From Here To There: Alec Soth’s America

Large-format photography of contemporary Americana in Alec Soth’s retrospective
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Likening his process to “web surfing in the real world,” photographer Alec Soth spent the past 15 years traversing the U.S. with an 8×10 field camera, quietly composing narratives of subjects he finds on his travels. While projects have taken the Twin Cities native down the Mississippi, to Bogota and back across the vast Midwest, Soth’s career retrospective “From Here To There: Alec Soth’s America” falls closer to home at Minneapolis’ Walker Art Center.

The photographer’s vision of the U.S. is a lonely portrait of the American road. Using a free-associative method, Soth links the runaways and vagabonds he often depicts by allowing one person’s story to lead to the next, in a style similar to Robert Frank and William Eggleston.

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Stylistically, Soth’s use of the large-format camera captures exquisite details, documenting each of his subjects down to tattoos and paint-splattered clothes. The cumbersome camera takes time to set up, but arguably its this time he spends with each person that makes for the disarming intimacy of each image. While the feeling of displacement runs throughout the survey of his work, it’s clear he has given each of his subjects a home among each other.

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“From Here To There: Alec Soth’s America” includes new works as well as previous projects and is up through through 16 January 2011.

Also on Cool Hunting: Fashion Magazine by Alec Soth


Nature Intérieure by Matali Crasset

French designer Matali Crasset has designed a set of carafes and glasses for tasting olive oil at an exhibition inside a former olive oil-mill in La Valette-du-Var, France. (more…)

David Starks All-Paper Pop-Up Shop

Maybe it’s our thawing out now that summer’s here or we’re just mellowing with age (though that would mean uncomfortably rapidly), but it was a nice thing, starting off yesterday on a positive note. So why not do it again? We turn to our pal and brilliant event designer David Stark, whose new book, aptly titled David Stark Design just came out. To help celebrate its launch, he recently talked the Broadway and 62nd Street West Elm into letting him take over a portion of their store to build a pop-up shop/installation (might have helped that he handled the store’s launch back in March). The pop-up looked a bit like a traditional flower shop, until you took a closer look, seeing that almost every item in the store was made out of paper. “Everything from the flowers and plants, to the gardening tools were created out of paper and made by us. Even the walls and awning of the store were paper.” If you weren’t fortunate enough to catch it, Stark has put up loads of photos on his blog, as well as this video, showing just a bit of the insane amount of work this took to pull off:

New Career Opportunities Daily: The best jobs in media.

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On the Ground at the Rem Koolhaas/OMA Book Exhibition

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Following up on our story from a couple of weeks back about the Architectural Association School launching a very impressive retrospective of Rem Koolhaas‘ and his Office for Metropolitan Architecture‘s collection of books, the Guardian‘s Justin McGuirk hit the exhibition up and filed this great report on what there is to see. When we originally linked up the show, we assumed it would just be, well, interesting and pleasant; a nice look at what the starchitect and those at his firm find interesting and wanted to collect and synthesize into bounded form. Instead, and to quickly paraphrase, McGuirk sees the whole exhibition, all 400 volumes of it, as something of look inside Koolhaas’ brain. It’s a gigantic, somewhat manic collection of bits and pieces, showing flashes of big egos, research-above-all, wastefulness, and a weird revery and disrespect for the book format. It’s an interesting read and if you happen to be in London while the show is on, should provide you with all the encouragement you need to hop over to go check it out. Here’s our favorite part:

As the years go by, the books get stranger. There’s the Wired Dictionary, an inventory of all the words published in Wired magazine, one of the by-products of OMA’s guest editorship in 2001. There’s a book called PradaVomit, a mystifying booklet that is one of the many products of Koolhaas’s tenure as Prada’s court architect and consultant. “Even vomit has some content,” says one collaborator in a transcript pinned to the wall; and Koolhaas is probably the only architect to have designed the spring/summer “look book” for a fashion label. Precisely through these book-shaped investigations Koolhaas has blurred the edges of architecture, taking it into fashion, consultancy, journalism and cultural criticism.

New Career Opportunities Daily: The best jobs in media.

Viktor Rolf Retrospective Dolls

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Petite in scale, though hardly diminutive in concept and artistry, Dutch design duo Viktor & Rolf‘s retrospective spans 17 years of innovative and boundary-pushing fashion at Antwerp’s Studio Job Gallery.

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The exhibit, comprised of more than 30 dolls—one doll to represent each collection they’ve done to date since their idiosyncratic brand’s formation in 1993—epitomizes Viktor Horsting and Rolf Shoeren’s eccentric, often quirky regard for fashion design, the notion of wearable clothing versus wearable art and its extension beyond the human form.

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The Lilliputian examples include some of the designers’ most recognizable pieces to date, from a sensational all-white gown from the duo’s first haute couture collection (Spring/Summer 1998) to a full-body “Russian doll” cape from the Fall 199 collection (both pictured above), as well as an exquisite replica of the red quilted “duvet-and-pillow” coatdress from their much-publicized Fall/Winter 2005 collection.

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In 2008, the London’s Barbican Centre exhibited a retrospective of Viktor & Rolf’s work, which also included a smaller, earlier collection of dolls modeling their clothes. Both exhibitions further prove the duo’s mastery of miniature costumes.

The show runs through 16 July 2010. See more images, including full-size versions of those pictured, after the jump.

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Space Age Lights

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The second half of the 20th Century saw design attempting to unite the tension between the function and wonder of daily objects. A new exhibit, “Space Age Lights,” which opened today at La Triennale di Milano Design Museum, shows how lamps and lighting in particular have helped solve this conundrum.

With a collection of often anonymous and never-before-seen lamps, borrowed from individuals who gathered this eye-catching series of objects both in Europe and the U.S., the show offers a rare opportunity to study even the fringes of the era. While technically the Space Age goes from the late ’60s to the early ’70s, its influence extends to various related styles that have developed over the entire century.

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Curator Gianluca Sgalippa created an exhibit based on meticulous research comparing each piece with paintings, sculptures, movies and graphics that date back to Futurism, Constructivism and Machinism, including science fiction and fashion icons such as André Courrèges and Pierre Cardin.

The display (conceived by Salvo Bonura) makes the upshot of his exploration clear, as does the show’s subtitle, “Between Pop and the Avant-Garde”—these objects always balance edginess with mass appeal.

The accompanying rich catalogue, in Italian and English, compares these masterpieces from the ’60s to the ’70s with the work of many great (though obscure) authors. “Space Age Lights” runs through 5 September 2010. See more images in the gallery below.


Poetic License: Deliberate Deviations from Normally Applicable Rules and Practices

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Once again Moss, NYC’s highly revered design destination, opened one of the most important openings during ICFF, called “Poetic License,” to much frenzied fanfare this weekend. Despite considerable downsizing over the past two years—the company shuttered both of its West Coast operations and its joint-venture restaurant, and gave over its previous gallery space to lighting producer Flos—Moss managed to pack more talent into a single room than seemingly possible. Billed as a “gallery-wide celebration of rule breaking, envelope pushing and taking chances,” Poetic License offers work in a multitude of forms and mediums, including for the first time the representation of true two-dimensional “art” in collaboration with independent curators Thea Westreich and Ethan Wagner. (Pictured above, the Koons-esque Chippensteel Chair by Oskar Zieta.)

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The ensemble certainly makes for some interesting comparisons. The techno wizardry of Starck’s pre-production Light Photon OLED lamp for Flos, for instance, doesn’t hold a candle to the lyrical simplicity of Finn Magee’s Flat Light. Similarly, a series of grotesque bowls by the Campana brothers, while attention-grabbing, aren’t nearly as compelling as the considered architectural facade-cum-trays by Michele de Lucchi (above). While proprietor Murray Moss always has an uncanny knack for pairing disparate styles, at times the juxtaposition of such varied work on the same stage feels almost schizophrenic. Then again, it is his name on the window and he’s allowed some poetic license of his own.

Poetic License runs through 26 June 2010. Check out a slideshow of installation shots below.


Refuge, Five Cities

by Alexandra Polier

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Known for beautifully raw images of the modern world, Bas Princen’s exhibit “Refuge, Five Cities” currently on display at the Storefront for Art and Architecture shows a series of rare architectural finds in the Middle East. A trained architect, Princen uses photography not only to capture a sense of space but also as a way of subtly discussing current problems occurring within his field.

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In “Refuge,” Princen stresses the growing divide in the Middle East between those living the dream and those building it. With little or no people pictured, the images remind us of sites whose initial purpose are long forgotten and have been completely abandoned by man.

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Photographed during his travels throughout Istanbul, Beirut, Amman, Cairo and Dubai, the obscure buildings also represent the influx of refugees hired on for their cheap labor, but who in turn have created an infrastructure nightmare.

“I didn’t want to show these people as poor,” Princen said at the opening in lower Manhattan. “They are all part of a master plan, a plan labored by the poor and paid for by the rich.”

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The stunning photograph “Mokkatam Ridge (Garbage Recycling City)” (pictured at right, click for expanded image) depicts the city of 80,000 Coptic Christians who make their living recycling Cairo’s waste. This unbelievable image of houses stacked on top of one another, covered in trash—with the occasional clothesline—challenges perceptions of the alluringly burgeoning Middle East.

Priscen came to this project through the International Architecture Biennale Rotterdam, an international event of exhibitions, conferences, lectures and other activities devoted to themes in the field of architecture and urbanism. The organization is releasing an accompanying exhibition book, “Refuge. Five Cities Portfolio,” that sells from Sun Architecture for €15.

The exhibition runs through 26 June 2010.


Bespoke: The Handbuilt Bicycle

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While there’s no denying the sheer eye-candy appeal of the 21 bikes currently on display at NYC’s Museum of Art and Design, the show goes beyond the glossy frames, contoured leather seats, and clever accessories, delving into the intensive craftsmanship that drives the growing rebirth of the trade. Called “Bespoke: The Handbuilt Bicycle,” the exhibit emphasizes both the level of customization and the painstaking techniques that go into making these one-of-a-kind rides. The bikes featured in the stunning collection all represent design tailored to meet the needs of the rider’s precise specifications and interests, fitted for their exact body measurements, and carefully handcrafted by the world’s most skilled artisans.

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The outstanding roster of talent includes Jeff Jones, Dario Pegoretti, J. Peter Weigle, Sacha White (who co-curated the exhibit with entrepreneur and avid collector Michael Maharam), Mike Flanigan and Richard Sachs, with styles spanning road racing, fixed-gear, mountain, commuter, cyclocross (a type of racing bike), and even a pared-down bike built for a randonnée (a friendly, long-distance competition).

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While much of the art of frame building remains unchanged, experts constantly—if not obsessively—refine their approach with new processes and tools. Richard Sachs, who has been designing and crafting bikes for three decades, claims that of the thousands of bikes he has built, less than ten come close to perfection. He drafted his signature frame in ’78, only after factoring out construction time and cost as limitations.

In a fascinatingly candid and in-depth interview with Rapha, Sachs jokes that authentic frame-building is like Latin, nobody likes it except scholars. He also tips his hat to Sacha White, one of the only custom bike builders of a younger generation that Sachs believes will be around for good.

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A former bike messenger, Portland-based White has become well-known in the bike community for the racing, touring and commuter bicycles he produces under the name Vanilla. Recognized for their flawless construction, innovative concepts and painstakingly filed silver lugs for ultra-smooth connections, Sacha uses his extensive historical knowledge of frame-building to forge a new path for the future of customized bicycles.

As seductive as they are strong, Vanilla’s pitch-perfect color combos dress up exceptionally lightweight steel alloy tubes that boast twice the durability of the those used on the standard racing cycle.

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Of White’s bikes in the show, the two he completed this year see the craftsman experimenting with new models, a children’s utility bike and a track-racing bike dubbed Speedvagen, built with the help of Dario Pegoretti. Both incorporate some ingenuity in their design. The roadster-style tricycle’s large wheels and adjustable frame keep it looking proportional through the years, while the Speedvagen Track Machine has a built-in top tube reinforcement and hollow “tubular truss” dropouts—features that lend superior strength thanks to tricky engineering feats.

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Also a three-decade-strong master, Pegoretti (pictured above) was diagnosed with lymphoma in 2007, breaking the news with an online apology letter to his customers and friends for the slowdown in production. (He’s now back to around 300 frames a year.) In addition to collaborating with White, Pegoretti worked with fellow bespoke builder Sachs for 16 months to come up with their esteemed PegoRichie tubeset.

See images of the bicycles from Weigle, Flanigan, Jones and others in the gallery below. “Bespoke: The Handbuilt Bicycle” runs through 15 August 2010.