Iris van Herpen exhibition at the International Centre for Lace and Fashion

Haute couture garments by Dutch fashion designer Iris van Herpen will be displayed at an exhibition of her work in Calais, France, from June.

Iris van Herpen exhibition at the International Centre for Lace and Fashion
Skeleton dress by Iris van Herpen

Considered a pioneer of 3D printing in the fashion industry, Van Herpen utilises both new technologies and hand crafting techniques to create intricate sculptural designs.

Iris van Herpen exhibition at the International Centre for Lace and Fashion
Crystallization by Iris van Herpen

A 3D-printed piece modelled on the transformation of liquid into crystal (above) and a voluminous handmade dress that references billowing smoke (top) are among the items to be shown.

Iris van Herpen exhibition at the International Centre for Lace and Fashion
Synesthesia by Iris van Herpen

Thirty pieces designed since she began her own label in 2008 will be exhibited in total, along with photographs and footage from her catwalk shows.

Iris van Herpen exhibition at the International Centre for Lace and Fashion
Chemical Crows by Iris van Herpen

The Iris van Herpen exhibition will be open from 15 June to 31 December at the International Centre for Lace and Fashion in Calais.

Iris van Herpen exhibition at the International Centre for Lace and Fashion
Escapism by Iris van Herpen

A design from Van Herpen’s Crystallize collection features on the front cover of our one-off 3D printing magazine Print Shift. We also interviewed her for a feature in the magazine.

Iris van Herpen exhibition at the International Centre for Lace and Fashion
Capriole by Iris van Herpen

She recently created a dress modelled on splashing water during a live week-long web broadcast. Photography is by Bart Oomes.

Iris van Herpen exhibition at the International Centre for Lace and Fashion
Micro by Iris van Herpen

See more designs by Iris van Herpen »
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Read on for further details from the museum:


The International Centre for Lace and Fashion of Calais consecrates a new exhibition to Iris van Herpen. At 29, this young Dutch fashion designer has largely impressed the fashion world with her futuristic sculptural costumes. Through the presentation of thirty pieces created between 2008 and 2012, the International Centre for Lace and Fashion invites the spectator to plunge into the avant-garde universe of this prodigious creator!

Iris van Herpen exhibition at the International Centre for Lace and Fashion
Mummification by Iris van Herpen

Iris van Herpen

Iris van Herpen is a young Dutch designer (born Wamel, 1984) who has made a considerable impact in the world of Haute-Couture in recent years. Following in the footsteps of Martin Margiela, Hussein Chalayan and Rei Kawakubo, her innovative, sculptural dresses represent a major contribution to the conceptual end of high fashion, deconstructing and examining the creative process and the relationship between clothes and the human form.

After training at the ArtEZ Institute of the Arts in Arnhem (Netherlands) and a passage with Alexander McQueen, Iris van Herpen set out to develop and explore her unique combination of traditional craftsmanship and technological innovation. Invited by the prestigious Chambre Syndicale de la Haute-Couture to show her first Parisian collection in July 2011, Iris van Herpen creates clothes of subtle, poetic, unsettling beauty. Their sculptural forms, enriched by the play of light, place them somewhere between Haute-Couture and contemporary art. And yet the designer does seem intent on creating designs which can be worn by everyone, capturing and reflecting the wearer’s personality and aspirations: she launched her first ready-to-wear line in March 2013.

Iris van Herpen exhibition at the International Centre for Lace and Fashion
Radiation Invasion by Iris van Herpen

Exhibition Layout

The International Centre for Lace and Fashion of Calais highlights the recent collections of Iris van Herpen through the presentation of thirty dresses and numerous photographs. The exhibition gallery is a large, minimalist plateau some seven metres tall and sixty metres in length, a majestic backdrop against which to appreciate the creations of this celebrated Dutch fashion designer, unique pieces which blur the boundaries between art, design and fashion. The gallery’s light walls and polished concrete floor will be plunged into twilight, with lights carefully placed to ensure that all eyes are drawn to the dresses on display.

These creations are arranged by date and by collection, displayed on stands so that they can be seen from all angles. These original Iris van Herpen dresses are placed in confrontation and conversation with the photographs displayed immediately opposite them. Visitors can also see the dresses in motion, with footage of van Herpen’s catwalk shows projected on the big screen in the auditorium.

The radically original forms and materials used in Iris van Herpen’s works qualify them as “wearable sculptures”. The pieces displayed here demonstrate her ability to craft complex designs which draw on a wide variety of techniques, with interweaving elements, intricate lacing and fluting. Certain parts of the body, notably the shoulders and hips, are accentuated with voluminous extensions. Some materials make recurring appearances: leather in various forms and styles, acrylics subjected to various manipulations, metal chains and plastic straps. The colour palette is deliberately muted, offset with occasional metallic effects and flashes of iridescence.

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Zap’ Ados by Bang Architectes

French studio Bang Architectes has converted a former peanut factory in Calais into a skateboarding park with a bright orange mesh facade (photos by Julien Lanoo).

Zap' Ados by Bang Architectes

In order to increase natural light inside the warehouse the architects removed concrete walls from the east and west elevations and replaced them with glazing, screened behind the layer of steel mesh.

Zap' Ados by Bang Architectes

Two new volumes project from the facade to reveal the locations of a youth centre positioned along one edge of the building and a raised platform opposite accommodating more skating tracks.

Zap' Ados by Bang Architectes

An enclosed passageway with entrances at both ends crosses the width of the building to provide a safe place for spectators to stand.

Zap' Ados by Bang Architectes

If skateparks grab your interest, check out one designed by a skateboarding champion in Germany.

Zap' Ados by Bang Architectes

Here’s the full description from the architects:


ZAP’ADOS

Create a signal in the landscape

The operation takes place along a canal in St. Pierre, which is the former industrial district of Calais. It continues the urban renewal initiated by La Cité de la Dentelle (by Moatti & Rivière Architects) located a hundred meters downstream. In this bleak urban landscape, the conversion of the existing industrial hall has to be visible.

Zap' Ados by Bang Architectes

The future facility must signal its presence and invite potential users, the young and curious, to enter. The high clearance at the front of the building offers increased visibility of the west gable from the surrounding area. This gable, which has been completely redesigned, will project a strong signal into the public space.

Zap' Ados by Bang Architectes

Reclassify the hall

The existing building is a common industrial hall with no outstanding features, consisting of a concrete structure filled with precast concrete panels and a roof of cement sheets. The hall was once a roasted peanut factory, followed by various other incarnations (including a go-kart track) before being abandoned for several years.

Zap' Ados by Bang Architectes

Prior to handing and processing it had been dilapidated, vandalised and had become structurally unsafe. The first task was to open the dark hall before curettage and structural recovery. This was achieved by removing precast concrete panels on the eastern and western facades to release through-views and bring natural light into the heart of the building.

Zap' Ados by Bang Architectes

Express the new assignment of the building

The youth centre and the skate park extends beyond the gable and form two protrusions, which clearly signifies that the building has a new purpose. One protrusion stands on the floor and emerges from the skateboarder club and youth centre, forming a point of contact between the inside and outside space. The other is cantilevered and a launch pad that overlooks the front square, featuring skaters waiting in turn before taking off.

Zap' Ados by Bang Architectes

The two prismatic volumes, like opened arms, reclassify the free space of the front square and act as an invitation to enter. The architectural expression is unified by a common envelope made of expanded metal, which turns the silhouette from a hanger into a prism protruding from a singular hybrid form.

Zap' Ados by Bang Architectes

The metal mesh allows spectators to watch activities inside and is gradually perforated from top to bottom. The mesh acts like a shutter, controling direct sunlight and the color is stricking; it is deliberately conspicuous. This colorful mesh protects the equipment as the expanded metal is very resistant and anti-graffiti. It is doubled with a curtain wall to protect users from prevailing winds and reduce any noise nuisance to nearby houses. Outside the building the front square is treated using an orange frame to draw parking spaces, which overlap the textures of the existing floor coatings.

Zap' Ados by Bang Architectes

Linking the two programs

Inside the hall the various program elements are organised longitudinally, to optimise the length of the skate tracks and provide an entrance to the youth centre along the southern facade. When entering the building, there are a series of enclosed and heated rooms installed on the right identified by emerging prism. This set is built with a light frame and placed on the existing slab, with entrances distributed along an indoor walkway.

Zap' Ados by Bang Architectes

This walkway is fully integrated into the space used for the skate park, separated using a handrail that runs its entire length. It enables “spectators” to watch the skaters safely. The long wall is covered with an acoustic fabric stretched to form large “dimples”. This absorbing surface is designed to reduce reverberated sounds caused by skateboarding on hard surfaces.

Zap' Ados by Bang Architectes

The wall is also provided with vertical windows offering views for both users of the skate park and youth centre. A sinusoid layer of large acoustic baffles is suspended from the ceiling to increase acoustic comfort for users. These technical elements offer inexpensive modifications that morph the inner space and hide the unsightly ceiling.

Zap' Ados by Bang Architectes

Create skate tracks

The modules are arranged in a strips logically oriented along the full length of the hall. On the west side a raised platform overlooks the front square. It serves as a high point: the launcher. The bowls (rare in the region) are installed at the east end of the hall to maintain space clearance. These complex curved surfaces are works of joinery and carpentry of great sophistication.

Zap' Ados by Bang Architectes

In the center of the hall is the funbox. A calm initiation zone is arranged along the indoor walkway and punctuated by modules. The modules are made of wood (not concrete) to maintain the adaptability of the skate park and the reversibility of the original allocation of the hall.

Zap' Ados by Bang Architectes

Construction system

  • Structure of the gables and volumes emerging: structural steel
  • West facade: the existing concrete columns and structural steel are “sandwiched” by painted gradually expanded aluminum on the outside wall and the curtain wall noise attenuation inside
  • Acoustic wall on the indoor street: textile glass fiber coated with PVC stretched over two layers of cotton batting and put on a sheet of extruded PVC formed.
  • Ceiling: industrial acoustic suspended baffles made out of melamine
  • Skate joinery: wood frame and covering in birch plywood from Finland coated by a clear glaze.
  • External joinery: aluminum with double glazing.
  • Roofing of emerging volumes: self-protected bitumen.

Zap' Ados by Bang Architectes

Operation’s name: ZAP’ ADOS
Location: 87 quai de Lucien L’heureux 62100 Calais
Client: Ville de Calais
Design Architects: Bang Architectes (Nicolas Gaudard and Nicolas Hugoo) Engineer: B&R ingénierie
Program: conversion of industrial hall into Skate Park and Youth Centre Floor area: 2 760 m2
Total cost: 1,5M € H.T.
Start of study: June 2010
Delivery: December 2011