Studio Visit: Eskayel

Shanan Campanaro reflects on her “Poolside” collection and the art of designing patterns
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Using little more than Muji gel ink pens Shanan Campanaro creates highly detailed drawings then degrades them with a dash of water to reveal unexpected patterns for her line of wallpaper, pillows and scarves, Eskayel. Her simple set of tools provides the foundation for an extensive process that involves painting and then digital manipulating her analog work. We recently caught up with the self-proclaimed neat freak at her Williamsburg studio to learn more about her latest collection, and the surprising way in which she creates such whimsically structured motifs.

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Campanaro starts by drawing, usually working small. She uses the water-soluble Muji pens (or sometimes Higgins inks) to paint primarily pictures of animals, and then distorts the lines by flicking water onto the paper to make the ink bleed. “I like to work on a couple pieces of paper on top of each other so that it sinks through, and then I’ll draw the same thing a couple of times,” she explains. While she prefers pens over brushes for cleaner lines, she then counteracts that precision with a loose application of water. Campanaro demonstrated her method for us on a painting of a rooster she is doing for an upcoming exhibition called “Rare Birds”. Although “everything comes from a painting”, at the end of the day “everything has to be done on the computer”.

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While she says she always paints stuff “not for wallpaper”, this medium is often at the back of her mind. While painting, Campanaro tends to notice an element that might look good as wallpaper so she’ll stop and photograph the work at that point because, she explains, “for the painting to have more contrast and depth and look good as a painting, you kind of have to ruin the part that was good as wallpaper.”

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The creation of the pattern marks the beginning of the digital aspect of the process. After scanning in a photograph of her painting, she begins to inspect it in Photoshop, looking for interesting areas where the ink has bled. This begins a lengthy trial-and-error process where Campanaro zooms in on and crops a fraction of the painting, copies it, multiplies it and decides if it makes a harmonious pattern. As we saw on our visit, this part of the operation relies heavily on Campanaro’s trained artistic eye and experience as a designer.

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The Central St. Martins grad is mostly inspired by travel, and she enjoys bohemian settings in places like Indonesia, Mexico or Capri. These destinations tend to show up as the themes for her collections, although her latest, “Poolside“, draws from time spent back home at her parents’ house in San Diego. The collection includes eight different patterns, and spans bold geometric designs in “Solitaire” to the abstract motif of “Splash”.

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Campanaro—who’s also an unexpected sneaker freak—likes working in the commercial realm of art. After receiving her degree in fine art, she began looking for jobs at streetwear labels and ended up making T-shirts in London with two friends from school. This actually marked the beginning of Eskayel, whose name is a phonetic combination of their initials, S, K and L. The company is now a solo act with a different purpose, but Campanaro still collaborates frequently, and she co-founded the charitable arts organization FOOLSGOLD with her friend Maria Kozak, where many of her wildlife paintings end up on display.

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The industrious designer never stops thinking of ways to expand her talents. Whether experimenting with different types of paper, creating custom textiles for furniture upholstery or adding new products to her shop—last year she threw woven baskets into the mix of wares comprising her online shop—Campanaro continues to successfully combine fine art with commercial sensibility. Keep an eye out for her at the Javits Center during the upcoming ICFF in NYC, and for her next collection, “Akimbo”, debuting July 2012.

Images by Karen Day. See more in the slideshow below.


Im Blanky by Studio NMinusOne and Rodolphe el-Khoury

This blanket is embroidered with tiny sensors so it can watch you sleeping.

Im Blanky by Studio NMinusOne and Rodolphe el-Khoury

Called Im Blanky, it maps the positions of 104 tilt sensors arranged in hexagons across its surface, which communicate changes in resistance to a controller that’s stitched to the back of the blanket, which in turn sends the data wirelessly to a computer that digitally recreates the shape of the whole surface (see movie above).

Im Blanky by Studio NMinusOne and Rodolphe el-Khoury

It was developed in the RAD laboratory at the University of Toronto by Studio NMinusOne and Rodolphe el-Khoury, who say that possible applications could include monitoring those with sleep disorders or watching the vital signs of elderly patients who aren’t being cared for in hospitals.

Im Blanky by Studio NMinusOne and Rodolphe el-Khoury

As part of a future where more and more devices are wirelessly connected, it could automatically turn down your central heating or open a window to maintain comfortable sleeping conditions.

Im Blanky by Studio NMinusOne and Rodolphe el-Khoury

Embroidered in swirling floral patterns on green taffeta, the blanket was commissioned by WORKShop Toronto for an exhibition called Stitches that asked participants to marry traditional embroidery and stitching with new technologies.

Im Blanky by Studio NMinusOne and Rodolphe el-Khoury

Read more about how information technology is creeping into everyday objects, turning them into devices and apps that monitor our behaviour and communicate with each other, in our special report for Intel here.

Im Blanky by Studio NMinusOne and Rodolphe el-Khoury

Here’s some more information from Studio NMinusOne and Rodolphe el-Khoury:


IM BLANKY is a blanket with an IP address. The basic v. 1.0 is self-modeling, which means that it is wirelessly linked to a digital model that registers and represents its changing state in real time. The built-in capacity to situate and represent itself in space and time points to a most primitive and essential form of cognition, the sense of one’s own body. This ability constitutes a foundation for multiple additional functionalities that would be enabled with the use of other sensing devices in future generations of IM BLANKY.

Soft tilt sensors arrayed in a hexagrid pattern and sewn into the fabric of the blanket enable the digital self-modeling. The data they generate—variation in current resistance—establishes the vectors from which the shape of the entire blanket is computationally extrapolated.

The electronic components and their circuits constitute figurative patterns. The organization of flows and connections here reproduces the logic of nature in generating intricate and hierarchical forms: stems, flowers and petals are the decorative by-product as much as the motivated form of a functional circuit.

IM BLANKY was commissioned by WORKShop Toronto for “Stitches,” an exhibition that invited artists and designers to project traditional embroidery and stitching practices into the 21st century. IM BLANKY aligns ornamental craft with digital electronics and computation to invest the intelligence and knowledge built into traditional materials and forms with a renewed purpose and relevance in increasingly networked environments.

Im Blanky by Studio NMinusOne and Rodolphe el-Khoury

(soft) Hardware:

The blanket measures 7’7” x 4’2” and comprises 104 tilt sensors. They are arrayed in a hexa-grid formation and distributed uniformly over its entire field. The flower-like sensors consist of 6 conductive petal-like pads, radiating from a conductive tassel attached to a powered double-arabesque of conductive wire. The resistance in the current flowing through petal and tassel varies depending on which petal is in contact with the tassel (The R value thus indexes the direction of the tassel). The flowers are arranged in 16 clusters and their stems connected to computational node (Multiplexer). The nodes communicate the fluctuation in current resistance recorded at each flower to a microcontroller stitched to the back of the blanket (Arduino Lillypad). The data is communicated wirelessly to a computer (XBee Shield)

Im Blanky by Studio NMinusOne and Rodolphe el-Khoury

Software:

Each flower occupies a hexagonal cell, surrounded by six neighbors. The computation script extrapolates directional vectors from current resistance data and models a slope based on the orientation of that of that cell in relation to that of its immediate 6 neighbors. The algorithm generates a field of peaks and valleys that is fine-tuned into a smooth polygonal mesh by negotiating local conditions at each cluster within the behavior parameters of the overall figure (Processing).

The research for this project was conducted at RAD, a laboratory of embedded and situated technology at the Daniels Faculty, University of Toronto

Credits:

Studio NMinusOne in collaboration with Rodolphe el-Khoury
Principals in Charge at Studio NMinusOne: Christos Marcopoulos and Carol Moukheiber
Fabrication Team: Valentina Mele, Sebastian Savone, Yie Ping See
Programming: Jonah Ross Marrs, Samar Sabie, Dina Sabie

Arab Seasons by Bokja

Arab Seasons by Bokja

Lebanese design duo Bokja have created embroidered maps of the Arab world that present a tapestry of changing politics and traditions.

Arab Seasons by Bokja

The first of the two embroideries is entitled Arab Fall,while the second is named Arab Spring and shares its name with the wave of demonstrations and protests that began in 2010.

Arab Seasons by Bokja

On the Arab Fall map, the sea is made from pairs of imported jeans to demonstrate how the rise of imported cultures has led to the replacement of native traditions.

Arab Seasons by Bokja

The Arab Spring map is woven onto the centre of an old carpet, which is intended to represent the worn-out but cherished values of the Arab countries.

Arab Seasons by Bokja

Both tapestries also contain a range of symbolic imagery, which includes a genie eating fast food and a flying elephant.

Arab Seasons by Bokja

Hoda Baroudi and Maria Hibri of Bokja often use vintage Middle Eastern fabrics in their work. See a couple more of their projects here.

Arab Seasons by Bokja

Here’s a few more words from the designers:


Bokja’s map of the “Arab Fall” interweaves imported jeans as a backdrop for the sad reality of an Arab world where imported fads and fast foods have replaced timeless traditions and native delicacies.

The flying elephant serves as a reminder of all the inane slogans that have been forced upon generations of an incredulous citizenry across the region.

It is this awakening that delineates Bokja’s Arab Spring map.

The background is an old valuable carpet (representing our core values) that should be the basis of any new start.

The carpet is in a dilapidated state, like many of our discarded ideals and is in need of resurrection.

The mood is that of optimism and rejuvenation.

The symbols are many, among them a woman riding a horse on the road to a new and unknown world.

Designed in Hackney: Omi pendant Lightsby Naomi Paul

Omi pendant Lights by Naomi Paul

Designed in Hackney: these crochet pendant lamps by Dalston designer Naomi Paul are made of mercerised cotton and surplus silk from the fashion industry.

Omi pendant Lights by Naomi Paul

Called Glück, Sonne and Hanna, the three shapes in the Omi collection are hand-made in limited editions of each colourway.

Omi pendant Lights by Naomi Paul

They’re shown here illuminated by Plumen low-energy designer lightbulbs, which were featured in the first week of our Designed in Hackney initiative.

Omi pendant Lights by Naomi Paul

Paul’s work combines recycled, upcycled, organic, industry waste and British luxury materials to form patterns by exploring the structure of textiles.

Omi pendant Lights by Naomi Paul

She studied graphic design at Central Saint Martins then constructed textile design at Chelsea College of Art and Design, graduating in 2006.

Omi pendant Lights by Naomi Paul

Her studio is on Ridley Road in Dalston.

Key:

Blue = designers
Red = architects
Yellow = brands

See a larger version of this map

Designed in Hackney is a Dezeen initiative to showcase world-class architecture and design created in the borough, which is one of the five host boroughs for the London 2012 Olympic Games as well as being home to Dezeen’s offices. We’ll publish buildings, interiors and objects that have been designed in Hackney each day until the games this summer.

More information and details of how to get involved can be found at www.designedinhackney.com.

Dezeen Screen: golden spider-silk cape

Dezeen Screen: Golden spider-silk cape

Dezeen Screen: in this movie from the V&A museum in London, Simon Peers and Nicholas Godley talk about the golden cape they made by harvesting silk from over a million wild spiders in Madagascar. Watch the movie »

Titania Inglis Fall/Winter 2012

Supple leather and Japanese plaids comprise the sleekly edgy collection from this year’s Ecco Domani winner for Sustainable Design
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The 2012 winner of the Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation’s coveted award in Sustainable Design, Brooklyn-based fashion designer Titania Inglis uses smartly sourced fabrics as the foundation for her thoughtful collections. Half Chinese, half Scottish, Inglis grew up in upstate New York before studying at the Design Academy Eindhoven—a school known for teaching innovation through sustainable materials—and then at NYC’s Fashion Institute of Technology. Inglis explains, “As I see it, designing sustainably means trying to make those choices with the minimum possible impact on the environment and the maximum possible benefit to society.”

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Inglis’ impeccable craftsmanship is the upshot of both extensive training and innate perfectionism. “In the end the collection was seamless,” says her Fall/Winter 2012 collection stylist, Christian Stroble. “I was very impressed with her dedication and fine eye for detail. I loved the blend of ’90s grunge with an updated minimal edge.”

In a collection that calls to mind episodes of “My So Called Life,” plaid skirts made from a recycled Japanese cotton and linen blend and vegetable-tanned leather jackets offered up a sophisticated punk aesthetic, which were accented by knee-high combat boots and jewelry designer Bliss Lau‘s beautifully constructed shoulder holsters and belts.

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We checked in with the designer after her runway show at Eyebeam Art + Technology Center in NYC last week.

What are some of the challenges involved in using sustainable textiles?

The biggest challenge is finding high-quality textiles that are sustainably manufactured. I’ve scoured the New York garment district and traveled to Tokyo and London in search of the most beautiful, low-impact materials, and when I find something I like, I’ll base an entire collection around it. This season, the collection came from the plaid I used, which is a recycled cotton and linen blend from Japan with a tiny herringbone texture, and the leather, which is a vegetable-tanned leather from France. I’ve already squirreled away my key fabrics for Spring 2013, but those are still top secret!

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How would you describe your approach to design?

I like to approach sustainable design as a challenge rather than an obstacle, so my process each season starts with an assignment I give myself. For Fall/Winter 2012, I thought back to my high school years in the ’90s, when I was the only girl at my school who refused to wear a plaid flannel shirt, and combined that era’s slouchy nonchalance with structures inspired by medieval armor to create a clean, tough, sophisticated evolution of the grunge look.

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What attracted you to Bliss Lau’s work?

It was the utterly innovative nature of Bliss’ work that attracted me, in combination with her dark, elegant aesthetic and minute attention to detail. It’s very hard to design something entirely new, and yet she’s created a body of work so unique and so incredibly beautiful that the vocabulary doesn’t yet exist to describe it—her body pieces fall somewhere between clothing and jewelry, and wearing them is a transformative experience.

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What kind of person do you see wearing your clothes?

I like that you said “person”; I definitely see my clothes as androgynous, and a lot of guys have been asking for a men’s version of the plaid button-down in the new collection. I’d love to add menswear to my line once I have the resources to expand a bit.

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The woman who wears Titania Inglis clothes is elegant, independent-minded, and practical; she chooses them for the interesting design lines, balanced proportions, and subtle details, and because they’re versatile and easy to look sharp in. When my clothes are sexy, it’s with a tough edge; and the same goes for their wearer.

Photos by Ruediger Glatz


Rachel Craven Textiles at Heath Ceramics

Hand-finished linens in geometric stylings from an LA artisan
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Textile designer Rachel Craven works out of her home in the Los Angeles suburb of Angelino Heights, a historic neighborhood that provides the perfect setting for creating her Southwestern-style, handmade printed pillows, tablecloths and linens.

Craven, who cites influences from Agnes Martin to Marimekko, grew up in New York with parents who were both painters. After studying at The School of Visual Arts and working as a fashion stylist, she moved to LA to transition back to visual art.

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Now, her hand-block-printed Italian linens are being sold at the Heath Los Angeles Studio & Showroom. The geometric “Circles, Arrows and Dots” collection provides a crisp backdrop for Heath’s simple mid-century pottery.

“My Circles, Arrows and Dots collection marries my attraction to bright geometric pattern with my love for the tactile qualities of linen-combined I find the effect vibrant, comforting and subtly seductive,” says Craven. Heath Gallery Director Adam Silverman was thrilled to bring in the designer’s textiles along the classic ceramics, and “highlight a local artist whose design-focused textiles complement Heath’s dinnerware at the table.”

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Craven’s textiles are also available at deKor in Echo Park and she co-organizes the Echo Park Craft Fair with Beatrice Valenzuela, a Los Angeles artist collective, which will be making an appearance Beautiful Dreamers in Brooklyn, New York later this month.

Heath Ceramics

7525 Beverly Blvd


Los Angeles, CA 90036


Dezeen Screen: Nina Levett

Ornaments and patterns by Nina Levett

Austrian designer Nina Levett mixes imagery from punk and pop culture into her designs for textiles, wallpaper and ceramics. Watch the movies »

Ornaments and patterns by Nina Levett

Her work includes wallpaper that tells the story of a prostitute who has married a client and had a child but finds herself losing her identity, leather seating that’s been hand printed and embossed with images of sperm and cutlery engraved with images taken from the internet.

Ornaments and patterns by Nina Levett

“Hand-drawings, depending on the project, are often the last part of my work process,” says Levett.

Ornaments and patterns by Nina Levett

“I feel that they are the most important and direct way to find out what’s on a mind, and I find this process to be very intuitive. It’s like the ideas flow out of my pen or brush and I just have to help it happen.”

We’ve published a series of movies Levett made about her work on Dezeen Screen, in which she engraves metal cutlery, colour-corrects wallpaper and makes a silk screen. Watch them here or below.

Ornaments and patterns by Nina Levett

Nina Levett’s work is in the permanent collection of the Museum of Applied Arts in Vienna and the Alessi museum in Milan.

Ornaments and patterns by Nina Levett

See our special feature on wallpaper here and all our stories about textiles here.

Ornaments and patterns by Nina Levett

Above: engraving metal. Watch this movie on Dezeen Screen »

Above: colour correcting wallpaper. Watch this movie on Dezeen Screen »

Above: making a silk screen. Watch this movie on Dezeen Screen »

Atlantish

Contemporary crisis and mythical inspiration in a Greek design collection

by Ikechukwu Onyewuenyi

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When one thinks of Atlantis, a phantasm of decadence and splendor floods the senses, harkening a city at the height of its glory. For the “Atlantish: quite like Atlantis” collection, design collective Greece Is For Lovers (GIFL) turned to the present to communicate the allegorical allure of the past through modest design classics synonymous to Grecian culture. GIFL designer Thanos Karampatos says he wanted to “play with the idea of how the current and the antique are often blurred.” The ubiquitous and somewhat nondescript styrofoam water cooler is peppered throughout fishing docks and port cities across Greece, while disposable paper cloth adorns the tables of provincial tavernas all over Greece. Yet with Greece on the brink of a financial crisis, these objects possess a nostalgia quite like Atlantis, symbolic of a bygone era of innocence.

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In that vein, as an ode to the historical vestiges of Atlantis, a plastic water cooler was sculpted into a luxe red earthen clay pot while trite tablecloths were turned into precious silk twill scarves emblematic of the lost city. The end result straddles the line of calculated irony and metaphoric reverence, with neither evoking a retrogressive aesthetic. At the same time, utility and integrity are not lost in the beautifying process. “Our products always have a utilitarian aspect but we insist on giving priority to emotive qualities and metaphors,” reflected Karampatos. Indeed, both recreations are sensitive to the distinction of Atlantis, but in their functionality do not capitulate in addressing the present. Karampatos feels this mirrors his current country’s plight in that Greece “obsess over the glory of the past rather than firmly focusing on the problematic present and future to come.”

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“Atlantish: quite like Atlantis” had a recent unveiling at the 2011 Tent London design trade show and the metaphorical significance of the collection resonated among fair-goers. Despite standing as one of their more opinionated pieces of work, Karampatos comments that “this is by no means a campaign for Greece. Of course the Greek crisis has been an inspiration factor around this in a symbolic way of how Greek people interpret the chasm between the glorious past and the bleak present.” In keeping with the ephemeral beauty of Atlantis, the limited series of just seven ceramic decanters sell for €350. The scarves, on the other hand, will be a permanent part of the GIFL product range and will be available soon online.


Alchemy by Cristian Zuzunaga at The Temporium

Cristian Zuzunaga at The Temporium

The Temporium: you can get 15% off Cristian Zuzunaga‘s new series of digitally printed scarves at our Christmas shop The Temporium, open until Christmas Eve in London. 

Alchemy by Cristian Zuzunaga at The Temporium

His Alchemy collection features pixellated patterns as though zooming right in on a digital map of the city.

Alchemy by Cristian Zuzunaga at The Temporium

They’re made of wool and modal in Italy.

Alchemy by Cristian Zuzunaga at The Temporium

Here are some more details from Zuzunaga:


Alchemy is an ancient tradition whose philosophy underpins much of our work here at Zuzunaga. While in popular culture it is best know for turning metal into gold or creating an ‘elixir of life’, for us, alchemy is inherently about transformation.

Alchemy by Cristian Zuzunaga at The Temporium

Our Alchemy collection is about this process of transformation and follows its methodology. Each design starts from a photograph we have taken of the urban environment. We use this analog image and transform it into a digital one. This enables us to manipulate it and create designs that are then applied to products using different materials and printing techniques.

Alchemy by Cristian Zuzunaga at The Temporium

Alchemy transforms the real into the digital and back again. It transforms the elements and the landscape around us and creates products that enable us to appropriate our environment. It transforms our perceptions of reality and makes the invisible tangible.

The Temporium 2011

Dezeen presents The Temporium

65 Monmouth Street
Seven Dials, Covent Garden
London WC2H 9DG

Map

Telephone:
020 7503 7319

Dates:
1-24 December 2011

Opening times:
Monday – Saturday: 11:00 – 19:00
Late-night shopping Thursday until 20:00
Sunday: 12:00 – 17:00

More info: www.thetemporium.com