Magnetic dresses by Iris van Herpen and Jólan van der Wiel

Dutch designers Iris van Herpen and Jólan van der Wiel collaborated to grow these dresses with magnets.

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Product designer Jólan van der Wiel approached fashion designer Iris van Herpen with the idea to grow clothing using magnetic forces. To do this they manipulated a material made from iron filings mixed into resin.

Magnetic grown dresses by Iris van Herpen and Jolan van der Wiel

This composite material was added to fabric in small sections then pulled by magnets, creating a spiky texture and patterns in a similar to the way van der Wiel shaped stools at Dezeen Platform in 2011.

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“The technique still uses magnetism but with a new material that’s much more flexible and tactile, like a hairy skin that’s soft to touch,” van der Wiel told Dezeen. “The material moves with the body much better than what we’ve used previously.”

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Before creating the dresses, van der Wiel experimented with the material to achieve the optimal flexible structure and dark pearlescent colour. Van Herpen then sketched out the shapes of the designs and made the cloth bases.

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“The first dress we made was shaped like the moon,” said van Herpen. “With the second, I wanted the material to grow around the body more organically.” Each of the two garments took three weeks to construct.

Magnetic grown dresses by Iris van Herpen and Jolan van der Wiel

The dresses were shown as part of Iris van Herpen’s Autumn Winter 2013 fashion show in Paris earlier this month, where outfits were accompanied by 3D-printed shoes that look like tree roots.

Magnetic grown dresses by Iris van Herpen and Jolan van der Wiel

“The original idea was to have a dress growing live during the show through magnetism… so people could see the birth of the dress, how the dress would grow,” van Herpen said, though this proved too complex and potentially unsafe for the models.

Magnetic grown dresses by Iris van Herpen and Jolan van der Wiel

We interviewed van Herpen for our print-on-demand magazine Print Shift, during which she told us about how 3D printing could transform the fashion industry.

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Watch This: Jolan van der Wiel’s ‘Gravity Stool’

Jólan van der Wiel‘s “Gravity” stools, tables, candleholders, and bowls appear ripped from an enchanted sea floor–or are they Magic Rocks run amok? At once otherworldly and organic, these moody forms are in fact the products of the Amsterdam-based designer’s “Gravity Tool,” an innovation that earned him top honors at last year’s DMY International Design Festival Berlin. “I admire objects that show an experimental discovery, translated to a functional design,” explains van der Wiel. “It is my belief that developing new ‘tools’ is an important means of inspiration and allows new forms to take shape.” Now, just two years out of the Gerrit Rietveld Academy designLAB, he has a “Gravity stool” at London’s Design Museum, as part of the “Designs of the Year 2013” show that opens today. This short film by Miranda Stet provides a luscious look at van der Wiel’s unique process, which is something of a team effort among opposing magnetic fields, the forces of gravity, two-component plastics, and good old-fashioned elbow grease.

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Gravity candle holder by Jólan van der Wiel

Gravity candle holder by Jolan van der Wiel

Dutch designer Jólan van der Wiel has expanded his range of products shaped by magnets with this candle-holder.

Gravity candle holder by Jolan van der Wiel

The Gravity candle holder uses the same process as van der Wiel’s stools that he showcased at Dezeen Platform in September and which went on to win the [D3] Contest for young designers at imm cologne in January.

Gravity candle holder by Jolan van der Wiel

Iron filings are mixed with resin and colouring, then drawn up out of the mixing bowl by magnets.

Gravity candle holder by Jolan van der Wiel

Watch a movie showing the process and our interview with Jólan van der Wiel on Dezeen Screen.

Gravity candle holder by Jolan van der Wiel

Photographs are by Peter Lipton.

Gravity stool by Jólan van der Wiel wins [D3] Contest at imm cologne


Dezeen Wire:
designer Jólan van der Wiel has won the €3000 first prize in the [D3] Contest for young designers at trade fair imm cologne in Germany for his Gravity Stool shaped by magnets. He showed the machine used to make the pieces at Dezeen Platform in September and you can watch it in action in our movies on Dezeen Screen.

The second prize of €2000 was awarded to Lee Sanghyeok for his Listen to Your Hands Table and the third prize of €1000 went to Marc Bell & Robin Grasby for the Apollo lamp.

Read more about Jólan van der Wiel here and more about Cologne 2012 here.