Clothes printed with artist Richard Woods’ woodgrain graphics featured in this week’s Spring Summer 2014 show by London fashion studio Sibling.
Woods‘ signature timber-like designs patterned Sibling‘s garments and were echoed on the wall at the start of the catwalk.
The collection also included knitted sportswear, comprising panels of circular links and diamond lattices used to make shorts, three-quarter-length trousers and deep V-necks.
Thick black seams, collars, cuffs and hems created outlines around sections coloured in saturated shades of pink, purple, blue and green, taken from the 1961 movie West Side Story.
The use of line was meant to reference the title sequence of West Side Story, designed by American graphic designer Saul Bass who was recently honoured with an animated Google doodle. “Bass is the king of creating narrative through the sparse use of lines,” said Sibling.
One fine-knit pink jumper, with black bands across the shoulders and around the tops of dropped sleeves, billowed around the hips and wrists.
Blue leopard print was used for a bomber jacket and shorts in one outfit, then for an unbuttoned sleeveless jacket and cropped trousers in the next.
Various shades of denim were worn over shirts and shorts, which were printed with female figures or fists grasping jagged arrows.
Towards the end of the show, blue tracksuits emblazoned with stars depicted an “S” on the back of a hooded top and the front of a sleeveless sweatshirt.
Unusually, the designers encouraged models to smile as they paraded the attire during London Collections: Men, the city’s menswear-only fashion event, earlier this week.
Sibling’s mens collection last season included oversized knitted accessories and their Autumn Winter 2013 womenswear show featured colourful crocheted flowers.
Earlier this year, Richard Woods collaborated with designer Sebastian Wrong to create a collection of chairs that wouldn’t seem out of place in a cartoon.
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Sibling provided us with the following information:
East Side Story – Sibling Spring Summer 2014
West Side Story becomes East Side Story for Sibling this season bringing the tale of angry American youth closer to home.
“Finger clicks, high kicks, yet never feminizing men,” were just some of the messages taken on board from the musical by Sibling, AKA Joe Bates, Cozette McCreery and Sid Bryan. Saul Bass’ iconic film titles also inspired the graphic use of line in the collection.
“One of the key words for us this season is ‘graphic’,” explain Sibling. “The nature of knit, its texture, softness and drape – we wanted to bring hard lines into it. Saul Bass is the king of creating narrative through the sparse use of lines. Then there is the idea of the youthful male, the idea of young men setting themselves into tribes and having dress codes as tribes. Whether that is a motorcycle gang, a street gang – their dress is their literal badge of honour.”
There is a collaboration with the artist Richard Woods that also emphasises the use of graphics in the collection, with his signature woodprint.
A nod to American sportswear is given a British domestic spin – or rather knit. And for the first time Sibling unveil their denim pieces made on the model of traditional American military apparel.
The global message of American youth culture also finds it’s expression in the influence of Bruce Davidson’s photographs on the collection. In particular the blown-up embroidered motifs from denim gang jackets, WW2 airplane nose art and the scrawled graffiti prints that are peppered throughout.
At times utilizing the stiff plastic strings that go to make Scoobie friendship bracelets, new, lightweight woven knits incorporate their structural form. This is also a nod to the Ndebele tribe’s distinct colourful and graphic style of decoration.
And much of the colouring of the collection has a debt to them as well as to the cinematographer Daniel L Fapp’s colour saturation of West Side Story: Shark Blue, lilac, lime, Jet Blue and mint green.
This Spring-Summer collection marks the fifth anniversary of Sibling’s men’s knitwear line.
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