Liza Rietz

A Portland designer applies sculptural origami to women’s clothing

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A first look at Liza Rietz designs does not immediately confirm if they’re clothes or sculptures. Even on the hanger, layers of silk, wool and linen flow out in broad planes, making soft points in the delicate fabric. On a model, the clothes seem to float above and around the body. “I’ve always been fascinated by the sculptural qualities of fabric,” Rietz told CH in an interview at her studio. “I suppose that’s why they look like origami. That’s the art of manipulating two dimensions into three dimensions.”

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Despite her current career path, Rietz never studied design. Instead, the Washington native graduated with a degree in sociology and anthropology from Portland’s Lewis & Clark College in 2000. “Maybe it’s like learning how to paint,” she said. “If you get formal training, it’s easy to get stuck in a niche.” She bartended and waited tables before falling in with Holly Stalder and her vaunted former store Seaplane, which was a launchpad for many of Portland’s current crop of young clothing designers. “I brought in some skirts and a woman from Adidas bought one,” Rietz said. “It was great having that support in learning how to go from D.I.Y. to making something store-quality—to make designs that are applicable to a range of body types, in size runs that real women can wear.”

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Rietz cites travel as a source of inspiration. A trip to China and Thailand in 2009 resulted in an architecture-inspired collection full of fins and batwing sleeves. Cross-pollination also seems to be a likely wellspring of ideas; she recently returned from Berlin, where in addition to showing at Berlin Fashion Week, she also toured as part of the Portland band Tu Fawning.

Small orders of Rietz’s designs can be found in places as far-flung as London and Washington, D.C. However, the best way to purchase her work would be at her Portland studio or on her Etsy page.


Woodblock Chocolate

Portland’s micro-chocolatiers with a knack for DIY innovation

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A few years ago in the DIY paradise of Portland, Oregon, Jessica and Charley Wheelock began cultivating an idea. If home brewers and coffee roasters were dotting the national food scene with successful independent businesses, why were there so few independent artisanal chocolate makers? The two cobbled together repurposed coffee and grain equipment together with information culled from the Internet, starting Woodblock Chocolate a little over a year ago.

“Even Theo and Scharffen Berger are massive compared to what we’re doing,” said Charley on a recent sunny afternoon in his kitchen in south Portland. In the background, their melangeur—originally a grain grinder from India—whirs gently as it conches a fresh batch. A coffee roaster ticking on a sideboard releases the warm smell of home-roasted cacao beans. “There are maybe 20 artisanal chocolate shops in the country at our level,” added Jessica.

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Woodblock Chocolate currently operates out of the Wheelocks’ home. Although they work around the clock to produce chocolate at a rate of two kilos every 72 hours, demand has proven so strong that they’re currently in negotiations to expand their operations only a year after opening. “Our children beg us not to talk about chocolate,” laughed Jessica. “But they’re pretty psyched about our work.”

The couple’s success relies on three things: Charley’s handiness with machinery (he’s currently working on a homemade winnower prototype in the garage, designed to quickly husk the roasted beans), their shared background in design and, of course, their chocolate. The bars are denoted by percentage of cocoa and where the beans were grown. The salted 70% La Red D.R., from the Dominican Republic is smokier and tangier than the Mantuano, but both are just barely sweet, with a hint of fleur de sel.

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Charley brought in a tray of just-roasted beans and broke one open. The dark nibs taste so richly and strongly of chocolate that it’s hard to imagine they can need any further embellishment. “Sugar and these nibs, that’s all that’s in there,” Jessica said. If direct-sourcing coffee beans hasn’t yet changed the world, perhaps it’s chocolate’s turn to give it a try.

Woodblock Chocolate can be found in-store at Olympic Provisions, Cacao, and online at The Meadow.

Also on Cool Hunting: The Mast Brothers


Seven Independent Coffee Roasters

North American roasters get crafty with South American and African beans
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Thanks coffee culture spreading far and wide—from Portland’s Stumptown to Chicago’s Intelligentsia—the appeal of independent micro-roasters over corporate coffee houses is starting to catch on not just among connoisseurs but mainstream America as well. To survey the latest, we’ve dedicated our morning—and afternoon and evening—cups of coffee to finding the best artisinal purveyors in the States. Below is a selection of seven cups of black gold that will not only keep you moving, but taste good too.

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Earning the coveted title of coffee partners with the cycling gurus at Rapha, San Francisco’s own Four Barrel serves up one of the best cups of Joe around. We imported a beautiful bag of their Kenyan Muranga Theri and fell in love. This sweet coffee has a delicate citric acidity with a bold bitter end—available for $20 per 12-ounce bag at their Valencia Street shop and on their website.

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A Northeastern favorite, Gorilla Coffee hails “from a little town called Brooklyn.” The coffee is bold and strong, just as one would expect from the city that never sleeps. We found the Kenyan Fairview Estate to be nothing fancy, just a good solid coffee perfect for every day drinking. The buttery brew sells at Gorilla’s webshop for $15 per 12-ounce bag.

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Operating from their lone shop in Topeka, KS since 1993, PT’s Coffee Roasting roasts over 100 tons of specialty coffee a year. We got our hands on a half pound of the Organic Guatemala Finca Santa Isabel blend. Shortly after the first sip we noticed a subtle—almost floral—flavor that lingered even after the cup was gone. This smooth coffee sells for $15 per 12-ounce bag through their website.

Founded by a former Starbucks exec, Roasting Plant roasts a wide variety of beans on site every single day to offer the absolute freshest coffee possible. We snagged a bag of the Roasting Plant Blend, described by one CH taster as “how you imagine coffee should be” and the aromatic blend quickly became one of our favorites. Look to either of their two NYC locations or their online store where $22 will get you 16-ounce bag of premium beans.

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Located in the Hudson Valley just outside of NYC, Irving Farm roasts daily to achieve a “farm fresh” quality. As fans of their Flying Donkey espresso, we were eager to taste a few coffee bean selections, and found the Gotham Blend to have the most enticing full flavor. The dark smokiness really came through with each sip, resulting in a “luscious, powerful and strong” cup of coffee. Available at Irving Farm’s website for $14 per 12-ounce bag.

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Portland‘s Heart Coffee Roasters roasts twice weekly in-store to ensure consistent quality from each batch of season-specific beans. We tried the Guatemala El Limonar, a soft-hitting coffee with a slight nutty flavor, accented by notes of citrus. Heart’s lightly roasted coffees sell from $14 to $20 per 12-ounce bag throughout the Rose City as well as online.

After fifteen years of research and experimentation, the brains behind Seattle’s Espresso Vivace think they’ve found just the right way to roast their espresso beans. After many rounds of voluntary sampling we agree. Described by Vivace as being ideal for drip coffee and French presses, the Espresso Vita is a delightful blend that we found to be light and flavorful with a “classic” and “lovely” disposition. Available through Vivace’s webshop for around $16 per 16-ounce bag.


Shwood and Huf Sunglasses

The first product to come out of a video series on upcycling

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Oregon’s own wooden eyewear makers Shwood today premiered a latest sunglass collaboration with San Francisco streetwear label Huf. Made of broken skateboard decks, you can see the production process of the resulting “Six-Ply Fade” in the first experimental video on Shwood’s buzzy new site “Experiment with Nature.”

We recently caught up with Shwood founder Eric Singer to chat about “Experiment with Nature” and the consequential Huf collaboration.

How did the “Experiment with Nature” project come about?

“Experiment With Nature” has been Shwood’s tagline from the beginning. Everything from product concepts and manufacturing to packaging and branding strategies begin as an experiment in our wood shop. The EWN project was designed to share this experimental process and DIY mentality with the world. The videos aren’t simply about making sunglasses, but rather the concept of transforming everyday objects or natural resources into anything interesting really. Upcoming videos will feature everything from tools to transportation, all sharing the concept of transforming everyday objects or natural resources into interesting final products. We want to inspire others to try new things and see what works.

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How did you choose the content? Specifically, how did the collaboration with Huf owner Keith Hufnagel happen?

If there is one thing we have a lot of at Shwood, it’s creativity. Sometimes it can be a struggle to stay concentrated on producing sunglasses when there are so many other projects we are dying to experiment with. So we decided to share these creative experiments with others—built a website, called up our videographer and got started on the first series, “Skateboard Shades.”

We met Keith Hufnagel and crew at a tradeshow last year and immediately took a liking to one another’s brand. We decided to partner on a collaborative project and ended up with skateboard shades. Making sunglasses from old skate decks had been something we had wanted to experiment with for a long time. So it seemed like a good excuse to make the trek down to skate with our friends at Huf.


Dogs in Motion

Découverte de cette série de clichés de chiens en plein mouvements, secouant de l’eau. Des portraits étonnants en noir et blanc grâce à un travail de la photographe Carli Davidson, basée actuellement à Portland (Oregon). Plus d’images sur son portfolio et dans la suite de l’article.



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Carli Davidson Photography

Artful portraits capturing the personality of man’s best friend and other animals

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National Geographic-style exotic animals poised in their natural habitat these are not. Carli Davidson aims her lens at domesticated pets and zoo animals, capturing personalities rather than wild, untamed animal behavior. Based in Portland, Oregon, she’s internationally recognized for her work as a fine art pet photographer with her often humorous and consistently honest portraits.

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Davidson’s portfolio is every animal-lover’s dream with both editorial and studio series ranging from the colorful “Dogs and Cats” collection to charming photos from the “Oregon Zoo.” These include a triumphant pic of Conrad the polar bear licking a cream cheese cake off a window on his 25th birthday and a recently-hatched tiny turtle posed on top of a hundred dollar bill for scale.

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Another “aw”-inducing series, the “Handicapped Pet project” proves with levity that “your pet is beautiful no matter how many limbs it has”—like Ramen Noodle, an adorable pup who lost both his arms in two separate accidents. In his case, Davidson demonstrates Ramen Noodle’s resilience with images of him standing tall on his remaining hind legs, as well as carefree action shots of him running around in his wheelchair. (Also on Cool Hunting: I Heart Tripods)

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Apart from capturing humorous quirks in the off-moments when pets’ eyes go cross or tongues flop lazily from snouts, Davidson depicts their owners in “People & Pets.” Through artful posing, Davidson’s photographs—like a yawning puppy cupped in gentle, tattooed hands and a white-feathered parrot perched so it’s profile blends with its owner’s bright blue eyes —reflect the character of both individuals, as well as the bond between them.

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While Davidson’s work is generally lighthearted, she shows the dark side of animal life too. Her graphic series, “Bison Butchering,” follows the process of meat trading from pasture to slaughterhouse. She also sheds light on veterinary work with her visual photos of “Animal Surgery.” This includes the philanthropic work performed by the Oregon Zoo veterinarians who invite blind students for a hands-on experience of their operating rooms.

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Visit Davidson’s website to peruse her various photographic studies—including the irresistible series “Shake,” which features stills of various wide-eyed pooches shaking it out with flappy cheeks, windblown tufts of fur and airborne wads of drool. Contact her directly to snag exclusive prints.

via Zeutch.

All photography by Carli Davidson


Sticks & Stones

Deer antler, vegetable ivory and Purpleheart wood make up this Portland jeweler’s newest edition
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Admired by locals in the know, Portland, OR-based Sticks & Stones has flown under the mainstream radar since launching their stunning accessories line in 2009. As the name implies, materials like wood, fine metals and precious stones have remained at the core of their designs. Their recently launched Spring/Summer 2011 collection finds the brand adding an intriguing set of new materials to their lineup, with jewelry made from deer antlers, purpleheart wood and vegetable ivory.

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The colors of deer antlers span gorgeous milky white, caramel, stark black and gray. Since deer naturally shed their antlers each season, not only are the animals unharmed but Sticks & Stones makes beautiful use of an otherwise unused material. The deer antler pieces keep to an inherently beautiful earthy vibe, but those looking for a little more can add a premium black diamond set in 18k gold bezel.

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Using organic Central American vegetable ivory, Sticks & Stones creates unique pieces like the “Dirty Peach”and the “Egg” (made from the Piassaba Palm). The Purpleheart’s unique grain and natural purple pigment make for built-in beauty, which intensifies once exposed to oxygen and light. Once the desired color is reached, rich oils are used to seal its original luster.

Sticks & Stones’ arduous production process includes hand sanding to bring the wood to its smoothest state, followed by weeks of curing in oils to ensure the piece is strong enough to withstand all elements the Pacific Northwest is known for. With impeccable craftsmanship and a distinct combination of materials, each handmade piece is truly one of a kind.

Sticks & Stones is available in select stores in Oregon and their online boutique.

See more images in the gallery.


Nom&Ada

Casual leather sandals that aren’t your grandma’s comfort shoes
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Bi-continental shoe company Nom&Ada is named after its two founders: The “nomadic” Rie Sawai in Tokyo and the “adaptable” Kimy Andrade in Portland, OR. The two met while studying design at Parsons in NYC and remained close friends after graduating in 2004. Five years later they met halfway between their two homes in Hawaii, and when inspiration struck over iced Kona coffee they decided to embark on a joint venture.

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The duo recently launched their website and e-Boutique with their debut shoe, the “holoholo” moccasin. In Hawaiian, holoholo translates to “leisurely journey”—an apt name for the comfortable, casual riff on the classic T-strap sandal. Constantly on the move, Sawai and Andrade say they’re inspired by their travels and nostalgia, and the crepe-soled sandals are perfect for airline travel, with a pair of tights, or for impromptu hikes on a sunny weekend after brunch.

Despite the great distance between the two business partners, Sawai and Andrade do their best to collaborate as much as possible. “The time difference definitely kills,” they said—they even answer e-mails jointly—”but it makes the times that we do get to work together in the same location that much more special.”

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There are also advantages to having a close friend halfway around the world, saying “It adds different perspectives to our technical and creative process, and gives us an excuse to travel!” They chronicle their finds and inspirations on their blog, which they also write together. “Even though the majority of our conversation is business nowadays, we find a moment or two to catch up on girl talk,” they said.

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The crepe-soled leather sandals are handmade in Japan and come in black, white and camel—with the camel available with both white and flamingo stitching. They sell online for $260.


Portland Garment Factory

Inside an Oregon clothing plant that’s reinventing “Made in the U.S.A.”
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Just because a designer is local—whether in Austin, TX or Florence, Italy—doesn’t necessarily mean the garments were made there—or even in the same country. Thanks to fast fashion, there’s now a better-than-likely chance that even such smaller-batch production was outsourced to Asia. “Of course it’s deceptive, to say that clothes were made in the United States when they were really made in China,” said Britt Howard, founder and co-owner of the Portland Garment Factory. “Like clothes that say they’re made in Italy, when they’re only hand-finished there. Or they’ll sew the buttons on.”

Howard, a mother of two and sometime model, discovered this gap in the American indie production process in 2008 after trying and failing to find a local manufacturer for her line of baby clothing. She opened a tiny storefront to sew for Portland’s growing legion of independent designers (that includes three competitors and two winners of the reality show Project Runway) and two years, more than a few eighty-hour work weeks, and a business partner (Rosemary Robinson) later, PGF is now a booming enterprise. Today, the upstart completes orders for clients as far-flung as New York and Los Angeles in an airy new warehouse space in Portland’s bustling Montavilla neighborhood.

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“It’s been like, zero to sixty for us,” Robinson described. “We’re thinking about opening another location, maybe in San Francisco or Austin. But we’d want to keep it personal, to be able to keep that close relationship with the people we work with.”

And being a local manufacturer does enable PGF to have a more involved relationship with their clients. As their motto says, “We got your back.” Unlike overseas manufacturers, they’ll produce lots of as small as twenty units as well as in the thousands. Along with an army of eager interns, the plant also provides design consulting services, and Howard often finds herself serving as a de facto business counselor. “Sometimes I feel like I’m giving a seminar everyday,” Howard said with a laugh. “This is your retail price, and this is your wholesale price.”

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For small designers, PGF’s prices are comparable to—and the timeframe infinitely friendlier than—sending garments halfway around the world. That’s in addition to higher-quality craftsmanship, as well as the assurance that it’s sewn with pride by workers who are treated well. Leanne Marshall’s graceful, ballet-inspired collections and Paloma Soledad’s sultry gowns are only two of the many lines that are turning to the Factory—proof that just maybe that “Made in the U.S.A.” label will stand for something once again.


Wood & Faulk

A Portland DIY guru’s bags, aprons and more
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Like a younger Martha Stewart based in Portland, OR, Matt Pierce’s wide range of skills—from sewing to woodworking and furniture-making—keeps him busy tinkering in the house (that he renovated) and his garden workshop. “I used to worry that because I was so interested in so many different things, that I could never become an expert in any one thing,” he said. “Then I learned to embrace it. It’s just my style to do a lot of different things.”

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But Pierce hasn’t always been a chronic tinkerer; he also works as a graphic, interior and web designer (with clients like Adult Swim on his roster). It’s perhaps this background that gives his all his work—from bags to doors and aprons—a distinctly utilitarian feel that doesn’t detract from its handsomeness. “I like looking at Army-Navy stores, and using materials in ways that they weren’t intended to be used,” he said, sitting at the table that he made from metal, red Kevlar and wood given to him by his grandfather in Kansas (Pierce’s native state).

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Pierce’s beautifully photographed site Wood & Faulk does perfect justice to his sturdily made and affordable products, which he produces in small batches and rotate frequently. “I think my next project might be a DIY lamp kit,” he said. “I’d provide the die-cut pieces and tubing.” Some of his other items for sale include a handsome heavy cotton carpenter’s bag and pocket notebooks for when you have some inspirations of your own.

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Wood & Faulk products sell online. To learn about ongoing projects, check out the blog.