GANT Rugger Fall/Winter 2012

A conversation with Chris Bastin on this season’s foodie inspiration
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As the Creative Director of GANT, Chris Bastin took the unlikely realms of food and restaurant life and embedded it into the DNA of his upcoming Fall/Winter 2012 collection. Known for crazy dinner parties in Stockholm, Bastin weighs in on what we can expect from his latest range.

Your Fall/Winter 2012 collection is intimately connected to three related pillars: food, eating and the modern restaurant scene in New York. How did this idea come to play? What inspired this foodie collection?

I’ve always been interested in cooking and food. It struck me that there has been a strong connection between what has been happening with the whole Americana-heritage scene and the slow food movement. Both pay close attention to quality and process. It felt natural to let these two influential movements merge together—weird as that may seem.

You’ve compared the process of cooking to the process of making clothes—how so?

Both begin with a sort of mise en place—the basics you need to either create a good dish or a great garment. We’ve always looked at GANT Rugger as a great example of the perfect wardrobe. Start with the classics and bare essentials and then move up the ladder to quirky pieces and not-so-essential gear. It’s kind of like complementing a simple pasta with a very good red wine. The biggest difference is that while a collection takes about six months, a killer meal can be put together in ten minutes. That’s the exact amount of time you need to whip up pasta aglio e olio. Then there’s the whole aspect of quality. If you want to make the best food, you’ll need good ingredients. The same goes for a shirt.

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The collection is comprised of two “characters” so to speak–the restaurateur and the chef. How would you define these two roles as they related to your collection?

GANT Rugger is a heritage and vintage driven line but there is also a big chunk of sprezzatura that we wanted to come through. The chef ended up being the “vintage nerd” and the owner was given more room to show off and be the peacock—a winning combination.

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How did you ensure these two characters were portrayed in your lookbook?

The chef took care of the denim and utility gear while the owner always got the more dressed up looks. You can clearly see these two characters in our fall lookbook.

There’s also a “third character” in some ways–the products that accompany the clothing. Can you tell me a little bit about what these are? Also, why were these products integral to the formation of this collection?

Sometimes I wonder if this whole collection was just an excuse to design a chef’s knife and an apron in selvage denim. I mean, come on, who wouldn’t want to design their own knife? That is like a dream come true. And to work with someone like Michael Lishinsky at Wildfire Cutlery in Portland, Oregon was the icing on the cake. That dude is the best.

I know you’re a total foodie–what are some of your favorite restaurants around the globe?

In Stockholm I have to say Daphne’s, for the crowd and the ambience. In NYC, Omen has great Japanese food. The Standard Grill is amazing for breakfast. Italy is easy; basically go into any place that looks like crap as long as someone who looks like your grandma is behind the stove. She’s probably going to serve up the best pasta you’ve ever had.

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What’s your favorite dish to cook?

Right now it’s pulled pork. Since I bought this monster of a thing from Weber I just want to smoke stuff, low temp. I’ve smoked everything with a heartbeat in the past year.

I hear you throw crazy dinner parties in Stockholm. How do I score an invite?

That’s probably the best rumor I’ve ever heard. But it’s totally untrue though. But hey, bring a nice bottle of red and ring the doorbell.

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What can we expect from the ad campaign which I hear will feature two individuals immersed in the food world?

Definitely amazing pictures, good styling and a slightly chubbier designer. We collaborated with Ben and Phil from The Fat Radish this time around. The guys look great in our clothes, and of course we think the food at their restaurant in New York City’s Lower East side is simply amazing.

There’s been much talk about “unkempt sprezzatura”–what exactly is this?

Has there, really? I’m very happy anyone even noticed. I think the term is quite clever. It’s about getting out of bed, throwing on whatever and still looking like a million bucks. It’s a look based on American sportswear mixed with Italian flair, but without all the fuss.


Linda Nguyen

Our interview with the founder of LOVE + MADE
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Linda Nguyen and her partner, Tammy Le, are the heart and vision behind LOVE + MADE, the fashion-forward lifestyle brand and events and marketing company. Since 2007, LOVE + MADE has been leaving its mark with a signature style of pop aesthetics in designing for such high-profile clients as Vans and WeSC.

Cutting her teeth at Obey, Shepard Fairey’s punk-infused streetwear line, Nguyen quickly distinguished herself by launching the company’s first women’s line. Serving as Lauryn Hill’s fashion assistant to leading the LA chapter of the networking group, Ladies Lotto, Nguyen’s skyrocket success has encompassed a perfect blend of feminine sass and savvy. Working with an all-female team, LOVE + MADE continues to lead the way with an upcoming LOVE + MADE candle collection, Royal Elastics shoe collaboration and also a Stussy x Lovemade collaboration which launches in Stussy stores next week.

What were your interests/influences growing up and what was your background prior to starting LOVE + MADE?

As a teenager, I was fascinated with hip-hop culture. I began producing a monthly event called “L_ephunk” which showcased up-and-coming artists from LA and San Francisco. Living and growing up in Orange County, there was a lack of culture and diversity so being able to help put a spotlight on new talent and offer something fresh to my community felt really rewarding.

Event production provided me with experience in running a small business. It was also through L_ephunk that I discovered my passion for creating and for bringing people together. That same passion eventually translated over to my interest in design. I began hand-making accessories under “StenciL,” a new brand I started.

At 21, I started an internship at Obey assisting the menswear designer. Just six months after landing the internship, I was awarded with a position as the women’s designer through which I helped Obey launch their first women’s line. Since then I have worked in-house and as a freelance designer for brands like L-R-G, Burton, WeSC, Shaun White for TARGET and Vans.

What inspired LOVE + MADE and what is it like working with an all-female team? How did you and Tammy Le meet?

My business partner/best friend Tammy and I met in the 6th grade. We started LOVE + MADE in 2007, driven by the desire to have something of our own. The concept of our brand is in the name. To put it simply, the collective promotes doing and making something from the heart. LOVE + MADE was, and still is, a labor of love and we wanted to convey that in our brand name.

LOVE + MADE is unique in that a big part of our mission is to support, inspire, and empower other brands. We aren’t trying to bash on the boys or push this whole “Girls Rule, Boys Drool” agenda. We’ve simply learned that in the male- dominated lifestyle market, we need more of a strong female perspective.

Please tell us a little about Ladies Lotto and how you got involved.

Ladies Lotto is a lifestyle and networking community founded by Natalie Blacker. It aims to encourage independent women to think about and do business differently by providing them with a space to meet, network, mingle and get inspired. I’ve been involved with Ladies Lotto since attending my first meeting in NYC four years ago.

What sort of brands do you enjoy working with and what sort of demographic do you design for?

We love working with brands like INSIGHT on events, and Stussy for designs. We love lifestyle brands and the whole streetwear culture. We design for the girl who loves fashion, art, music and all things creative. She is strong, independent and driven. She is diverse in her tastes and influences and embraces her femininity.

What are some examples of events that you’ve helped put on and what were some of your stylistic influences?

You’ll always find good music, eclectic company, and fashion-forward attendees at our events. The typical LOVE + MADE-produced event features an array of female talent ranging from DJs and artists to photographers and dancers. If LOVE + MADE is involved you can always expect a line of ladies out the door; we always respect the ratio. We also get hired to promote other companies’ events. Some of our clients have included Puma, Urban Outfitters, Reebok, DimMak and KSwiss. We’ve helped companies promote everything from monthly music events to launch parties.

How would you describe your personal style?

Always a pop of color, whether it’s in my bright lipstick, nails or shoes.

What are some personal highlights.?

One of my biggest career highlights was turning an internship into a design position at OBEY. It changed everything and jump-started my induction into the fashion world. Other moments that stand out include traveling with recording artist Lauryn Hill to South Africa for a styling gig in 2006 and my first LOVE + MADE handbag design with Matahari.

What career advice that you would give?

Surround yourself with people that inspire you, know that internships and networking can take you further than you think, and turn your ideas into projects.

What are you currently working on and what do you have in the works for the future?

I am currently working on a Stussy x LOVE + MADE collaboration that launches this August at Stussy stores and boutiques worldwide. Our goal is to continually expand our product category—we want to venture into home and cosmetics, even electronics. LOVE + MADE plans to continue collaborating with individuals and brands that reflect the lifestyle we support. In the next year, we will be launching home products and apparel.

The core values of the Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Altitude Edition are edge, strength and innovation. Which of these values do you personally identify with in your life and why?

I really identify with all of Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Altitude Edition’s values in both my professional and personal life. Staying cutting-edge and innovative are unchanging goals for me as a designer. I’m constantly trying to come up with fresh ideas that exhibit skilled craftsmanship and exceptional quality of product.

In my personal life, I define edge as taking chances and making game-changing decisions in my day-to-day life. I continually strive to maintain strength in self-motivation and innovation through looking to new perspectives in not just personal style, but lifestyle.


Askov Finlayson

Minneapolis retail innovators Eric and Andrew Dayton talk about their one-stop shop

By Joan Erakit

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Askov Finlayson owners and founders, brothers Eric and Andrew Dayton believe in a simple design philosophy: keep it fun. The lighthearted approach they took to their men’s retail store in Minneapolis’s North Loop neighborhood highlights their personal style and aesthetic while removing any pretense. Founded in October 2011 as the retail component to their space that also includes their Nordic-style restaurant, The Bachelor Farmer, and Marvel Bar, Askov Finlayson rounds out the offerings while reflecting their sense of entrepreneurial creativity.

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The handsome space features wall-to-wall exposed brick, high ceilings and antique rugs, making for the prime setting to showcase a selection that can be hard to come by in Minnesota. Merchandised with the idea of creating a comfortable space reflective of the Daytons’ laid-back style, the arrangement of clothing and accessories among home goods and design objects makes the visitor feel at home while shopping.

We dropped by Askov Finlayson to chat with the brothers during their annual Krafstkiva festival, a traditional Nordic celebration in August boasting fresh crayfish, live bands and plenty of brews.

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What was the concept behind Marvel Bar, The Bachelor Farmer and Askov Finlayson? Why all three spaces in one location, and why here in Minneapolis?

Eric: Well, this was a neighborhood we knew well. We both live nearby—just down the river from here—so we go to Moose and Sadies for coffee and we visit the small shops in the area. It was still pretty early on in the development, so it was a neighborhood we saw heading in a promising direction and would be something exciting to be a part of, and that was as far as our thinking had gone. We weren’t really actively looking, it was just something fun to think about. We were both away at different grad schools outside of Minnesota, and I heard from a friend about this particular building—this guy who owned it for 30 years or so and kind of tinkered around in here, and he would never entertain offers and wasn’t interested in selling. So it wasn’t an abandoned building, but it was a pretty closed-off building.

Andrew: There was a little sign on the front door—which is now the retail space—and he must have gotten a lot of inquiries because he had a little sign up on the door that more or less said, “Not for sale. Don’t even ask. Go away.”

So how did the building end up in your hands?

Eric: It went from the “Don’t even bother asking, go away” building to finally there being a little “For Sale” sign in the window, and a friend called me. I was out in California at school, and my friend said that the building is now for sale and you should check it out. So it began with a phone call inquiry, and then I came home from California. I spent more and more time in the building, and because there was a lot of space—it was probably more space than we would want to do just a store or just a restaurant, or just a bar—it became this opportunity to combine a few different ideas and shared interest that Andrew and I had. We could just sort of see how it could fit well together. It was something that we’d seen in other places done well—maybe it was in the same building, maybe it wasn’t. For example, a hotel where you have a restaurant and a bar, and maybe there’s a retail component. We liked the idea of the three different pieces, each being separate, each having its own identity, but working well together and driving energy that would be shared between businesses.

You might come from dinner and stay for a drink, or come to shop and then meet and friend for dinner—whatever people want to do with it—but it could also be kind of a community hub and something of a clubhouse feel without the private membership aspect—a place where people could feel at home.

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What went into designing the retail space?

Andrew: The store was…I don’t want to say the “least” planned-out, because we put a lot of work into it, but when we built out the restaurant, we worked with a contractor that had experience with projects of this magnitude and really helped us do a great layout in terms of what was best for the diners, what was best for the kitchen and everything else. That was a main focus of our dealings—same with the bar. But for the store, we decided that we were going to go a different route, and we worked with a local woodworker who helped us conceptualize the space and built the main point-of-sale stand, the moving racks and the bench on the window sill. Beyond that, it was just found tables, two chairs from my apartment and a rug from my apartment.

Wow, it really came together on a shoe string.

Andrew: Yeah, we wanted it to feel eclectic to a certain extent. The merchandise is a representation of items that we’ve found and fallen for over the years, and we wanted the components and fixtures of the store to feel the same way. As opposed to working with a contractor to build it out, we put it together ourselves. It was fun.

Eric: It’s the space that’s evolved the most since we opened. When I think of where it was when we opened and where it is now, it’s been fun to see it evolve as we’ve added more brands and expanded in new categories. Now with the help of Charlie Ward—who is the studio assistant for Alec Soth, the photographer whose work we have hanging in the main dinning room—we are putting together some really great art books. Now it’s like, “Where are we going to put all our art books?” We go out to the salvage shops out in Northeast, and we find an old baker’s rack, and now we’ve got that for books. With the restaurant and the bar we sort of knew what those needed to look like from the beginning, whereas with the store, we’ve kind of been learning or moving things around, and it’s not done even done yet.

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Do you guys do all the buying for your merchandise?

Andrew: Yeah, we were in New York just two weeks ago for market week, and we’ve been out there about three times. We opened the store last October, and the restaurant last August, so the first time we went out there, we didn’t have a space, we had business cards. It was sort of interesting walking out there and trying to sell ourselves. We basically said, “We’re going to open this cool store. You can’t see it yet, it doesn’t exist, but sell us your stuff.” Fortunately folks were willing to take a leap of faith with us.

Eric: We really had to trick the first couple of brands into selling to us.

Eric: I can’t remember who we lined up first, but I think it helped that, in Minneapolis, we were going after brands that weren’t here and so they were excited for a new market. We also explained the whole project and they where excited by that, but we really had to bluff our way through those first couple of meetings.

Andrew: The whole project is personal to a certain extent. We put a lot of our time, energy and resources into getting this off the ground, but the store in general, I’d say, is the most personal. With the restaurant we’ve been able to manage thee vision and drive it forward, and really rely on our team and great management. We’re not cooking the food, and you wouldn’t want me serving your table. It’s still really a meaningful part of what we do every day, but it’s not personal at the level of the store, where we’re going to New York and making the final call in what we’re carrying. So in that sense, it’s sort of the most hands-on project.

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In the selection process with the brands that you’re bringing in, do they mimic your own personal styles?

Andrew: Yeah, I think there’s a lot of overlap between Eric’s and my personal taste. We’re not redundant, we have different perspectives to a certain extent and there’s enough that we disagree on where I think the selection process is paired down to what is usually the better result.

When someone comes into any of the three spaces, is there a specific experience you want them to have?

Eric: We want them to have a good time and to have fun. Something we had in mind with the restaurant and the bar—without going overboard or hamming it up—was how many different moments can we create to make someone smile, where there’s going to be a little unexpected detail. Maybe they’ll miss it, maybe they won’t care, but if they notice it and they do care, they will appreciate that we were thoughtful about whatever that is. There’s hopefully a sense of fun or whimsy and playfulness in the design, and it’s not meant to be too self-conscious or taken too seriously. There are a lot of colors and patterns, and it’s meant to have a good energy that way—I’d say downstairs especially with Marvel, but also in the store as well. There’s substance and quality in everything we carry, but it’s meant to be fun.

Andrew: I think people experience it in different ways too. Some people come into the restaurant and what wows them is the history of the building. It’s this great old space which was built in 1902, and the front portion where the store lives was built in 1881. There’s a lot of history here and I think some people come in and they’re excited by the historic setting of the meal or the historic setting of the shopping experience—and some people come in and they’re excited by the design, the colors and the patterns. In the store, people may come in and come across a great classic Barbour coat that has a real timeless feel to it, or someone might come in and be drawn to something a bit more ambitious with colors and whatnot. I think it’s been set up in a way where people can sort of take from it what they want.

Images by Taimoor Dar


I Am Eleven

Kids talk to filmmaker Genevieve Bailey about that magical age

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What was your favorite age? For Melbourne-based filmmaker, writer and editor Genevieve Bailey it was 11. In 2005, armed with a plane ticket generously gifted by her uncle and a head full of ideas, Bailey set off to interview 11-year-olds across the globe about their views on the world, politics and their hope for the future. What started as a short film became a labor of love spanning seven years and multiple countries. The resulting documentary, “I Am Eleven,” takes audiences on an uplifting journey into the minds of those who will inherit the world we have created. The film has won numerous awards including Best Documentary at the IF Awards and Outstanding Documentary at the Newport Beach Film Festival, and has been playing to crowded audiences since it began screening in Australia this July. In addition to working as a filmmaker, editor and writer, Bailey spends a great deal of her time working for Darling Heart Foundation at the “Our Home” homeless shelter in Kerala, India. We caught up with Bailey as she finished a nine-hour day of screenings to discuss hard work, holding on to a dream and why her parents never had to push her to complete her homework.

Does it feel good to finally see the film playing in cinemas in your own country?

Yeah, it’s very exciting. A lot of people in Melbourne know about it. I was putting up posters on Friday night for four hours in the city in my parka. I was on my own thinking, “Oh, I need 20 of me.” It was freezing and every ten minutes I’d think, “Oh just another half an hour.” And people were watching me and I’d say, “Hey, come and see my film” and people would go, “Your film? What do you mean ‘your’ film?,” and I’d be like, “I made it.” People look at you like if you’re the girl in the parka and the beanie sticking up posters late at night you’re not the person who made it.

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How did you get into film? Was it something you always knew you’d do or did you initially begin another career?

When I was young, I was a real math and science geek. I guess I got to 15 and realized I really loved shooting stuff. So, I decided then that I wanted to go to university and study film. I did that for four years and did Honors and then went back and started teaching at my old course. I just really love it and feel inspired every day by the stories going around in my head. I guess I have a sense of urgency about my work—which might sound a bit ironic considering the time I spent on this film—but I just have this sense of urgency about getting stuff done now rather than putting it off and waiting. I was never someone who had to be asked if they’d done their homework. I’ve always just got on and done things.

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This is your first feature-length film after making a lot of shorts. How did the idea come about?

It was around 2004 and I’d been through a difficult time. My dad passed away and I’d been in a serious car accident six months prior, and I was depressed. I was working in a newsroom at the Herald Sun as an editorial assistant, shooting news videos and just realizing how much bad stuff there was going on in the world. I was feeling really flat and I guess I wanted to make something that would make me happy. At its simplest, what I really wanted to do was to make audiences and me happy and that’s why I set out to make “I Am Eleven.”

I’d never been outside of Australia so I wanted to give myself a challenge of going around the world, but rather than just hanging out with people like me or backpackers, I wanted to actually experience cultures firsthand in quite an intimate way. So, I thought back to my favorite age in life and that was when I was eleven. And I thought, wow, I wonder what it would be like to be 11 today and I wonder if 11 is still the special age that I remember it to be or if it’s changed. My plan was to find 11-year-olds and interview them. I was incredibly fortunate in that my uncle, after hearing about my dreams, donated the price of the plane fare and I was then able to upgrade the camera I had. I come from a family where those sorts of gifts are not just handed out easily so it was incredible that I had that support and belief from the very start.

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The subjects in your film all seem really open, honest and genuine. How did you locate these 11-year-olds and how did you get them to trust you?

In every country there were schools and in every school there would be 11-year-olds, but I decided early on not to go down that route because I knew there would be a filtering process. An adult, usually a teacher, would perhaps choose the brightest students or the student who really wanted to be an actor or a performer. And even though those kids would be interesting, I wanted to see what I found more organically. I found such amazing boys and girls and such fantastic personalities in such a random way that I decided that would be my style. I’d arrive in a new city, talk to people, and go out on to the streets, go to market places and shops, talk to the locals and ask if they had any kids or if they knew people with kids. That became part of the adventure.

A lot of people comment on how hard it must have been for the kids to be so natural. They’re very intimate portraits. It’s my job as a director and producer to gain their trust and their family’s trust and to make them comfortable. If I was in a film and I wasn’t comfortable with the person behind the camera it wouldn’t be an accurate portrayal of who I am. In a lot of cases I think the kids thought that since I wasn’t that much older than them and because my gear wasn’t that big and didn’t look that sophisticated, that it was like hanging out with an older friend and just being themselves. I didn’t have any parents not allow me to do it. One thing I did that I’d recommend to other filmmakers is to set up a website quite early on and put a trailer up so that audiences could have a look at it. Word of mouth was spreading about the project before it was even finished. From a marketing point of view that was good for us, but it also meant that the parents could check out the website and get a sense for what it was and that I wasn’t a creep and that it was a legitimate project.

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Seven years is a long time to work on any creative project. What kept you motivated?

When I started making the film, I imagined what the synopsis would be even before I started filming. And I thought “Yeah, I’d want to see that.” When I started this, I could never have known how big it would become in my life or how many years it would take but I always knew it would sustain my interest. I think, as filmmakers, you can start a project without any idea of just how much it will consume your life. The fact that the kids are so inspiring and insightful and that they made me laugh, and made me really think, has meant that I’ve been able to continue to work on it and market it. The kids speak for themselves. I think because of the nature of the film people leave feeling really quite pumped. They come out of the cinema really energized. It reminds them of their own inner 11-year-old and that energy.

I recently spoke with a woman who was coming out of one of our screenings. She came over to me and said, “I need to speak with you! I’m turning 80 this year and I’ve been reminding myself I need to slow down. I want to be here, there and everywhere doing everything but I keep getting told to slow down. After seeing your film and hearing you speak I just think, well, why? Why do I need to slow down? I’m not going to! I’m going to get off my bum and just do things, do everything.”

The film and the kids in it, most specifically, have given me this sense of self-belief and courage. I’m definitely not an arrogant person or overly confident but I do have this belief that if you work hard enough and you’re passionate enough, you can make stuff happen.

“I Am Eleven” is currently screening in cinemas across Australia. Find out more by watching the trailer. Any international film festival, distribution or sales inquiries can be sent to screenings[at]iameleven[dot]com. To let others know what you were doing at 11, visit “When I Was Eleven.”


The Immortal

Revital Cohen on the design of “artificial biology”

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Repurposing a retired greyhound racer as a human respirator or a pet sheep as a human dialysis machine represent the type of concepts that irreparably change your understanding of what design can do. How about an electricity-generating human organ that can be implanted to replace the appendix? Such is London-based designer Revital Cohen’s specialization: pushing the applications of design into the realm of what seems like science fiction, holding back just before it leaves reality. Fictional ideas might be all too easy to dismiss as flights of fancy, but Cohen does not just pluck them from the sky—hers are consciously based on the newest scientific research.

A 2008 RCA Design Interactions graduate, Cohen is now in the process of establishing a collaborative studio with partner and fellow graduate Tuur van Balen. Over the past four years, her work has been included in seminal exhibitions, such as MoMA’s Talk To Me exhibition in 2011 and the Why Design Now? triennial at the Cooper-Hewitt in 2010.

Her most recent work, The Immortal, entails a dialysis machine, heart-lung machine, infant incubator, chemical ventilator and a cell saver all hooked up to each other in a seamless exchange of air and “blood” (salty water for these purposes). We recently asked Cohen about this project and more. See the interview below.

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The Immortal has been in the making for quite a few years now, where did it all begin?

It started as a thought experiment and has now become a reality. I have been fascinated in these objects since my Life Support Project . They are so meaningful but we never see them unless we use them, which means we never really discuss them in the context of material culture or design — how they are designed, by whom and what their design problems are. They are one of the most important and significant things we will ever use but they never get much attention beyond the engineering and technicality. I wanted to do this experiment to make people see these things and think about these machines.

Your fascination with these objects also comes out in your video, The Posthuman Condition. Are these projects related?

Actually the video is the research that became Life Support Project and was shot in a dialysis ward in a hospital. These stories first inspired the Life Support Project. Secondly it made me think that there are these objects that live secret lives, which normally people don’t ever see. That stayed with me and has now become The Immortal. As a designer it is interesting to think not only about redesigning these objects and how they are made, but also about the stories they tell.

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What are the stories being told in The Immortal?

For one thing, these particular machines tell the story about how we perceive our bodies in Western culture. For example, this type of machine has never been invented in China because in Chinese medicine, their perception of the body is completely different. The machines in The Immortal emphasise that Western medicine sees the circle of life to be the heart and lungs. We completely ignore the digestive system. Chinese medicine looks at the body on a more chemical level and places a huge emphasis on the digestive system.

So these objects really tell social and cultural stories. They are also objects that make us think about ethics and questions of prolonging life, cheating death, living an artificial life, euthanasia, living on machines when electricity consumption is bad for the planet… They just have so much grey area surrounding them.

You have described this project as “artificial biology”. What does that mean?

These machines reflect human attempts at biology. However it can’t really be done through mechanics or, if it is done through mechanics, it is so removed from anything that is biological. The installation takes up a whole room and it’s not even all the functions we carry in our little bodies everywhere. When we try to replicate biology, it’s amazing how complicated things have to be.

What really interests me is the point of connection between the natural and the artificial — how we try to design organic things using artificial materials and how we try to control nature. All of the tools we have are designed — everything in our houses, as well as our cars and even roads. Once we have the tools to design the natural world, the question is how will we apply our artificial tools to biological material?

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Would you ever redesign the actual medical life support machines?

I have thought about that as a potential future project. Maybe, but at the moment for me it’s more about telling a story that makes the audience come out of the room thinking about these questions and objects.

What are the applications and purpose of your design practice?

That’s something I’m reviewing all the time. It’s always been to inspire people. To keep myself interested by asking questions I don’t know the answer to. To explore the nature of objects and the design of biology.

Design biology is still a very conceptual thing to look into, but it is going to become a reality in years to come. What my and Tuur van Balen’s studio’s work will engage with are the implications of these new applications, imagining how they will be used and looking into the grey areas of designing bodies, biology and nature, and the meaning of nature whether designed or not. We’re trying to bring these questions up and make them part of the design debate.


Diesel Only the Brave Tattoo

Translating the tattoo experience into fragrance form
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Exploring another form of signature for the body, the new Diesel fragrance, Only the Brave Tattoo, treats the skin as a true, basic and raw material to express one’s identity. Only the Brave finds inspiration in the deeply rooted tradition of marking the body with an everlasting imprint, seeking to inaugurate a new man with the traditional masculine traits of toughness and courage.

The fragrance marks yet another component to the lifestyle Diesel aims to create amidst a universe characterized by the rebel attitude of street art and LA’s inked community. The sculptural bottle comprises a clenched black fist designed by the famous Mr Cartoon tattoo artist. The scent blends base notes of tobacco, benzoin, patchouli and amber, with sexy overtones of pepper and sage and refreshing green qualities that keep the inherently male scent from being too heavy.

We talked to Diesel founder Renzo Rosso to learn more.

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Is it a requirement for a fashion brand to make its own fragrance?

Since it completes the lifestyle, it is very important. It is easy to create clothing, but how to transfer a lifestyle into a fragrance—this is the difficulty. Creating a fragrance is a risky challenge by itself, considering the fact that about 300 new perfumes are launched on the market every year and that about 90% of those don’t meet any success. We were lucky to meet our partner, L’Oréal, who made it all easier for us and granted us a dedicated team that tirelessly visited our stores all over the world and met our clients and really went deep into our mentality to transfer it into the bottle. This fragrance is a part of the Diesel attitude. Each time we do something, it is because it is meaningful. We keep telling a story.

Can you tell us more about the new Diesel man that goes along with this new fragrance?

This is really connected with who we are. With the two fragrances, Only the Brave and Only the Brave Tattoo, we have these two men with two different attitudes that we have tried to show on the visuals of the campaign. It seems they are about to fight, but at the end the important thing is the communication between them. While one is more classic, brave and strong, the tattooed man is more mysterious, more rough and sexy, and at the end, more rock ‘n’ roll. Rock attitude is something very important to our lines now.

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Does it represent a shift in Diesel strategy?

There is definitely a repositioning of the brand. We are trying diversify by creating a real lifestyle focused on our own identity and DNA. We aim to improve the quality of our products by making more in Italy, for example. I think what you can see in our stores is becoming more beautiful. We aim to be more exclusive.

This new man is not only more rock ‘n’ roll, he also seems more mature.

Yes, we have this new line Diesel Black Gold. The preview of the first men’s collection was shown last week in Milan, and it marks a higher positioning for us. We are enlarging the scope of our audience, enabling people to find a style according to what they are and what they can afford. There is a lifestyle for everyone.

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Since a tattoo is an imprint, a mark, a signature on the skin, how do you transfer that into a perfume?

I’m going to tell you the story. It all started with the bottle. It was my 55th birthday, which is a special anniversary for I was born in 1955. Fifty-five is my magic number. I wanted to give my friends a gift, so I had my hand sculpted into a bottle that was all black and customized with Only the Brave. It was such a success and everybody liked it so much that we decided this bottle should be distributed worldwide. I have these tattoos on my hand as well. So I thought I could do something out of this. Then I met Mr Cartoon who I found to be very much like me—he has a sense of honor and creativity, and he’s crazy. He designed the bottle and the logotype. After that, I asked L’Oréal to make a new perfume and translate my new rock ‘n’ roll attitude, my mentality, my passion, my positive energy into a perfume. This perfume completes the first Only the Brave fragrance, which was somehow fresher, younger and casual, and pushes it further—this one is more aggressive.

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The bottle and packaging is all black and white.

It is more than black and white, it is very strong. I wish it could have been black only! Black and white makes it very chic.

What about the connection with LA? Do you find inspiration in LA’s culture and street art?

I am a fan of the Rose Bowl flea market in LA. I spend hours there with my sons. I always come back with so many ideas. I like art in general, modern art, like at the Art Basel exhibition in Miami. If you take the bottle Only the Brave, the clenched fist is something the artist Cesar has made in his sculptures. We try to find inspiration in the streets where there’s life.

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What is inspiring you in music and culture?

Anything can be inspiring. Last time I went to Tokyo, I was so impressed by everything I saw in the fruit shops especially the packagings. I can be inspired by people in the street, by what they wear, or by places like Reykjavik, Covent garden and, above all, flea markets. I also enjoy speaking with young artists and trying to know more about why they create. This opens your brain.

Is there any advice you have for young artists or entrepreneurs?

I dislike art being too provocative. Art must open your body and make people be happy. I like to see happy endings!


Gabriel Dawe

Challenging machismo through hypnotically vibrant thread installations

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Growing up as a boy in Mexico, Gabriel Dawe was forbidden to explore the artistic elements of textiles and embroidery, an area thought to be reserved for women. Nevertheless, the color and intensity of Mexican culture began to appear in his artwork after moving to Montreal in 2000. Now based out of Texas, the mixed media artist has made a career out of the mind-bending thread installations that compose the “Plexus” series.

Citing artist Anish Kapoor as a major influence, Dawe creates complex, colorful and often vertigo-inducing spatial structures, which are meant to evoke the invisible forces that shape our existence—such as social norms and expectations—and to draw our attention to the invisible order amidst the chaos of life. On a much more superficial level, the installations are visually beautiful, and seem to make the intangible visible.

As he prepares for the solo show “The Density of Light” at Lot 10 in Brussels, we spoke to the artist about process, masculinity and the peculiarities of light.

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What is it like to approach a new installation space?

My work consists of devising the arrangement of the structure I’m going to make with the thread. These installations are site-specific, which means that every new installation has to be created for that particular space. They also have to be done in the space itself, which means that I cannot create them in advance and then transport it.

The process begins with some sort of dialog with the space where the installation is going to be. Every room has particularities that offer possibilities and restrictions to what I can do. Once I decide where to put the wood structures that hold the hooks that serve as anchor points, I start to devise how and in what sequence I am going to link those anchor points, as well as what color progression I will use. It’s usually a lot of planning, so that when I get to the space I can execute my plan as seamlessly as possible.

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Can you tell us a bit about the process and the thread that you use?

The thread is regular sewing thread, 100% polyester, and it comes in a wide variety of colors, so I don’t do any of the dyeing myself. Usually each color is a unique long piece of thread, held in place by mere tension. Sometimes I use more than one spool of a certain color, but I just tie together the ends and continue with the installation. The color mixing really occurs in the space, a byproduct of the process. Plexus no. 9 has 5,000 meters of each color, a total of 60 kilometers, which comes to about 37 miles.

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How do these new pieces for the “Density of Light” exhibit differ from your previous work?

Because this work is not a studio practice and it relies on having to work in different spaces, every new installation offers the opportunity to try something new, or a different variation of something I’ve already tried. In this way, they are constantly evolving and changing. The particularities of Lot 10, (where 13 and 14 will be) allow me to revisit certain structures I’ve worked on in the past, but with a new variation that will give them a distinct look.

For Plexus no. 13, I’m doing three intersecting structures, similar to No. 6, but with three big differences: the proportions are much different; the placement of the wooden structures, which are at a different angles; and the color sequence. Plexus no. 14 will be a take on one of my very first ideas, which until now I hadn’t had a chance to try.

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What about the name, “The Density of Light”?

Very early on in the series, the idea of light became an intrinsic part of these installations. Because I use regular sewing thread on an architectural scale, the structures created are ethereal and diaphanous. I think of them as existing in a space between the material and the immaterial; or like some sort of alchemical experiment where I attempt to materialize light.

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How do you see your work as challenging gender roles?

My challenge against machismo was much more obvious when I started to work with embroidery which was expressly forbidden to me as a boy. It is also very present in some of my work within the “Pain” series, where I deconstruct pieces of clothing and I cover them with pins. As my work has evolved, I’ve continued with that thought in mind, but in a more broader sense, exploring social constructs of gender and how we constantly deal with them on a day to day basis.

Gabriel Dawe’s next installation “The Density of Light” will be shown at Lot 10 Galerie in Brussels from April 12 to June 9.

Images courtesy of the artist, Kevin Todora (Plexus no. 4, no. 3), Mike Metcalfe (Plexus no. 5), and Carlos Aleman (Plexus no.12).

Lot 10 Galerie

15 rue Lanfray

1050 Brussels, BE


Handsome Coffee Roasters

A sneak peak at the new flagship store in LA’s downtown Arts District

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For the last few months, the corner of 5th and Mateo in the Arts District of downtown Los Angeles has been abuzz with activity as the WoodSmithe team puts the finishing touches on Handsome Coffee Roasters‘ flagship store. Handsome has made a splash in the specialty coffee world since they announced that Tyler Wells and Chris Owens would be teaming up with World Barista Champion Michael Phillips to launch the coffee company of their dreams.

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With the space nearly ready to open its doors, the collaboration between the roasters and the builders—who also happen to be neighbors—seems like a natural one. Also in on the operation is Na Young Ma’s Proof Bakery, whose pastries will be served alongside the coffee.

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We met with Owens to see the space coming together and talk more about their process for sourcing and roasting. “Every roaster is going to color the coffee in some way,” he says. “You bring your style to it. The dynamic, interesting, sweet, fruity coffees that we tend to buy are complimented by the roast style. I want to start thinking of it as a partnership between mother-nature and me as a roaster.” Summing up their simple philosophy, Owens adds, “We source beans responsibly and sustainably. We are going to buy delicious coffees, prepare them well, and try not to mess that up. Really, that’s it, I want to get people excited about coffee.”

Handsome’s Tyler Wells and WoodSmithe’s Nathanael Balon also sat down with us to talk about the new ultimate custom-designed coffee bar.

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The inevitable question, where did the name Handsome come from?

Wells: We went around and around about names for more than two months. Basically our whole aesthetic and philosophy is about way back when, when things were made by hand. Things were quality, a recall to the days of really cool equipment like sewing machines. I was thinking about old bread ovens because I like baking. One morning I was half asleep in bed and it hit me, Handsome Coffee. We are Handsome Coffee Roasters. I texted Chris: “Handsome Coffee Roasters?” He texted back “expletive… yes!” It was perfect. It’s a little bit tongue and cheek, but as the aesthetic builds and as the brand gets bigger, you get it.

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How did you find this location in the Arts District?

Wells: The Arts District was our first choice. Mike was still in Chicago but we had agreed to terms. Chris and I would drive around this neighborhood at least one day a week, but had a hard time finding anything. We met Carl from Creative Spaces. He asked us to describe our dream: Arts District, corner, bow truss, skylights, 3,500 square feet, clearspan, 220 power, three-phase. He called me at 10 o’clock that night and said we were going to see a space at nine in the morning. It was almost fate. When you get to the Arts District you start to understand the community down here. It is not as dense as some of the rest of Los Angeles, but quality-wise it is 100%. Every person down here is doing something awesome.

Nathanael, how does the Handsome Coffee fit into what you do at Woodsmithe?

Balon: I think it made sense on a number of levels. Primarily the local. We are local. This is my neighborhood. This is where I live. This is where I work. I have a built-in high value for new businesses and the types of businesses that are going to take the time to really create a great product and offer it here in my neighborhood. Right off the bat, I started to understand the level of quality coffee they were going to bring into the neighborhood. These guys had language for what they wanted to create. What we do is translate that language into form. We want to work with brands that have great stories and are interested in doing great work. The fact that they are doing it blocks away from our office and shop is just perfect.

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How would you describe the WoodSmithe aesthetic?

Balon: I am always striving for simplicity and honesty in design and an exposure of as many of the elements as possible. Our aesthetic is typically pretty strong, fairly masculine with clean lines and simplistic forms. We purposely put as little as possible in the space to be able to expose as much of the process as we could. You can see green coffee in the back on the pallets in bags, and we put in a huge glass wall to showcase the roasting process. Then, you are staring at a finished product.

How did you design the area for the Probat roaster?

Balon: The Probat roaster is an amazing piece of machinery. Its simplistic, strong, and clean. It’s a beautiful machine. Our goal there was to take more of a museum or art gallery approach. Let this unit stand-alone in a clean space and just be beautiful.

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The wall by the roaster is made from white subways tiles and along the hallway wood ones. What are those made from?

Balon: The wood subway tile is made from one of Handsome’s core materials…aged Maple. We utilized Handsome’s brand imagery through laser etching to overlay a wall-paper like pattern over the wood layout.

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What’s on the menu?

Wells: It reads like this: brewed coffee, espresso, espresso with milk. Three ounces, six ounces, 10 ounces. That’s it. It’s pretty straightforward because if you took a poll of the people who come in here and asked, “What do you think a cappuccino is?” everyone has a different idea. It will strip away the stigma and attitude that often comes with serving great coffee.

Are you going to frown at people who pull out a sugar packet?

Wells: No, but they will have to pull out their own sugar packet because we won’t have any. It’s not because we are anti-sugar. I have one hell of a sweet tooth, but I don’t want sugar in my coffee. This coffee is fantastic and it does not need sugar. We have probably served about six or seven thousand cups of Handsome coffee at this point. Almost invariably people come back and say, “this does not even need sugar.”

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What do you say to the people who might ask, what’s all the fuss?
It’s just a drink.

Wells: That’s actually fine. Crappy coffee is just a drink. Chris’ sentiment is if you want to opt in, then we’ll nerd out with you. But if you just want a drink that is good, that’s fine too, just come in to order a coffee without having to hear about every detail. On its base level it should be user friendly. That is the whole idea of the space. You come in you know exactly where to order. Someone is right there.

To learn more about how Handsome’s flagship store came to be, check out this video of the building process.

Handsome Coffee Roasters

582 Mateo Street

Los Angeles, CA 90013