Hasta La Ideas

More than meets the eye from ties handmade in an East Village living room

Working out of an East Village apartment, Curie Choi and Beverly Liang meticulously craft their collection of “man enhancing” ties under the label C. Chauchat. The name, borrowed from German novel “The Magic Mountain” and its otherworldly temptress Madame Chauchat, also translates to “hot cat” in French. Much like their ties, the well-considered choice is both playful and has depth.

By layering sheer fabric over opaque prints, the duo create a look that’s subtly complex. A gauzy black tones down a vivid jungle print, but even there faint inflections, like a pale paint splotch or muted stripe, show through. Employing a “special insane hand collaging” technique, Choi and Liang even produced a tie that features four layers of fabric—silk chiffon, tulle and two different printed cottons.

When designing, the pair constantly think about what looks good on a man and how the tie fits into his world, but they use feminine fabrics and techniques from dressmaking. This “women’s take on masculinity” is inspired by the stylish men in their lives. While they appreciate refined dressing, the ties are meant as an everyday accessory, not a showpiece.

Now in their third season, their latest collection was inspired by a “dandy on vacation,” presenting an assortment of rakish styles that channel Op Art, magic eye posters and David Hockney paintings. Also look out for a collaborative collection of scarves, ties and bow ties in Rober Gellar’s Fall/Winter 2011 season.

Each made by hand, the C. Chauchat ties and bow ties sell worldwide for $155-180 from Strasburgo in Japan, as well as from Creatures of Comfort, La Garçonne and Assembly in New York.

See more images after the jump.

Portland, OR outerwear company designs classic hunting and camping styles for the big city

Clothing designer Erik Prowell originally named his outerwear company La Merde. “We wanted a name that was fancy, and yet…wasn’t. Then Nordstrom refused to carry the line because of the name,” he said when we recently visited his Portland, OR studio. After a moment, he reflected, “If there hadn’t been a recession, we probably would’ve kept it.”

Now known as Bridge & Burn, Prowell’s sleek, yet warm wool coats and waxed cotton jackets are suitable for both city-dwellers and hikers alike. Bridge & Burn provides a solution to that perennial Portland quandary—where to find a decent-looking rain jacket. Prowell grew up in Bend, Oregon and was inspired by his father’s and grandfather’s camping and hunting gear. “I loved to wear my father’s Woolrich and Filson jackets and my grandfather’s old military uniforms from WWII. It’s great to see the resurgence of all the heritage brands. At the same time, I spend most of my time in the city and don’t feel a need to dress up like an outdoorsman,” Prowell said.

Prowell has no background in the fashion industry. His schooling was in computer science, and his introduction to the business came through an avenue that most of us can relate to—making funny T-shirts with a college friend. That project, with Josh Hindson, eventually became No Star, which still bills itself as “A Funny T-Shirt Company.” After a good friend gave the pair a crash course in apparel design, they formed La Merde. But when managing their combined projects became too complicated (Prowell also runs a photography-based T-shirt business called Oh, Snap!) the two agreed to part ways and companies. The Boise-based Hindson handles No Star, while Prowell decided to take Bridge & Burn in a different direction.

“In my mind, La Merde was a little flashier. Bridge & Burn represents my passion for clean, classic and functional design,” said the multi-talented entrepreneur, who also created the branding, shot all the photography, designed their print materials, and programmed the website. For the Fall ’10 season, he branched out from outerwear into button-ups, and Spring ’11 will see shorts for men and dresses for women.

Prowell’s clean, laid-back live/work studio and apartment, near bustling Burnside Street, embodies his holistic approach to life and design. The bedroom, lofted above the work and studio areas, lends privacy, while tall windows let plenty of light and air into the vaulted space. Despite an apparently frenetic work schedule, Prowell remains unassuming, relaxed—and astonishingly tall. “I made a couple of jackets custom-fitted for me, and then decided to get rid of them,” he said, referring to a recent sample sale. “They were XXXL, so I didn’t think they were going to sell. But both did! Just the right people walked in.” Prowell’s success in a downtime economy is due to a distinctive vision, a determined work ethic, and maybe just a little bit of luck.

Bridge & Burn sells online, and across the country in stores such as Mini Minimarket in Brooklyn, NY; Frances May in Portland, OR (the boutique who gave Prowell his start); and Molte Cose in San Francisco, CA. For more updates on future products, check Bridge & Burn’s blog.

Four tweaked takes on menswear from New York Fashion Week

by Camille Hunt

Steadily emerging from the shadows of their flashier female counterparts, some of our favorite menswear collections that hit runways last week in New York were an array of impeccably-tailored ensembles, each continuing to probe different spins on mens dress codes—what fashion editors call “directional.” From Siki Im’s modern Arabian look to a literally criminal interpretation of Americana by N.Hoolywood, the collections profiled below stand out for conceptual and innovative designs, while remaining wearable (depending on just how futuristic you dress). Pictured above (from left to right): Bespoken, General Idea, N.Hoolywood, Siki Im.

Bespoken

While you wouldn’t be wrong for bristling at the name, the latest collection from brothers James, Liam and Sam Fayed successfully blends their sartorial experience (their father Ali Al-Fayed owns the British suit company Turnbull & Asser) with modern elements for Bespoken. Suits, trench coats and double-breasted cardigans come expertly tailored, yet have a slightly disheveled look they describe as “Saville Row meets rock ‘n’ roll”—i.e. it’s a wardrobe for aspiring lil’ moguls, befitting of the founders themselves. A series of shirts, ties and pocket squares were also made in collaboration with their family’s iconic brand.

General Idea

General Idea designer Bemsuk Choi’s fourth New York Fashion Week collection was all about “the journey back to the familiar,” which in his hands looks like a vision of future ’80s nostalgia. Crisp basics preceded modern silhouettes in a color palate that progressed from all-white to pops of bright red, brushstroke graffiti print and multicolored paint splashes on jackets, pants and shorts, with materials ranging from cotton and tencel to linen and even polyester.

N. Hoolywood

“Police Picture,” Japan-born Daisuke Obana’s appropriately-named spring collection for N.Hoolywood, took cues from the American convicts of the 1930s with shirts, jackets and hats in thin and thick stripes, gingham and printed denim. The buzzed-about presentation had attendees peer through glass windows where street-casted models appeared in a jailhouse-style lineup.

Siki Im

Siki Im was an architect before shifting to fashion and working under both Karl Lagerfeld and Helmut Lang. His latest xenophopia-inspired collection channels an urban sheik vibe, with knee-length linen tunics, pants with dropped crotches and caps made with washed and dyed silks to resemble desert headdresses.

Veteran designer Jose Abellar recently left his post at Gap to put his own spin on classic American style, creating Gilbert & Lewis, where high fashion meets functional plaids. An expression of Abellar’s favorite fashion components, Gilbert & Lewis is an evolved view of sportswear boasting bold colors, great patterns and slim fits.

The inaugural Spring/Summer collection (above) features a fresh color scheme inspired by the vibrantly colored lifeguard stands on Miami’s South Beach. A matching tie compliments each of the button downs, adding to the label’s slightly nerdy aesthetic while offering a “confidently off-center” base for the label’s tailored suits.

Artist Carlos Aponte, who designed the cover of the look book, served as both inspiration and an illustrator for the forthcoming Autumn/Winter collection (at top and below). A hybrid of “English professor and the great outdoorsman,” the fall collection teems with velvety corduroys, tweed blazers and chunky sweaters all deconstructed or pre-washed for a cozy, lived-in feel.

Named after Abellar’s and his longtime partner and collaborator David Ayala’s alter egos, Gilbert & Lewis is a decidedly modern approach with a genuine vintage twist, referencing great cinematic characters like those found in John Hughes movies.

The line sells from stores around the world such as Unionmade, Bird, United Arrows, and soon online.

See more of the Spring/Summer collection in the gallery.

A former banker, Alexander West is no stranger to the button-down shirt. After finding a lack of smartly designed, nicely tailored shirts on the market he took it upon himself to create them. While he’s not doing shirts for women (yet), West took the time to make a custom-fitted shirt for me and the result is nothing short of remarkable both in fit and style.

West provides a few options for fashioning a custom shirt. If there is already a shirt you adore you can send it in for him to recreate, or he will simply take your measurements either online or in person at the NYC showroom. To ensure the same quality for the DIY measuring as an in-person appointment, West supplies a short video on how to accurately measure yourself. Offering a few hundred colors and fabric patterns online, a trip to the showroom reveals a seemingly endless supply of options (over 1200 in all).

Once fully measured, West provides even more choices such as type of collar or cuff, pocket or pocket-less and shape of the bottom edge. A personal favorite, West will also add an embroidered monogram with three choices on placement.

His attention to detail and raw understanding of both fit and cut leads to a precisely tailored shirt that meets a customer’s exact specifications. Depending on fabric choice, shirts range from $105-150 or $175 for a tuxedo shirt. Check his website for a full list of products including ties and cufflinks.