Cool Hunting Video Presents: John Derian

We talk to the master of paper, glue and glass in this behind the scenes look at the finest découpage in NYC

We always strive to discover and document the most phenomenal people, places and things around the globe but there is something extra satisfying when we find a real gem in our own back yard of New York City. In our latest video we visited John Derian who has been making découpage housewares sinces 1989. Derian, whose production facility sits quietly tucked away on 2nd street in New York’s East Village, collects 18th century imagery, which he lovingly transforms into beautiful découpage pieces.


Sean Woolsey

Handmade furniture, pipe lamps and otherworldly art

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Quality is at the core of everything Sean Woolsey makes. From laser-cut wooden coasters and handmade furniture through to carefully crafted lighting and paintings on sheet metal, Wolsey creates pieces that effortlessly fuse form and function. Two years ago the former apparel designer left his work in the action sports industry in order to carve out a career from his craft. CH caught up with Woolsey in his Costa Mesa workshop to discuss furniture, fads and the freedom that results from owning less.

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When did you start creating?

I have been creating art for about 10 years now. However, for about seven years I owned and designed my own apparel line and then worked in the action sports industry. Both sides of my family tree contain artistic people. My father has been one of my biggest influences: he had a career in architectural art and also was a talented photographer. My latest works of art are “other-worldly” paintings done on sheet metal using patinas, paints and solvents. The resulting paintings are ethereal images reminiscent of photos of outer space from the Hubble telescope. My more recent expansion into producing furniture and lighting began about two years ago, after I constructed pieces for myself. I discovered that I enjoy doing it and that there are people who desire better quality, hand crafted furniture and accessories made in the USA.

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What was the first proper piece of furniture you made?

I made an escritoire for my girlfriend (now wife) which we still have in our house today. It is made of two-by-fours, four-by-fours, a piece of butcher block and oak casters. I recently completed a famous George Nakashima chair design known as the Conoid chair. The chair is black walnut and it took about 60 hours to make. It is absolutely beautiful. This was the first chair I ever made. It is definitely my favorite piece and I will probably own it forever.

What else have you been working on?

Right now I am working with several clients to furnish their entire workspace or house. It has been exciting developing a palette and tone that reflects the personality of the clients, and then designing and building with that in mind. There is something about creating for an entire space that is very special for me. It is a way for me to connect with other people’s subconscious.

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How did the coasters come about?

Wanting to preserve the finish on my handmade furniture, I decided I wanted to design a set of coasters. I wanted them to look cool, yet be classic and substantial enough to use proudly for years. With that in mind, I produced laser-engraved wooden coasters with a manly feel to them. They come as a set of four, each one being labeled with one of my favorite beverages: coffee, bourbon, whiskey, and scotch. I also made 50 limited-edition black walnut cases for the coasters. Each case is hand numbered and branded with my “SW” logo. The walnut makes a classy little home for the coasters to live in on your table.

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Given your furniture business, what are your thoughts on places like IKEA?

We live in a world and an age in which most consumers buy things for the moment; we exist in a disposable consumer society, where a lot of people make impulsive, trendy buys. I am subject to this as well, but consciously I have decided to try and only buy things I need and buy things of lasting value, that I may be proud to own. Right now there is a paradigm shift with some consumers consciously avoiding overseas, mass production items to searching out high-quality and locally made, sustainable objects, and luckily my customers understand this very well and support me. One of the best parts of what I do is actually interacting and developing a relationship with my customers.

Images by Braedon Flynn, Ryan Haack and Aaron Young


Curio Noir

Naturally scented candles in beautiful hand-blown glass
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The aptly named line of candles, cloth and curiosities from New Zealand-based Curio Noir ranges from the vaguely sinister Lilith Doll candles in the shape of a baby’s head to woven linen napkins with floral line art, but we were most captivated by the carefully scented biodegradable botanical wax candles in hand-blown glass.

Certainly some may see the candle as little more than the go-to generic gift item, or perhaps a collectible for others based on a favorite fragrance, but it’s rare for the home staple’s packaging—in this case gorgeously simple, thick, rounded glass jars handcrafted by a classically trained Venetian glass blower in Auckland—to get as much attention as the product within. “Meticulous hands and eyes are at the heart of Curio Noir,” says founder Tiffany Jeans, who broke down the thoughtful process behind each piece.

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Can you explain how the glass containers are made?

I have had a fascination with glass for a long time. Until the 19th century glass blowing was the main technique of hot working glass. Air is blown through a hollow blow-pipe to inflate a mass of molten glass gathered at the end. In this nearly liquid state a blob of glass can be formed in to a bubble that can then be reshaped, layered or decorated by other means. Glass blowing requires speed, strength and dexterity. The classic technique of glass blowing is used for each piece from the Curio Glass range, one piece at a time, making them truly individual, unique objects of art. We use a mold and then once the glass is out we have another piece of glass added to the surface where the Curio Noir stamp is applied. To turn glass batch in to glass, it gets melted at 1300 degrees Celsius over the course of a day. Once it has cooled to 1100 degrees the glass is ready to be worked.

How do you get colored glass?

To make our colored glass, metal oxides are added in powdered form to the raw batch before it is heated. Luke, my glass blower, makes his own colors from scratch so to have maximum control over the end product. As these are also made in small batches there are slight variants in color tones within a range, which I love, as this shows these are not factory pieces. Once a piece of glass is finished it is left to cool for many hours.

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How are the candles scented?

The candles are scented with perfume which is made in small batches mixed in Grasse, France. We currently have Vetyver Bouquet with notes of cypress, jasmine, orange flower and vetyver; Black Spice with notes of aniseed, cinnamon, nutmeg and fresh tea leaves; Chypre Gardenia with notes of gardenia, violet, musks and iris; and Tubereuse Noir with notes of tuberose, violet, heliotrope and spices.

The entire Curio Noir collection is available at select boutiques in New Zealand, Australia and online.


Tranquil Tuesdays

Our interview with Charlene Wang on her socially responsible tea brand

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In a cozy showroom nestled in the alleys of old Beijing, we met Charlene Wang of Tranquil Tuesdays upon her return from the spring harvest of white peony tea in Fujian province. Wang has combined her passion for tea and her background as a US State Department human rights officer to create her brand, which aims to bring back the purity of ancient tea tradition. Traveling to the hot spots of tea in China, she builds personal relationships with local family farms and to source the best natural tea in the country.

Her company is a social enterprise that works closely with people in rural China, providing training, encouragement and support. At the same time, Charlene works with young designers from Jingdezheng, China’s epicenter for the best pottery to refine the
experience of style related to tea culture. We talked to Wang to learn more about her thoughtful venture.

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Excellent tea and beautiful teaware hold represent the essence of what you called “pure releaf”—what is the idea behind this concept?

The cool idea comes from my sister, and I immediately found it brilliant! I feel “pure releaf” perfectly embodies all the values we want to offer. I think the phrase gives the idea of tranquility, calmness, purposeful quiet, a kind of refuge feeling which is a
strong part of traditional tea culture. And then it’s “pure” because we concentrate only on natural, unscented, unblended tea, so just pure tea.

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Your varieties include White peony tea, Organic Jadesword Green Tea, Tieguanyin Oolong tea, Keemun black tea, ancient tree raw Pu’er—how do you source all these teas? Do you plan to expand your collection?

We need to travel to the area, to see different farms, to meet people and build relationships before we even think of ordering tea from them. Sometimes I travel off season, to meet farmers and see how they take care of their land. In Fujian I was there seeing the leaves been picked and how they made. They only pick one season instead of the usual three, in order to preserve the quality of the plants. I build a friendship with my suppliers and we often share some of the key moments of their work. For Oolong tea, I stayed at a farmer’s house for a week during the fall harvest. I was on the
second floor of a local family’s workshop and every morning I could wake up to the smell of freshly made Oolong.

We want to add other qualities of tea to our collections but it requires a lot of work and for the moment we’re a bit overloaded. I’d love to add a yellow tea in the near future.

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Tranquil Tuesdays is also about teaware, how did you start your cooperation with studios in Jingdezhen?

I had several trips to Jingdezhen, which is nationally considered the home of traditional Chinese porcelain. The first time I was there as a tourist and I was totally amazed. Some local young designers have been able to take this tradition of craftsmanship and add a modern feeling to it. The first artist I’ve been working with is Zhang Min, who’s taking the traditional blue and white theme from Ming dynasty and kind
of twisting it to give a natural breath of life to our teaware. Then I met Ke Zhongxiang, who’s making the celadon line, and I was fascinated by his creative studio’s setup, in the simplicity of his small workshop some of his artworks really stood out. Zhu Xuan is making our crystalline glaze line, bringing back an ancient special technique of glazing zinc oxide before firing, to produce an unique effect where crystals spontaneously form on the surface, making each piece unique.

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Do you just source products from them or you participate in the whole design process?

I was inspired by their collections and I love their personal style, we’ve been working closely to build our own lines. They all run small workshops and our cooperation often requires a long time. We define each single piece together, we adjust the proportions, sometimes we work online on QQ (the most-used Chinese messenger), sometimes they
also make drawings live online using their kids tablets! I also travel back there, we discuss details personally and I can also see our teaware getting out of the community kiln. We work together from the beginning to the end to build our current feeling.

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How would you define the “pure releaf” aesthetic?

The idea is to take very classical, traditional, ancient art and porcelain-making and give it a kind of contemporary twist. We aim to make a fresh vision of what it means to be Chinese. Most of Europeans and Americans identify Chinese styles with flashy colors and a kind of kitsch style but if you go back to the roots of Chinese culture there are several examples of fine simplicity. To give an example, celadon has been China’s most prized porcelain since the Tang dynasty (618-907 A.D.), when it was largely traded with the Middle East. Until the 14th century, no one outside China and Korea was able to produce it, but sometimes, when people see the stunning beauty and simplicity of Chinese celadon handcrafts, they ask if it’s Japanese!

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Tranquil Tuesdays products are available online
and delivered worldwide.


Albert Zuger

Roughshod elegance marks a designer’s handmade jewelry
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In Albert Zuger‘s jewelry you can see Aphrodite taking Hephaestus’ hand; it is a heavenly marriage of beauty and the forge. The Toronto-based designer hammers out earrings, necklaces, rings and bracelets in bronze that carry an unpretentious elegance, marks of the hammer, and the spirit of the American craftsmanship.

Zuger’s involvement with jewelry began with an actual wedding—his own. As a metalworker since high school and a sculptor by trade, when he proposed to his wife, Sasha Suda, he didn’t feel it was right for them to wear rings he hadn’t made himself. What he produced, and what now rests on both of their fingers, features hundreds of layers of several steel alloys, with a lining of gold peeking out around the edge. Those who saw the ring went mad for it, and Zuger—who was leaving his metal fabrication outfit in New York for Suda’s hometown of Toronto—saw an opportunity to start a new career that combined his love of sculpture, jewelry and traditional metalwork.

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“I’ve been a metalworker since age 15,” says Zuger, who moved to Kansas City as a teenager and volunteered with historic blacksmith shop there. Meanwhile, he took every jewelry design class his high school offered and learned to weld in a metal fabrication studio before driving his 1950 Ford pickup to the Pratt Institute in Brooklyn, where he studied sculpture. After college, he opened his own metal fabrication business in an 1850s warehouse in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, fabricating elements of artists’ large-scale sculptures, ornate arch metalwork, and unique structures like a pair of giant bronze doors for an Upper East Side mansion.

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Zuger works all of this experience into his jewelry design, citing Samuel Maloof, and the revival of the American Arts and Crafts movement in the 1950s as his inspiration. “I see myself more than anything else as a sculptor,” he says. “I wouldn’t call myself a jeweler.” Whether sculptural pieces or jewelry, the resulting golden bangles, rings and collar necklaces befit strong women from Gramercy to “Game of Thrones” (there are also shoehorns, keychains, and cufflinks for all). Their details and refinement speak to a marked sophistication, but their hand-hammered shape and construction speak to a deep connection to the process in which they were crafted.

“I’m inspired by Calder, Noguchi, Hans Hofman. It’s a cultural exploration of form and surface in a wearable sort of way,” says Zuger.

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For Zuger, the key is in the craftsmanship. “Every surface has been changed from what it started out as. It’s a transformative process that creates these objects that are both and very sculptural,” he says. “The most important thing to me is to have my hands in the stuff, to be actually making it. Having studied sculpture and making things all these years, that’s what I enjoy most. It’s all hand-hammered. I don’t have other people cast stuff. I don’t have other people do my stamping.”

With no disrespect to David Yurman or Chanel (fine, some disrespect), or even the smaller, trendy jewelry-makers—the Pamela Loves, the Philip Crangis—I believe this is what is called a labor of love.


Suzie by Colonel

Vintage beach chairs repurposed as modern indoor lanterns
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More than just bringing the outdoors in, French design studio Colonel recreates a bygone era of carefree beach bumming and camping that’s infinitely more subtle than the theme-party decor such a notion might conjure. Founders Isabelle Gilles and Yann Poncelet reference vintage outdoor gear throughout their collections, from the umbrella-like Faced floor lamps to the oversized, vibrantly printed canvas and metal chair called Caracas.

The retro beach vibe shines through in the cheerful Suzie collection of suspension and floor lanterns for inside the home. Made from the plastic bands of ’60s-era American camping chairs which are hand-sewn over metal frames, each of the lights comprises a unique combination of colors and geometric patterns. While the repurposed lounger parts are recognizable at close glance, their overall effect makes for a thoroughly clean and modern accent in an interior scheme, whether it’s waterfront or not.

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Suzie lamps and pieces from other Colonel collections are available to order through their website.


Wooden Toys

Six toy makers employ nature’s classic playtime material

The tactile qualities and durability of wood make it the perfect material for children’s toys. Despite the prevalence of plastic, we’re still fans of old-school toy-making in the form of wooden figurines and structures. Here are six picks from this year’s Toy Fair in NYC.

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Anamalz

Designed in Australia, the playful figurines from Anamalz include creatures from the extinct to the exotic. All of the toys are handmade from wood sourced from sustainable forests with rope appendages and felt manes and tails.

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Brinca Dada

Instill a bit of the modern design aesthetic early on with one of these dollhouses modeled after the De Stijl movement, which come with equally geometric furnishings replicating famous Dutch designs. Brinca Dada also offers a set of mismatched blocks from hand-carved teak, which challengees your child to create original forms—perfect for those who like to draw outside the lines.

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Citiblocs

From renewable forests in New Zealand come Citiblocs, a set of identical building blocks that can accommodate infinite arrangements. Despite the incredibly simple concept, the potential applications of these rectangular forms is truly impressive.

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Scrabble Typography

For older kids and anyone who likes to play with words, Scrabble has reinvented itself with the solid walnut set. The Scrabble Typography Deluxe Edition uses different typefaces for all of the tiles, ensuring that good spelling and appealing fonts go hand in hand.

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Guidecraft

Made from solid wood and birch plywood, Guidecraft provides a clean design center for kids to get crafty. These modest sets are sure to keep creativity at the forefront of your child’s mind.

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Prince Lionheart

Teaching balance to youngsters, the pedal-less bikes from Prince Lionheart are made from birch that is cut from an FSC-certified forest. What begins as a timid walk will quickly become a gleeful glide on the chopper-inspired frame.

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Tree Blocks

The structures and elvish figurines from Tree Blocks are created from reclaimed and sustainably harvested wood. Stack the blocks to create small wooden towers for the elves to inhabit.


Hiut Denim

Wales is making jeans again

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Along with a beloved old T-shirt or a perfectly worn leather jacket, jeans often have more of a backstory than a regular article of clothing. The recently launched Hiut Denim encourages the wearer to officially document their relationship with their pants from the moment they first put them on. Built into each pair is a HistoryTag—a unique code enabling an online memory bank for jeans. By setting up a special account, people can upload pictures and stories about their adventures in denim. The archived information about each pair is maintained even as they’re passed from one owner to the next.

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Interested in the stories behind the clothing we wear, David and Clare Hieatt founded Hiut—the name is a combination of “Hieatt” and “Utility”—to bring denim production back to their hometown of Cardigan, Wales which previously housed the U.K.’s largest denim factory producing 35,000 pairs a week. When businesses began moving operations east, the plant was closed, leaving a talented workforce behind.

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With the new Hiut factory, the Hieatts hope to regenerate the local craft industry and in doing so, employ about 400 people in Cardigan again. Operating under the motto, “do one thing well,” Hiut has Grand Master denim cutters and machinists focusing their efforts on making just two styles of jeans—regular and slim—in a choice of two denim fabrics, organic from Turkey and selvage from Kuroki, the artisanal Japanese denim mill.

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In the face of fast mass produced fashion Hiut is taking a more focused approach, celebrating each individual pair of locally made jeans—and encouraging those who buy the wares to continue the process with the HistoryTag. Hiut is available on the brand’s website, where you can pick your denim (organic or selvage), and then your cut (regular or slim), at prices starting at £130 a pair.


Artemas Quibble

Modern leather goods inspired by ancient techniques
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A self-taught woodworker, Jason Ross‘ foray into leather goods happened by chance. While working on a furniture project in a friend’s woodshop, Ross noticed a band saw running on a leather belt and was so impressed it still worked that he “immediately contacted the company and bought scraps by the pound,” he says. The natural artisan taught himself how to manipulate his newfound medium and began integrating leather into his woodworking.

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Today Ross peddles his expertly crafted leather accessories under the moniker Artemas Quibble, a name that suggests his continued interest in ancient objects and techniques. Working out of his studio in Brooklyn, Ross and his team create each belt, bag and jewelry item by hand for his own label as well as for his collaboration with Donna Karan.

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“I enjoy reading how archaeologists think through the purpose of things and materials,” Ross explains. Gleaning insight from his favorite archaeology website, Ross learns from the methods of thinking and draws conclusions from fragmented evidence. These informed interpretations provide a foundation of authenticity for a mien blending the primitive with the modern. “I generally look for an aesthetically pleasing decorative or functional element that can’t be traced to one culture or another,” he notes.

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Ross’ understanding of material also stems from his father—the inventor of the first plastic push-pin for Moore Push-Pin—who taught him about memory in materials. This guidance helped Ross develop one of his ingenious techniques, based on a “rivet-less” closure system in which a piece of leather is looped around itself or a piece of hardware and strung through a hole to hold it firmly in place without any give, even as the hide wears over time.

The idea really clicked when Ross began deconstructing an African hunting bag given to him by Graham Cassie, on which, he says, “leather thongs were stitched through holes to hold the various panels of the bag together.” He explains, “I could not, in most cases pull the old straps through the holes. The holes had been stretched and seemed to lock around the leather. I was forced to cut the straps in order to deconstruct the leather.” Ross uses the ancient concept to lock leather to leather as a way of holding hardware, which he also forges in his workshop.

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A former Calvin Klein model, Ross’ interest in accessories seems like a natural progression, but his obsession with his craft goes beyond a connection to fashion. “I think that I appreciate beauty in discarded objects and remake those things, perhaps there is a connection to reading about excavations and discovery,” he says. The pieces he creates truly reflect his thoughtful nature and talent for combining the past with the future.

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Select Artemas Quibble items sells online, as well as at Urban Zen and ABC Carpet & Home in NYC. See more images in the slideshow below.

Photos by Ruediger Glatz.


Doug Johnston Rope Works

One-off woven wares formed from an ancient coiling technique

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Once used for model-making, Doug Johnston‘s nimble fingers have found a new medium in recent years. The trained architect creates vessels, sculptures and wearable masks by stitching together sewing thread and braided cotton cord on his industrial-strength, vintage Singer zig-zag sewing machine, which he then hand forms into the uniquely curious shapes.

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Born in Texas, raised in Tulsa, OK and now based in Brooklyn, Johnston employs an ancient crafting technique traditionally used for making ceramic coiled pots. While his method may reflect the past, he visualizes his process as a kind of 3D prototyping technique. Johnston explains on his site, “In this way the ‘3D file’ is in my head as I begin each piece and its formation happens by making certain adjustments to the work while sewing.”

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Meticulously executed but entirely unrestrained in form, the rope works reflect the creative pragmatism of Johnston’s architectural mind. Starting today, a small selection of his vases, cones and baskets are selling online from Partners & Spade for $40-345. A wider selection can also be found in his online shop.