Fashionably graphic

Eley Kishimoto look books by HarrimanSteel

New book Graphic Design For Fashion probes the curious relationship between the graphic designer and the fashion world, articulated through branding, packaging, look books and invitations…

Compiled by Jay Hess and Simone Pasztorek, designers at London-based studio byBOTH, the book presents a series of beautifully shot spreads and is an ideal reference point for illustrating how graphic design is used by the fashion industry.

Acne Studios projects by Acne Art Department

With the innovative work of Acne Studios and its in-house art department as the starting point, the collection sets out to show how vital design-led branding is for establishing an identity for any fashion business. And from the company’s comp slips to its buttons, the Acne brand is instantly recognisable via the typography and minimalist design used consistently over its products.

But Graphic Design For Fashion also demonstrates how the look book and even the fashion show invite provide a medium that can diverge from a consistent brand statement – with the need to respond to seasonal trends and influences, both forms afford the graphic designer much greater creative licence and artistic freedom.

Viktor & Rolf branding by Mevis and Van Deursen

Aboud Creative’s invitations for Paul Smith shows

An in-depth examination of the Paul Smith brand vividly illustrates the creative scope of the invitation, for example. Regarded by the industry as a quintessentially British brand, the label’s 20-year relationship with Aboud Creative has produced a diverse range of invitations tailored to suit individual collections. The primary colours and geometric shapes used for one season form a dramatic contrast to a handwritten invite emblazoned with delicate floral motifs designed for another.

Paolo Bazzani’s work for Kenzo fashion shows also reveals how an invitation can become a work of art in itself. For the Spring/Summer 09 event, Bazzani used children’s pop-up books as inspiration, to create a whimsical 3D collage of paper butterflies, which of course also doubled up as an invite.

Paolo Bazzani’s work for Kenzo

And from butterflies to human flies, images from the Spring/Summer 06 look book for fashion label Bernhard Willhelm, show how even this staple of the fashion industry can be given a surreal makeover via graphics. Featuring two naked figures with models exploding from their mouths, the images are both beautiful and provocative.

Freudenthal Verhagen’s look book for Bernard Willhelm

With its broad selection of both labels and creatives, Hess and Pasztorek have cherry-picked some truly original work here. Although occasionally weighed down by a few turgid turns of phrase here and there – this is the world of fashion after all – Graphic Design For Fashion is a very well dressed and rich source for information and inspiration.

Graphic Design For Fashion is published by Laurence King and is out now; £26.

Matt Needle

matt1

Some nice illustrations by UK-based Matt Needle.

More great work on his site.

Rio 2016 Olympics logo: a closer look

Yesterday we posted a story on the furore surrounding the logo for the Rio 2016 Olympics, which was unveiled on New Year’s Eve. Today we take a closer look at the work itself.

Before getting in to the logo, perhaps a bit of context would be useful. It’s no use designers pining for another Otl Aicher, a master designer handed almost complete control over the visual identity of a major international sporting event: those days are gone. To create an identity for such an event today, particularly the Olympics or World Cup, is to enter into a process that is torturous, endlessly frustrating and enough to test the patience of a saint. It is a process, moreover, that flies in the face of accepted wisdom regarding what is neeeded to produce strong, distinctive, memorable design. There will be no single, clear, consistent decision-maker. There will be a multitude of competing interests to satisfy. And the very nature of the mechanism for even competing for the job in the first place will be so Byzantine and time-consuming that it will put many of the most talented and most suitable design studios off even getting involved.

But get involved they do and so any design studio that can make it out the other side with even a half-decent end result deserves praise for endurance, bottle and endless patience if nothing else.

And so to Rio. On New Year’s Eve, in front of nearly two million people the world got its first look at the emblem designed for the 2016 Games. It was created by Rio-based Tátil, whose other clients include Walmart and Fiat.

Tátil’s online case study (interesting that they are allowed to discuss the project given the restrictions imposed by the London organisers) talks through its strategy for the Olympics logo. The challenge, it says, was “to represent the Passion and Transformation of a city and an entire country, and project these values to the rest of the world.

A brand that must express unity. Inspire achievement and optimism. Avoid clichés and present Rio de Janeiro as the site of the largest sporting event in the world – to its very own Cariocas, and to athletes and people around the world.”

It began its research by mapping out “several Rio 2016 planets … each one with multiple references, concepts, trends and articles.”

The idea was to root the identity in the essence of Rio’s Cariocas – its citizens. “We were born from a mixture of ethnicities. We warmly embrace all ethnicities, faiths and generations. We share our sky, our ocean and our happiness with the world. This human warmth, which is part of the Carioca nature and the Olympic spirit, is shaped by the exuberant nature of a city that inspires us to live passionately and carefree, and loves to share and engage with others.”

This led Tália to a graphic device that would (literally) depict people joining together in an exuberant, joyful way.

Colour choices were led by the Brazilian environment: “Yellow symbolises the sun and our warm, vivacious and happy nature. Blue expresses the fluidity of the water that surrounds us, and our easygoing way of life. Green represents our forests and hope, a positive vision that inspires us to go even further.”

To all this is added a rather neat, abstract reference to a Rio landmark, Pão de Açúcar or Sugarloaf Mountain, the shape of which is mapped by the logo.

Although presented initially in 2D form, the logo device was, apparently conceived as a three-dimensional form as this model illustrates.

Beneath the graphic device, Rio 2016 is picked out in a bespoke brushscript typeface – the default option for international sporting events de nos jours. Some commenters on our original story claim to see the word ‘RIO’ in the graphical device as well, though it’s not immediately obvious.

So does it work? I gave a rather flip initial assessment in the original story which some commenters took me up on (fair enough) so here’s a more considered view.

The Rio logo comes in the wake of London 2012 and so comparisons are inevitable. At a recent talk I asked the audience if they had disliked the London logo when it first appeared: the majority stuck their hands up. Then I asked them if they had changed their minds since: just a few hands remained aloft. London tore up the Great Sporting Event Logo Handbook. It almost willfully disregards the accepted way of these things: no overt geographical reference to the home city, no ‘welcoming, joyful’ attitude, no rounded, friendly organic shapes. It almost dares us to like it. And for many it remains an unmitigated design disaster.

Rio, on the other hand, seems to have gone too far in the other direction. If London is all bared teeth, Rio rolls over and wants us to tickle its tummy. Each organising committee requirement is present and correct: happy amorphous dancing people of the type seen in so many logos before (and, yes, as also seen in Matisse), soft edges where London is jagged and city landmark front and centre (though, I admit, I wouldn’t have recognised the Sugarloaf unprompted). But the Games don’t just belong to the organising committee, they belong to the citizens of the host city and, by extension, to the world.

I have no nationalistic agenda here – for all its daring the London logo remains damn ugly and I have yet to see it used happily by a third party nor brought to life in any dazzling manner. It’s not a question of whether one beats the other. And I can’t comment on whether it says ‘Rio’ – I’ve never been there – but it certainly says ‘Logo for major international sporting event’. Yes the Sugar loaf reference is clever, but the overall effect is disappointingly familiar. Perhaps it will fare better when animated or turned into public art, but in 2D form it’s just a little banal and forgettable.

Who knows what hoops Tátil had to jump through to get this far, though. Perhaps, somewhere among the early presentations, before everything was watered down and neutered, there was a fresher, more exciting take on the original idea. And perhaps these initial sketches provide a clue.

These roughs of the Sugarloaf reference are featured on the Brand New site. They’re just doodles, rushed and a bit clumsy. On their own they don’t look much but they emphasise that there is perhaps a strong, simple idea at the heart of this work. Is it too fanciful to imagine them as a starting point for an altogether warmer, more distinctive, less Photoshopped-to-within-an-inch-of-its-life route that could have given Rio something truly special?

 

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Rio 2016 unveils logo

Nothing like a good logo controversy to kick off the New Year: the emblem for the 2016 Rio Olympics was unveiled on New Year’s Eve and immediately ran into accusations of plagiarism.

The logo, designed by Rio-based Tátil, “translates the Olympic spirit and the nature, feelings, and aspirations of the athletes, Rio and the cariocas,” according to the official guff. “Different countries, athletes and peoples are joined in a warm embrace – in an individual and collective move, which at a second glance, reveals one of Rio’s most beautiful icons, a vibrant Sugar Loaf, radiating joy, unity, celebration, and friendship.”

However, a story in the Washington Post, following up on Brazilian media reports, alleged a similarity with the logo of US not-for-profit the Telluride Foundation. Tátil’s Fred Gelli put any likeness down to coincidence and noted that the broad concept of people embracing each other is not novel. Quite.

Apparently, Tátil’s design was selected from eight finalists, after a five-month selection process that initially involved 139 agencies. As an exercise in box-ticking it does its job: joyful amorphous people? Tick. Suggestion of diversity? Tick. ‘Friendly’ scripty typeface? Tick. Values that could be ascribed to just about any bidding city? Err.. check.

Lord knows, the London logo has much about it to dislike but at least it’s more memorable than this insipid effort.

UPDATE: Some commenters have been complaining about the brevity of this story which was intended mainly to note the logo’s launch and the accompanying furore. Go here for a more detailed critique.

 

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More Christmas fun for everyone!

The Christmassy treats keep on flooding into CR Towers. Here are some more of the inventive ways that designers and ad agencies are promoting themselves this festive season… First up is illustrator James Majowski‘s take on Santa, which he calls ‘On the origin of Christmas’.

We’ve all seen Elf Yourself, but now there’s Delft Yourself, a uniquely Dutch take on the whole interactive Christmas card-film-website thing from 180 Amsterdam. Visitors to the site are encouraged to use their webcams to create their own personalised messages that will appear on the site in a Holland stylee.

Lean Mean Fighting Machine has tackled one of the great questions of the Christmas season with its website Snowman or Fatman? The site invites visitors to pick one option and then watch a small boy approach a snow-covered figure and kick it to reveal which is correct.

A more elegant festive message comes from Imaginary Forces, who has created a pretty film to celebrate the holidays. See it here.

New Future Graphic has created this cute film featuring a wrapping paper-machine. The paper patterns shown can then be downloaded for use on your very own gifts online here, and there are fun iPhone and iPad treats too.

Digital production house squint/opera has shown its dedication to the Christmas season by painting a giant Christmas tree across its office space.

Taxi Studio sent us in this rather lovely Christmas conundrum, in the form of an elegant wooden cube and a puzzle. We’ve yet to work it out, maybe you can solve it for us?

Publicis in London sent us this box of biscuits, which we were surprised to find were decorated with info on the agency’s most successful campaigns of the year. Start Thinking Soldier (biscuit shown above), the Renault Mégane Experiment and Malibu were all featured on the biccies. Bizarre but tasty!

Finally, we end with a digital take on the exquisite corpse game by Big Spaceship in New York. Corpsify invites visitors to draw the head, torso or feet of a character, which is then joined to contributions by other users to create a unique figure.

CR wishes all our readers a very Merry Christmas. See you in 2011!

David Carson covers Little White Lies and Huck

With Huck and Little White Lies magazines both part of The Church of London stable, it’s a tradition that the covers of last two issues of the year have a visual relationship to one another. This year the link between them is that divisive figure of graphic design, David Carson

For the Jan/Feb 2011 cover of film title Little White Lies, the magazine’s creative director Paul Willoughby sketched the film’s lead, Natalie Portman, and passed the drawing (and LWL cover furniture) across to Carson, the brief being that he would craft something in response.

The result sees some black foiled type spread over the whole cover; an unusual take for the magazine, where the ‘issue’ title usually plays second fiddle to the main illustration. Despite a $ made from the clash of “s” and “H”, I rather like the fact that with a portrait of a face as obviously magazine-friendly as Portman’s, the type directly subverts the image, the ruffled feathers almost echoing the violent placement of the letters.

For Huck, Carson applied a more recognisable typographic style, working with the magazine’s creative director, Rob Longworth. Disruption seems to be the order of the day here, however, with Oskar Enender’s photograph of a lone snowboader adorned with a skewed barcode and a conspicuously ‘undesigned’ type treatment at the bottom.

While I can take or leave the rather forced Carson© treatment of the bottom section, the masthead is much more interesting; different enough to catch your eye, but still recognisably Huck.

Last year Geoff McFetridge brought the two issues together using a single illustration in an excellent Where the Wild Things Are tribute. It revealed it’s full charm when the titles were displayed together on the magazine rack (see the CR blog post on the work, here).

In having the designer himself as the link between the covers, however, the connection between the issues is much more subtle. But will that mean there’s more room for each one to stand out?

Little White Lies #33 and Huck #24 are due out at the end of this month.

Print Club London’s Blisters Blackout show re-opens

If you missed Print Club London’s recent Blisters Blackout exhibition – which featured 40 screenprints, each by a different artist, and each incorporating phosphorescent (glow-in-the-dark) ink – then don’t worry. Because all the work is now on show in Print Club London’s Brick Lane shop and gallery…

The show consists of new work by 40 different artists including Mr Bingo, James Joyce, Jamie Reid, Ryan Todd, Pure Evil, Eine, Serge Seidlitz, Si Scott, Gary Taxali and Sarah King. Each artist was briefed to include glow-in-the-dark ink so that each print could be viewed, literally, in a new light when the lights are switched off at regular intervals during the show.

The Print Club London shop is at 214 Brick Lane, London E1 6SA. You can also peruse Print Club London’s wares online at printclublondon.com. Here’s the poster for the re-opening party tonight at the shop:

 

CR Blog Top Ten 2010

From wallpaper to gravestones, children’s bedrooms to the history of London, we round up the ten most popular stories on the Creative Review website this year

10, StreetMuseum iPhone app
Brothers and Sisters’ app for the Museum of London cleverly brought the Museum’s extensive art and photographic collections to the streets of the capital. It made use of geo tagging and Google Maps to guide users to various sites in London where, via the iPhone screen, various historical images of the city appear.

9, Gap to pull new logo
The US retailer’s spectacular loss of nerve after a vehement online response to its new logo. Throughout the year, logo redesigns sparked more debate on this site than any other topic.

 

8, Record Sleeves of the Month
Gavin Lucas’s round-up of recent record packaging is a regular feature on this site but the March edition proved particularly popular. Why? There was certainly some great work on show – even though several commenters dismissed it with the lofty disdain that has become all too familiar on here.

 

7, The Bible according to Google Earth
The story that just won’t go away. If you wanted evidence of the Long Tail theory of web-based content look no further than this account of Glue Society’s cleverly manipulated Biblical scenes, originally posted in DECEMBER 2007 but still bringing in the punters.

 

6, Penguin Classics team up with [RED] for typographic covers
Book cover stories are always popular on here, as this snappily titled post from March confirms.

5, MTV logo changes, stays same
Another logo story, this time about the minor widening and truncating of one of the most famous marks in the world. Much debate ensued, too much for one commenter – “They’ve cropped it, that’s all. It works. Get over it.”

 

4, The Helvetica Killer
Ah, don’t you just love a good debate about Helvetica, especially one with a deliberately inflammatory headline and an outspoken protagonist determined to take on one very large sacred cow. Bruno Maag’s attempt to question the vailidity of Helvetica as the world’s favourite typeface, and his proposal of an alternative of his own devising, outraged and enraged with 134 comments.

 

3, Saville and Kelly’s memorial to Tony Wilson
In death as in life: Peter Saville and Ben Kelly’s memorial to their friend and collaborator Anthony H Wilson was three years late, but it was worth the wait. Another piece of Saville work attracted more comment (his England shirt) but this beautiful piece of black granite had more views, attracting links from mainstream media and a host of music-related sites.

 

2, Where Children Sleep
Photographer James Mollison’s moving, insightful and revelatory project contrasting the sleeping quarters of children from differing backgrounds around the world won Best in Book in our Photography Annual this year and many admirers when a selection of images was posted here online. “I hope this book will help children think about inequality, within and between societies around the world,” says Mollison in his introduction, “and perhaps start to figure out how, in their own lives, they may respond.” Mollison is currently working on a project about playgrounds.

 

1, Carnovsky’s RGB wallpaper
Our most popular story of the year and it’s about, err, some wallpaper. Not just any wallpaper though, this is wallpaper that reveals different patterns according to the colour of light shone upon it.

 

Conclusions? This is a list of most-read stories and so is naturally skewed toward those that are more likely to be linked to by others, which perhaps favours stories of general interest or stories about well-known people or brands. It also, of course, favours the stories that have been up the longest as it is a survey of page views over 12 months and illustrates that many stories have a very long shelf-life.

There’s also something else interesting about the list. We are sometimes lectured in the comments section about the need to publish only stories or work that readers would not have not seen elsewhere before. The inference is that, if a piece of work has appeared anywhere else on the web prior to us featuring it, then it cannot appear here. And yet, of these ten stories, almost half, including the number one story, feature work that had been posted elsewhere beforehand.

One other thing: during the course of this past year, the traffic to this website has increased by almost 50%. Thank you to all our readers for supporting us (even the ones who write obnoxious comments). Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year from everyone at CR.

 

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Chilean Winers

The rescue of the Chilean miners was one of the most uplifting (pardon the pun) stories of this year, and to celebrate it, London-based creative agency Unreal has created a limited edition set of bottles of Chilean wine, which they have sent out as an alternative Christmas present…

 

There are 33 bottles in the Chilean Winers series, one for each of the miners rescued from the San José copper-gold mine in the Atacama Desert. Unreal has named each bottle after one of the miners and numbered them in order of their rescue.

“We wanted to produce something that celebrated the story of the year,” says designer Ryan Tym. “People all over the world watched the miners’ rescue and it became a fantastic story in an otherwise difficult year. As we researched the project, we found that Chilean wine sales in the UK alone rose 25% in the days following the successful rescue, as people came together in celebration.”

The back of each bottle details information about the individual miner it is dedicated to, giving stories about their lives and also how they helped the group during the 69 days they were trapped underground.

The attention to detail continues in the packaging, with each bottle sent in a tube containing gravel and with a note that replicates the initial message sent by the miners to rescuers, which stated “Estamos bien en el refugio los 33” (“We are okay in the refuge, the 33 of us”).

More info on the Chilean Winers series can be found at chileanwiners.com.

 

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Vaughan Oliver designs record sleeve for David Lynch

Last week, legendary filmmaker, David Lynch (Eraserhead, Blue Velvet, Mulholland Drive, Twin Peaks) released his debut solo, electronic single via iTunes, courtesy of UK label Sunday Best. Two physical format releases are planned for January: a triple gatefold deluxe vinyl package, and also a deluxe CD format. Art direction duties are in the more than capable hands of UK designer Vaughan Oliver. We caught up with him to find out a bit more about the project…

“David Lynch has always been a huge inspiration, so when this came up it was a dream job,” says Oliver, who has created the artwork for the double A-sided single comprising the tracks Good Day Today and I Know.

Creative Review: So how did this job come about?
Vaughan Oliver:
Sunday Best sent me a one line email asking if I’d like to work on a David Lynch release. So I replied to the email and asked, tongue in cheek of course – ‘why me?’

CR: And their response?
VO:
“We couldn’t think of anyone more appropriate,” they said.

CR: That’s a good answer!
VO:
To be honest, I’ve been wondering for three weeks if someone was taking the piss and winding me up. I kept thinking that the fellow must be surrounded by people that could have done the sleeve for him – and he had a fabulous show in Paris not all that long ago. I did initially wonder why he wasn’t doing the artwork himself.

CR: So what’s the starting point for designing a record sleeve for David Lynch – you listen to the music, right?
VO:
That’s right, have you heard the tracks? There is a lovely simplicity there that i can relate to. So my thought was to try to get the artwork to relate to that whilst capturing a more eerie dark atmosphere. My first port of call was photographer Marc Atkins. I’ve worked with him for about ten years and don’t need to say much to him – he gets it straight away. This was always going to be an image-based, rather than a design-based project.

CR: What is your working process with Atkins?
VO:
I sent him the music and the lyrics – “so tired of fire, so tired of smoke, send me an angel” – and asked Marc to give me an angel that moved out of the dark and into the light. Have you listened to I Know? I think it really works together – the bald headed man almost mouthing the lyrics with a halo of light and fire around him. For me, in terms of a marriage of music and graphics, it’s worked fabulously.”

CR: So did David Lynch get involved, did you speak to him?
VO:
I had a free hand, he was really easy going about the whole process. We didn’t get to speak head to head, but we communicated through the label and by all accounts he’s very pleased with it all.

CR: OK – the single was released digitally last week, but tell us about the physical releases – there’s a deluxe CD pack in the pipeline, due for release end of January, is that right?
VO: The CD pack will be a triple-panel gatefold – with the Good Day Today image on the front and the I Know image on the back. Open the pack to find [an image of] a small drop of blood on a silvery surface. Open that panel up, so that the triple gatefold is fully open and there’s another flap that folds over the middle panel from the top. Underneath is a postcard / print and underneath that is the CD tucked into a slot, so there’s no plastic.

CR: And there’s a vinyl package too?
VO: Yes, I’m working with The Vinyl Factory on that, which is a new experience for me. The pack will be triple gatefold too. Fold it out and there will be two records – one housed in each end panel of the sleeve. There will be a Good Day Today 180g vinyl record with the original track plus remixes, and the other 180g record will have I Know plus remixes on it. The inner sleeves that pull out will be printed in two different metallic colours and debossed wiht the scratchy type – which was created by Marc [Atkins]. The middle panel will have a 12″ artwork printed and debossed on really nice stock. Marc and I will be signing the prints. There will also be a CD included with the vinyl pack that has all the tracks on it.

The physical releases of Good Day Today / I Know are due out on January 31 and can be pre-ordered via davidlynch.com

There is also some info about the vinyl edition on The Vinyl Factory’s website at vfeditions.com/product/view/25