2013 was “a year of seminal women designers” says Design Miami director

Dezeen and MINI World Tour: in our next movie from Miami, show director Marianne Goebl discusses the trends that emerged from Design Miami 2013, including a renewed focus on female designers such as Charlotte Perriand and Maria Pergay. 

Mairanne Goebl, Design Miami director
Marianne Goebl, Design Miami director

Design Miami 2013, which took place in Miami from 4 to 8 December alongside the Art Basel Miami Beach art fair, featured a large number of vintage furniture pieces by iconic 20th-century designers.

“Design Miami’s intention is to offer a journey through design history,” Goebl explains in the movie. “At the same time we present a strong pillar of contemporary experimental work.”

8x8 Demountable House by Jean Prouve, presented by Galerie Patrick Seguin at Design Miami 2013
8×8 Démountable House by Jean Prouvé, presented by Galerie Patrick Seguin

One of the standout pieces on show this year was a one-room prefabricated house designed by French modernist architect Jean Prouvé, which was on sale for $2.5 million.

“For the first time we have a full-scale architectural structure [at the show], which Jean Prouvé designed in 1945,” Goebl explains.

Charlotte Perriand interior presented by Galerie Downtown at Design Miami 2013
Charlotte Perriand interior presented by Galerie Downtown

Prouvé was well-represented throughout the show, but so was the late architect’s frequent collaborator Charlotte Perriand.

“It’s also a year of seminal women designers,” says Goebl. “We have a solo show on Charlotte Perriand, where you can discover an interior that she designed in Paris for the Borot family.”

She continues: “We also have an interior dedicated to Maria Pergay’s furniture made from stainless steel from the 1970s.”

Maria Pergay interior, presented by Demisch Danant at Design Miami 2013
Maria Pergay interior, presented by Demisch Danant

Other pieces of vintage furniture included Soviet art deco furniture presented by Moscow’s Heritage International Art Gallery.

“For the first time an exhibitor from Russia is showing some kind of propaganda furniture that was designed in the 1930s to 1950s,” Goebl explains.

Soviet art deco furniture, presented by Heritage International Art Gallery at Design Miami 2013
Soviet art deco furniture, presented by Heritage International Art Gallery

Goebl then goes on to discuss the work of contemporary designers on show, claiming that there is a growing trend towards merging digital and analogue experiences.

Grandfather and Grandmother Clocks by Maarten Baas, presented by Carpenters Workshop Gallery at Design Miami 2013
Grandfather and Grandmother Clocks by Maarten Baas, presented by Carpenters Workshop Gallery

“There’s a field that is not categorised yet,” she says. “For example, Maarten Baas‘ Grandfather and Grandmother clocks, or the Clock Clocks by Human Since 1982.”

Clock Clock by Human Since 1982 at Design Miami 2013
Clock Clock by Human Since 1982

Goebl claims that the collectible design market has now fully recovered after a few rocky years during the recent financial crash.

“The market had been affected by the crisis in 2008 and 2009,” she says. “But since 2010 we’ve really registered a continued, healthy growth.”

Design Miami 2013 pavilion by Formlessfinder
Design Miami 2013 pavilion by Formlessfinder

We drove around Miami in our MINI Cooper S Paceman. The music in the movie is a track called Jewels by Zequals. You can listen to the full track on Dezeen Music Project.

Our MINI Paceman in Miami
Our MINI Paceman in Miami

 

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Louis Vuitton fashion collection influenced by Modernist architect Charlotte Perriand

Louis Vuitton SS14 Icones fashion collection influenced by Charlotte Perriand

The life and work of Modernist architect Charlotte Perriand is referenced in this womenswear collection by French fashion house Louis Vuitton.

Louis Vuitton SS14 Icones fashion collection influenced by Charlotte Perriand

Louis Vuitton‘s Spring Summer 2014 Icônes collection coincides with the creation of a previously unrealised beach house by Perriand during this year’s Design Miami exhibition.

Perriand’s investigations into standardisation and modular furniture led Louis Vuitton’s designers to create garments that can be matched with each other in various combinations.

Louis Vuitton SS14 Icones fashion collection influenced by Charlotte Perriand

Returning from Japan in the 1940s, the French architect wrote: “A new way of living awaited me there: work, leisure, discovery, representation. I had made up my wardrobe with interchangeable ‘modules,’ as in my investigations of standardisation: four skirts, long or short, for the lower body and sweaters, blouses and bustiers for the top, all of which combined to give me at least 16 possibilities.”

This idea also informed adaptable garments including a reversible yellow jacket with removable sleeves. The bold colours and geometric shapes of Perriand’s designs influenced the tones and prints used throughout the collection.

Louis Vuitton SS14 Icones fashion collection influenced by Charlotte Perriand

Complimentary colours such as blue and orange are used together to create high contrast, while gingham checks and earthy tones add to the 1940s aesthetic. Expandable bags are designed to be easily changed for different occasions.

Charlotte Perriand is best known for her work with fellow Modernist designers Le Corbusier and Jean Prouvé during the mid-twentieth century. Since her death in 1999, she has become more widely recognised as a designer in her own right as the result of exhibitions that featured her work, including MoMA’s Designing Modern Women.

Here’s some more information from Louis Vuitton:


Icônes Collection – Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2014

Some women leave behind an aura of radiance wherever they go. Time is their ally, the world their domain. Charlotte Perriand was one. A generous, multi-talented personality, this architect, designer, urban planner and photographer broke away from outmoded conventions, free to invent a new concept of timeless elegance. Fascinated with the “apparent simplicity” sought by the great creators, she envisioned a world in which beauty and function merge, holding forth the promise of a life infused with harmony. Pinpointing the indispensable, eradicating the superfluous, she traced the outlines of a fundamental modernity that foreshadowed the classicism of the future. Paralleling this quest, Louis Vuitton, dream-maker and inventor of a movable chic born of technical and aesthetic sophistication, offers a collection of iconic garments, pioneering a spare, timeless, dependable fashion vocabulary that adapts to every desire.

Louis Vuitton SS14 Icones fashion collection influenced by Charlotte Perriand

Like Charlotte Perriand’s colourful modular creations, each piece in the collection can be transformed to adapt to the wearer’s needs and moods. Combining elements, juxtaposing contrasts, each ensemble offers endless possibilities, resulting in a unique, modern wardrobe unfazed by fleeting trends. Delineating the silhouette of the woman whose look is “always similar but never the same,” rejecting standardisation, capturing the spirit of the times and freely developing its distinctive style, Louis Vuitton perpetuates its own legend while adding to that of one of the most inspiring women of the 20th century.

The Collection

Fresh as a breeze from the mountaintops, graphic as the stroke of an architect’s pen, the Icônes collection for summer 2014 invents a timeless feminine elegance, uniting fantasy with precision, lightness with respect for craftsmanship, and freedom with functionality.

All of the pieces were conceived to adapt to each woman’s imagination. Red gingham trousers paired with a matching blouse, delicately highlighted with a thin black lavallière, evoke the pleasures of a stroll in the sun. In a subtle allusion to Charlotte Perriand, whose creations inspired the collection, the prints and colours suggest the formal virtuosity of her designs. A common thread in the legends of Louis Vuitton and the architect, the theme of travel permeates the story behind these icons. The sun-coloured reversible jacket with removable sleeves is ready for any weather, anywhere in the world. A leather motorcycle jacket structures the fluidity of a silk dress in exotic earth tones, while muted shades reminiscent of Japan gracefully adorn the Milaris bag.

From trench coat to swimsuit, from shorts to evening gown, each icon in the collection recounts the story of a House inspired by a creative femininity imbued with light and an adventuresome spirit.

Louis Vuitton SS14 Icones fashion collection influenced by Charlotte Perriand

Travel

To break free from everyday routine, taking off toward new horizons, with open eyes and an open mind, and then return to create the elegance of tomorrow. From Louis Vuitton to Charlotte Perriand, travel, a bridge across time and space, a dialogue of cultures, has traced the outlines of an enduring art of living.
From the dazzling brilliance of the poles to the steamy mists of tropical climes, colours, textures and materials embody the fulfilment of a shared dream. Silk lends a dress the lightness of a cloud, while leather links a trench coat to the House’s traditional craft. The exotic hide defining the ample forms of a Milaris, like the lightweight canvas of a flat expandable bag, conjures up visions of wanderings in the farthest reaches of the imaginary world. Piece by piece, this collection makes up a singular wardrobe that transforms the everyday into a journey with a unique style, a merging of beauty and function.

Louis Vuitton SS14 Icones fashion collection influenced by Charlotte Perriand

Functionality

According to Charlotte Perriand, “There is art in everything: in a movement, a vase… a jewel, a way of being,” and in “useful forms.” At Louis Vuitton, since the House’s founding, each creation has drawn its essence from the reality of the times, its inventive nature turning every moment into an art of living infused with harmony.

Like a joint manifesto, Icônes asserts the eminent functionality of each piece in the collection. Just like Charlotte Perriand’s colourful modular creations, each garment can be transformed to adapt to the wearer’s needs and moods. A trench coat for rain, shorts for sunny weather, a leather skirt for long, busy days, a silk gown for special occasions… But this functional chronology can be disrupted according to the whim of a moment: the modularity of each piece opens the range of possibilities that enables a personal style.

Their grace, intelligence and refinement give these icons that little something extra that transforms a piece of clothing into a symbol of elegance.

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Louis Vuitton realises unbuilt Charlotte Perriand beach house in Miami

A previously unrealised beach house designed by modernist architect Charlotte Perriand in 1934 has been constructed and furnished by French fashion house Louis Vuitton to coincide with this year’s Design Miami fair (+ slideshow).

Charlotte Perriand La Maison au bord de leau Louis Vuitton at Design Miami 2013_dezeen_1

Charlotte Perriand’s La Maison au Bord de l’Eau, or the house beside the water, has been built by Louis Vuitton using sketches and drawings almost eighty years after it was first conceived.

Charlotte Perriand La Maison au bord de leau Louis Vuitton at Design Miami 2013_dezeen_18

The project was initially conceived for a competition to design cheap holiday lodging, held by French architecture magazine L’Architecture d’Aujourd’hui.

Charlotte Perriand La Maison au bord de leau Louis Vuitton at Design Miami 2013_dezeen_17

Perriand’s design won second prize and was later reworked for wealthy vacationers, but the original scheme was never built.

Charlotte Perriand La Maison au bord de leau Louis Vuitton at Design Miami 2013_dezeen_16

Now constructed in the beach-side garden at The Raleigh Hotel on Miami’s South Beach, the small house is raised on wooden cuboids above the sand and accessed by a ramp at the back.

Charlotte Perriand La Maison au bord de leau Louis Vuitton at Design Miami 2013_dezeen_15

Two wings fronted by sliding glass doors are connected by a semi-enclosed corridor at the rear, creating a U-shaped plan.

Charlotte Perriand La Maison au bord de leau Louis Vuitton at Design Miami 2013_dezeen_14

Bedrooms containing beds designed by Perriand are located on one side, along with the bathroom. The kitchen, dining and living areas are housed in the opposite wing.

Charlotte Perriand La Maison au bord de leau Louis Vuitton at Design Miami 2013_dezeen_13

Wood clads the walls and floor, and is used for the majority of the furniture.

Charlotte Perriand La Maison au bord de leau Louis Vuitton at Design Miami 2013_dezeen_12

A central deck is covered with a fabric canopy, which drains via a hole in the centre positioned above a plant pot.

Charlotte Perriand La Maison au bord de leau Louis Vuitton at Design Miami 2013_dezeen_11

Accents of blue used for rounded lighting covers and counter tops match the corrugated roof.

Charlotte Perriand La Maison au bord de leau Louis Vuitton at Design Miami 2013_dezeen_8

The project follows Louis Vuitton’s Icônes Spring Summer 2014 fashion collection that took its influences from Perriand.

Charlotte Perriand La Maison au bord de leau Louis Vuitton at Design Miami 2013_dezeen_9

Work by the modernist designer is currently on display as part of an exhibition about how women shaped twentieth-century design, on show at the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) in New York.

Charlotte Perriand La Maison au bord de leau Louis Vuitton at Design Miami 2013_dezeen_7

At Design Miami last year, Louis Vuitton showed a collection of leather portable objects including pieces by designers Fernando and Humberto Campana.

Charlotte Perriand La Maison au bord de leau Louis Vuitton at Design Miami 2013_dezeen_6

Here’s some more information from Louis Vuitton:


La Maison au Bord de l’Eau, 1934

Design Miami satellite exhibition

Charlotte Perriand

Architect, designer, planner and photographer Charlotte Perriand remains an influential figure in the modern movement of the twentieth century.

Charlotte Perriand La Maison au bord de leau Louis Vuitton at Design Miami 2013_dezeen_5

With links to the avant-garde in France, Germany, Russia, Japan and Brazil, her work spans seven decades of the last century.

Charlotte Perriand La Maison au bord de leau Louis Vuitton at Design Miami 2013_dezeen_4

She left her mark on the 1920s, 30s, 40s, 50s and 60s, always working at the very top of her profession and at the cutting edge of the new. She was the first woman to work as an architect, designer and planner, opening up all these opportunities to the many women who followed her.

Charlotte Perriand La Maison au bord de leau Louis Vuitton at Design Miami 2013_dezeen_2

She played a major role in the story of design, not only in France, but also in Japan by giving direction to that country’s industrial design output before the outbreak of war in the Pacific.

Charlotte Perriand La Maison au bord de leau Louis Vuitton at Design Miami 2013_dezeen_21

As a pioneer of interior architecture alongside Le Corbusier, and trailblazer for the modern movement in furniture, she created many design masterpieces now regarded as icons.

As a close friend of, and collaborator with, painter Fernand Léger, her work is marked by the concept she called a “synthesis of the arts” (synthèse des arts) and the determination to share progress with everyone through her chosen field of creativity: the home.

Charlotte Perriand La Maison au bord de leau Louis Vuitton at Design Miami 2013_dezeen_19

A great traveller throughout her life, her thinking and work were enhanced and expanded by her travels throughout Europe, Asia, India, the Pacific and Latin America.

La Maison au Bord de l’Eau

The House first designed a clothes collection, an ephemeral reflection of Perriand’s desires, and is now producing La Maison au Bord de l’Eau for the 2013 Miami art week. This never-before-released work by the architect will be on display in South Beach December 3-8, 2013. This legendary, yet never executed, project is now a reality.

La Maison au Bord de l’Eau, first conceived in 1934 for a design contest held by L’Architecture d’Aujourd’hui magazine, was meant to introduce an economical form of holiday lodging for the mass market. This project won second prize, but was never built.

Charlotte Perriand La Maison au bord de leau Louis Vuitton at Design Miami 2013_dezeen_23

Charlotte Perriand later reworked the idea into several variations for wealthier vacationers. The fact that the project was never executed explains the lack of detailed drawings and the great variety of versions found in sketches.

Charlotte Perriand La Maison au bord de leau Louis Vuitton at Design Miami 2013_dezeen_22

Now, eight decades later, Charlotte Perriand’s studies prove quite contemporary in light of the advancements in wooden architecture. Though a certain degree of adaptation was necessary to translate the original drawings and notes into a tangible structure, the spirit of the designer was respected to the fullest.

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Dorm Room by Le Corbusier & Charlotte Perriand


Dorm Room by Le Corbusier & Charlotte Perriand

Living in graduate student housing isn’t all that glamorous… the architecture and interior design of my temporary living situation is new and clean, but lacks any semblance of taste, character, or style. The most frustrating thing is knowing that a much better solution could have been realized at the same cost or even cheaper. Also, I know I’ll get fined if I try to change anything… I would stay in school indefinitely if it meant living in a dorm room imagined by Le Corbusier and Perriand!

(via hoping for happy accidents)