Hasta La Ideas

Wooden clothes feature in Icelandic fashion designer Sruli Recht’s Autumn Winter 2013 menswear collection.

Layers of walnut wood were divided into triangles then mounted on a textile base to create a pliable material that forms the geometric shapes of the garments.

Most of the items in Sruli Recht’s collection are constructed from a single pattern and piece of material, with sweaters woven from complete unravelled skeins of wool and cotton blend.

The charred colour scheme of black and grey is broken only by a yellow ochre suit and a matching pair of suede shoes that have the patterns of the wooden items repeated on their soles.

Eiderdown collected from abandoned nests on the beaches in the Westfjörds of Iceland, metal mesh and reindeer skin are all included in the material palette.

Recht also created a ring from skin surgically removed from his own belly for the collection – see it here.

Other items of jewellery in the collection combine black and white acrylic resin with fool’s gold and peacock ore specimens, fused in a process akin to fossilisation and hand sculpted by jewellery artist Jade Mellor.

The wooden textiles were created with German designer Elisa Strozyk, whose wooden carpet project we featured a while ago.

Small oxidised metal pins for fastening collars and chunky wooden boots also feature in the collection, which was presented at the Carousel de Louvre during Paris Men’s Fashion Week last week (above).

Recht works from his Reykjavik studio to create garments and accessories from unconventional materials, and his previous collections have included stillborn lamb leather and silk extracted from a spider’s gland implanted in a goat.

We posted stories about a wooden t-shirt prototype and carnival costumes made from folded paper last year.

Photography is by Marinó Thorlacius.

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Read on for more information from Sruli Recht:

Story

This is the fifth complete menswear line from Sruli Recht. “This collection is completely burned.” – Sruli Recht, January, 2013. The collection in three words – facetted, charred, smoking.

The Concentrated collection for Autumn and Winter 2013/14 consists of 28 total looks – from heavy coats, fur jackets, tailored suits, cardigans, to trousers, shorts and underwear, pea-coats, shirts, sweaters and jerseys, complimented by boots, loafers, trainers, bags, raincoats, gloves, cufflinks and fossilized resin jewellery – 60 styles, approximately 150 with material variations.

All garments and product samples are produced in-house and in the EU, unless otherwise stated. The majority of the garments/ items are constructed from a single pattern piece and one piece of material, utilising an origami hybrid of tailoring, draping and digital modification.

This season employs a global selection of waxed cottons, leathers, wool and felts, silks, and timber, complimented by Icelandic reindeer and horse skin. A permanent creasing system has been developed for the mechanised pleat structures of the garments. Our buttons this season are in the form of a facetted shield, made from oxidised metal alloy rods, designed, moulded and drop-cast in the studio.

Materials

Featured sourced materials: Japanese denim and heavy satin, goat skin, walnut wood, cashmere rib, metal mesh, Austrian felt, Scottish waxed cotton, viscose jersey, wool and modal jersey, silk and cupro shirting, shearling, pixelated rabbit fur, and Italian wool suiting.

Anthropodermic Leather

In a documented one-time surgery-performance, a plastic surgeon removed a 110mm x 10mm strip of skin from the abdomen of Sruli Recht. The subcutaneous tissue and epidermis was then scraped from the dermis, which is stripped of fat by hand and blade, before being salted, and tanned with an Alum solution. The resulting leather from the dermis was prepared for use in the ring, Forget Me Knot.

The post Concentrated
by Sruli Recht appeared first on Dezeen.

Icelandic fashion designer Sruli Recht has used translucent lambskin, stripy skunk fur, an ancient meteorite and fabric that can withstand mortar attacks in his latest menswear collection (+ slideshow).

The spring/summer 2013 collection, called Circumsolar, was unveiled in Paris on the last day of June.

Translucent leather has been used to make a vest, shoes and passport holder.

Leather made from horses and ostriches has been used to make two large penis forms, called Shaft and Sheath.

Some of the linings and undergarments are made from a high-tech paraffin cooling knit, which rapidly cools the skin on contact.

Ballistic aramid, a material used in body armour to protect against bomb and knife attacks, has been used to make a brimless hat.

The Epoch ring is made from the Muonionalusta meteorite, which fell into the Arctic Circle about one million years ago. The striped marks on the ring are a result of the shock impact with earth.

A silk and cashmere scarf has been digitally printed with an image of the sun’s solar wind by artist B. Börkur Éiriksson and produced by couture fabric house Ratti.

Skunk fur has been used to make a bomber jacket with a white stripe running down the arms.

Another bomber jacket is made from dark green lamb’s leather, which has been fused with aluminium in the top layers of the epidermis.

The majority of the clothes are constructed from a single pattern piece and one piece of material.

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Photographs are by Marinó Thorlacius.

Here’s some more information from the designer:

“This collection is drawn by the dust of a meteor’s tail in orbital decay, illuminated by our sun.” – Sruli Recht, June, 2012.

The collection in three words – Solar, Polarising, Circular.

The Circumsolar collection for Spring and 2013 consists of 24 total looks – from light coats, tailored jackets and cardigans, to trousers, shorts and leggings, complemented by hats, boots, shoes, bags, gloves, sunglasses and jewellery – 55 styles, approximately 105 items with material variations.

The majority of the garments/ items are constructed from a single pattern piece and one piece of material, where the width of the material allows. In the case of the shirts, the cuff and placket come from the same piece of fabric as the sleeve, which is also part of the body and collar. Our shoes are hand-lasted in-house and completely hand-sewn.

This season employs a global selection of waxed cottons, leathers and silks, and timber, complemented by Icelandic reindeer and horse skin. Our buttons this season, an Obol, are made from oxidized metal alloy rods, designed, moulded and drop-cast in the studio.

Everything in the collection is made in Iceland.

MATERIALS

Featured sourced materials: meteorite, translucent leather, black gold, ballistic aramid, high-tech paraffin cooling linings, skunk fur, aluminium-infused lamb skin and bamboo suiting.

Transparent Leather. Made from the purest lambs – for if you remove the sole of an animal before its passing, the skin becomes transparent.

Muonionalusta Meteorite. Considered the oldest meteorite to have impacted the earth, the Muonionalusta Meteorite has passed through four Ice-ages, having fallen into the Arctic Circle about 1 million years ago.

Solar Burned Black Gold. For if you take the gold from the teeth of the passed during the daylight hours, it will become black when reworked.

High-Tech Paraffin Cooling Knit. Used in military and medical applications, this material rapidly cools the skin on contact. This season we have used it for both linings and undergarments.

Ballistic Aramid. Known for its employment in military ballistic protection, aramid fibres are used in layers to stop mortar and knife attacks.

Skunk. Historically referred to as Alaskan Sable, the skunk’s fur is a shimmering black with a white V running from head to tail. This fur consists of two layers, a soft inner fur (25-40mm long), and longer guard hairs (35-80mm long) which are of a coarser texture than the under fur.

Lamb-coated Aluminium. Before departing, the lamb is placed partly submerged in a tank, where through scientific application the aluminium, like adamantium, is fused between the first few layers of the epidermis.

Bamboo Suiting. Traditionally Bamboo was used to make hats and shoes in Japan and China. Moso bamboo has many advantages as a raw material for textiles over materials such as cotton. The plants can reach up to 35 metres tall and are the fastest growing woody plants on earth. The high growth rate of bamboo and the fact that it can grow in such diverse climates makes the bamboo plant a sustainable and versatile resource.

GARMENTS

Feature Garments: Limited items from the new collection of Sruli Recht for Spring and Summer 2013, Circumsolar.
*Some items made to order only

Show Piece One – Carapace*

SR549 – Translucent Leather Vest – Made from the purest lambs – for if you remove the sole of an animal before its passing, the skin becomes transparent.

SR550 – Translucent Five-Dimensional Lamb Leather Parchment Shoes
To be placed on at birth and again at death, for in dimension 5, they are the parenthesis of this twisted mass, I.

Show Piece Three – Epoch*

SR540b – Large Acid-Etched Ring from the Muonionalusta Meteorite.
By the hands of one blacksmith, acid, and the coincidence of gravity’s pull on a passing octahedrite, comes the ring EPOCH, sheared and formed from the Muonionalusta Meteorite. Considered the oldest meteorite to have impacted the earth, the Muonionalusta Meteorite has passed through four Ice-ages, having fallen into the Arctic Circle about one million years ago. The linear striations are naturally occurring as a result of the heavy shock impact with the planet.

Show Piece Four* – Supermassive

SR527a – Skunk Fur High Collar Bomber

Feature Piece One – In Solar Wind

SR534 – Digital-Print Silk and Cashmere Scarf.
2.5m long Skarf [70% WS 30% SE], with digital print of our Sun’s solar wind, by artist B. Börkur Éiriksson, produced by couture fabric house Ratti.

Feature Piece Two – From Kinetic Energy

SR523 – Hand Knitted Cowl Sweater [100% Organic CO].

Feature Piece Three – Supermassive

SR527c – Dark Green High Collar Bomber from Aluminium-infused Lambskin.

Feature Piece Four – May Your Duty Dance With Death

SR520c – Ballistic-Proof Brimless Hat [100% WV 100% Kevlar].

Feature Non-Product: Limited items from the new collection of Sruli Recht for Spring and Summer 2013, Circumsolar.
*some items made to order only

Feature Product One – Shaft*

SR528a – Blood-Red Layered Penis Form, Icelandic Horse Leather

Feature Product Two – Sheath*

SR503a – Black Leather Ribbed Prophylactic, Ostrich Leather

Feature Product Three – White Albedo*

SR507 – Drift-White Rimless Cherry Wood Frames – with clear or tinted lenses.

Feature Product Four – The Great Transition*

SR531a – Single piece translucent leather passport holder, with sections for travel documents, 4 sim cards, pen and paper currency.

Feature Product Four – From Decaying Orbit

SR542b – Twisted bracelet of blackened gold, shaped to the path the earth takes around our sun, with one polished edge.

June 30, 2012, 5 30 pm. This season brought our first officially scheduled Paris runway presentation and performance. Featuring the choreography and performance of artist Tony Orrico. Original score from acclaimed composer Nico Muhly. Presented as runway and performance within the epic spaces of Palais Brongniart, Paris.

The Sruli Recht studio is a cross-discipline practice caught somewhere between product design, tailoring and shoe making. Based in Reykjavík, the studio rose to notoriety as it began in 2008 to produce one “non-product” every month from umbrellas to bulletproof scarves, tables, to belts and boots, and incorporating such materials as concrete, diamonds, skin and wool. The studio produces two seasonal menswear lines per year.

Movie credits:

SRULI RECHT S/S 2013

Circumsolar
and fragments of dying light
June 30, 2012
Featuring the choreography and performance of artist Tony Orrico.
Original score from acclaimed composer Nico Muhly.
Presented as runway and performance within the epic spaces of Palais Brongniart, Paris.

The post Circumsolar
by Sruli Recht appeared first on Dezeen.

More Icelandic fashion design: this time a series of concrete belt buckles by Sruli Recht of Reykjavík. (more…)

Reykjavik designer Sruli Recht has designed a ring where three interchangeable rough diamonds can be screwed into it. (more…)