Camoweave Forester

A hunting inspired coat re-issued from Eddie Bauer’s archives

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New from Eddie Bauer’s Fall line of heritage garments is the Camoweave Forester. The handsome coat pays tribute to its hunting-inspired predecessor first introduced by Eddie Bauer in 1965, using the same superior construction techniques and materials. The unique, shadow plaid pattern is woven into the fabric—rather than printing directly on top—using yarn in 14 different colors, blended together to create the distinct camouflage.

The 11-oz. wool and quilted lining deliver plenty of warmth for those days when your shell won’t do. When it comes to wet weather, it should be noted that the jacket relies only on wool’s natural, but somewhat minimal, water repellence—to preserve the fabric’s purity, the finish was left uncoated and untreated.

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For utility, the jacket features four cargo pockets on the front, and a larger, dual-entry field/game pocket on the lower back. This kangaroo pouch style pocket is often found on traditional hunting jackets for extra storage that won’t get in the way.

The Camoweave Forester dropped today at Eddie Bauer online, and follows in select stores in early November. At $399, think of it as an investment.


Waterproof Parka Shells

Seven waterproof solutions for keeping drier without the bulk

For general inclement weather, we rely on a sharp rain shell, layering it for colder months and tucking it into carry-ons, to see us through a wet day. While it’s a less bulky way to stay dry than expedition-grade wear, those that hit at the waist leave your behind unprotected from soaked bike seats or sitting on wet concrete steps—generally making for an overall soggier experience. The solution comes in the form of the parka-length shell. From those designed specifically for biking to a pink number that looks swiped from a stylish kindergardener, these seven picks will wick away the moisture without sacrificing style.

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Outlier

Constantly outdoing themselves, Outlier’s Storm King Parka, a functional garment with a great cut, uses the most technically-advanced fabric available. Supermarine Cotton, along with full sleeve ventilation and invisible pit zips helps keep you dry without the clamminess caused by “breathable” synthetics. Further intuitive design details include a wraparound storm flap on the zipper to protect chins and necks, as well as extra fabric on the front envelope pockets that help keep water out and assist with buttoning. For $650, you get top-of-the-line technology and the same trim fit, clean lines and timeless style found in all Outlier gear.

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Salvor Projects

Salvor constructs the Snow Feather Parka with eight-ounce organic cotton twill, finished with a mix of water-resistant base and white pigment. The mixture, applied by hand with a pallet knife, gets into the weave of fabric that’s actually nailed down during the intensive process. Resembling white feathers on the black twill weave-based fabric, the resulting finish is unique to each piece. Each jacket comes made-to-order for $750 from the Salvor Projects Soho store and will also be available soon via the web store.

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Athletics Far East Hooded Parka

Produced as part of Nike’s exclusive Athletics Far East collection, the three-layer Hooded Parka has essentially everything you could want in a jacket like this—unsurprisingly, it’s virtually impossible to find. The Gore-Tex shell’s fully-taped seams and laser-cut ventilation holes keep you comfortable while sheltering from the elements. In keeping with the design-minded AFE aesthetic, the details are the real focal points, here including leather accents and hidden zipper grips. We heard a selection of the limited-run parka was last seen at 21 Mercer in NYC, but Hano has it online for £330.

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Nau

Waterproof, breathable and lightweight, the street-conscious Rebound Jacket features fully-taped seams and zero flair. Made of 100%-recycled polyester fabric with just enough stretch to keep you comfortable—whether it’s on a brisk walk to work or jogging through a sudden downpour. Get it from Nau online for $340.

Patagonia

The Torrentshell Parka does the trick as an everyday rain jacket. Completely waterproof with a clean, streamlined fit that’ll work with any wardrobe, it packs into its own pocket for ultra-lightweight portability. It’s not hard to see why the Torrentshell has become Patagonia’s best-selling rain jacket. Get it online from the Patagonia online store for a relatively reasonable $150.

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Folk

Bold, daring colors don’t often show up in men’s outerwear. The Rainmac, a salmon-pink bright exception, has a removable hood and taped seams; drawstrings lend an adjustable fit. The back vents, a nice touch as well, help out on those unexpectedly warm days. Find the Rainmac for $330, alongside some more subdued designs from Folk clothing, online.

Grundens

The Grundens Parka wins for all-around best design. Heavyweight cotton twill, coated with a specially-formulated PVC coating designed to resist dirt and grime, remains flexible, even in extreme weather conditions. We like the combination of the jacket’s perfectly-toned orange hue and minimalistic silhouette too—often seen sported by stylish seniors in NYC. Available from Erik Schedin, this traditional fisherman parka sells for $215.

Contributions by Graham Hiemstra, Evan Orensten, Josh Rubin and Tim Yu


Crescent Down Works for DQM

Renowned Seattle and NYC brands team up for a classic waxed parka just in time for fall

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It’s hard to know which of the deluge of fall collaborations are worth your time and attention, but when DQM is involved we tend to take notice. Coming just two weeks after the collaborative Vans DQM General store opened, New York City’s heralded streetwear purveyor has teamed up for the second time with Crescent Down Works to release a waxed parka just in time for colder temperatures.

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Made in Pacific Northwest, the waxed cotton jacket is built to withstand the rain no matter where it’s falling. Leather reinforced buttons and custom DQM labeling accent the classically subdued design. Available in a black with an orange liner and in tan with navy, the parka runs $430. It sells exclusively at Vans DQM General in NYC and, starting this Monday 3 October 2011, online in limited numbers as well.


Tovar

Modern threads for the urban explorer in a designer’s debut line

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Los Angeles designer Terence Yeung brings extensive industry experience and subtle creativity to Tovar, a functional menswear line set to drop Spring 2012. Inspired by traveling and the jet-set era of modern explorers, Tovar aims to fit in with your everyday wardrobe no matter where you might be. The sizable first collection features everything from basic cotton tees and classic button-ups to slim cargo pants and sturdy water-repellant jackets, all designed with your suitcase in mind.

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Tovar takes basic outerwear up a notch, seamlessly blending intricate detailing with modern, streamlined cuts. The waxed cotton Ethan and Lucas styles are ruggedly slim-fitting, each donning an adjustable drawstring around the waist that is also hard to notice when not cinched. The shorter Ethan jacket sports a hide-away hood and waist-length cut while the longer Lucas coat removes the hood altogether for a more sophisticated silhouette. Heralding the early charm of Eddie Bauer, Tovar also has a traditional barn coat that is as well-suited for the fields of Ohio as the streets of London.

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In addition to the pure cotton coats, Tovar also proffers nylon water-repellent windbreakers in multiple colorways as well as a jean jacket, aptly named the James (shown here in washed denim).

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Hitting a moderate price-point with jackets set to sell for around $200, with knits and pants priced at around $100, Tovar’s debut line will be available starting mid-January 2012. . For more information check out the Tovar website.


Outlier Spring 2011

Keep dry while biking with two new editions from a favorite cycling fashion label

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Urban biking clothiers Outlier always seem to be upping their game with details that we had the chance to see first-hand when they stopped by last week to preview their new lineup for Spring 2011. This season sees a few classic styles revamped with technical refinements, as well as an instantly covetable jacket and shoes joining the collection.

The Pivotal Bomber Jacket, “a synthesis of everything Outlier,” combines a lightweight “4Season” wool with the brand’s signature pivot sleeve construction. Trimmed in superfine merino, the mid-weight outer is water-resistant, breathable, and has a handy angled arm pocket.

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Similarly a balance of technical details and style, their first foray into footwear is a minimalist waterproof sneaker in men’s and women’s sizes. The Outlier Feit Supermarines, handmade by Australian specialty shoemakers Feit, feature a double layer of French calf leather on the interior and exteriors comprised of Egyptian cotton made from only the longest fibers—hence their extreme water resistance.

A removable cork midsole helps absorb shock while riding, and a double layer of Vibram sheet rubber provides solid traction for when you hit pavement. Other bonuses include waxed cotton laces, a reflective patch on the back and a hidden pocket on the tongue (for tucking laces).

While all these cleverly-engineered details don’t come cheap, investing in the jacket ($290) and shoes ($260) will see you through many a ride.


Big Jim

Pendleton and Nike team up on an ACG jacket designed to keep out some serious cold

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For those who grew up borrowing their dad’s outerwear, the wooly warmth of this Big Jim jacket is going to feel cozily familiar. Made using dense Pendleton virgin wool, the material blocks icy chills while its “deconstructed” style means it layers well and is still lightweight enough for running around the city. Everything else about the piece—part of “Triple Black,” the latest collaboration to come from Pendleton and Nike’s outdoor division ACG—has a modern feel thanks to the ongoing partnership that combines Pendleton’s superior wool with Nike’s expertise in sportswear.

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Resulting technical details add high function, like magnetic closures on pockets and waterproof zippers, that not only protects from the elements but makes for less fussing when you’re out and about. Other details like the removable hood (cut to fit perfectly), seams and shoulder patches reinforced with ripstop nylon, a storm flap on the collar, and minimal branding make this jacket a good choice for anyone who wants a classic look without sacrificing warmth.

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While the jacket is designed for men, the cut is slim enough that it works for girls (with the sleeves rolled up). Get yours from
Nike
for $400 or
Haven
if you’re in Canada.
Zappos
also has it on sale for $280 in limited sizes.


Canada Goose Factory Tour

How an iconic Canadian parka company is taking their handmade parkas in a new direction

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Nothing quite signifies cold like the image of a bundled-up kid with arms splayed to the sides. For those who’d rather minimize the bulk and unnatural limb positions, Canada Goose is in the midst of reinventing their typically function-over-fashion parka with more street-ready style. When the brand recently invited Cool Hunting on a tour of its factory in Toronto, we went along to learn all about their iconic parkas.

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Canada Goose’s appeal rests on two pertinent facts—the jackets are made entirely on Canadian soil by Canadian hands and the quality is irrefutable—a process we saw first-hand on Canada Goose’s factory floor. Starting in the design room, cutting patterns are developed and prototypes are stored. The jackets are cut out of Canada Goose’s proprietary blend of Arctic-Tech fabric, in one of their several heritage colors. They’re then stitched by hand and filled with different combinations of goose and duck down, using an ingenious device invented by former Canada Goose owner David Reiss that measures down by volume instead of weight.

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After finishing touches, quilting and trimming with coyote fur, the jackets are packaged, and shipped all over the globe from one of Canada Goose’s eight factories. Each jacket features Canada Goose’s signature design features, implemented for function in an Arctic environment—reflective tape, coyote fur, and grab loops on the neck and shoulders. Their parkas are standard wear among everyone who has to work in extreme temperatures, from Hollywood grips who stay on set all night to the champion dog-musher Lance Mackey, whose custom-designed parka has extra water bottle pockets on the interior and an extra-large ruff.

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Their reputation for quality—as well as their luxury prices—have made the jacket something of a status symbol among those in colder climes. Along with the police officers and park rangers whom the parka was originally intended for, Canada Goose also includes club bouncers among its fans, and its street appeal spread from there. With that in mind, Canada Goose has started developing different branches for this year, including jackets by acclaimed Japanese menswear designer Yuki Matsuda (pictured below) and a new Hybridge line, which we previously featured for its distinct gender-specific insulation.

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Prices range from $400 for the Hybridge line to several thousand for the Yuki Matsuda collection. Canada Goose parkas sell online or at select locations.


Bridge & Burn

Portland, OR outerwear company designs classic hunting and camping styles for the big city

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Clothing designer Erik Prowell originally named his outerwear company La Merde. “We wanted a name that was fancy, and yet…wasn’t. Then Nordstrom refused to carry the line because of the name,” he said when we recently visited his Portland, OR studio. After a moment, he reflected, “If there hadn’t been a recession, we probably would’ve kept it.”

Now known as Bridge & Burn, Prowell’s sleek, yet warm wool coats and waxed cotton jackets are suitable for both city-dwellers and hikers alike. Bridge & Burn provides a solution to that perennial Portland quandary—where to find a decent-looking rain jacket. Prowell grew up in Bend, Oregon and was inspired by his father’s and grandfather’s camping and hunting gear. “I loved to wear my father’s Woolrich and Filson jackets and my grandfather’s old military uniforms from WWII. It’s great to see the resurgence of all the heritage brands. At the same time, I spend most of my time in the city and don’t feel a need to dress up like an outdoorsman,” Prowell said.

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Prowell has no background in the fashion industry. His schooling was in computer science, and his introduction to the business came through an avenue that most of us can relate to—making funny T-shirts with a college friend. That project, with Josh Hindson, eventually became No Star, which still bills itself as “A Funny T-Shirt Company.” After a good friend gave the pair a crash course in apparel design, they formed La Merde. But when managing their combined projects became too complicated (Prowell also runs a photography-based T-shirt business called Oh, Snap!) the two agreed to part ways and companies. The Boise-based Hindson handles No Star, while Prowell decided to take Bridge & Burn in a different direction.

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“In my mind, La Merde was a little flashier. Bridge & Burn represents my passion for clean, classic and functional design,” said the multi-talented entrepreneur, who also created the branding, shot all the photography, designed their print materials, and programmed the website. For the Fall ’10 season, he branched out from outerwear into button-ups, and Spring ’11 will see shorts for men and dresses for women.

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Prowell’s clean, laid-back live/work studio and apartment, near bustling Burnside Street, embodies his holistic approach to life and design. The bedroom, lofted above the work and studio areas, lends privacy, while tall windows let plenty of light and air into the vaulted space. Despite an apparently frenetic work schedule, Prowell remains unassuming, relaxed—and astonishingly tall. “I made a couple of jackets custom-fitted for me, and then decided to get rid of them,” he said, referring to a recent sample sale. “They were XXXL, so I didn’t think they were going to sell. But both did! Just the right people walked in.” Prowell’s success in a downtime economy is due to a distinctive vision, a determined work ethic, and maybe just a little bit of luck.

Bridge & Burn sells online, and across the country in stores such as Mini Minimarket in Brooklyn, NY; Frances May in Portland, OR (the boutique who gave Prowell his start); and Molte Cose in San Francisco, CA. For more updates on future products, check Bridge & Burn’s blog.


Highland Fall/Winter 2010

Utah natives’ debut collection introduces their own twist to classic outerwear
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If you’ve ever wondered what fashion critics mean exactly when they say clothes have “energy,” the new menswear label Highland from a trio of Utah-raised family friends might give you some idea. Drawing on their shared outdoorsy past, designer Lizzie Owens explains they not only turned to Arcteryx, seventies Patagonia and their dads’ closets but that “it involved ransacking my garage. I looked at a lot of backpacks and sleeping bags and tents—actual equipment.”

The resulting debut collection (just hitting stores like Assembly, Steven Alan and No. 44) shows hints of such a resourceful process—climbing rope will be a trademark stand-in for pull-cords and emergency blankets feature prominently—without getting too weighed down by all the clever details. (See detail shots here.) While the light touch may seem unexpected from a designer best known for her work in costumes (she’s known for outfitting MGMT, The Killers, Chairlift and others), her skillful blending of influences suggests Owens intimately knows both sides of how clothes can obscure, protect and express the wearer’s personality. Of course formal training at RISD and years at TSE designing knitwear might have something to do with it; Highland at its core is what happens when artistic interpretation meets technical capabilities.

This balance between construction and inspiration not only helps keep the clothes functional and minimal, but lends a playfulness rarely seen in menswear. Blue (inspired by ’80s skiwear), red (“something I felt guys weren’t afraid of”) and mustard (“I’m obsessed with it. It’s so beautiful.”) punctuate an otherwise mostly black and grey palette and “pop on the inside is “for guys, like a little secret.”

A boxier cut to shirting plays on an ’80s silhouette that’s recently been making a comeback. But simple plaids and checks in Japanese fabrics, cotton and wool neatly put a spin on cliched lumberjack references for a fresh look. Sweats in coveted loopwheeler fabric (made in Japan using an intensive process) are another example of Owens’ knack for integrating technical details with modern silhouettes. And waxwear pants with reinforced legs reference Carhartt’s classic carpenter pants, but with one key difference—the loop for a hammer is actually a non-functional piece of climbing rope.

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Check the Highland site for a complete list of stores or just head to Bastille to find Highland online.

All images except for top photo by James Ryang