News: designers Jonathan Ive and Marc Newson have collaborated with U2 frontman Bono to design and curate items for his (RED) charity auction, including a pair of solid rose gold Apple EarPods (pictured).
Apple senior vice president of design Jonathan Ive and Australian designer Marc Newson designed and selected a series of one-off or customised pieces for the (RED) Auction. The event at Sotheby’s New York on 23 November 2013 has been organised by Bono to raise money to tackle AIDS, tuberculosis and malaria.
Ive and Newson worked together to create unique products including a Leica Digital Rangefinder Camera and an aluminium desk. The pair has customised a Steinway & Sons Parlour Grand Piano and a 2012 Range Rover as well.
Also up for auction are two Damien Hirst Spin Chairs designed by Jasper Morrison, plus Dom Pérignon champagne and accessories. Highlights of items in the auction will travel to London and Hong Kong before being going on public display in New York from 18 September.
Two of the world’s foremost design pioneers, Sir Jonathan Ive, KBE and Marc Newson, CBE, have collaborated with musician and philanthropist Bono to organise a (RED) auction celebrating the very best of design and innovation to be held at Sotheby’s New York on 23 November 2013. Jony and Marc have spent the past year and a half curating the collection, which comprises objects from disciplines as diverse as space travel and lighting design to contemporary art and rare automobiles, all unified and distinguished by their excellence and innovation. Proceeds from the sale will benefit The Global Fund to fight AIDS, Tuberculosis and Malaria.
Leading the auction are two items designed in their entirety by Jony and Marc – a unique Leica Digital Rangefinder Camera, a feat of extraordinary engineering, and a unique aluminium desk produced by Neal Feay Studios. Joining these editions labelled 01/01 and personally curated by the two for the (RED) auction are: a Steinway & Sons Parlor Grand Piano and a 2012 Range Rover, both customised by Jony and Marc; a unique version of Hermès’ iconic Cavale saddle created in red leather and custom red stitching; a one-of-a-kind pair of classic Apple EarPods in solid rose gold; a Russian cosmonaut suit; a pair of Damien Hirst Spin Chairs designed by Jasper Morrison; a custom Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos 561 Clock with unique red accents created for the auction; and Dom Pérignon Œnothèque 1966 Magnum with custom red foil label, red ice bucket cooler and limited edition protective case.
Highlights from the sale will travel to London and Hong Kong in advance of the sale before the entire collection goes on public exhibition in New York beginning 18 November. Learn more about the second (RED) Auction through our Twitter hashtag #REDatSothebys. Additional highlights and details to be revealed over the next several months.
“Our three decades of research into Japanese architecture and urbanism is evident in our winning design and we greatly look forward to building the new National Stadium,” she added.
Set to replace the existing Kasumigaoka National Stadium, the new building will join Kenzo Tange’s iconic 1964 Olympic stadium in Yoyogi Park, which will function as a handball arena this time around. Zaha Hadid Architects will also work on this building, renovating the structure and adding a retractable roof.
Two other venues from the 1964 games – the Nippon Budokan and the Tokyo Metropolitan Gymnasium – will also be reused, offering venues for judo and table tennis.
Additional arenas will be constructed in downtown Tokyo in an effort to save energy and reduce the need for transport investment, while the Olympic village is proposed on Tokyo’s harbour and will be converted into housing after the games are over.
Tokyo was named as the host city for the 2020 Olympic and Paralympic games over the weekend and will follow on from Rio de Janeiro in 2016. Find out more about Rio 2016 »
The exterior of this water tower in Chile was designed by architect Mathias Klotz to ripple like a pond disturbed by gentle winds (photographs by Roland Halbe).
Located on the edge of a motorway in Rancagua, central Chile, the structure is one in a series of new water towers constructed to replace those damaged and destroyed during the 2010 earthquake.
Chilean architect Mathias Klotz was asked by water company Essbio to come up with a concept to make the towers more attractive without changing the original shapes, which have become recognisable landmarks.
An original proposal to transform the tower into a “large urchin” by surrounding it with wire was rejected due to safety concerns, so instead Klotz designed a system of metal panels that move with the wind.
“The idea was to produce a skin whose surface was altered by the wind so as to resemble the appearance of the surface of the water when the wind is changed,” explained the studio.
New lighting fixtures project out from the top of the structure, allowing the panels to reflect light after sundown.
Spain and Switzerland-based studio Kawamura-Ganjavian have scaled down their Ostrich Pillows for ad-hoc snoozing to be suitable for children aged six and over.
Originally funded on Kickstarter, the padded grey helmets are designed to make sleeping at the desk, on long car journeys or in waiting rooms more comfortable – find out more in our previous story.
The design has been modified for kids so the whole face is visible through the hole in the front, compared to just the nose and mouth on the adult model.
Patterned fabric now lines the inside, visible through the two hand holes on either side.
When we published the adult version, our commenters called it “a pickpocket’s dream” and compared it to a “garlic clove” and a “locust head”.
Ostrich Pillow hit the headlines across the globe 12 months ago and everybody was talking about it, from Perez Hilton to Stephen Fry, Jimmy Kimmel to the cast of ‘Modern Family’, Tech Crunch to the Sun, Hypebeast to Loose Women, Huffington Post to Bloomberg.
The Ostrich Pillow launch made a sensation last year when it it’s founders raised more than $200,000 in just 30 days via the amazing crowd-funded Kickstarter campaign.
The people have spoken with sales stretching across the globe, and the sleep-deprived masses have been relishing the calm in their “Ostrich Pillow moments”. Have you Instagrammed your’s yet?
We at Ostrich Pillow like to be inclusive so now with public demand telling us to think about the kids, so here we are announcing the launch of Ostrich Pillow Junior. From ages six plus, the Ostrich Pillow Junior is the perfect travelling and napping companion for kids for car journeys, study breaks and general time outs.
Beautifully designed, hand-made to perfection in Spain and supercool, this new addition is more fun, more functional and more bang for your buck.
Ostrich Pillow Junior comes with a larger opening for the face so both eyes and mouth are visible enhanced padding at the forehead and neck to give more comfort, support and ease for the younger user.
The pillow comes with two unique interior colours – Berry Snooze and Dreamy Waves and comes with a more attractive price and retails at €59, $75 and £50.
Alongside the launch of Ostrich Pillow Junior, the designers have created more colours for the adult range. As well as the original Ostrich Pillow Blue, we now offer you the choice of Mellow Yellow for those bright happy times and Sunset Siesta for those chilled out and laid back moments, solving more of your gifting dilemmas’ as the holiday season draws nearer.
Dezeen promotion: online retailer Fab is calling for designers to present their work to a panel of experts at The Conran Shop Marylebone on 19 September, during London Design Festival, for the chance to put their designs into production.
Designers are asked to bring product ideas, portfolios, drawings and prototypes to The Conran Shop in Marylebone, London, from 1 to 3pm on 19 September.
Fab specifies the designs “should be of high quality and be a functional object made from handcrafted, high-tech and/or experimental processes”.
Participants will pitch their designs to a panel, who will pick three winning designs that Fab will put into production and sell on their online store.
The jury includes:
» Marcus Fairs, Dezeen founder and editor-in-chief » Bradford Shellhammer, Fab founder and chief design officer » Jasper Conran, The Conran Shop chairman and creative director » Rolf Hay, Hay co-founder » Paul Cocksedge, designer » Casper Vissers, Moooi CEO and founder » Kristoffer Fagerström, Cristiano Pigazzini and Susanna Wahlin, Note Design Studio » John Löfgren and Jonas Pettersson, Form Us With Love » Max Fraser, design writer and the London Design Festival deputy director » Marcus Kirby, Future Maps founder » Libby Sellers, Libby Sellers Gallery » Bethan Laura Wood, designer
Interested participants should pre-register by emailing their name and country to designforus@fab.com. Find out more on Fab’s blog here.
Fab’s third Disrupting Design call out follows successful programmes in New York and Milan earlier this year and these images show winning designs presented during ICFF 2013 in New York.
Here are some more details from Fab:
London Calling! Disrupt Design with Fab – Part III
Calling all design heads, up-and-comers, and next-big-thingers — this is your shot to show us what you’ve got. Fab will be on the scene at London Design Festival for our third Disrupting Design Call Out.
Bring your prototypes, portfolios, and million-dollar ideas on September 19th for a chance to have your original design concept turned into a tangible reality.
Our expert panel will pick a handful of designers whose product will be manufactured and sold to 10+ million members worldwide on Fab. Your work should be of high quality and be a functional object made through handcrafted, high-tech, and/or experimental processes.
When: 1pm-3pm on September 19th, 2013. Where: The Conran Shop, Marylebone at 55-57 Marylebone High St.
Important terms:
» You must only submit your original product designs. All work must be your own. » By entering your product designs, you will not be releasing any intellectual property rights you may have in your designs. » Please only submit product designs that you are comfortable having disclosed to the public and possibly photographed for use on social media. » If your product design is chosen, you will be offered an opportunity to have your product manufactured and sold by Fab. » Any offers by Fab to have your product manufactured will be subject to certain terms and conditions, which will be presented to you at the time of the offer. » You are free to reject the offer, in which case Fab may choose the product design of another designer. » There is no cash value for the right or the opportunity to receive an offer from Fab.
We’re also proud to announce the winners from our last Disrupting Design competition, held at New York’s ICFF in May.
More than 100 designers from around the globe descended on the Big Apple with the hopes of turning their big idea into the next big thing on Fab. We chose nine innovative designs to produce and sell to our millions of members.
And the winners are…
Bettie Cott | Cott & Reed Free Standing Wardrobe | Canada Liu Yang | Storage Stools | China Takeshi Sawada | Animal Stools | Japan Linda Facci | Easy Life Accessories | USA Scott Klinker | Puzzle Toy | USA Louie Rigano | About Time Clock | USA Andrew Sack | Modular Furniture and Skatewax Candles | USA Joel Seigle | Brick Door Stop | USA Taylor McKenzie-Veal | Flint Table | USA
Here are more public spaces on the back of bikes: a swarm of tiny mobile parks covered in grass are being pedalled around the city of Baku this month (+ slideshow).
Designed by John Bela of design firm Rebar Group and Till Wolfer of Scandinavian collective N55, the Parkcycle Swarm project consists of four pedal-powered miniature parks.
Each one has a bike in the centre and is surrounded by a rectangular metal frame with a grassy surface. One of the parks has a tree attached to the frame and another folds up like a sun lounger.
They can be cycled to a chosen location and installed for public use. Visitors to the micro-green spaces are encouraged to take a break, have some lunch, relax and sunbathe.
The project intends to highlight new possibilities of public installations and to raise awareness of cycling, community participation and the value of green space, according to the designers.
Parkcycle Swarm will be traveling around the Azerbaijan capital city as part of arts organisation Yarat’s Public Arts Festival called Participate this month.
A joint project by N55 and Rebar Group, Parkcycle Swarm has landed for August-September 2013 at PARTICIPATE: Baku Public Art Festival 2013, produced by YARAT.
The work joins YARAT’s founder comments, “Parkcycle Swarm is a brilliant addition to the Public Art Festival, helping expand our expectations of ‘public art’ and creating a social, green space wherever its components travel. We hope to inspire artists and the public alike with our programme, so we are delighted to welcome both the Parkcycle Swarm and Rebar group’s director John Bela to give a lecture at YARAT.”
Parkcycle Swarm consists of four small mobile parks, which are being cycled through the city. Described by Rebar group as a “human-powered, open space distribution system,” Parkcycle debuted in San Francisco in 2007, offering immediate access to green space for the neighbourhoods it parked in. By bringing the project to Baku, Rebar Group aims to expand the possibilities of public sculpture whilst raising awareness of cycle-power, community participation and the importance of green space.
Works at the Baku Public Art Festival 2013 range from a giant Rubber Duck by Florentijn Hofman (Netherlands), which arrives on 5 September, to Farkhad Haqverdi’s (Azerbaijan) Yard Art initiative, which has transformed Baku’s most neglected spaces, through to a performance and installation 9th Apartment by Georgian collective Group Bouillon, which questioned post-Soviet ideas of public and private space.
Parkcycle Swarm will be followed by Florentijn Hofman’s Rubber Duck, landing in Baku 5 September.
About YARAT
Founded in 2011 by Aida Mahmudova, YARAT is a not-for-profit organisation dedicated to nurturing an understanding of contemporary art in Azerbaijan and to creating a platform for Azerbaijani art, both nationally and internationally.
Based in Baku, YARAT, (which means ‘create’ in Azerbaijani) realises its mission through an ongoing program of exhibitions, education events, and festivals. YARAT facilitates dialogue and exchange between local and international artistic networks, including foundations, galleries and museums. A series of residencies further fosters opportunities for global cultural dialogue and partnerships.
YARAT’s educational initiatives include lectures, seminars, master classes, and the Young Artist Project ARTIM (meaning ‘progress’ in Azerbaijani). ARTIM aims to encourage the next generation of Azerbaijani creative talent to seek a career in the arts and gives young practitioners the opportunity to exhibit their works in a professional context.
Founded as part of YARAT’s ongoing commitment to growing local art infrastructure, YAY Gallery is a commercial exhibition space. In line with this, YAY (meaning SHARE in Azerbaijani) shares all proceeds from sales between the artist and YARAT and supports a range of national and international artists.
News: the story of how architect Le Corbusier defaced the interior of E.1027, the seminal house designed by fellow modernist Eileen Gray, by painting sexually graphic murals over its walls is to be the subject of a movie.
Called The Price of Desire, the movie stars Irish actor Orla Brady as Gray, with Swiss actor Vincent Perez as Le Corbusier and Canadian musician Alanis Morissette as Gray’s lover Marisa Damia.
Filming is already underway at E.1027, the pioneering modernist home Gray completed at Roquebrune-Cap-Martin on the French coast in 1929 and which is still undergoing a lengthy restoration.
London furniture retailer Zeev Aram, who became a close friend of Irish-born Gray in her later years, and who owns the rights to her designs, provided furniture for the film, and visited the location last month during filming.
“A film is being made on Eileen Gray’s life,” said Aram. “It will be a proper feature film and we were invited to come and see the film site. The renovation [of the house] is not quite finished but it’s progressing.”
Gray designed and built E.1027 with her lover, Romanian architect and critic Jean Badovici – played by Italian actor Francesco Scianna in the movie – but then moved out of the house when they split up.
Badovici, an admirer of Le Corbusier, subsequently invited the Swiss-born architect to stay at the house on several occasions between 1938 and 1939.
Le Corbusier painted eight large murals both inside and outside the house, some of which contained sexual imagery. Gray’s supporters feel the architect deliberately defaced the work of his rival, but due to Le Corbusier’s greater fame, the murals have been preserved.
While Le Corbusier became the most famous and influential of the early modernists, Gray’s career was largely forgotten until after her death in 1976.
Last month Aram launched a website, www.eileengray.co.uk, dedicated to her career and designs. Aram spoke to us about his relationship with Gray in an interview we published yesterday, saying she was “disappointed she was forgotten”.
The Price of Desire is a co-production between EG Film Productions Limited and Saga Film. No release date has been announced.
“Cricklewood is a community with no public space: no town hall, no library, no square, not even a single bench,” explained the designers. “The square will take the form of a civic folly on the back of a rickshaw bicycle, housing everything necessary to create a bona fide town square, including benches, stools, a clock tower, games and signage.”
The miniature square will be installed at a number of temporary locations, including outside a DIY superstore, on a pavement near a bingo hall and a rooftop car park. It will be used to host events for the local community such as dances and film screenings.
“The project aims to show what public space can do for a community, and how even these scraps of land can be used to create a sense of place,” said the designers.
When the town square is fully installed it covers 10 metres squared. The mobile folly including the bicycle is 1.22 metres wide and 2.8 metres long. It rises to 3.2 metres in height.
It has a custom-made five-wheeled base with 12 millimetre plywood covering, faux-brick cladding and a hand-made clock. Inside, there is a collection of furniture including umbrellas, benches, tables and chairs.
“The structure is both a practical solution – a vehicle to move the kit around – and a folly, providing a civic backdrop, helping to frame the spaces,” said designer Kieren Jones. “I hope this playful solution can be the town hall that Cricklewood never had.”
Cricklewood Town Square will be travelling around north London until 28 September. It will also be exhibited at the RIBA Forgotten Spaces exhibition at Somerset House in London, which runs from 4 October to 10 November 2013.
Spacemakers produce the world’s first mobile town square
Spacemakers, the civic design agency behind the successful transformation of Brixton Village market, has enlisted Studio Hato and Studio Kieren Jones to create the world’s first mobile town square. Constructed from a clever kit of parts, the innovative town square will travel by bike and move across north London from 31 August to 28 September, inhabiting patches of disused land and turning them into vibrant public spaces for all.
Cricklewood, north west London, has an intriguing history but little civic amenities left to show for its heritage – not only is there no town hall or library, there’s not even a single public bench. Now the team that created the cult Brixton Village renaissance are turning their attentions north, seeking to highlight the dire lack of public space in Cricklewood via their ingenious mobile town square.
Designed and built by Studio Kieren Jones, the mobile town square will emerge in a series of forgotten spaces: from an unloved patch of grass next to B&Q, to an empty pavement outside a bingo hall, and even a rooftop car park. The square will take the form of a civic folly on the back of a rickshaw bicycle, housing everything necessary to create a bona fide town square, including benches, stools, a clocktower, games and signage.
To bring the Capital’s newest public space to life Londoners are invited to join in, with a dynamic programme of events running throughout the installation, from dog shows and chess championships, to tea dances and debates. Many of the events play on Cricklewood’s little known past, with film screenings on a car park roof referencing the area’s long lost film studios, and a DIY library where locals can read books by the town’s famous literary progeny.
Designer Kieren Jones explains: “In response to the relative lack of civic space in Cricklewood, I have created a miniature and mobile town hall, which will enable the activation of places and spaces within the town centre that have been previously underused. The structure will also house a set of bespoke furniture, using local suppliers, that can be flexibly deployed. The clock tower is a reference to the Smiths clock factory that used to exist in Cricklewood, and to the decorative clock that used to exist on Anson Road, but which was sold for scrap during the war.
The structure is both a practical solution – a vehicle to move the kit around – and a folly, providing a civic backdrop, helping to frame the spaces. Cricklewood has a thriving community, but no space for this community to exist. In a way, I hope this playful solution can be the town hall that Cricklewood never had.”
The fully installed space will be up to 10 metres squared, the mobile folly including the bicycle is 1.22m wide x 2.8m long x 3.2m tall and made from a bespoke, dip-coated 5-wheeled bike base, a steel frame, with 12mm plywood covering, faux-brick cladding (polyurethane, resin and brick dust) and a hand-made clock. The square’s furniture is made from a welded steel base, dip-coated in Cricklewood by local car-resprayers and finished with locally sourced, reclaimed wood.
Studio Hato were tasked with creating the signage and graphics for the square. Their solution was to come up with a DIY sign-making workshop, where local people could use stencils to create their own signs, and set their own rules, for the space.
A unique font, based on the standard British ‘transport’ font used on street signs across the country, has been created, and will be applied using stencils to pre-cut, temporary boards, with marker pens in official signage colours: blue, red, green and brown. Wayfinding signs will also be created, pointing towards the square, and re-positioned each time the square moves.
For Spacemakers it’s the incidental activities which take place on the structure which will be the most fascinating element of all, as project director Tom James reveals: “It’s these unplanned elements that will really generate the social life of these squares, attracting passers by. Our project is all about giving local people permission to sit, rest, play and meet in these spaces. This free, public space, open to everyone, is vital to making any place feel like a real community.”
James notes that the project aims to show people what’s possible, even in these scraps of land, but more than this, it aims to start a conversation. “We hope to use this project to get an idea into Cricklewood, to set a precedent that local people can use to help them work towards a permanent public space. The structure will stay in the community long-term: but just as important is the inspiration.”
Cricklewood Town Square is funded by the Mayor’s Outer London Fund, as part of a set of interventions in Cricklewood, led by Gort Scott Architects.
Cricklewood Town Square director Tom James is a writer and urbanist. His previous projects include GO, a cult fanzine about Sheffield which was named as one of Britain’s Top Ten Arts Secrets by the Observer, featured at the Venice Biennale for architecture in 2006, and is part of the V&A’s Permanent Art Collection; and Sheffield Publicity Department, an imaginary tourist board for Sheffield.
Kieren Jones is a designer and maker. His award winning work includes the Sea Chair project, a method of harnessing waste plastic in the oceans to make furniture, and the Blue Fence project: a proposal to reuse olympic fencing to create social furniture. In 2006, his ‘Flatpack Rearranged’ project, repurposing Ikea furniture, gave rise to the ‘Ikea Hacking’ subculture. Kieren leads the Materials Futures MA course at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London.
Volcanic stone walls feature a geometric pattern of copper-leaf triangles inside this restaurant and nightclub on the banks of the Seine river in Paris (+ slideshow).
Mexico City architects Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godfrey collaborated with Paris architect Nicolas Sisto to insert the Nüba nightclub on the upper level of a shopping centre and exhibition hall near Austerlizt station.
The project is inspired by Mexican architecture and materials. “Living in Mexico City for a few years, this project of Nüba brought us back home to Paris through our adopted country Mexico,” said Godfrey and Picault, who both grew up in France.
The trio shipped five tonnes of volcanic stone from Veracruz to Le Havre to build the interior then applied 300 square metres of copper leaf from Santa Clara Del Cobre across the ceiling.
These materials helped to create a dark and shadowy interior with simple undertones of brown, grey and gold, illuminated by low lights and the reflection of the copper-leaf detailing.
The tessellated wall patterns are complemented by triangular cornices. “Simple and sharp geometry is the defining aesthetic of this project, reinforced by the use of the best Mexican handcraft, a tribute to this country,” the architects added.
The space operates as a restaurant during the day, transforming into a concert hall and club at night.
A kitchen and bar area are positioned at the rear of the space, with the restaurant area off to one side. A dancing area with a raised, wooden stage and small backstage area leads out onto a large outdoor bar and terrace.
Small wooden stools are positioned along the front of the bar and grouped together with tables in the restaurant.
The Franco-Mexicans architects Emmanuel Picault, Ludwig Godefroy and Nicolas Sisto have just completed a new restaurant/club in Paris, called the Nüba. Located on the rooftops of Paris, right in the city centre, in the recently revitalised neighbourhood of gare d’ Austerlizt, the generous 1400sqm space is widely open on the river Seine.
This project is the story of a voyage.The journey of Lionel Bensemoun, owner of Le Baron (Paris, New York, London, Tokyo), with the purpose of giving a party in Mexico City made happened our first encounter with him.Living in Mexico City since a few years, this project of Nüba brought us back home to Paris, through our adopted country, Mexico.
According to the genesis of the project, we decided to flight a project from Mexico to Paris. Using Mexican references and materials, we landed a temple on top of the French capital, a revisited one, fit to host a music consecration.
Simple and sharp geometry is defining the aesthetic of the project, reinforced by the use of the best mexican handcraft, a tribute to this country.
Among all materials, the most significant we shipped were, 5 tons of volcanic stones from Veracruz to Le Havre, as well as 200 sqm of leather from Leon Guanajuato to cover the walls, and 300 sqm of Santa Clara Del Cobre copper leaf for the ceiling.
With the help of our friend and ally, architect Nicolas Sisto, we managed to gather together all the materials in Mexico and rebuild the project in Paris, on the rooftop of the cité de la mode et du design, built by architects Jakob & Macfarlane.
Restaurant during the day, and concert hall and club at night, the space is centred around a large terrace providing a fluent and festive runaround for the clients, passing from one interest spot to another, from the inner bar to the outdoor one, enjoying this way either the outdoor DJ set on the terrace, the one inside or maybe the band playing live music on the stage.
Architecture: Emmanuel Picault (Mexico), Ludwig Godefroy (Mexico), Nicolas Sisto (Paris) Conceptual team: Lionel Bensemoun, Jean Marie Tassy, Gael Personnaz, Emmanuel Picault, Ludwig Godefroy, Nicolas Sisto Industrial design: Atelier Antoine Daniel, Emmanuel Picault, Ludwig Godefroy Advisors: Helena Ich&Kar Administration in Mexico: Roberto Ayala Administration in Paris: Alice Stahl Interior finishing: Aaron Yepez, Jose Luis Madrigal Construction: Josue Caniah (JRC)
New York architecture studio Bureau V showed its debut menswear collection based on theories by German architect Gottfried Semper during New York Fashion Week.
Bureau V centred its first foray into fashion design around Semper’s nineteenth-century Stoffwechseltheorie, which describes the replication of old construction techniques when implementing new materials.
With this in mind, the studio used the performance-driven shapes of cycling shorts and fisherman’s waders and created garments in lighter, textured fabrics and a minimal palette.
“We’ve shifted the materials and tweaked the shapes to migrate some of the forms of this clothing outside of sport and into a more formal setting,” Bureau V’s Peter Zuspan told Dezeen.
Oxford shirts with mesh vents under the arms and bibbed long johns feature in the 12-piece collection, along with felt T-shirts and tweed shorts.
White and light grey tones help to emphasise the textures such as waffle cotton knit and quilted cellulose fabric, plus diverge from the overuse of black in architect’s clothes according to Zuspan.
“The original reason we chose the colours was a minor protest to architects’ (and New Yorkers’) longterm obsession with black,” he told Dezeen. “That said, we also appreciate the light colour’s ability to show off the more sculptural details in the clothing with minimal lighting.”
The studio enjoyed the speed of working on a fashion collection compared to drawn-out architecture projects.
“We’re a younger studio and one of our biggest frustrations we find with architecture is that it’s just too slow,” said Zuspan. “A fashion design project that we designed and worked on for 2-3 months was very refreshing.”
Bureau V collaborated with design platform BYCO to produce the garments, which are now for sale. The collection was first shown last Thursday at the Dillon Gallery as part of New York Fashion Week.
Other architects that have tried their hand at fashion design include Jean Nouvel, Zaha Hadid and Oscar Niemeyer, who have all previously created shoe collections.
Bureau V’s capsule collection takes as its point of departure 19th century German architect Gottfried Semper’s Stoffwechseltheorie, a historical theory that describes how forms derived from material-specific practices often shift into other materials, creating valuable lingering forms that bear no material justification.
The collection expands upon this theory from material practices to utility at large. Taking extreme performance-driven forms (such as bicycle bib shorts and fisherman’s waders), the collection shifts both the clothing’s material and its context, removing much of the utility from the work, and thereby re-contextualising material formal artefact as sculptural gesture.
The collection is presented by BYCO, a tech-platform for design, which has an ongoing project to collaborate with designers to create work outside of their respective discipline.
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