Hasta La Ideas

Checking in with the “nose” behind the Italian label’s first perfume

As anyone who’s sought a signature scent knows, selecting the right one is much harder than it seems. From the balance of notes and allusions to something that stands out from the crowd, perfume bears the burden of channeling the most poetic aspect of personal style. Imagine then the task of coming up with Bottega Veneta’s first scent.

That was the job put to Michel Almairac, the famous perfumer behind Bottega Veneta Parfum. His solution elegantly marries the heritage of the label with the history of perfumery itself by inventing a leather smell based on the tanneries in Grasse, France—the world’s perfume capital since the 18th century that’s also home to many tanneries, due to the abundance of water. The scent evokes this essence of Grasse as well as the luxurious aroma of well-tanned leather, an important distinction Almairac made from poorly-tanned leather that can “smell like a goat.”

This particular leather scent (which now solely belongs to Bottega) is the big innovation, but we also learned a new bit of perfume vocabulary when we had the chance to meet Almairac in Paris recently. Chypre, based on the smell of Cyprus, defines the structure of a scent that pairs citrus with florals and more woodsy base-notes. After consulting with Bottega’s Creative Director Tomas Maier (no outside tests were done), this chypre takes form with Italian bergamot, Indian patchouli, Indian Sambac jasmine and Brazilian pink peppercorns.

The result of this “weaving of scent,” inspired by the brand’s level of craftsmanship, as Michel puts it, “smells like Bottega Veneta.” It has a remarkable consistency that, for those of us who have been wearing it for a few weeks now, has elicited many compliments. This strength comes from the kind of absolute elegance for which Maier is known.

Comparing the art of making perfume to cooking, Almairac describes how it’s the little details that make the difference when it comes to blending ingredients that compliment each other perfectly, creating a sense of mystery by combining new things. While he explained that sometimes you can’t oversimplify and need to add more, that was not the case with this perfume. The other key factor comes from new methods of extraction and manufacturing scents, as well as artisanal, quality ingredients, including handmade bases—resulting in what is the most expensive perfume Almairac has made in terms of ingredients.

Having such a success on their first outing, Bottega Veneta seems poised to create more scents in the future. It’s easy to imagine a less floral version for men from this base, and Almairac confirmed there’s “room for a family.” For now, we have to be content with this perfume, which is now available at stores in a gorgeous Murano glass bottle. The line sells from Bottega’s newly-revamped site, starting at $65 for a 30-milliliter bottle.

Contributions by Ami Kealoha and Evan Orensten

Wrap your mobile phone in fine, seamless Italian leather

Slovenian company Calypso Crystal continues to add a human touch to tech accessories with their new Italian leather Calypso Case. Like their remarkable, hand-polished Crystal Dock, the cases are the work of experienced craftsmen who hand-stretch the leather skin around the titanium frame in order to avoid stitching.

The Calypso speaks to the beauty vs. protection dilemma many iPhone users have with most protective cases. Not only is it arguably as luxurious as the device itself, but its holster-like design allows you to keep the phone secure when not in use, and still show off its glossy exterior when it is.

Handcrafted in four vibrant colorways, the Calypso Case works with the iPhone 4 and 4S. Pick one up at Calypso Crystal online for $119.

London designer Tomás Alonso presented a range of shelves and lighting that combine ash timber with leather saddlery during the London Design Festival.

Each shelf is suspended on natural leather straps, of a similar tone and colour to the wood.

The timber and leather are joined with little brass studs.

The collection also includes a basket, a tray and a lamp with a glass shade.

Vera, Chapter One was an exhibition curated by Kirsty Minns and Érika Muller (KM & ÉM), which asked designers to use a fictional character, Vera, as their muse.

See all our stories about the London Design Festival here.

Photographs are by Benedict Morgan.

The text below is from Vera curators KM & ÉM:

Tomás Alonso
Aintree

Every weekend, for as far back as she could remember, Vera and her parents would go away for day trips, sometimes to the beach, sometimes to the hills, sometimes to see her Aunt and Granddad. It was what they did.

She especially liked going to Stanmer Park. It was a regular outing spot for her and her family, but she didn’t mind because she could see the horses there. She loved horses.

Looking at them in the fields always gave her a feeling of freedom. It made her daydream of all the places they could go the day she learnt how to ride. She was especially fond of Aintree- that’s the name she gave her favourite one. She imagined he would grow into a strong pure bred that would win the Grand National, who knows maybe even ridden by her one day.

See also:

.

Furniture by Benjamin Hubert for De La Espada	Matilda 2011 at designjunction	Local Collection by Maxim Velčovský

Weekender bag fatta a mano in Downtown, LA. By Killspencer.

Utilitarian backpacks handmade by a Minneapolis-based artist

After working on a “bucolic sheep farm” in rural New Zealand, artist Amber Johnson returned to Minneapolis—where she received a BFA in drawing from the College of Art and Design—and began experimenting with wool in her parents’ basement. Her seemingly innate talent for hand crafting utilitarian bags took shape, and today the young designer peddles wool and leather backpacks online under the moniker Sketchbook.

Primarily working with premium wool when she started out in 2006, Jensen has since expanded the collection to include leather and waterproof waxed canvas styles, increasing the durability while maintaining a classic aesthetic. The Great Outdoors Backpack, for example, reflects the simplicity of early mountaineering bags, but features a new type of waterproof fabric that more closely matches untreated cotton duck.

While the exteriors are adorned with elegantly robust hardware, the interiors are equally beautiful. The gray Track Backpack is particularly stunning, a straightforward bag lined with a tangerine-hued nylon ripstop and accented with handles and straps made from Ralph Lauren remnant leather.

Each bag is prototyped and tested by Jensen before making several others, and every piece is made by hand. The packs can be purchased online from the Etsy Sketchbook shop, with styles typically spanning $150-200.