Bill Cunningham New York

Documentarian Richard Press on chasing NYT’s living photography legend

billcun3.jpg

Though shooting and editing “Bill Cunningham New York” only required two years, it took filmmaker Richard Press eight years before that to convince his subject to green-light the project.

Cunningham, traversing and capturing every social milieu of New York with an excited and democratic eye, has become recognized over the decades as one of NYC’s greatest living visual historians. But his private nature and determination to remain an invisible documentarian himself has made it nearly impossible for anyone to turn the camera his way. Even after agreeing to let Press and his two colleagues make their film, there was an inherent “catch me if you can” feeling throughout the process. But, as Press noted, Cunningham’s reluctant and eventually trusting nature with his filmmakers became a part of the story itself—just as much as Cunningham’s relationship the strangers he photographs creates a vivid and telling portrait of New York City.

Here, Press talks to us about his first documentary effort and the admirable, if difficult, tenacity of his subject.

Bill Cunningham New York” will open in New York on 16 March 2011 at Film Forum for and in Los Angeles on 23 March 2011.

billcun4.jpg

What was your first introduction to Bill Cunningham?

I was freelancing at the Times as an art director and I first met Bill that way. I actually did his page for him. And my partner and husband Philip Gefter was a photo editor and wrote about photography, so he had known Bill for years.

Why did you decide to do this film?

In a certain way, the biographical facts of his life were not as interesting to me as trying to capture his spirit and that joy, and something more abstract.
So I talked to Philip and told him that we should do this together, and we dragged Bill into a conference room at the New York TImes and told him we wanted to make a movie about him, and he just laughed. He couldn’t entertain the idea. It was so ridiculous to him. He didn’t think what he did was valuable—to anybody but himself.

How did you convince him to let you do this project and follow him so closely?

We just kept talking to him about it over the years. One day I said, “Bill I’m going to be out on the street and have a camera on me.'” I got him shooting on the street and he ignored me. That was eight years ago, and it was just a day’s worth of footage in the drawer. And then about two years ago he was being given an award and he didn’t want to accept it, so I offered to cut together this footage I had and showed it, and he saw it and really liked it. I think that was the turning point. He sort of got that I got him and I understood who he was. It was a combination of that, his relationship with me and with Philip that we were able to make the movie. The short version is that we wore him down.

billcun2.jpg

When did you start shooting?

We started shooting September 2008, around Fashion Week. It was a year of shooting and then a year of editing.

Your other films are narratives. Had it occurred to you to do a documentary before?

I never thought to make a documentary. It’s just that he was such a strong character: how he lived his life, his ethics, his spirit, his obsessive dedication to his work. So in a way he is like a narrative character. I approached the movie less like a documentary and more like a narrative, with the way I structured it and the way it was edited. It felt more like early Robert Altman, sort of “Nashville”-like. There were all these eccentric characters, and at the center of the collage, there was Bill. I would say Altman was the biggest influence in how I was thinking about this movie. And I was also trying to mirror Bill’s column, which is a collage of all these different elements.

billcun1.jpg

What were some of the challenges posed when trying to film, especially on the streets of New York?

Once Bill agreed to be filmed, it wasn’t like he just gave us access. It was always a negotiation. There was no crew. It was just me, Philip and
Tony Cenicola a staff photographer at the New York Times, who had never actually shot a movie, but who Bill knew and trusted, joining me as cinematographer. The three of us would try to be as invisible as possible. I was living at the New York Times for years, waiting to have his cooperation and hanging around where he was working—we had a desk nearby—and there were months of negotiations to be able to follow him at night. And then slowly over time, he realized we weren’t going away. When he let us into his apartment, it was a miracle. No one had ever really been in his apartment, especially with a camera. And then he introduced us to his neighbors. Over time, I think he respected our doggedness and he kind of recognized himself in that. That’s how he works. He’s just constantly working and never giving up.

Would you say your filming process was a reflection of his own method?

For him being invisible is the most important thing for doing his work—that he can just stand on the street and be quick and invisible to get the shot that he wants. I tried to mimic that in the way I shot it.

How did you choose to handle the political issue of Bill and several other artists being forced out of the Carnegie Hall apartments, which occurred while you were shooting?

Continue reading…

I didn’t want to take a side. I just wanted to point it out there in the kind of most non-judgmental way. I wanted the whole movie to be a reflection of Bill, and while he obviously has his own opinions, he presents what he sees. And so the movie wasn’t an ethics thing. I have my own opinions about it, but I tried to present it as straightforwardly as possible. The Carnegie people had an opportunity to comment, but they didn’t.

How conscious was your decision to avoid any commentary on other street-style photographers?

To be honest, I didn’t give it much thought. I was really just focused on capturing what Bill does. My interest was in capturing this person, the spirit of this being and what it all means. And trying to show it as a portrait of New York City through the lens of this person.

Did he ever have any comments or thoughts about this new genre?

It never came up. But the thing about Bill, actually, is that he knows about everything. He’s so aware of everything, even beyond style and design and fashion. He’s very politically aware. He really knows what’s going on. He definitely knows that there are other people doing it, but he’s just so focused on his own work that it doesn’t concern him.

What influenced your choices for the film’s soundtrack?

It was interesting trying to figure out what the sound would be musically. I was listening to a lot of music, and one day heard a song by the Lounge Lizards and thought it was perfect for the opening I already had in mind. It had the perfect combination of urban, rhythm, quirkiness and heart, and originality and eccentricity. And then what was really interesting, when I was scoring the rest of the film, I went back to all this John Lurie music—John Lurie and the Lounge Lizards—and for whatever magical reason, it just captured New York and Bill.

As you developed this intimacy with Bill as your subject, were there any questions you found difficult to ask?

When you ask Bill a personal question, you never quite get a straight answer. We basically know all the facts of his life, where he’s from and how many siblings he had, but those kinds of biographical facts—it’s just not what he’s about for me or why I wanted to make a movie. I wasn’t interested in making a biopic but I completely appreciate there are people who say they want to know more about his family and his childhood and that’s completely valid, but that would have been a different movie.

Looking at Bill as such a straight shooter—his level of integrity is so hard to come by these days—and in a way, he’s such a genuine documentarian himself. Did you take any lessons from him as you were making this film about him?

Absolutely. It really was something that was so important for me to capture that. In terms of taking away something from knowing Bill and making the movie with him—this may sound very sentimental, but I think we all wake up everyday deciding how we’re going to live our lives, and being around Bill and seeing his ethics and the joy that he gets from his work, it was actually very instructional and inspirational to me. Spending two years with Bill making this movie really did that. You find yourself asking that question: how do you live an ethical, honest life?

Has Bill seen the film?

No. He’s never seen it. We tried to get him to see it, but he just has no interest. He’s never even listened to his online narratives, his weekly slideshows, for the Times. It just doesn’t concern him.


Christopher Kane Wins British Fashion Council/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund


Looks from Christopher Kane’s spring 2011 collection

Christopher Kane has sewn up the 2011 British Fashion Council/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund, the across-the-pond version of Anna Wintour and co.’s wildly successful initiative to boost young design talent. Now in its second year, the BFC/Vogue award provides the winner with £200,000 (at current exchange, just a few dollars over the stateside $300,000 purse) and access to industry mentors—although Kane has already found a champion in Donatella Versace, who in 2006 snapped up the Scottish-born designer’s Central Saint Martins graduate collection and later tapped him to reimagine her house’s long-shuttered diffusion line, Versus.

Also shortlisted for the award were Charlotte Olympia, E. Tautz, Jonathan Saunders, Nicholas Kirkwood, OSMAN, Peter Pilotto, and Richard Nicoll. Kane was selected as the winner based on his business plan and a presentation to a judging panel chaired by Vogue UK editor-in-chief Alexandra Shulman. “The prize enables us to implement our strategic vision for the Christopher Kane business going forward,” said Kane in a statement issued by the BFC. He has described the next two years as a particularly exciting time for his London-based company, with plans to broaden the collections without sacrificing his love for detail and embellishment. Meanwhile, his fall 2011 collection, which will hit the runway on February 21 during London Fashion Week, is bound to surprise and entrance. For Kane, “It’s always good to move out of your comfort zone each season, to learn new things and to challenge your senses.”

New Career Opportunities Daily: The best jobs in media.

Teague’s Tad Toulis Chairs IDSA 2011 Conference

introducing_toulis.jpg

We’re really proud to announce that our friend and columnist Tad Toulis of Seattle-based design consultancy, Teague, will be chairing the upcoming IDSA International Conference taking place in New Orleans this September. This year’s theme, appropriate for both hosting city and industrial design, is Community. As Toulis outlines in the IDSA Call for Papers:

Catastrophe, whether natural or manmade, creates opportunity. Five years after Katrina stormed the Louisiana coast, and three years after the credit crisis tore a hole through the global economy–industrial design, like the city of New Orleans, finds itself ready to contemplate its future again. But as in New Orleans, where the conversation has progressed from mere recovery to envisioning a better city, industrial design finds itself contemplating what “can be” not merely “what was.” For both the city and the profession one factor seems to invigorate all possibilities: the power of community.

As all of us here at Core77 know Community is an integral part of innovation and we look forward to continue our contribution to the dialogue of our community. Congratulations to Tad and we’ll see you on Bourbon Street in September!

(more…)


Glif guys, Part 4: Lessons Learned & What’s Next

In our final Glif guys interview installment, Dan Provost and Tom Gerhardt relate what they would have done differently had they to do it all over again. They also tease what’s on the horizon for them, discuss the difference between working for yourself versus working for others, and provide some advice for design students. See Part 1: Getting it Started, Part 2: Manufacturing and Part 3: Package Design and Fulfillment and learn about the original Kickstarter project that set it off!

(more…)


Kinetica Art Fair

Art and tech collide in a London exhibit devoted to the beauty of motion

kineticart10.jpg kineticart11.jpg

At the entrance of the Kinetica Art Fair a confusing installation—a wall of brightly-lit exit signs—greets visitors. The exhibition gets no less paradoxical once you enter as life-like skeletons with crow skulls gesture and click their beaks above in amazingly realistic ways (though their bodies are actually robotic arms built by Dutch artist Christiaan Zwanikken).

kineticart1.jpg kineticart2.jpg

An unusual event now in its third year, this London fair brings together kinetic, electronic, robotic, sound and light art works. Our first thought was that it’s a physical coming to life of the One Dot Zero Robotica film that we saw last year, which as it happens is also showing at Kinetica. An edgy underground atmosphere pervades the exhibition, both literally, being held in the vast basement space of the Ambika P3 gallery, and stylistically with a host of international artists who are, in the best sense, geektastic.

Robotic and kinetic works especially summon images of hours tinkering in workshops to make these extraordinary creations. For example, a robotic arm capable of drawing or, one of my favorites, the handsome Interference Machine by Norwegian artist Kristoffer Myskja—a toy that makes two glasses filled with water sing by substituting a robot for a fingertip to rub the rim of the glass.

kineticart4.jpg artkinetic4.jpg

Overall, the impression at Kinetica was a celebration of the intricate delicacy of technology, not only in robotics but also a chirping egg nest light by Tomomi Sayuda, infinitely reflected LED light works by Hans Kotter, and even in digitally-cut clothing. Skin Graph, a new fashion label, uses the 3D topographical data from our bodies, tracing the contours of our physical form to create bespoke leather clothing—in effect, a second skin.

kineticart5.jpg

Those in London can check out the show through 6 February 2011.


Emily Rothschild’s Medical Locket and Brass Pill Case

Brooch2.jpg

We’ve written about Emily Rothschild’s medical objects before including her Medical Nameplates and pill-popping carafe and glassware set and we’re excited to see that she continues to think about aesthetic and functionality issues surrounding, “personal medical experiences and the objects that shape them.” Her new rhodium-plated Medical Locket incorporates the design of her previous USB locket, keeping medical records safe and private inside the locket with a detachable USB drive. The nickel-plated drive itself can be engraved with the user’s most essential information as well. Her Brass Seven-Day Pill Cassette is a beautiful alternative to the throwaway plastic kind you can buy at the pharmacy. As Rothschild explains, “there is also irony and humor in the jewelry box-like design for our generally less than pleasant medication experiences. Can something so familiar take on a completely new place in our hearts?”

IMG_6475.JPG
IMG_6464.jpg
Engraving.jpg

(more…)


Oregon Manifest 2011 :: The Ultimate Constructor’s Design Challenge :: Core77 Exclusive

om_blog_img_top.gif
om_blog_img.gif

Imagine a new generation of sustainable transportation for city-dwellers — packaged in our favorite two-wheel vehicle, the bicycle. The Oregon Manifest design challenge is a marriage of American craft and global design thinking of the highest degree. A call for collective innovation in bicycle design, the Constructor’s Design Challenge is bringing together three creative collaborations between custom bike builders and global design houses to rethink bicycle design for a new generation. In addition to these three collaborations, there will be 35 open builder entries and five student teams who will answer the call for innovation. Over the next nine months, we’ll be tracking the progress of the three design house collaborations.

True to its mission, Oregon Manifest is itself evolving, this year laying out a secondary development path and bringing in some professional innovators — you might know them as designers — to participate. This new track pairs three of our profession’s top firms — IDEO, fuseproject and Ziba — with custom bike builders, a plan that promises to yield not only some awesome new bikes but probably a fair amount of interesting friction as concept and craft rub up on each other. This is good news for you, and us, as OM has arranged to have these teams chronicle the entire 9 month process here at Core77! Each team of design x builder will be posting diaries to a new section of our site, they’ll detail there, in words and picture, the process of creating a new generation of bicycle.

This year’s Oregon Manifest is the project’s second run, see our previous coverage here, and it has stepped up to an endeavor of international heft and scope. The inaugural edition was won by Tony Periera with a bicycle that met the standards and did so in style, but most interestingly introduced a novel integrated bicycle lock which exemplifies the innovative ideas that such a challenge encourages. The Oregon Manifest takes inspiration from Technical Trials that ran in France through the mid-century — rather than racing, bicycle makers competed in manufacturing better and better equipment, yielding breakthrough innovations such as alloy rims and cranks. Yesterday, at a kickoff event in Portland, the Oregon Manifest announced the criteria for this year’s challenge — available for download here. The key for the design/build challenge is that these bikes must complete a circuit and be actually functional. Additionally they must pass muster with an all-star line-up of bicycle wizards in the form of a judging panel which includes Rob Forbes (founder of Public Bikes and Design within Reach), Tinker Hatfield (VP of Innovation Design at Nike), Bill Strickland (Editor, Bicycling Magazine) and Joe Breeze (Founder of Breezer Bikes) — moderated by Ron Sutphin of the United Bicycle Institute.

It is this really incredible mix of elements that makes the OM so exciting for us. A grassroots operation to push innovation. In the field of bicycles. Springing from American craft manufacturing. Paired with design. Championing sustainable living.

It is actually a little much — a sugar-rush combo of every reason why we do what we do here — but we’ll keep it together, take it in small doses and cheer them on at every turn. Hope you will too.

>> Oregon Manifest
>> OM Design/Build Chronicles at Core77

Photos courtesy of PDXCROSS

(more…)


Glif guys, Part 3: Package Design & Fulfillment

In Part 3 of our Glif guys interview, designers Dan Provost and Tom Gerhardt discuss the unsexy but very necessary part of a project, the one easiest to overlook in the excitement of production: Taking care of the packaging. They also touch on the challenges of fulfillment, of actually getting the product into the consumers’ hands.

See Part 1: Getting it Started, Part 2: Manufacturing and Part 4: Lessons Learned and What’s Next or find out about the original Kickstarter project that set it off!

(more…)


Daily Obsesh – Revlon Just Bitten Lip Stain + Balm

imageEvery girl loves a good lip color, whether it’s a stand-by lip balm, a killer lipstick, or a smashing lipgloss! We at Stylehive have fallen in love with Revlon’s lip stain line – Just Bitten.


Looks like Revlon has jumped on the vampire bandwagon! Unlike other lip colors, Revlon’s new stain lasts all day and comes with a lovely, nourishing balm. In 30 seconds, you’ll have beautiful, luscious lip color all day!


From pale pinks to warm peaches to richer wine colors, these stains make an excellent addition to your make-up bag, whether for day or night!


And at only $9 a pop? You can get your perfect go-to day color and a sultry shade for a hot night out (hello Valentine€™s Day!) for less than some lipsticks!



Where to BuyDrugstore.com



Price – $8.99



WhoBrookeElisabeth was the first to add the ‘Revlon – Just Bitten Lip Stain + Balm‘ to the Hive.

Iconoscope Star Wars: Episode IV

Wayne Dorrington ha sintetizzato le scene principali de l’Episodio IV in questa illustrazione.
{Via}