Moore & Giles Leather Work Apron

A finely crafted cover for a range of artisanal jobs

MG-Apron-1.jpg

Venerable leather goods purveyor Moore & Giles sources the finest hides from around the world to find the perfect fit for each product. For their latest release, a leather work apron, Moore & Giles worked with two types of vegetable-tanned leather—gorgeously dark hides from Virginia and supple, honey-colored Tuscan skins. Using centuries-old tanning techniques, these two leathers have been traditionally constructed to hold up to the abuse inherent in bartending, wood working or, really, any other job that requires an apron.

After working with New York cocktail bar PDT on a leather-bound encyclopedia of recipes, Moore & Giles returned to have mixologist Jeff Bell give the robust apron a test behind the bar. The artisanal craftsmanship of the leather offers an appropriate parallel to Bell’s finely crafted cocktails, while the apron’s two front pockets and kangaroo-style pouch offered plenty of easy access storage.

MG-Apron-2.jpg MG-Apron-3.jpg

The leather work apron features an adjustable neck strap and two body ties, and is available in two distinct colors that age with time to develop a beautifully worn, naturally polished patina. For more information see Moore & Giles online where the apron sells for $375.


1512 Spirits: Signature Poitín

Heritage Irish potato spirit from a one-man distillery
1512-Poitin-2.jpg

Resurrecting a rare Irish spirit in the Bay Area is no easy feat, and distiller Salvatore Cimino isn’t the most likely candidate either. The third-generation distiller is of Sicilian descent, and decided to try creating the potato-based “poitín” (pot-cheen) at the behest of a friend who presented him with a heritage recipe. Having experienced some success with a duo of Prohibition-era rye whiskeys, Cimino created “Signature Poitín” as part of his one-man distilling operation 1512 Spirits. His methods bring a new meaning to the phrase “hand-crafted”, overseeing the entire process in a 700-square-foot space.

A barber by day, Cimino named the distillery 1512 after his shop, working on his spirits during off-hours. Using 95% potatoes, Cimino begins by juicing the spuds and cooking the liquid over a direct flame. He then adds hand-milled barley and cooks his mash, leaving it to ferment for three or four days. The mixture is separated by hand and double-distilled before it is proofed at 104. The process recalls the heritage of Irish farmers who would make this spirit with local materials and resources. While the Signature Poitín is high effort and low yield, Cimino is sticking to his artisanal guns.

1512-Poitin-1c.jpg

Poitín—Irish Gaelic for “small pot”—isn’t a delicate spirit. The flavor is robust, heavy on potato with floral notes thrown in between. While some will find it too raw and one-dimensional, others will appreciate the honesty of flavor that comes through, which is similar to that of a single-varietal vodka. Fans of the poitín enjoy it in a hot toddy, warm it up to expose the floral flavors or drink it neat alongside oysters. The drink is a true eau de vie—more likely to wake you up after a meal than tuck you in for bed.

The next release from 1512 Spirits will feature a rare wheat whiskey, which has been aged in ex-rye barrels. With batches that are limited to around 85 bottles, the level of craft goes well beyond single-barrel whiskeys. 1512 Spirits’ Signature Poitín can be found at select retailers and online through Cask Spirits.


Albert Zuger

Roughshod elegance marks a designer’s handmade jewelry
albert-zuger-4.jpg

In Albert Zuger‘s jewelry you can see Aphrodite taking Hephaestus’ hand; it is a heavenly marriage of beauty and the forge. The Toronto-based designer hammers out earrings, necklaces, rings and bracelets in bronze that carry an unpretentious elegance, marks of the hammer, and the spirit of the American craftsmanship.

Zuger’s involvement with jewelry began with an actual wedding—his own. As a metalworker since high school and a sculptor by trade, when he proposed to his wife, Sasha Suda, he didn’t feel it was right for them to wear rings he hadn’t made himself. What he produced, and what now rests on both of their fingers, features hundreds of layers of several steel alloys, with a lining of gold peeking out around the edge. Those who saw the ring went mad for it, and Zuger—who was leaving his metal fabrication outfit in New York for Suda’s hometown of Toronto—saw an opportunity to start a new career that combined his love of sculpture, jewelry and traditional metalwork.

albert-zuger-6.jpg

“I’ve been a metalworker since age 15,” says Zuger, who moved to Kansas City as a teenager and volunteered with historic blacksmith shop there. Meanwhile, he took every jewelry design class his high school offered and learned to weld in a metal fabrication studio before driving his 1950 Ford pickup to the Pratt Institute in Brooklyn, where he studied sculpture. After college, he opened his own metal fabrication business in an 1850s warehouse in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, fabricating elements of artists’ large-scale sculptures, ornate arch metalwork, and unique structures like a pair of giant bronze doors for an Upper East Side mansion.

albert-zuger-5b.jpg

Zuger works all of this experience into his jewelry design, citing Samuel Maloof, and the revival of the American Arts and Crafts movement in the 1950s as his inspiration. “I see myself more than anything else as a sculptor,” he says. “I wouldn’t call myself a jeweler.” Whether sculptural pieces or jewelry, the resulting golden bangles, rings and collar necklaces befit strong women from Gramercy to “Game of Thrones” (there are also shoehorns, keychains, and cufflinks for all). Their details and refinement speak to a marked sophistication, but their hand-hammered shape and construction speak to a deep connection to the process in which they were crafted.

“I’m inspired by Calder, Noguchi, Hans Hofman. It’s a cultural exploration of form and surface in a wearable sort of way,” says Zuger.

albert-zuger-2.jpg

For Zuger, the key is in the craftsmanship. “Every surface has been changed from what it started out as. It’s a transformative process that creates these objects that are both and very sculptural,” he says. “The most important thing to me is to have my hands in the stuff, to be actually making it. Having studied sculpture and making things all these years, that’s what I enjoy most. It’s all hand-hammered. I don’t have other people cast stuff. I don’t have other people do my stamping.”

With no disrespect to David Yurman or Chanel (fine, some disrespect), or even the smaller, trendy jewelry-makers—the Pamela Loves, the Philip Crangis—I believe this is what is called a labor of love.


Deflected

Brook&Lyn’s light-reflecting amulets inspired by superstitious customs
Deflection_Collection1.jpg

As a follow-up to her popular debut lineup of agate pendant necklaces and body wraps, the stark leather and mirror pieces that comprise Mimi Jung‘s quietly powerful “Deflected” collection reveal an artistic progression that’s both varied and cohesive.

Inspired by a friend’s great-grandmother who regularly hid a mirror under her blouse to ward off evil spirits, Jung wanted to create a collection based on the idea of controlling one’s own well-being through the power of deflection. Amulet necklaces constructed from folded pieces of thick saddle leather, patina-covered mirrors that hang from a twisted cotton cord over one’s breastplate and molded-leather rings call to mind a mini hand-shield fit for a superheroine.

Deflection_Collection2.jpg

Brooklyn-based Jung took the concept of self-protection one step further, telling us that she selected a circle as the central shape running through her collection because it has been a symbol of defense throughout history in various cultures. The beautifully clouded, aged mirrors come from Brooklyn as well. The artist responsible for hand-antiquing them is extremely protective of his methods, Jung explains, recalling an instance in which he nearly banned her from his studio for trying to take his picture.

Pieces range from $66-$363 and are available online at Brook&Lyn.
See the collection in this haunting video lookbook.


Rachel Craven Textiles at Heath Ceramics

Hand-finished linens in geometric stylings from an LA artisan
RachelCraven1.jpg

Textile designer Rachel Craven works out of her home in the Los Angeles suburb of Angelino Heights, a historic neighborhood that provides the perfect setting for creating her Southwestern-style, handmade printed pillows, tablecloths and linens.

Craven, who cites influences from Agnes Martin to Marimekko, grew up in New York with parents who were both painters. After studying at The School of Visual Arts and working as a fashion stylist, she moved to LA to transition back to visual art.

RachelCraven3.jpg

Now, her hand-block-printed Italian linens are being sold at the Heath Los Angeles Studio & Showroom. The geometric “Circles, Arrows and Dots” collection provides a crisp backdrop for Heath’s simple mid-century pottery.

“My Circles, Arrows and Dots collection marries my attraction to bright geometric pattern with my love for the tactile qualities of linen-combined I find the effect vibrant, comforting and subtly seductive,” says Craven. Heath Gallery Director Adam Silverman was thrilled to bring in the designer’s textiles along the classic ceramics, and “highlight a local artist whose design-focused textiles complement Heath’s dinnerware at the table.”

RachelCraven2.jpg

Craven’s textiles are also available at deKor in Echo Park and she co-organizes the Echo Park Craft Fair with Beatrice Valenzuela, a Los Angeles artist collective, which will be making an appearance Beautiful Dreamers in Brooklyn, New York later this month.

Heath Ceramics

7525 Beverly Blvd


Los Angeles, CA 90036


Gentleman Arthur Ties

A smart line of woodblock-printed neckties channeling classic American authors and innovators
Gentleman_Arthur2.jpg

Weaving a story into very stitch, Gentleman
Arthur
creates handcrafted, art deco-inspired neckties with an authorial vibe. Using an intensive labor-of-love woodblock printing process, Gentleman Arthur produces a limited run of ties imbued with aesthetically faded patterns reminiscent of
what co-founder and designer, Samuel Wagner, likens to “the worn adverts you see
painted on the side of old brick buildings; their story inexorably linked
to that material.”

Trading in the iconic accessory’s buttoned-up silk standard for a smart but rustic aesthetic, Gentleman Arthur offers a small assortment of ties that will likely appeal to the free-reeling, scholarly-minded sartorialist. From the Jack Kerouac-inspired
“Hobo” design to the geodesic pattern of the aptly titled “Buckminister” tie, each piece is infused with a unique tale that “bounces between the modern and the adventurous.” Wagner explains, “I wanted to create a project that had the mental complexity of artwork while sharing the accessibility of popular culture.”

Gentleman_Arthur1a.jpg Gentleman_Arthur1b.jpg

From the selection of the wood to the hand-sewn seams, each step of the
tie process reflects the custom care and organic imprint that distinguishes
the brand. “Some would say those are imperfections, but Arthur thinks
that it’s those remnants of the craftsman that makes the ties perfect. We
want to establish a connection between the craftsman and the wearer, and
create a sense of where products come from,” says Wagner.

Made from 100% cotton and
felt, Gentleman Arthur ties sell online for $75. Keep an eye out for their equally handsome line of pocket squares coming out next year.


Four Seasons Maui Artists Showcase

A well-curated collection of local artists and their work on view daily
4Seasons_Maui_Artists7.jpg

During a recent stay at the Four Seasons Resort at Wailea in Maui, Hawaii, we wandered through the artists showcase in the hotel’s lower lobby area. The open-air gallery rotates throughout the week, featuring six different local artists each day. It’s a great way for tourists to engage directly with the local arts community, as the artists present their work directly. Being selected to participate is considered a local honor, and the group is edited each year to keep things fresh. We were impressed with both the quality of the work (hotel lobbies don’t tend to deliver awesome art) but also with the breadth—native basket weaving, photography, sculpture, glass making, and painting. It was great to be able to speak with the artists directly about their work and process.

4Seasons_Maui_Artists8.jpg

Of the artists we met, two stood out for their creativity and innovation. They happen to be mother (Nancy Mosely) and daughter (Lisa Widell) who share the Shepards Beads studio in the middle of a Christmas tree farm on Maui, where they create work independently and collaboratively. Nancy works with fimo, which she extrudes to different shapes using a pasta machine. She works the various strands together to make tubes of kaleidoscopic patterns, which are then cut. The sliced fimo is put around beads and glazed, which Lisa then takes and makes into all types of jewelry.

4Seasons_Maui_Artists10.jpg 4Seasons_Maui_Artists11.jpg

Nancy also uses the cut fimo to make colorful “fabrics” which she then transforms into miniature aloha shirts and muu’muus, many of which feature amazingly intricate fimo flower leis with very, very small petals, each made by hand. The “Aloha” shirt sculptures are then framed in Koa shadow boxes

4Seasons_Maui_Artists4.jpg 4Seasons_Maui_Artists13.jpg

In addition to clay, Lisa also does Italian lampwork glass beadmaking, finishing her delicate products in precious stones, gold, and swarovski crystals. The jewelry is unique, handmade and bears the distinct mark of the Maui spirit. Had we seen their work in a gallery we probably wouldn’t have given it a second look, but having the opportunity to speak with them about their art and process made us fans, and we left with several pieces. Their work is also available through the Shepards Beads online shop.

4Seasons_Maui_Artists6.jpg

We also loved the photography of Cameron Nelson, a technical photographer who captures fleeting moments of ecological beauty. With a spirit of adventure, Nelson travels to global locales in search of original environments. In his extensive career photographing the islands, Nelson has recorded everything from the rugged Napali Coast and Hana’s bamboo forests to competitive surfers in the Banzai Pipeline. Nelson’s camera is equipped with waterproof housing for use when lying in wait for the perfect spray of sea foam.

4Seasons_Maui_Artists5.jpg

The artist showcase at the Four Seasons Maui runs year round, with new artists added each year. The collection celebrates local craftsmanship and the aesthetic spirit of a prized Hawaiian island.


Dose Market

Fashion, Food and more from Chicago’s River East Art Center’s monthly artisanal pop-up

Dose-Market-1.jpg

Spending what little free time you have to uncover unique, handmade products on your own around Chicago may cause you to lose your mind. Fortunately, four intrepid scavengers have decided to dig up new artisanal food, design and fashion vendors and invite between 40-50 of them each month to the indoor Dose Market.

Dosecrowd1.jpg

Dose, which launched in June 2011, takes place each month at the River East Art Center and draws hundreds of people seeking new foodstuffs (hot sauces, spices, small-batch tea, handcrafted bitters), design pieces (refurbished tables, wooden eyeglass frames, handmade bikes) and fashion (vintage handbags, ties, funky hats, scarves). But what’s most fun is hearing everyone talk about what they ate or found, or what they ate while they found something.

Doseartfully.jpg

While some of the vendors may set up a booth just one time, you can often find their things online, and many others are repeat purveyors. Look for goods from vendors like Old Town Social for charcuterie and panini; Fresh & Proper unique ties; holiday wreaths from Sprout Home; Blis maple syrup; hand-dyed silk wraps from Lydia Brockman and more. We hit Dose Market’s November installment to select a few things we think you too may be pretty geeked over—see below for our picks.

Doseblis.jpg

Bittercube Bitters

Various flavors like cherry bark vanilla, barrel-aged blood orange and Jamaican #1 (with ginger and black pepper) slow-crafted over two months to enhance your holiday cocktails.

Drift Eyewear

Chris Mantz handcrafts these handsome wood frames with a solid steel core for added strength and durability.

buckshotsunny1.jpg

Buckshot Sonny’s

Great sporting goods for the everyguy like vintage baseball mits, camo hunting jackets, beer coozies, trucker hats and more.

Shades of Grey

For the woman with perhaps slightly quirky style these unique necklaces and earrings are constructed from a combination of metals, natural materials and funky geometric hardware.

Dosespices.jpg

Spices of Lezzet

If your scouting trip to Turkey and India keeps falling through, you can hit up Spices of Lezzet for incredibly vibrant, exotic spices and seasonings that you’d be hard-pressed to find anywhere else.

Method Bicycle Company

When a Trek or Cannondale just won’t do, Method Bicycles designs and builds a custom bike using top-line components, steel frames and an exacting sense of style.

All images by Nathan Michael


Manulution

A contemporary twist on Bosnian Konjic furniture-making
Manulution4.jpg

Having survived WWII, the rise and fall of communism and the breakup of Yugoslavia, Bosnian furniture line Manulution has established an enduring legacy. Last spring, the company caused a stir at the International Contemporary Furniture Fair (ICFF), and is now launching American operations from its Washington, D.C. headquarters. With a history of handcrafted wood furniture dating back to 1927 under parent company Rukotvorine (“handcrafts” in English), the avant-garde collection promises to be a big hit for North Americans yearning for some old-world regal craftsmanship.

Manulution3.jpg

A large part of Manulution’s appeal lies in their impeccable track record. With pieces often lasting across three generations, their collection runs in stark contrast to the recent surge of self-assembled disposable furniture. The wood is responsibly sourced from local Bosnian growers, mostly comprising old trees that have ceased to bear fruit and are ready to be replaced with younger saplings. Manulution also reclaims their old furniture from previous owners for resale to discerning antique collectors to ensure that their products never end up in a landfill.

Manulution1.jpg Manulution2.jpg

The company has three distinct lines that show a range of aesthetic leanings. The traditional selection features hyper-intricate detailing on ottoman tea tables and chairs while the modern and artisanal collections err on the side of pared-down modernism. Unique to this level of craftsmanship are virtually seamless joints, which give the pieces a fluid finish. The technique draws from the Bosnian tradition of Konjic woodcarving, which is currently under consideration for UNESCO’s World Intangible Cultural Heritage List.

Manulution6.jpg Manulution7.jpg

Some of Manulution’s pieces are available at the Mondo Collection in NYC and Haute Living in Chicago. Anthropologie has just started carrying Manulution’s “wave table,” a unique dining piece that features embedded “pockets” that swivel on the table’s planar surface to hold flowers, condiments, or other dinner-time essentials.


Vandorst

Dutch designer tries his hand at travel-inspired leather goods
Vandorst1.jpg

After 18 years in the fashion industry, John van Dorst has made a foray into leather goods, debuting Vandorst in a test phase earlier this month. Van Dorst happened upon the leather accessories and diaries from his grandparents’ travels during the 1920s, which served as inspiration for the eponymous brand.

Vandorst9.jpg Vandorst10.jpg

Van Dorst quickly discovered the challenges of working with a prestige material like leather, spending a year and a half studying its finishes and nuances. Each of Vandorst’s six bags and four small pouches are created with the finest skins possible, sourced from central Europe and finished in the Netherlands’ last remaining tannery.

Vandorst7.jpg Vandorst6.jpg

Constructed in the same atelier that produces the country’s leather footwear, the pieces speak to the heritage of leatherwork in the Holland. “All this is my passion,” says Van Dorst. “I decided to make my own bags and accessories borne from a personal quest for the ideal product. The entire collection has been created in classic shapes like the briefcase, the sports bag and the tote.”

Vandorst8.jpg Vandorst3.jpg

As a nod to the travel accessories created for the wife of King George III of England, each bag is lined in royal blue. Those wishing to get their hands on a Vandorst bag will have to be patient—the line’s “launch” this month sent 15 individuals on a journey to road-test the various styles, but the collection won’t be available to the general public until next year. Van Dorst tells us that he’s been inundated by orders already, so visit the site’s contact page to get your name on the waiting list.