Hasta La Ideas

Next-generation heritage from the British menswear label

With 257 years of brand heritage behind it, Wolsey’s Fall/Winter 2012 collection remains fully modern in a marriage of robust fabrics and forward-minded design. Moleskin and mohair are everywhere in the coming season, as are old favorites like cable knits and Fair Isle sweaters, in this case updated with…

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Outerwear born from the ocean

Predominately known for their surf gear and board shorts, Hurley—a company founded in 1979 in Costa Mesa—has had a huge hand in defining Southern California’s beach culture. These days it’s Ryan Hurley, son of the brand’s original founder, who acts as the company’s VP of design. In his role, he recently launched Phantom Protect, a line of outerwear inspired by all things water. With firsthand experience, the longtime surfer applied water-resistant technology to a new sub-line. First up is the Phantom Slicker, a hooded jacket that encompasses technical features like reflective detailing, three-layer waterproof, breathable fabric and a brushed tricot interior—built to withstand rough weather conditions. We caught up with Hurley so he could fill us in on why they equate the Phantom with innovation.

How did the idea come about to use the Phantom technology in another product outside of the board short?

Phantom is all about innovation, so when it comes to providing innovative solutions for outerwear, Phantom Protect is a natural extension. Outerwear born from water and inspired by search and rescue is a completely new space. When technology is born from water, as opposed to the land or the trail, it requires a different design approach and problem-solving method.

Were jackets and hoodies the first choice to expand the Phantom line? Can we expect to see any more product offerings down the road?

We have started a dimensional approach to Phantom innovation where it applies. Walkshorts and hybrids are a very natural fit as well for Phantom. Phantom Walkshorts are made from recycled four-way stretch material, water resistant and pocketed with mesh, so they’re completely submersible.

Why was it important for Hurley to patent the Phantom technology? How is it unique from other boardshorts and fabrics?

The industry is at its best when it’s innovating. Phantom innovation changed the game in boardshorts with a new approach (i.e. a second skin). At the time, things were overly embellished, rigid and heavy. We wanted something that was lighter, faster and more flexible—a realistic version of a second skin. Informed by our athletes, we developed a boardshort that was a water repellent, had unparalleled stretch durability and also provided a new approach to its construction. The first Phantom boardshort was lighter, faster and more flexible than anything else out there. Naturally, we want to protect our invention, so we patented it.

How does your experience as a surfer influence the design process?

Growing up surfing, I have a pretty good understanding of the elements and challenges that surfers face. Having experience in the water is helpful when working on athlete-informed innovations as we can relate on certain things. Research and development in the water isn’t the worst thing either.

Was the Phantom Protect line designed specifically for the surfer and outdoor athlete? How does it translate for city dwellers?

Traveling to varying climates 10 months out of the year, our surf athletes are a tremendous source of information when approaching outerwear. Our athletes played a major role in the design of Phantom Protect, so there are some specific things we addressed. However, there are very natural crossovers that happen into streetwear. The approach here is “born from water, inspired by search and rescue, innovation by Phantom.” I believe that truly great or authentic products transcend “demographics.” Whether you’re a city guy, a surf guy, both or neither, if you’re interested in good products, then you’ll appreciate Phantom Protect.

The slicker is really tricked out with a media pocket, reflective detailing, waterproofing and breathable layers. Can you describe the functionality?

The Phantom Protect Slicker is tough. It’s a three-layer waterproof, breathable slicker with a Cire Nylon Ripstop face for durability, a brushed tricot on the interior for comfort and a membrane sandwiched in the middle for waterproofing and breathability. Collectively, these provide the materials function of the Phantom Protect Slicker. Reflective detailing was inspired by search and rescue as a “low visibility” solution.

Warm water wetsuits built with an innovative recycled polyester fabric

Having mastered innovative wool-lined wetsuits designed for near-Arctic conditions, Patagonia unleashed their research and development team and returned to their Southern California roots with the recent release of the R1 warm water wetsuit. By taking everything they knew about building suits for cold water and applying it to warm water, Patagonia was able to swap the merino wool for a specially developed recycled polyester blend to create a wetsuit unlike any other currently existing on the market.

Designed specifically for surfing non-frigid spots like those in California, Hawaii and Australia, the R1 is a thinner, less restrictive and less insulating alternative to its wool-lined big brothers. While the insulation has been cut down, the material construction itself is still top notch. Patagonia enlisted a renowned—and rather secretive—Japanese mill to produce the unique grid pattern using a circular knit machine only found on the island nation. “If you were to take our R1 wetsuits and flip them inside out and compare them to our wool-lined suits, you will notice that we have not taken away any attention to detail in terms of construction, seam-taping, gluing, bonding, and stitching,” said Patagonia wetsuit developer Billy Smith.

After researching bamboo as a possible fabric option, Patagonia found the production process to be too wasteful, as nearly half of the heavy solvents used often end up as environmental waste. So they chose to develop the recycled polyester, a clean, low-energy intensive fabric previously unused in apparel. This recycled polyester makes up 100% of the R1’s exterior while the grid-lined interior is made up of 50% recycled polyester mixed with virgin polyester and spandex.

To aid in the development process Patagonia builds all prototypes on site, from patterning to construction. “Being a quarter-mile from the beach and surrounded by some of the world’s best point breaks and beach breaks has helped tremendously in the hands-on R&D process. As a team, we are able to build prototypes, surf, make adjustments, and do it all over again the next day,” says Smith.

The always forward-thinking Patagonia sees the use of recycled polyester as an advance in wetsuit design and Smith indicates that the development team has been experimenting with several different knit constructions and blending techniques for potential use down the road. That said we’re already looking forward to what Patagonia has in store for 2013.

For more information on the R1 check out this comprehensive video or head to Patagonia online and check out their full range of warm and cold water wetsuits.

The world’s lightest NeoShell jacket from Canada’s tech-driven outerwear maker

Weighing about as much as a bottle of water, Westcomb‘s impressive 15oz Switch LT Hoodie is the latest to be named the world’s lightest NeoShell jacket. While outerwear companies spend every season trying to capture industry attention, Westcomb is one of the few to hit the high mark year after year with cleanly designed, solidly manufactured gear created from start to finish under one roof in Vancouver.

A performance-driven, waterproof shell designed for all conditions, the Switch is made of Polartec Neoshell fabric, a revolutionary lightweight material rated at the market’s highest level of breathability and waterproof capability. With a slightly slimmer fit and articulated joints for ease of motion, the jacket maintains function while tackling the divide between tech and style. Multiple zippered pockets give the jacket just the right amount of portage possibilities while keeping contents completely dry. Westcomb president and lead designer Alan Yiu explains that the design team “started with a core foundation of the best possible materials, and then built the design upward from there, adding only what’s truly necessary for users in the field.”

The Switch LT Hoodie is now available from Westcomb in colorways spanning basic neutrals to adventurous bold hues, for $430. An investment piece, the ripstop nylon jacket will likely last a lifetime, allowing you to easily traverse rainy city streets or off-road trails.

We talk to the Swedish designer about his melancholy mission

When it comes to the genesis of his namesake rainwear brand, Swedish designer Alexander Stutterheim remembers it quite simply. “It was raining really heavily on the way to a big meeting with Saab and I was early so I stopped in a cafe for a coffee,” he explains. “I noticed that there weren’t really many people dressed for the rain at all—a couple of people in mackintoshes, but mainly just flimsy umbrellas or papers over the head,” he continues. Stutterheim had never paid much attention to what people were wearing to protect themselves from the elements, but he suddenly realized that nobody was making anything rain-specific with contemporary fashion in mind.

Adopting the fitting tagline, “Swedish Melancholy at its Driest”, Stutterheim brought his brand to life upon discovering a jacket his grandfather wore fishing off the small island of Arholma in Stockholm’s archipelago. “He was a big man in every way, defying the elements as he journeyed out to sea in all weathers,” he says. Indeed, the jacket was far too big for Stutterheim, himself a fairly tall fellow, and he vowed to buy one when he returned to the city. “I looked everywhere and there was nothing even close to my grandfather’s jacket—everything was Gore Tex and kind of tech-y. I even went to a couple of fishing shops, but theirs were too industrial and had lost the details of my found jacket,” he remembers.

Upon his return, Stutterheim conferred with a few sartorially minded friends only to find they too noticed a lack of gear with country-wear functionality and city-worthy style. He created his own toiles from a tablecloth he waxed for extra stiffness, and called in some favors from a pattern-cutter at V Ave Shoe Repair, well on his way to solving the shortage.

With a refined pattern in hand, Stutterheim set out to source details—no easy feat for a copywriter with no formal fashion training. “It was important to keep the whole process as ‘light’ and fun as possible. Also, to try and keep the heritage of the original garment, fabric and finishing—combining that with as much ‘Swedishness’ as possible,” he says. Stutterheim wanted to keep it local, settling on Sweden’s last remaining factory producing garments on a large scale, located in Borås, the country’s fashion center.

Working out of his flat, Stutterheim sold out of the initial run of 250 black jackets, each accompanied by a hand-typed note sealed in a pocket for the new owner to find. Now, coats come numbered and labeled with the signature of the seamstress who created that particular one.

“While, yes, it is more expensive, I can keep an eye on every stage of the process,” says Stutterheim. “Eventually I decided to give it my name rather than some brand name. But to me melancholy is deeply connected with ‘Swedishness’ and how we look at things. A rainy day is a wasted day so I wanted to see if I could change people’s attitude to the weather.”

Since the initial desire to create something durable and fashion-conscious at the same time, Stutterheim has mastered a progressive cut with high arm openings and a boxy, narrow fit. The sophisticated matte-finish oilskin is lined for breathability and branded (literally) with a small Sutterheim logo at the hem. Seams are not vulcanized, but sewed by hand before being hand-taped for waterproofing.

Having stumbled upon a few dozen pairs of deadstock classic rubber boots from the Swedish army, Stutterheim is currently sourcing potential manufacturers to release a new run. A pair of new pieces is also in the works—a Swedish mackintosh for men called the Arvid, and the Lydia, a women’s rain cape—named for two lovers who meet in the rain in the classic Swedish novel, “The Serious Game”.

Stutterheim sells online from the brand’s e-shop.