Seventy Eight Percent

Style, quality and function in a refined accessories line

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Designer Shai Levy launched Seventy Eight Percent three years ago when he saw a gap in the accessories market. “I noticed there were a lot of stylish bags, some of high quality and some that were functional, but I had a hard time finding pieces that combined all three of those qualities,” says Levy. “That’s what our Seventy Eight Percent bags aim to do.”

With a design philosophy that holds quality, functionality and the relationship between individual and object above all else, Levy approaches each project considering the user first. “I think of the creative professional,” says Levy. “The person that needs a bag to be first of all functional and able to carry all the supplies they are going to need for that meeting, and, secondly, a bag that is going to make a statement—the right impression when they bring it into that meeting.” In order to meet these standards, each Seventy Eight Percent piece goes through rigorous working and reworking process starting with a series of paper models and gradually working up to constructions out of leather and canvas.

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Based out of Levy’s new home base in Hong Kong, Seventy Eight Percent sources its materials internationally and its craftsmen locally in order to ensure the highest level of quality. When thinking about materials for Seventy Eight Percent, Levy, an ex-outdoor gear designer, wanted to stay away from the synthetic fibers he knew and work with natural materials. “From the beginning, I knew I wanted to work with vegetable-tanned leather because it ages well, and I wanted the quality of our products to be evident when someone touched them,” says Levy. Using sturdy, Japanese wax-coated canvas and sleek, Italian vegetable-tanned leather, Levy has built a collection of bags designed to last.

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In line with the Seventy Eight Percent philosophy, each bag is handmade, and, as a result of the materials, no piece is the same. With the individual in mind, each bag comes in assortment of sizes and colors ranging from bright blue leather wallets to deep brown messenger bags. Prices range from $625 for the classic Shults briefcase to $110 for the Fritz wallet.

You can find Seventy Eight Percent bags now at Treasure and Bond as well as online where they will be launching a new line of Japanese denim bags by the end of July 2012.


Must…Have…This… Bag!!

Totally had one of those “are you kidding me?” moments when I saw this! The redesigned Solid Gray backpack is a more rigid version of it’s slack counterparts. The futuristic, stealth-style folding bag is made out of PP-C and is extremely light and strong but is also flexible enough to conform to the wearers back. With clever compartments, secure spots for a laptop or tablet, and durability that will last a lifetime, it’s the only backpack you’ll ever need. Not to mention… it’s f&@%ing sexy!

Designer: Lijmbach, Leeuw & Vormgeving


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(Must…Have…This… Bag!! was originally posted on Yanko Design)

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Unit Portables 05-10

Four pieces in one modular overnight bag from the Swedish design company

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Based in the haven for functional modernist design, Stockholm’s Unit Portables is the brainchild of a group of likeminded individuals educated in product, fashion and technology design. Founder Andreas Ehde and his team of creatives designed a modest range of modular bags for the modern traveler, striving to make the ideal bag for practical, organized mobility. Today Unit Portables announces the addition of four new bags that build off the sleek silhouette of their first tote-style shoulder bag launched under a year ago. Anchored by a moderately sized overnight bag, the new range brings Unit Portables a few steps closer towards international recognition.

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Each of the bags, pouches, cases and sleeves are numbered as part of a system, but are free to be used individually or as a whole. Much like the tote, two pouches and iPad sleeve (Units 01-04) released last summer, the overnight bag is denoted by the number 05 rather than a name, along with an accompanying mesh toiletry bag (06), 13″ Macbook case (07) and a small cord organizer pouch (08). The modular pieces can easily be attach with small metal snaps, adding additional storage to either the inside or outside.

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Taking a typically Scandinavian approach to design, the unstructured canvas Unit 05 is decisively minimalist throughout. With one large zipper pocket on the exterior, the interior—like the exterior—features three rows of stitched webbing on one side to accommodate Units 06-10. This purpose-driven approach reduces weight and overall footprint while maintaing a cohesive aesthetic throughout the line.

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While the industrial-strength canvas lacks a certain sense of luxury, the design team behind Unit Portables see their products as a solution to “fill the gap between boring computer bags and snobbish fashion notebook bags.”

We’re partial to the all-black scheme, but Units 05-08 will also be available in beige, green, russet and navy. Set to officially launch on 27 August, Units 05-08 are now available for pre-order with Unit 05 selling for £80 and the rest to be announced.

Images by Graham Hiemstra


Tracey Tanner

Timeless leather accessories from an eco-conscious vegetarian

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Brooklyn-based accessories designer Tracey Tanner aims for the highest level of craftsmanship by meticulously handcrafting all of her leather goods in her home studio. A vegetarian, Tanner studied fashion at Pratt’s School of Art & Design and ironically found herself often creating leather wristbands. Now selling in stores like Fred Segal and ABC Carpet & Home, from the start her mission has been to construct striking but durable accessories that will last for years to come.

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In an attempt to cut down on her carbon footprint and contribute to the local art community, Tanner purchases most of her supplies from NYC-based vendors, and donates any leftover scraps. “At times I feel a little conflicted about creating more ‘stuff.’ I try to make a durable, timeless item that won’t be used and thrown away,” she explains. “The pieces that are too small for me to use, I give to a friend that uses them in her jewelry, thus creating less waste and helping another designer.”

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Tanner’s collection now includes made-to-order handbags as well as eyeglass cases, coin purses and supple pouches in a variety of sizes, perfect for holding everything from makeup to school supplies. All pieces, made with premium Italian hides, are available in subdued natural leather colors, as well as bright motifs that are cut so that no two pouches have exactly the same pattern.

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Recently featured at Rachel Shechtman’s Story shop in Manhattan, Tanner plans to continue expanding her line while remaining “handmade in New York City” throughout all her endeavors. The full line of Tracey Tanner accessories is available for purchase on her website.


Baggu Summer Shop

The colorful eco-bag company opens in Brooklyn
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Since opening Baggu‘s first-ever shop in Williamsburg last month, founder Emily Sugihara has enjoyed watching customers ponder over which of her stylishly functional eco-bags they want to take home. “They’ll be holding a bunch of them, and they’ll put one back and try another one, and look at them all together,” Sugihara says. “I think people feel more ownership of the bags because they’re making their own little set.”

Now based in Brooklyn, Baggu was born in San Diego in 2007, when Sugihara and her mother set out to make beautifully simple alternatives to plastic grocery bags that people would actually look forward to using. Releasing its first nylon bag in eight colors, the brand is now known for its vast array of colorful daypacks in everything from tie-dye to vibrant neons, over-the-shoulder canvas totes called “Duck Bags,” and various sizes of the original, all reasonably priced and manufactured with minimal waste. Most recently, Baggu released a line of leather handbags and small leather pouches, made from the fabric cut from the bags’ necklines.

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Sugihara says the idea to open a Baggu retail store had been on the table for some time, but the company’s decision three months ago to take over their current space on Wythe Avenue, just steps away from Baggu’s offices, was mainly motivated by a need for meeting space. “If two people in the office wanted to talk,” she says, “there was no way to do that without distracting the other 11 people.”

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Turning the meeting space into a summer shop seemed like a real possibility once the block began attracting more foot traffic, with the spring openings of nearby stores Pilgrim Surf + Supply and Mociun. Baggu’s shop then came together rather quickly, says Sugihara. Just days before the opening, she and creative director Ellen Van Der Lean came up with the clever idea to display the bags on rope ladders and swings made from dowel rope and climbing rope (Sugihara is an avid climber).

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The summer shop marks the first time Baggu’s entire product line can be purchased in person from one location. New colors and styles become available at the shop before they appear on the web, simply because that’s where the bags are delivered. At the moment, a number of Baggu pieces—such as a line of neon keychains and the pony hair edition of newly released drawstring bucket purse—are only available in the shop.

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As always, Baggu has a number of collaborations in the works. In July, they will release a sturdy vinyl version of the Duck Bag, made by Brooklyn’s weatherproof bag maker Mer Bags, which Sugihara says “makes a great beach bag.” Baggu is also working with design duo Fredericks and Mae, who will incorporate the designers’ horse hair tassels into a line of leather Baggu bags.

Already proving a successful addition to Williamsburg’s burgeoning waterside promenade, Sugihara plans to keep the shop open at least through the winter holiday season. She is also keeping an eye out for permanent retail space that can stay open seven days a week.

Baggu Summer Shop

242 Wythe Ave. 


Williamsburg, Brooklyn
, NY

Friday-Sunday 
12–8pm


Langly Camera Bags

WWII inspired rucksacks blend form and function

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Any design-minded photographer would agree that when it comes to camera bags, there’s often an unfortunate gap between form and function. On one end you have the ultra tech-centric box bags worthy of space travel and on the other, more stylish end, you don’t have many options at all. To address this discrepancy, LA-based photographer Evan Lane founded Langly bags, a Kickstarter-funded company making rucksack-style camera bags designed for the nomadic photojournalist. Inspired by WWII-era military gear, the two Alpha and Delta bags get the job done with subtle style.

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Essentially two bags in one, the clever design—made with waterproof canvas and rich leather detailing—divides each carryall into two compartments with a single bisecting zipper. The lower portion acts like any regular camera bag, with rearrangeable padded sleeves for a camera body and two lenses, while the top-loading upper serves as a roomy satchel for everything else, with a filleting pocket for your laptop along the back.

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With three days left in the Kickstarter campaign there’s still time to support the already-funded project. Pledge $25 and be rewarded with a 11×17 pigment print shot and printed by Lane, or go all out with $160 or more and receive a Langly bag with your contribution.

via Wired


Jardins Florian + The Good Flock

Portland craftsmanship meets Parisian style in a sustainable tote

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Setting out to make the perfect tote, Parisian design label Jardins Florian teamed up with the Portland-based craftsmen of The Good Flock. Together they have created a stylishly minimal bag that speaks through its quality materials and handsome detailing.

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Made by hand from waxed cotton canvas and vegetable tanned leather, the tote reflects the conscious design approach of both makers, who share a desire to make beautiful functional products with the least environmental impact possible. As Florian Gonzalez, founder of Jardins Florian, explains, the design process was dedicated to the art of “keeping things simple.”

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“We did not want to use any hardware or zips, so that the bag would be made of only two materials, both bio-degradable,” says Gonzalez about their effort to make a tote with a closure. “The design battle to find how to close the bag in an original and functional manner led us to months of prototyping and eventually to the beautiful leather flap one can see on the final model.”

Such rigor is evoked in The Good Flock’s three design principles: “Use wholesome materials, work with a conscience and design with minimal waste.” Marco Murillo, founder of The Good Flock, heralds their work as “products that can be buried in your backyard. They are made of wholesome things that won’t hurt the earth or trees or worms, even the mean ones.”

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Gonzalez describes Jardins Florian as a “modern-day Maison” that designs and sells quality goods. With an exceptional eye for design, Gonzalez also benefits from a savvy approach to collaboration, so far working with luxury brands to create his products. Currently this includes an organic scented candle made with spa brand ila and a customized limited-edition Rolex Watch with Bamford Watch Department.

The Good Flock + Jardins Florian tote bag is available online for £250 (about $387) for a limited time (they indicate the next edition will come in different colors and at a higher price).


HHI Day Pack

Hammarhead Industries’ heavy duty backpack meant for motorcycle commuting

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Known best for their beautifully bad ass repurposed motorcycles, Philadelphia’s Hammarhead Industries recently unveiled their newest custom creation—the HHI Day Pack. The easy to open roll top bag finds its inspiration in everyday use, designed as a “minimal bag suitable for riding and capable of holding the tools of modern life.” Brooklyn’s d’emploi constructs each bag entirely with American made materials, making this paired down pack your perfect no-frills bag able to take a beating and only get better with wear.

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When a client asked for an all purpose bag that’d match the rugged aesthetic of his custom Jack Pine motorcycle, Hammarhead’s designers realized they couldn’t recommend one, so they made it instead. After dissecting over 30 old military bags to see how different materials held up over time with little to no upkeep, they decided on a 15 oz Martexin waxed cotton canvas shell partially wrapped in salvaged leather from a NYC bootmaker for support and protection. For hardware they chose an unbreakable buckle originally made to hold a parachute and nylon webbing from a racing harness manufacturer in the Midwest.

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When worn the waterproof bag sits perfectly into the small of your back for a comfortable riding position no matter how heavy the load, and the nylon straps are impressively easy to adjust with a quick pull. Inside the bag you’ll find a large main compartment the exact size of a full bag of groceries—or a 24 pack—and three padded pouches ideal of a laptop, iPad or notebook.

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While this beast was specifically built to withstand the abuse of motorcycle commuting while avoiding the over designed look of most messenger bags, it actually works quite well as a bicycle bag as well. The lower leather side pouches are the perfect size for a medium sized u-lock and are conveniently placed in the right position for accessing miscellaneous things like lights, keys or even a water bottle. The HHI Day Pack is available now directly from Hammarhead Industries for $290.

Images by Graham Hiemstra


Wendy

Preparation begins for MoMa PS1’s new air-scrubbing nylon star

by Francesca Giuliani

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The nylon air-cleansing concept that won MoMa PS1‘s 2012 Young Architects Program, Wendy is now set to grace the Long Island City museum’s courtyard during the forthcoming summer months. Designed by New York-based architecture firm HWKN, the project aims to test the potential of architecture for ecological and social impact. Treated with a innovative titania nanoparticle spray to neutralize airborne pollutants, during its time at MoMA PS1 Wendy is projected to eat a quantity of smog equivalent to removing 260 cars from the road.

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The website features a video preview of the final installation, demonstrating Wendy’s ability to interact with its surroundings through blasts of cool air, mist, water cannons and music.

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HWKN is seeking a host of volunteers to help bring the sustainable structure to life. For those wishing to contribute to Wendy’s assembly between 15 May and 26 June 2012, a volunteer application is available on the website (non-architects are welcome).

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Wendy’s website also offers the opportunity to buy t-shirts and totes created by designers 2×4, Bruce Mau Design and Pentagram. Coated in the same titania nanoparticles as Wendy, the shirts and bags will expand the nylon star’s air-scrubbing action beyond PS1’s courtyard.


Bottega Veneta Initials

When your own initials are enough
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Bottega Veneta joined the personalization club today with the launch of their Initials line at a five day pop up shop within their Milan showroom during the city’s busy design fair, and online through a specialized Initials site. Their trademark intrecciato (woven) pattern has become synonymous with subtle luxury and fine craftsmanship, and their beautifully rich leather goods have earned a cult following for their elegance as well as their durability. As Goyard, Louis Vuitton, Gucci and other luxury leather goods companies have long offered personalization, it’s moved from a trend to an integral way to make these products your own. Feeling its products were not properly constructed to support monograms however, Bottega Veneta put a plan in place to create a new collection designed exclusively for the program.

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We were invited to stop by the pop up shop to see the product first-hand and to go through the personalization process. The familiar feeling line includes a variety of totes, wallets, handbags, messenger bags, an iPad case and a belt, ranging in price from $350 – $2,150. Though similar in shape and size to existing products, the 15 items in the mens/womens/unisex collection have in fact been reengineered with different Nappa leathers; the women’s products use lambskin for a softer and slouchier effect, the men’s use calfskin and are thicker, firmer and sturdier. The suede backing is new for the collection, and consideration has gone into the design process to determine where your initials should sit on the product.

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Bottega selected a handful of expert artisans to carry out the hand painted monogram process with careful precision that’s only developed over a lifetime. While many of the editors on hand chose a combination of the type options—six colors of the leather, three sizes and eight colors of the letters—we stuck to a monotone palette that’s subtle but still makes a statement.

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The Bottega Initials site is already operating and well worth a mention as well. Inviting you to enter your initials upon entry, the well designed site presents all products sporting your monogram already, offering a glimpse at what could be. You can then modify the size and color of the letters until you get it just right. If you’re looking for a bigger statement, personalized luggage is scheduled to arrive later this year.

For a closer look at the pop up shop and its offers see the gallery below.

by Evan Orensten and Graham Hiemstra