Mexico City

Chic By Accident from the Franco Mexican architect Emmanuel Picault together with the French architect Ludwig Godefroy just completed a private club in Mexico City, called M.N.ROY.

M.N.ROY by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy

What s M.N.ROY ?

M.N.ROY is a project made as an open question, the one has for goal not to answer obviously what’s actually the M.N.ROY.

M.N.Roy Club by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy

In this way, the place can be perceived as an anti-project of what could be the commission of a private club in Mexico City, an more precisely in its Roma neighborhood.

M.N.ROY by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy

In fact Roma has been very important in the definition of the architectural identity of this space, located in a very dueling neighborhood, and responding on one hand to its past, the one of the high mexican bourgeoisie of Porfirio Diaz (Mexican dictator 1876 – 1911) time which abandoned the neighborhood after the 1985 earthquake; and the today’s reality of a trendy urban area that Roma became.

M.N.ROY by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy

The club is the expression a high singular personality settling in the strong left over of its past time.

M.N.ROY by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy

According to this, where normally the renovation of the facade appears to be the starting point, the opposite was done: letting the facade untouched to increase the rupture between the original meaning of the house and the redefinition of it.

M.N.ROY by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy

We kept the house as a testimony of what it was, the house where Manabendra Nath Roy founded the first clandestine Mexican communist party.

M.N.ROY by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy

By not touching the facade we made paradoxically appealing the building from outside, stimulating the curiosity of the people passing by and seeing a large queue trying to enter an almost ruin house.

M.N.ROY by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy

Once inside, we made another step in a schizophrenic architectural way, introducing a new language, deeply belonging to the mexican culture, and nevertheless completely stranger to the Porfirio Diaz architecture time.

M.N.Roy by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy

We used a pre-hispanic language reminiscence inside, in a participative way and not contemplative as could be a nostalgic neo pre-hispanic vision of it, introducing new materials (copper, leather, wood, volcanic stone), geometries (puuc art, maya arch, pyramids), and everything, down impressive generous volumes.

M.N.ROY by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy

M.N.ROY is the impossible mix of cultures, volumes, architectural styles, making possible an improbable modern space of melting pot.

M.N.Roy by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy

Architects: Emmanuel Picault / Ludwig Godefroy

M.N.Roy by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy

Creative team: Rodrigo Madrazo / Marco Margain / Claudio Margain / Rodrigo Diaz Frances / Paolo Montiel / Leon Larregui / Emmanuel Picault / Ludwig Godefroy

M.N.Roy by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy

Industrial design: Laila salomon / Emmanuel Picault / Ludwig Godefroy

M.N.Roy by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy

Administration: Roberto Ayala

M.N.Roy by Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy

Construction: Aaron Yepez / Jose Luis Madrigal / Carlos Tapia / Base por altura / Alonzo Mungia / Carlos Cortes / Jose Luis Iturbe / Rigoberto Martinez


See also:

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Primewine Bar by
Sandellsandberg
26 Lounge Bar
by Cor
Maison Du Champagne by
Lin, Bolchover and Carlow

CH Local: São Paulo

Our tips and tricks on where to shop, eat and sleep in Brazil’s largest city

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Our newest installment for the Cool Hunting Local section, the São Paolo guide features ten of the best “jumping-off” points for those visiting the tropical city. Here is a taste of the insider tips we feel will help you prepare for a memorable tour of this colorful and culturally rich destination spot.

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Benedito Calixto

For an authentic shopping experience, we recommend the famous artisanal market, Benedito Calixto. While São Paulo is famous for its outdoor markets, or feiras, the Benedito Calixto is among the most popular. Although shopping is the main focus here, socializing comes in close second. Friends catch up over jam-packed aisles of vintage clothing, sunglasses and vinyl, antique tchotchkes, and costume jewelry. Stop by the outdoor food court tents later for a beer or coconut juice to wash down the feira favorite, pastel, a fried pastry stuffed with various fillings, from cheese to ground beef. Taking advantage of the local young demographic, the organization behind Benedito Calixto hosts cultural programs, ranging from live chorinho music in the food court to capoeira demonstrations in the courtyard of its east side building (no. 112). The surrounding bars and boutiques have flourished as a result of the influx of people. For more shopping, a covered market on the west side of the plaza features indie designers slinging items like purses, dresses and handmade soap made with exotic fruit.

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Lorena 1989 and Surface to Air

A cutting-edge boutique that serves up delicious food in addition to fashion, Surface to Air turned the location of its boutique into a quietly beautiful restaurant, where good-looking fashion types trade gossip and news on their latest projects. Set in a long room with whitewashed walls reminiscent of a rustic, medieval-era castle, Lorena 1989, features a wall of dripping candles in the back, rope lights wrapped around beams and natural light that streaming through a glass ceiling. These elements provide the perfect setting for a menu of modern takes on international comfort food like risotto and filet mignon milanesa, also served on the front patio near the bar. Next to the restaurant is the Surface to Air boutique, ground zero for cutting-edge clothes, accessories and shoes by such Brazilian indie and São Paulo Fashion Week designers as Neon, Juliana Jabour and D’Arouche.

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Hotel Fasano

Set in the heart of the chic Jardins neighborhood, Hotel Fasano is a luxury hotel designed by Isay Weinfeld and Marcio Kogan is just a stone’s throw from São Paulo’s hottest spots. While the hotel harkens the elegant style of 1930s architecture, the design has an updated feel that is pleasant and warm. Fireplaces and leather arm chairs invite guests to relax and enjoy the retro ambience. This experience is carried into the private rooms conceived by Philippe Starck, which feature beautifully finished hardwood floors and custom mirrors by Starck himself. While only guests have access to the high-design fitness center on the hotel’s top floor (with such amenities as an indoor pool, spa baths and saunas, and sophisticated exercise equipment), others gain access to the Fasano experience by visiting its renown restaurants and bars. There, patrons can feast on both Italian cuisine and the spaces’ elegant interiors.

Make sure to check out our Local section for the rest of our São Paulo recommendations.


Mister H

The “behind the scenes” aesthetic of the Mondrian SoHo’s Mister H lounge reveals a hot spot for locally-sourced design
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In sharp contrast to the Mondrian SoHo‘s pronounced “La Belle et la Bête” theme is the hotel’s swanky bar and lounge, Mister H. While the rest of the Benjamin Noriega Ortiz-designed, 270-room hotel lends itself to French trim, Mister H has a decidedly Chinatown glow, with a “behind the scenes” ambiance conceived by Armin Amiri—the man behind exclusive NYC hot spots like Socialista and Bungalow 8.

The buzz surrounding Mister H would imply it’s merely the latest place for models and celebs to stylishly sip a cocktail, but design nerds and die-hard New Yorkers also have reason to pay visit. Director of Design for Morgans Hotel Group, Heather Maloney explains the bar is actually a display of local creativity, with most of the materials and props sourced from around New York, beginning with the “this is not a brothel” neon sign. Created by Chinatown lighting specialist Let There Be Neon, the sign is a recreation of a small metal plaque adorning the exterior of a now-defunct brothel in the neighborhood. Maloney says she found the image while doing a Google search for things relating to brothels, and it spawned the bar’s overall design aesthetic.

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The local groove continues throughout the petite space, with a teal and white checkerboard floor, a DJ booth and the front of the bar all hand painted by F.W. Schmitz out of Long Island. Large, second-hand authentic Persian rugs were obtained from Paul De Beer, a retired Dutch engineer living on the Upper East Side. Reportedly flying to Iran twice a year to find the vintage carpets, De Beer sells his stock on Craiglist.

The design team also commissioned original paintings by NYC-based artist Gregory de la Haba, which combine Chinese astrology’s “Year of the Rabbit” with an “Alice In Wonderland” whimsy.

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Hanging behind the gauze curtains on the wall opposing the bar is another Let There Be Neon sign, written in Chinese and translating to “Happy Drunk Love.” Maloney explains they chose these three words because they wanted to maintain a relaxed atmosphere but also “wanted to say something upbeat that reflected that Chinatown flavor.”

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Hanging in each of the two bathrooms are gorgeous chandeliers Maloney found on Etsy, which are handcrafted by Studio Jota out of the Bronx. She says she chose them for their muted tones, explaining it’s hard to find a chandelier that doesn’t use a lot crystal. The beaded fixtures illuminate the intricately patterned, hand-screened wallpaper by Brooklyn’s Flavor Paper studio. The two styles—”Sassy Toile” and “Celestial Dragon”—are in custom colors chosen by the collaborative Mister H design team.

Behind a beaded curtain by Spanish brand Daisy Cake is a tucked away (and most likely VIP) area, that hosts a long cushioned couch and walls bedecked with original photos of classic film noir stars, sourced around eBay and housed in an assortment of random frames.

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The lounge is accented by shiny red lanterns designed by NYC-based couture lighting specialist Abyu, which mimic the shape of the quintessential hat worn by working men in China. Adding to the “love nest” feeling is a beautiful bird cage from Barreveld International, an upstate New York outfit that sells vintage pieces to the retail industry.

While many establishments keep their sources a secret, Maloney explains the Morgans Hotel Group likes to promote and show appreciation for people who do their job well and deserve recognition. Mister H officially opens today, and will will be open regularly Tuesday through Saturday from 10pm to 4am.

Rooms at the new Mondrian SoHo hotel start at $309 per night for a Superior room and can be booked online. See more images of Mister H in the gallery below.

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Safiren Apt 606

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Stockholm’s first and only members bar, the recently-opened Safiren Apt 606 serves up Bombay Sapphire-based drinks. Hidden within Stockholm’s stylish Story Hotel, Apt 606 offers members an urban retreat that even guests aren’t privy to.

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A gin heavily focused on quality both in taste and design (the brand has its own award for glass design), Bombay compliments the club’s smooth aesthetic well. Members can choose from a variety of top-notch cocktails including the tempting Bombay Sapphire Rose, the classic Dry Martini (favored by the late Queen Mother), and a take on Robert De Niro’s tipple of choice, the Bramble—with all the recipes published (with downloadble PDFs) on the Apt 606 site.

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The bar itself, a low-key affair, mixes vintage curiosity items with modern luxury for a casually sophisticated feel, accented by fabrics in rich tones of oxblood, maroons and deep turquoise.apt-606-4.jpg

In keeping with the air of secrecy surrounding most bars of its ilk, Apt 606 doesn’t take applications. Instead, selected members receive a key to access the private bar. Tucked away from the main drinking space of the hotel, the slightly protracted entry process only makes for an even greater feeling of seclusion and privilege.


Velvet Renaissance

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Transforming the Velvet Speakeasy in Montreal’s Old Port into a candlelit temple of worship embellished with gold walls and paintings, Kevin Ledo‘s mash-ups of religious imagery and fashion photography (previously covered here when it premiered in 2008) launches the first in a series of events christened “Velvet Renaissance.” Featuring work from the local artist’s series “The Guiding Light,” Ledo draws parallels between luxury fashion institutions and the symbolic worship of Medieval religious authorities with works bearing such tongue-in-cheek titles as “The Grace of Saint Calvin Klein,” “The Fall of Saint Prada” and “Saint Alberta Ferretti of Milan.”

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Yesterday’s opening night turned the space into a multi-sensory experience with DJ Milton Clark lending eerie ambiance to Ledo’s works.

A monthly event, Velvet Renaissance invites a selected artist to showcase their craft using the Velvet Speakeasy as a canvas. The title of the event implies an underlying theme arts that echo that of the Italian Renaissance.

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Not just limited to fine art, the line-up will also include graphic and fashion designers, as well as tattoo and audio artists. Following Ledo’s show, local designer Jean-François Proulx will unveil the “Velvet Book,” a quarterly publication and calendar, as well as the new Velvet graphic identity. The exhibit runs through 18 April 2010.


Temporary Bar by Diogo Aguiar and Teresa Otto

Designers Diogo Aguiar and Teresa Otto of Portugal have designed and built a temporary bar made of 420 IKEA storage boxes for a competition organised by the architecture faculty at the Universidade do Porto in Portugal. (more…)