Rise by Hussein Chalayan

Two-in-one dresses that transform with a single tug were shown as part of London-based fashion designer Hussein Chalayan’s Autumn Winter 2013 collection at Paris Fashion Week (+ slideshow).

Rise Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Hussein Chalayan

Garments are tugged at the neckline to release poppers across the shoulders and reveal a layer of material tucked beneath.

Rise Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Hussein Chalayan

This layer of fabric cascades down the body, hiding the previous top underneath and creating a new full-length outfit.

Rise Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Hussein Chalayan

The garments designed for Chalayan‘s Black Line aim to combine daywear and evening apparel into a single garment.

Rise Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Hussein Chalayan

The first outfit morphs from a dark dress, with thick straps and slits up the skirt, to a lighter evening look patterned with vertical gradients of beige for most of the length, fading into purples towards the hem.

Rise Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Hussein Chalayan

A knee-length burgundy dress reveals a green and red printed scarf as it falls into a floor-length black gown. Another black evening dress, this time with asymmetrical straps, is unveiled from beneath a colourful, textured cocktail dress.

Rise Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Hussein Chalayan

We interviewed Hussein Chalayan back in 2009 in conjunction with an exhibition of his work at London’s Design Museum, and featured his laser dresses for Swarovski as part of our Designed in Hackney showcase of talent from the east London borough.

Rise Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Hussein Chalayan

Other transforming clothing on Dezeen includes Issey Miyake’s range that expand from two-dimensional geometric shapes. More stories from Paris Fashion Week include clothes made of bin liners by Gareth Pugh and Sylvio Giardina’s outfits constricted by fabric sausages.

See all our stories about designs by Hussein Chalayan »
See all the Autumn Winter 2013 collections on Dezeen »
See all our stories about fashion »

Read on for more information from the designer:


Chalayan Black Line Autumn Winter 2013 Rise

The Autumn Winter 2013 Chalayan collection was developed around the dichotomy between domestically earthbound environments: disembodiment and metamorphosis.

As has long been a part of the design language of the house, the AW13 Chalayan collection takes details from household items such as sofa covers, upholstery etc., and fuses them with garments that appear to be escaping like the spirit leaving itʼs body.

Rise Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Hussein Chalayan

The collection consists of organza fitted dresses and tops with light layers of floating shells. The top layers are like the alter egos of the garments beneath, floating above them as if they are about to leave but never completely going, like a spirit reluctant to escape the body. Dresses in some cases look like they are being dragged up by one shoulder, as to be lifted to the heavens, leaving lace undergarments behind to simultaneously evoke a gap between comfortable domestic settings and a sense of escapism.

Body conscious dresses, jackets and coats appear as if they are about to burst open and produce new incarnations of themselves – representing an anticipation of change but remaining frozen in time.

Rise Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Hussein Chalayan

Prints and Jacquards on dresses and trousers are inspired by the idea of the body becoming an electric current, in some cases they are floating away, at other times they are used in more structured tailoring fabrics which encapsulate the body.

The collection also features peeling wall prints in 3D textures on dresses and trousers to comment on an urban setting where information is beginning to escape, drawing parallels with garments caught in mid exodus as seen in rest of the collection.

Colors of the collection this season range from oxblood red and pinkberry to airforce blue and olive green.

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Designed in Hackney: laser dresses by Hussein Chalayan for Swarovski

laser dress by Hussein Chalayan

Designed in Hackney: we conclude our week of fashion design from Hackney with Hussein Chayalan and his dresses that emit laser beams. 

laser dress by Hussein Chalayan

The laser dresses for Swarovski were the finale to Chayalan’s Spring Summer 2008 collection, called Readings, and were inspired by ancient sun worship and contemporary celebrity status.

laser dress by Hussein Chalayan

Hundreds of moving lasers were embedded in the clothing, engineered and programmed by Moritz Waldemeyer, together with crystals that refracted the rays of red light.

laser dress by Hussein Chalayan

These images are from a movie by Nick Knight. Watch the movie here.

laser dress by Hussein Chalayan

Chalayan’s studio is in the south of Hackney – see all our stories about his work here and see the studio’s latest collection at www.chalayan.com.

laser dress by Hussein Chalayan


Movie: Hussein Chalayan on working in London

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In this interview that Dezeen filmed with Chalayan for the Design Museum in 2009, he talks about his relationship with London and the way the city has influenced his work. Watch this movie on Dezeen Screen »


Designed in Hackney map:

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Key:

Blue = designers
Red = architects
Yellow = brands

See a larger version of this map

Designed in Hackney is a Dezeen initiative to showcase world-class architecture and design created in the borough, which is one of the five host boroughs for the London 2012 Olympic Games as well as being home to Dezeen’s offices. We’ll publish buildings, interiors and objects that have been designed in Hackney each day until the games this summer.

More information and details of how to get involved can be found at www.designedinhackney.com.

Interview with Hussein Chalayan

Dezeen Hussein Chalayan

We’re continuing to upload all our videos to Dezeen Screen, including this interview we did with fashion designer Hussein Chalayan in 2009.

B-side by Hussein Chalayan at Spring Projects

B-side by Hussein Chalayan at Spring Projects

Fashion designer Hussein Chalayan presents work including these moulds used to make his Inertia series of dresses (see our earlier story) at Spring Projects in London.

B-side by Hussein Chalayan at Spring Projects

The show includes sculptures, films and animations by Chalayan.

B-side by Hussein Chalayan at Spring Projects

It focusses on the Inertia project that resulted in his Spring Summer 2009 collection of tight dresses with foam shapes protruding from the backs, as well as his Anaesthetics series of eleven films about the violence involved in processes we find normal, like air travel and the production of processed food.

B-side by Hussein Chalayan at Spring Projects

Called B-Side, the exhibition concludes tomorrow.

B-side by Hussein Chalayan at Spring Projects

See all our stories about Chalayan »

The following information is from Spring Projects:


B-SIDE
Hussein Chalayan

17th September to 23rd October 2010

This autumn, Spring Projects presents B-side, an exhibition of work by Hussein Chalayan. From pieces that are being shown for the very first time, to others that are represented in exciting new ways, B-side will showcase Chalayan’s explorations into the body, movement and voyeurism and highlight his fascination with form and process.

B-side by Hussein Chalayan at Spring Projects

While Hussein Chalayan is known first and foremost as a designer of radical fashion, investing his clothing with ideas and narratives – speed, displacement, cultural identity and genetics are favourite themes – he has also created a significant body of art works which are collected internationally. In B-side, we see Chalayan as sculptor, film-maker and animator. The exhibition rounds up two discrete projects Anaesthetics and Inertia. Though independent works, together they create a coherent articulation of Chalayan’s key themes.

Chalayan’s films allow him to animate his own designs and work with movement, narrative and sound. (Music has always been an important part of his fashion shows, with soundtracks provided by a range of musical choices from a live Bulgarian choir to songs by Antony and the Johnsons to Hussein himself playing electric guitar.) He describes Anaesthetics as a “film sketch book”.

B-side by Hussein Chalayan at Spring Projects

It consists of 11 “chapters”, each based on what Chalayan calls “institutions which codify behaviour in order to conceal violence”. If that sounds extreme, he is referring to situations we find normal – the strange conditions of air travel where artificial air and entertainment keep us subdued; the aggressive way that much refined food is prepared.

B-side by Hussein Chalayan at Spring Projects

While the film will be shown in its entirety, Chalayan has created lightboxes that isolate imagery from the film, with three dimensional objects. These will be displayed for the first time.

B-side by Hussein Chalayan at Spring Projects

Inertia was the name of Chalayan’s Spring Summer 2009 collection, in which the showstoppers were body hugging dresses with dramatic protruding backs created in rubber foam and finished with a liquid sheen. A snapshot of speed and the moment of collision, they added to his inventory of dresses as narrative objects. Previous examples include breakable dresses formed in resin and others that translated into pieces of furniture.

B-side by Hussein Chalayan at Spring Projects

In B-side, he has chosen to display the moulds, which offer a fascinating insight into the creation of the work. “The moulds are really beautiful in their own right,” says Chalayan. “But showing them is about process and the in-between moments. I always talk about movement and animation in my work, but this instead is the monumentalisation of the frozen moment. A freeze frame.”

B-side by Hussein Chalayan at Spring Projects

Hussein Chalayan was born in Cyprus in 1970, but has lived in England since the age of 12. He graduated from Central Saint Martins in 1993, and received instant recognition for his graduate collection, “The Tangent Flows.” The pieces – they had been covered in iron filings and buried in his back garden – set the tone for an illustrious career as a fashion designer and artist. His innovative and challenging work has determinedly blurred the boundaries between fashion and art. “The exciting thing about Hussein Chalayan is the way he refuses to let himself be claimed as the territory of any one tribe. He is part of the fashion world, but equally at home with design, art and architecture,” says Deyan Sudjic, director of the London Design Museum. Combining a fascination with culture, technology, science, geography and the human body, Chalayan’s alternative approach has made him one of the most exciting artists and designers of his generation.

B-side by Hussein Chalayan at Spring Projects

Spring Projects is a contemporary custom-built gallery space situated in Kentish Town, London, which opened in February, 2008. Under the direction of Andree Cooke, the gallery has received phenomenal critical acclaim and media attention as a space that seeks out work which takes a broad cultural perspective and an interest in the cross-pollination between creative fields, work that is risk-taking and experimental in its approach.“I think there is a special energy in London’s smaller centres, like Kentish Town, which is emerging as a cultural enclave,” says Chalayan. “There are very few spaces in Britain which are interested in the fluid relationship between art and design. Spring Projects is one of them, actively promoting and respecting work which falls between different disciplines.”


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Podcast interview: Hussein Chalayan at the Design Museum

hussein-chalayan-interview-5.jpg

Dezeen podcast: in this podcast for the Design Museum in London journalist Caroline Roux interviews fashion designer Hussein Chalayan about a retrospective exhibition of his work at the museum. (more…)