Natural Sodas

Organic ingredients and natural sweetness from six boutique soda makers

Channeling the flavors of childhood without the sugary side effects, natural sodas keep the fizz while eliminating harmful preservatives. Instead, these sustainably sourced drinks call upon organically grown ingredients for the freshest in flavor. The following is a selection of six sodas that combine light sweetness with a bit of zest for a satisfying substitute to that classic can of Coke.

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Hot Lips Soda

The 100% local, fresh ingredients packed in a bottle of Hot Lips bring the best of the Pacific Northwest straight to your lips. Recycled glass bottles house some spectacular essences, and we’re partial to the velvety Boysenberry—a rare flavor in the soda world—which is made from fruit out of Western Washington’s Willamette Valley.

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Belvoir Fruit Farms

Handcrafting cordials since the 70s, Belvoir Fruit Farms
creates perfectly balanced sodas that reflect their freshly picked contents. The assortment of fizz-filled “pressés” actually quench your thirst while tingling your palate with the delicate flavors of elderflower, lime and lemongrass, cranberry and English apple, among others.

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Fresh Ginger

Created by Bruce Cost, the author of “Ginger East to West”, Fresh Ginger Ale is arguably the purest ginger drink around. The lightly carbonated soda is made exclusively from fresh ginger and cane sugar, and is left unfiltered with a rich, full-bodied flavor profile. While perfectly good solo, the drink shines when paired with a plate of fresh sushi or mixed with a measure of gin.

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Fentimans

The century-old soda maker Fentimans prides itself on a “botanically brewed” process, which involves infusion, boiling and a seven-day fermentation period. Made from natural ingredients like ginger root, dandelion leaves and juniper berries, many of the heavily spiced concoctions drinks also pack a strong caffeine punch.

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Dry Soda Co.

Dry Soda Co. was born from the intent to create a non-alcoholic drink with full flavor and a small amount of pure cane sugar. Clear and elegant bottles contain exotic flavors of rhubarb, juniper, lavender and lemongrass alongside more mellow offerings of blood orange, cucumber, wild lime and vanilla bean.

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Maine Root

Old-fashioned Maine Root is rightfully known for flagship root beer, although we’re partial to the Spicy Ginger brew and regional favorite sarsaparilla, which is touted as a lighter alternative to the root beer. The Portland-based company uses fair trade ingredients and organic evaporated cane juice for sweetness.


Dandelion Chocolate

Stunning flavors from a purist bean-to-bar chocolate maker
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The continued evolution of the bean-to-bar and new American chocolate movements seems to have spawned bars that range from tasty to grainy. A growing outfit out of the Bay Area has quickly gained a loyal following for their products, which are made with a purist philosophy that has yielded delightful flavor and texture. Dandelion Chocolate was founded by Cameron Ring and Todd Masonis as a venture out of their garage, selling their goods at the now defunct underground food markets of San Francisco. “We had to start by buying machines and we bought a few bags of beans and just started roasting them up,” says Masonis about their humble origins. “We sort of got lucky that our first couple of batches were really good.”

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What sets Dandelion apart is the simple recipe informing their product—everything is left to the bean. “All of our bars are 70% beans, 30% sugar and nothing else,” says Masonis. “Our bars all have really distinct tastes because that’s what we look for in the beans. Our Madagascar bar this harvest tastes very fruity and tastes a lot like citrus and has some strawberry and cherry notes. We’ll go to farmer’s markets, people will try it and swear that there is fruit in the bar. In fact, it’s just the bean itself.”

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Major chocolate makers are all about consistency. To achieve an even flavor profile and texture across the board, they throw in additives. This isn’t possible with bean-to-bar, which naturally bears the mark of particular seasons, geographies and harvest methods. Masonis and Ring embrace the idea of making pure chocolate without the help of additives, producing bars in limited batches that reflect a unique bean harvested from a single place at a given time.

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The texture of Dandelion Chocolate’s bars is significantly more velvety than most bean-to-bar makers. Each bar has very distinct coloration, an artifact of the particular bean. We really enjoyed the Colombian bar, which had a dark coloration and deep, rich chocolate flavor—a purist’s dream. The Madagascar bar was marked by a bold flavor profile, bursting with cherry and a slight sourness. As for the Venezuelan option, the mellow smoothness was highlighted by moments of spice and fruitiness.

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Masonis and Ring make it a point to visit the growers personally when possible to ensure they work with operations with sound labor practices. Not only does this cut out the middle man, it results in better beans that are harvested by well-treated workers. “Some of the cacao that we love the most comes from Madagascar because it has this really incredibly fruity flavor,” says Masonis, reflecting on a recent trip to the African island. “Some people find it too strong, almost overpowering, but we love it. We went to check it out and helped out on the farm for a couple days to make sure everything was on the up-and-up.”

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Dandelion’s packaging is made from recycled paper from India’s garment industry, lending the paper a cottony feel. On the label is printed the bean origin, harvest date, batch number and tasting notes. On the reverse you find the initials of the batch maker and packager for the individual bar. Each creation is molded and packaged by hand, the chocolate made in small, well-tended batches.

The future of Dandelion Chocolate looks promising, and the pair are currently working on getting permits to open a factory and cafe on Valencia Street in the Mission District. “We still consider ourselves getting off the ground, but it seems that people have responded really well to the chocolate. Now we’re just scrambling to make as much as we can as quickly as we can,” explains Masonis.

For now, Dandelion Chocolate can be found online and at select retail locations.


A.I. Selections

Beauty through balance in a sommelier’s portfolio of small-batch wines
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Acid Inc. may suggest an illicit obsession, but for sommelier David Weitzenhoffer and his partner Laura Supper, the name (professionally called A.I. Selections) relays their passion for wines higher in acidity—a key component for an exceptionally well-paired meal. “You can feel acidity in wine usually as that sort of prickling sensation toward the front of your tongue,” Weitzenhoffer explains. “To me acidity does several things with food but the most important is that it gets its claws into the flavors that are already on your palate and marries the flavors in the wine with that of the food. It also has an important role in cutting richness, and balancing out high acid dishes like crudo, tomatoes, vinaigrettes, etc.”

Wanting to learn even more about the fine art of such balance from beginning to end, Weitzenhoffer left his post at Lidia Bastianich’s renowned restaurant Felidia and moved to northwest Italy, where he worked with artisanal producers around the vineyards of Piedmonte. Four years ago he put this knowledge to serious use and began importing these small-batch wines to restaurants in New York, San Francisco and LA.

With just about 40 producers in their portfolio—most of which are organic or biodynamic—Weitzenhoffer and Supper concentrate on finding wine that is a reflection of the people making it, working off the ethos, “Good wine; good people”. They seek out conscientious farmers who know their terroir and distinctly cultivate their vines, leading to wines that have a clear focus and excellent finish. “Some of these artisan producers are making wines with more soul and character, great age-ability, and most importantly wines that are more food appropriate, all the while creating a wine that comes from a specific place—a wine that couldn’t come from any other place than their little piece of earth,” says Weitzenhoffer.

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We had the pleasure of tasting several wines with Weitzenhoffer recently, who guides you through a selection casually, but with great understanding of each wine at hand. We started with Champagne, tasting both a glass of crisp bubbly from Michel Rocourt and then one from Doyard—which Weitzenhoffer explains is “not so bubbly it sears your tongue, it has a rich yeasty quality while using acidity to keep it fresh. It’s why it is poured by the glass at places like Babbo, Jean Georges, AI Fiori, and others here in New York.”

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To accompany the classic cheese and crackers snack, Weitzenhoffer suggests a Lambrusco, especially the Ca’ Montanari Opera02 Lambrusco, which he says is unparalleled stateside. For white wine, Weitzenhoffer says he is a “sucker for Chablis”, which is made from Chardonnay grapes, but “due to the sea shells in the soils has a great minerality, and chalky character that makes it ideal for all sorts of early courses—trout, various crudo, pea soup, oysters!!!” He recommends a Chablis from the mother-and-daughter team at Château De Béru, an organic farm situated on the clay and limestone slopes of the Chablis Grand Cru foothills.

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“For me Nebbiolo is the most complex wine in the world and while it takes a little work and often time to fully understand the grape, it is so great with various foods from lighter meats, to heavy meat,” says Weitzenhoffer. Most wine drinkers know that a good Barolo or Barbaresco isn’t cheap, so he suggests trying a Nebbiolo d’Alba, a younger wine made from the same grapes. “Cascina Luisin makes one from old vines and is delicious”, he says. “I’d be thrilled to walk into a retail shop and spend $27 on a bottle like this that drinks like something much more expensive.”

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With the mentality that “wine is for the people”, Weitzenhoffer and Supper’s approach sets out to enlighten palates with perfectly balanced, yet ultra-interesting wines that enhance food and transport you to the place where it was created. A.I. wines can be found in restaurants like Craft and Blue Hill in NYC, Terroni in LA and Bar Tartine in San Francisco.


Bocce’s Bakery

Hand cut, organic, human-grade dog treats baked in NYC’s West Village

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Keeping Cool Hunting mascots Otis and Logan well rewarded in recent weeks has been NYC’s very own Bocce’s Bakery. Driven by wellness and sustainability, the small batch dog treatery uses only “human-grade” ingredients—antibiotic-free beef, hormone-free white meat chicken, wheat free flour—for their all-natural dog biscuits. What started as a humble project for a beloved pet has evolved into a professional business, although the hands on, oven baked cooking process has yet to change.

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Otis and Logan devour the treats in seconds, delightfully licking the hard wood floors for every last savory taste. Hit flavors included chicken cordon bleu, beef bourguinon, fish and chips and PB’n’J, which is made with a short and simple list of just three organic ingredients—oat flour, blueberries, peanut butter. These few items, along with all others used by Bocce’s Bakery are locally sourced from upstate NY and the tri-state area whenever seasonably possible.

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Bocce’s Bakery biscuits are offered in seven distinct flavors, each with heaps of healthy ingredients your four-legged friends will love. Available through Bocce’s Bakery online and a long list of loyal stockists for $9.50 a bag.

photos by Josh Rubin


Pemberton Distillery

Organic potato vodka, locally malted whiskey and G&T syrups brewed in British Columbia
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On a recent trip to Whistler, we had the opportunity to sample the vodka from Pemberton Distillery, a fledgling outfit nestled in the Pemberton Valley of British Columbia. Within their unassuming walls, the distillery employs copper stills to create a line of locally sourced, organic liquors.

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Designed as a sipping spirit, Schramm Vodka has a deliciously clean flavor followed by a distinctive finish. Pemberton’s potatoes are free from herbicides, long-life chemicals and fertilizers, earning organic certification from the B.C. Pacific Agricultural Society. The distillery also produces syrups to spice up gin & tonic cocktails and vanilla extract made from the house vodka.

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Schramm Gin is a potato gin created in handcrafted, small-batch runs with only eight botanical flavors added during the distillation process. Pemberton is also adding a whiskey to their line when it matures in 2013, which will be made from organic barley that’s malted in B.C. and then aged in bourbon casks.

Spirits from Pemberton Distillery sell online and from select distributors in B.C.


Chai Time

Four small-batch food sellers dish up delicious spiced flavors

No matter what the weather, chai remains a perennial favorite for its mix of sharp spices and pleasant sweetness, balanced out by a milky base. Coming away from the 2012 Fancy Food Show, we found four small businesses who are channeling the classic blend in various forms of food and drink.

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The Chai Cart

Paawan Kothari left her Silicon Valley career to take advantage of the food truck movement in San Francisco, dealing out childhood flavors to curbside pedestrians. The business quickly took off, and now Kothari offers her goods in concentrate form. This is our favorite of the bunch with good reason; Kothari personally sources her ingredients and no sugar is added to the final product. The Chai Cart offers masala, rose and chai latte concentrates in addition to a line of loose teas.

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Bhakti Chai

Founded in 2008, the goods from Bhakti Chai have stayed mostly in the Rocky Mountain region. Serving up Original, Unsweetened, Decaf and Coffee Blend chai concentrates, the flavors are also available in massive 64oz. growlers for the serious chai fiend. Ginger overtones are balanced by the sweet anise notes from fennel. The organic, fair trade tea is given its punch from evaporated cane juice and a series of fresh spices. Bhakti Chai also dedicates a portion of their proceeds to charitable organizations, including the Global Fund for Women and Girls Education International.

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Third St. Chai

Another Colorado brand, Third St. offers six flavors of concentrated chai that is prepared simply by adding milk. The microbrewed beverage can be served hot, iced or blended, and is only slightly sweetened. Showing responsibility at every turn, the Third St. facility is fully wind-powered, and the ingredients they use are composted for local farmers.

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Hippie Chow

Complement your hot cup of chai with a similarly flavored handful of Hippie Chow granola. While they make a number of mixes, the aggressively spiced chai version is definitely the standout. The all-natural ingredients list includes organic oats, almonds, honey, canola oil, spices, sugar, vanilla extract and salt—exactly the kind of wholesome goodness you would expect from a brand called “Hippie Chow”.


I Heart Keenwah

Superfood snack-makers combine all-natural, gluten-free ingredients for a surprisingly tasty treat

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Touted as the only whole grain that’s a complete source of protein, South American quinoa contains all nine essential amino acids and has thus become one of the most favored superfoods in recent years. To harvest the health benefits of the gritty grain in a tasty way, I Heart Keenwah makes surprisingly delicious little snack squares packed with gluten-free, all-natural ingredients.

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Of the four available flavors—almond, cranberry cashew, ginger peanut and chocolate sea salt—we preferred the chocolate sea salt and almond for their modest, yet distinctive flavor. Although some of us were a bit apprehensive to dive headfirst into the superfood snack when Josh and Evan brought them in to the office this morning, after one little Keenwah cluster I was hooked. The salted almonds added to the intense crunch from the quinoa, while the sweet honey flavor was the perfect compliment to really pull the natural ingredients together.

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Unlike artificial snack foods these tasty little morsels are filling, healthful and actually taste really good. For now Keenwah is only available in stores across Chicago, Milwaukee, Mineapolis and New York, with additional availability through their online store where a four-ounce bag goes for $5.


Grazin’

The USA’s first Animal Welfare-approved restaurant opens in a ’50s diner in Hudson, NY

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To call the newly-opened Grazin’ diner in Hudson, NY farm fresh is an understatement. The first restaurant in the USA to be certified Animal Welfare Approved, everything served in the restaurant comes from family farms that raise livestock humanely outdoors and pasture feed the animals, and nearly everything comes from farms within an 11-mile radius. The restaurant opened on the first of this month in a shuttered 1950s diner in Hudson, NY, a town known for its farms and antique shops that draws regular crowds of NYC-based weekenders.

The diner’s centerpiece are the burgers from the owners’ own 2,000-acre, environmentally-friendly Black Angus cattle farm a few miles away. Grazin’ Angus Acres farm relies primarily on wind power, and Dan Gibson and his crew keep their entire process completely natural, beginning with the way they raise their livestock.

The cows, chickens and pigs roaming the farm graze on a natural pasture diet. Grazin’ abides by the scientific evidence that pasture-fed animals are healthier than those who eat corn, and the belief that grass-fed and finished meat tastes better, too. When it’s time to slaughter the animals, Grazin’ eschews industrial slaughterhouses, working instead with a local butcher.

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Piled on buns baked by our friends at Hawthorne Valley, a neighboring biodynamic farm, and topped with cheese from Hawthorne Valley and Consider Bardwell Farm, a century-old grass-fed dairy nearby, these are locavore burgers through and through. Wash it down with a milkshake made with homemade ice cream and organic milk from Grazin’s neighbors at Milk Thistle Farm, or homemade organic soda pulled from their old-fashioned fountain.

The Grazin’ Angus Acres farm is located in Ghent, NY and welcomes visitors, but because of their sustainable focus they don’t ship any products. For people in the NYC area, Grazin’ meats can also be found at several greenmarkets.

Grazin’ Diner
717 Warren Street
Hudson, NY 12534
Telephone: (518) 822-9323


Koval Distillery

Organic small-batch spirits entirely handcrafted in the heart of Chicago

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Just a few blocks from Hollywood Beach in Andersonville is Koval, Chicago’s first boutique distillery since the days of prohibition. Robert and Sonat Birnecker, the husband-and-wife team behind Koval, handcraft vodka, whiskey, brandy and liqueurs entirely from scratch, drawing on Robert’s long lineage in the brewery business as well as the farm-fresh grains and produce the Midwest region has to offer.

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Unlike many small-batch producers, Koval doesn’t start with a pre-made base. From mashing to bottling, they keep the entire process in-house, distilling their entirely organic spirits in a custom-built Kothe Destillationstechnik potstill from Germany. The still’s elongated whiskey helmet, designed specifically for grain spirits, allows a greater surface area for the liquor to develop a full aroma and distinct flavor.

Koval started out by producing five single-grain white whiskeys, which are more flavorful than vodka and slightly more intense than aged whiskey. With its powerful punch, white whiskeys make great mixed drinks. For sippers, they also distill regular and dark single-grain aged whiskeys, branded under the name Lion’s Pride. Like the white whiskeys, the Lion Pride varieties include rye, wheat, oat, spelt and millet, all matured in new American oak barrels sourced from The Barrel Mill in central Minnesota.

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We tried a few of Koval’s spirits, finding that each style had a definitively different flavor. The Levant Spelt white whiskey tastes like a slightly bland moonshine, but would serve as a good base for a cocktail with heartier mixers, while the sweeter Lion’s Pride regular rye would work well in a Manhattan that’s easy on the vermouth. We enjoyed the Lion’s Pride dark millet as a sipping whiskey, and the rosehip liqueur would go great in a lavender martini or other floral drink.

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Prices vary depending on type, but on average a 750-milliliter bottle of Koval whiskey runs around $40 and sells online from West Lakeview Liquors or from Koval’s brick-and-mortar shop.


Anahola Granola

Bring some all-natural aloha to your tastebuds with this small-batch granola from Kauai
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Since 1986 Anahola Granola has been handmaking granola with a focus on fresh, quality ingredients in Hawaii. Founder Becky Burns’ obsession with the region’s surplus of exotic, tropical flavors dates back even further to when she bought a one-way ticket to the islands in the summer of ’69. This affinity for the land combined with baking skills learned as a child pushed Burns to start her venture by selling granola at local fairs and farmer’s markets throughout the islands. As demand grew so did production, while the recipe stayed the same.

Standards for quality remain unchanged too; each variety of granola—original, tropical, mango ginger—ships the day after it’s made. Our personal preference leans toward the tropical granola, made with the Anahola mix of whole grain oats, seeds and local honeys, superbly accented with sun-ripened papaya, coconut and sweet pineapple.

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For granola on the go, the MacaMania bars burst with the same delicious island flavors. Using Burn’s original granola as a base, the bar is studded with Hawaiian-grown macadamia nuts, flavored with sweet honey and brown sugar, and gets its crunch from puffed brown rice cereal. We may have just been hungry, but the sliced MacaMania bar disappeared seconds after we snapped these images.

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Burns’ treats are now served in many of Hawaii’s upscale hotels and restaurants, and sell through a long list of health food stores, cafes, grocery stores, as well as from Anahola Granola’s online store. Each 12-ounce bag sells for $6, while the MacaMania bars go for $2.50 each.