Amsterdam International Fashion Week: Claes Iversen

Claes Iversen’s Fall 2009 collection, “Control,” mixed couture with a range of ready-to-wear pieces, created with Iversen’s touch of artisan techniques and classic elements. “Control” is a response to the restrictions faced by the Danish-born Dutch-based designer after his Spring-Summer 2009 collection “Substantial Stain” where the start-up of production for an emerging designer was a big hurdle to overcome. The sense of confinement felt during this process became the inspiration for this follow-up collection which immediately appears dark but is embedded with shimmering details. The palette was comprised of black, grey, and purple, contrasted with skin tones. Highlights included the dresses, held together or bound at the waist and neck with black rope knotted with nautical precision. Voluptuous down-filled volumes were tailored to fit, particularly striking in the sleeveless dress, short jacket and skirt where the stitching resembled fine wire wound around the body. Oversized crystal beads reflected the light to contrast with the seeming darkness of the collection, especially wound around the upper body and mass of fabric in the spectacular finale dress. Judging from the roaring applause and standing ovation from the packed audience, it was a pretty good indication that this new collection has the potential to fly off the racks in no time.

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