Singularities

3Sixteen details three of their uniquely talented clients in video

In celebration of the unique individuals that wear 3Sixteen, the denim-focused label recently created a series of videos showing off their customers’ talents and hardworking lifestyles. The trio of intriguing mini-docs, all profiling people in their homebase of NYC and cleverly titled “Singularities,” follows the dedicated coffee roasters at The Coffee Foundry, the skilled tattoo artists at Invisible Ink and the laid-back drummer Jahphet Landis. Directed by Kellen Dengler, the vignettes capture each of their subjects without ever mentioning 3Sixteen. This subtle brand-building project, much like their clothing, keeps it about the product not the name.

ched-3sixteen1.jpg

We had the pleasure of getting to know just how the clothing company works when we collaborated with Andrew Chen and the 3Sixteen team late last year on a series of ties made from locally-sourced wool in Manhattan’s Garment District. Like everything the brand produces, the attention to detail and commitment to craft really shines in each of the four styles, with a simple label hand-sewn on the back.

Dengler and the team are still searching for the fourth subject for the Singularities series. If you think your talents deserve some airtime, submit your work using one of their various online platforms for the project before 1 April 2011. To get your hands on one of our remaining collaborative ties, check them out in our online shop, where they sell for $80 each.


Breaking Bread

Suit shopping with Retna on the eve of his Hallelujah World Tour
retna1.jpg

Behind gate 37E on Washington Street lies a warehouse with a Buick Regal parked inside. Photographers are snapping away, laptops are out, and well-dressed critics buzz throughout the space. This was the scene when I visited “Breaking Bread,” the first stop on Retna’s three-continent-spanning Hallelujah Tour on the day before its opening.

Sponsored by VistaJet and Bombardier, the tour will see the L.A. graffiti legend spend the better part of the next year on the road, painting all original material in NYC, Hong Kong and London—and with a just-announced surprise show in Venice along the way. The series of shows comes on the heels of Retna’s successful solo show at L.A.’s New Image Art gallery, where powerhouse Museum of Contemporary Art director Jeffery Deitch compared Retna to Keith Haring, positioning it as “one of the most exciting exhibitions that I have seen this year.”

retna-10.jpg

For someone arguably at the peak of his career, Retna speaks casually about the worldwide tour, describing how the origins of the show started with a studio visit from the concept’s impresarios Andy Valmorbida and Vlad Restoin Roitfeld. “I thought it was cool, I was down with the cities. Then the sponsors came in and they wanted to put the ad on the plane digitally. I was like, ‘Nah, if my work’s gonna be out there it’s gonna be real, I don’t photoshop shit. If you want my work on that plane it’s going to be one 100% real.’ So now they’re locking down some super hanger so I can paint in it.”

retna3.jpg

If this newfound big league is unexpected or overwhelming, Retna doesn’t show it. “You know that’s why I still listen to the same music as I did back then. I’m still that same kid trying to get up on walls chasing the dream. When I was young I didn’t know what it was, but now that I’m here I guess this is the dream, I’m living it now.” Just after Retna shares these insights, a scruffy group of men who could be Hell’s Angels approach us. “You really out did yourself this time bro, looks great.”

The man clamps my hand, “Haze, good to meet you. This is my girl Rosie.” As in Perez, and Haze himself is one of graffiti’s inventors. Our corner of the room starts to fill up with members of Retna’s MSK crew, making it feel like a celebration. And there’s a lot to celebrate, not only Retna but the culture he represents—a kid from the gang-infested streets of L.A. who desperately wanted to join a gang at 13 but was told to focus on art instead. “You know they didn’t do that for just anybody,” he recalls. “They told me you can chill with us, you can smoke with us, you can paint our walls, but you ain’t a gangbanger.”

retna2.jpg

Retna introduces me to Revok1, who was recently arrested in Australia in what was called “the vandal vacation.” Revok1 explains, “Something like 10,000 kids went out to Melbourne from all over the country when they heard what was going down. They painted like 70% of all of the trains. The mayor came out and declared a state of emergency and called it a disgrace.”

Retna asks if we should continue the interview at a bar so he can relax, but before we can decide where, two enthusiastic assistants corner us saying, “This dinner is a huge deal! It’s like $100,000 a plate, and they’re auctioning off your painting. Bill Clinton is going to be there.” Retna, seemingly unaffected, is more interested in rounding up his friends for a quiet night downtown somewhere. After some back and forth with the assistants, it’s decided that his presence is required as an ambassador of “street art” culture. This is his world now whether he likes it or not. “I’m not a street artist dude, I mean, they can’t do what we do. I’m a graf writer. I always have been. Graf writers were getting gallery shows since the ’80s. This isn’t new, they just like that tag because it’s safe.”

retna5.jpg

With no suit on hand for the black tie event, we begin shopping through Soho, punctuated by “Fear and Loathing” moments, like Retna walking around Hugo Boss shirtless. The manicured men standing at attention find his antics less than amusing, even scoffing at his lack of interest in their style.

With the same courage he showed when he faced jail time and the same unflagging desire to paint, Retna does it all for the culture now so warmly embraced by high society. Before he disappears into the crowds of Soho, he turns with eyes open hugging the sky, “not bad for a lil nigga from the hood!”

Kicking off the Hallelujah Tour, “Breaking Bread” opens 10 February 2011 and runs through 21 February 2011 before moving on to its next port.


Matt Shlian

New obsessively process-oriented sculptures by a paper engineer
shilian-trio.jpg

As teacher, paper engineer and artist Matt Shlian explains on his site, “researchers see paper engineering as a metaphor for scientific principals; I see their inquiry as basis for artistic inspiration.”
His geometric sculptures elegantly reflect this strong connection to the education and scientific communities, exploring the physicality of paper with his curiosity-driven approach.

shilian11.jpg shilian12.jpg

Creating his work through problem solving and experimentation, Shlian’s deceptively simple aesthetic is the result of meticulous techniques and even more obsessive ideas. While restricting his palate to monochrome shades of white, Shlian’s intricate forms take on the complexity of natural design, suggesting the cellular lattices at the root of biological mechanics.

shilian-10.jpg

His new edition “The Process Series” is just that—a trio of works created by delving into the process of layering sheets of paper cut on a flatbed plotter cutter. Limited to an edition of 20 of each, the works sell from the Ghostly Store for $100 a pop.


Handmade Valentines

See how five of our favorite creatives celebrate the sappiest holiday of the year

While some bitterly cast off the romantic holiday as nothing more than an excuse to consume, Valentine’s Day is a great way to remind people how special they are. We tapped some of our favorite creatives to see how they make the holiday unique.

dodi-vday1.jpg dodi-vday2.jpg

Artist Dodi Wexler has been making and sending valentines since she was 19-years-old, starting with 10 and now crafting more than 200 each year. Wexler explains “I started making the Valentines because I always was so saddened that I never had a secret admirer or anyone amazing asking me to be their valentine on Valentine’s Day. As I made them, I got so wrapped up in the production and sending them to people, that I forgot about being sad. The giving made me really happy, especially because I know how much of a bummer Valentine’s Day can be.”

She also sees the creative merit in her venture, saying “They are a great way to discover new materials and try out new techniques in a doodle without the pressure of a meaningful piece lurking over my shoulder.”

goldteeth-vday1.jpg

Jesse Levison spends much of her time silkscreen printing cards for Gold Teeth Brooklyn, a line she runs with her friend Emily Joiner. When we asked what she had up her sleeve this holiday, Levison replied with the “damn crafty” gift she received from her boyfriend Alex, a welder at furniture design studio Uhuru. The sculpture consists of a metal box, which houses a fold-up metal heart etched with a personal message.

prager-vday1.jpg prager-vday2.jpg

Capturing the spirit of the holiday in ink, Vanessa Prager eschewed her eerie tendencies in favor of a more romantic theme, one that channels her playful and thoughtful personality. The classic card (the image above right is the inside message) serves as both a personal greeting and a keepsake for years to come.

Graphic designer Matt Van Ekeren teamed up with Italian illustrator Olimpia Zagnoli to create a charming animation for Valentine’s Day. “Let Love Grow” is a simple way to show that special someone you care.

ilana-vday1.jpg

A psychologist and artist “who sometimes suffers insomnia,” Ilana Simons began crafting clay creatures to keep her company at night. For Valentine’s Day she put her late-night hobby to use, filling an empty chocolate box with little characters for her boyfriend to help him with “fighting a chocolate addiction.”


Jakob LeBaron Dwight

A multifaceted video artist explores the communicative effects of light

by Ikechukwu Onyewuenyi

jdwight1.jpg

Mentioning an artist in the same breath as Jeremy Blake isn’t something to take lightly, but New York-based video artist, Jakob LeBaron Dwight’s current solo show at L.A.’s Papillion Institute of Arts proves the comparison holds up. With multifaceted training as philosopher, painter and videographer, his studies have converged into a body of work that’s imbued with a sense of organic experimentalism both deeply personal and with psychic overtones.

Dwight’s exploration using light as a medium is a through-line in his video installations, seizing on the “strong pathway already set up in our brains for illuminated imagery and information” to rewire our existing schema of light patterns on screen. In talking with the artist about the show and his works, it became clear that it’s not so much that Dwight is criticizing the banal utility of light in the present digital age (as he relies on the very medium), but more that he pushes people to “discover what communicative effects it may have in the realm or context of abstraction and the art experience, or even in the area of healing and psychology.”

For example, a piece like “Black Mirror” (above) provides ample space for the viewer to project their own emotions and ideas. Watching it left me in a transcendental space, reliving fond memories of my aunt’s African bazaar littered with Kente, Adire, bogolan and many more textiles. I saw myself in that visual tessellation and it felt wholesome.

Following the successful launch of his multi-disciplinary event JLD Studio at NYC’s White Box gallery space last year, his current show positions his conceptually palliative video work as a novel way to anticipate the function of light in society.

jdwight2.jpg

The solo exhibit is on view through 27 February 2010 at Papillion Institute of Art.


Who is Bozo Texino?

MoMA screens the true-story adventure of tracking down boxcar graffiti’s most notorious artist
BozoTexino2.jpg

One man’s sixteen-year quest to track down the elusive artists of a moniker that’s been appearing in railyards across America for 80-odd years is beautifully captured in the 56-minute documentary Who is Bozo Texino? The film debuted in 2005 and since its creator—filmmaker, trainrider and Guggenheim Fellow Bill Daniel—has taken the film on the road to more than 400 venues large and small.

Shot in black-and-white 16mm film with a Bolex camera, Daniel uses the scrawled moniker of Bozo Texino, an expressionless man wearing a large stetson, to explore the themes restlessness and freedom, hardship and entrapment and the many contradictions that exist for those that live on the rails.

texinofull3_lg1.jpg

This week Daniel brings the film to the MOMA for a rare special screening in Manhattan. He’ll be joined by Gary Fogelson who designed and edited the companion book, Mostly True, which elaborates on the mythic Bozo Texino and how its legacy reflects a largely invisible subculture that ride the nation’s rails and has existed in parallel to mainstream society since the Civil War.

“I don’t want to give too much away about Bozo, the film, or the mystery behind it all because people should come and find that out for themselves,” Folgelson recently told Cool Hunting. “I will say that the folks featured in this film (and book) are well known unknowns, and their work is an important piece in the history of American folk art.”

View a clip here featuring one of the many interviews of tramps and hobos Daniel encounters along the way. The DVD is also available for purchase direct from Daniel
on his website
or from Amazon.


Elder Kinder

Resurrected dreams in emerging artist Jason Bard Yarmosky’s portraits

elderkin1.jpg elderkin2.jpg

Rife with the painful vulnerability of reclaimed innocence, Jason Bard Yarmosky‘s painting series “Elder Kinder” reflects the parallel behaviors of growing up and growing old. Exhibiting at his first solo show (which opens this Friday at Brooklyn’s Like The Spice gallery), the works depict a cast of characters portrayed both in bold paintings and equally intriguing but more softhearted drawings. No matter the medium, meeting the direct stare of “Ballerina” or “Cowboy” is looking face to face with the raw sincerity of the subjects.

elderkin4.jpg elderkin3.jpg

Yarmosky explains in detail, “Elder Kinder juxtaposes the young and old to push the limits of social norms and freedom of expression. As a child you learn to walk, but later in life you learn to un-walk—the raw freedom that is so much a part of youth gives way to borders and boundaries placed on adult behavior. But the dreams of the young, often sublimated by the years, never really disappear.”

Echoing the heroic themes of his earlier work, the models—Yarmosky’s Brooklyn grandparents—wrest their purest form of self from a lifetime of adult demands and responsibilities. His deft rendering of their worn faces is outdone only by their poignantly complex expressions.

elderkin5.jpg elderkin6.jpg

Yarmosky’s work was shown this year at Aqua Art Fair in Miami, as well as Scope Art Fair—both concurrent with Art Basel. “Elder Kinder” opens at Like The Spice Gallery in 11 February 2011 and runs through 7 March 2011.


Bill Cunningham New York

Documentarian Richard Press on chasing NYT’s living photography legend

billcun3.jpg

Though shooting and editing “Bill Cunningham New York” only required two years, it took filmmaker Richard Press eight years before that to convince his subject to green-light the project.

Cunningham, traversing and capturing every social milieu of New York with an excited and democratic eye, has become recognized over the decades as one of NYC’s greatest living visual historians. But his private nature and determination to remain an invisible documentarian himself has made it nearly impossible for anyone to turn the camera his way. Even after agreeing to let Press and his two colleagues make their film, there was an inherent “catch me if you can” feeling throughout the process. But, as Press noted, Cunningham’s reluctant and eventually trusting nature with his filmmakers became a part of the story itself—just as much as Cunningham’s relationship the strangers he photographs creates a vivid and telling portrait of New York City.

Here, Press talks to us about his first documentary effort and the admirable, if difficult, tenacity of his subject.

Bill Cunningham New York” will open in New York on 16 March 2011 at Film Forum for and in Los Angeles on 23 March 2011.

billcun4.jpg

What was your first introduction to Bill Cunningham?

I was freelancing at the Times as an art director and I first met Bill that way. I actually did his page for him. And my partner and husband Philip Gefter was a photo editor and wrote about photography, so he had known Bill for years.

Why did you decide to do this film?

In a certain way, the biographical facts of his life were not as interesting to me as trying to capture his spirit and that joy, and something more abstract.
So I talked to Philip and told him that we should do this together, and we dragged Bill into a conference room at the New York TImes and told him we wanted to make a movie about him, and he just laughed. He couldn’t entertain the idea. It was so ridiculous to him. He didn’t think what he did was valuable—to anybody but himself.

How did you convince him to let you do this project and follow him so closely?

We just kept talking to him about it over the years. One day I said, “Bill I’m going to be out on the street and have a camera on me.'” I got him shooting on the street and he ignored me. That was eight years ago, and it was just a day’s worth of footage in the drawer. And then about two years ago he was being given an award and he didn’t want to accept it, so I offered to cut together this footage I had and showed it, and he saw it and really liked it. I think that was the turning point. He sort of got that I got him and I understood who he was. It was a combination of that, his relationship with me and with Philip that we were able to make the movie. The short version is that we wore him down.

billcun2.jpg

When did you start shooting?

We started shooting September 2008, around Fashion Week. It was a year of shooting and then a year of editing.

Your other films are narratives. Had it occurred to you to do a documentary before?

I never thought to make a documentary. It’s just that he was such a strong character: how he lived his life, his ethics, his spirit, his obsessive dedication to his work. So in a way he is like a narrative character. I approached the movie less like a documentary and more like a narrative, with the way I structured it and the way it was edited. It felt more like early Robert Altman, sort of “Nashville”-like. There were all these eccentric characters, and at the center of the collage, there was Bill. I would say Altman was the biggest influence in how I was thinking about this movie. And I was also trying to mirror Bill’s column, which is a collage of all these different elements.

billcun1.jpg

What were some of the challenges posed when trying to film, especially on the streets of New York?

Once Bill agreed to be filmed, it wasn’t like he just gave us access. It was always a negotiation. There was no crew. It was just me, Philip and
Tony Cenicola a staff photographer at the New York Times, who had never actually shot a movie, but who Bill knew and trusted, joining me as cinematographer. The three of us would try to be as invisible as possible. I was living at the New York Times for years, waiting to have his cooperation and hanging around where he was working—we had a desk nearby—and there were months of negotiations to be able to follow him at night. And then slowly over time, he realized we weren’t going away. When he let us into his apartment, it was a miracle. No one had ever really been in his apartment, especially with a camera. And then he introduced us to his neighbors. Over time, I think he respected our doggedness and he kind of recognized himself in that. That’s how he works. He’s just constantly working and never giving up.

Would you say your filming process was a reflection of his own method?

For him being invisible is the most important thing for doing his work—that he can just stand on the street and be quick and invisible to get the shot that he wants. I tried to mimic that in the way I shot it.

How did you choose to handle the political issue of Bill and several other artists being forced out of the Carnegie Hall apartments, which occurred while you were shooting?

Continue reading…

I didn’t want to take a side. I just wanted to point it out there in the kind of most non-judgmental way. I wanted the whole movie to be a reflection of Bill, and while he obviously has his own opinions, he presents what he sees. And so the movie wasn’t an ethics thing. I have my own opinions about it, but I tried to present it as straightforwardly as possible. The Carnegie people had an opportunity to comment, but they didn’t.

How conscious was your decision to avoid any commentary on other street-style photographers?

To be honest, I didn’t give it much thought. I was really just focused on capturing what Bill does. My interest was in capturing this person, the spirit of this being and what it all means. And trying to show it as a portrait of New York City through the lens of this person.

Did he ever have any comments or thoughts about this new genre?

It never came up. But the thing about Bill, actually, is that he knows about everything. He’s so aware of everything, even beyond style and design and fashion. He’s very politically aware. He really knows what’s going on. He definitely knows that there are other people doing it, but he’s just so focused on his own work that it doesn’t concern him.

What influenced your choices for the film’s soundtrack?

It was interesting trying to figure out what the sound would be musically. I was listening to a lot of music, and one day heard a song by the Lounge Lizards and thought it was perfect for the opening I already had in mind. It had the perfect combination of urban, rhythm, quirkiness and heart, and originality and eccentricity. And then what was really interesting, when I was scoring the rest of the film, I went back to all this John Lurie music—John Lurie and the Lounge Lizards—and for whatever magical reason, it just captured New York and Bill.

As you developed this intimacy with Bill as your subject, were there any questions you found difficult to ask?

When you ask Bill a personal question, you never quite get a straight answer. We basically know all the facts of his life, where he’s from and how many siblings he had, but those kinds of biographical facts—it’s just not what he’s about for me or why I wanted to make a movie. I wasn’t interested in making a biopic but I completely appreciate there are people who say they want to know more about his family and his childhood and that’s completely valid, but that would have been a different movie.

Looking at Bill as such a straight shooter—his level of integrity is so hard to come by these days—and in a way, he’s such a genuine documentarian himself. Did you take any lessons from him as you were making this film about him?

Absolutely. It really was something that was so important for me to capture that. In terms of taking away something from knowing Bill and making the movie with him—this may sound very sentimental, but I think we all wake up everyday deciding how we’re going to live our lives, and being around Bill and seeing his ethics and the joy that he gets from his work, it was actually very instructional and inspirational to me. Spending two years with Bill making this movie really did that. You find yourself asking that question: how do you live an ethical, honest life?

Has Bill seen the film?

No. He’s never seen it. We tried to get him to see it, but he just has no interest. He’s never even listened to his online narratives, his weekly slideshows, for the Times. It just doesn’t concern him.


Kinetica Art Fair

Art and tech collide in a London exhibit devoted to the beauty of motion

kineticart10.jpg kineticart11.jpg

At the entrance of the Kinetica Art Fair a confusing installation—a wall of brightly-lit exit signs—greets visitors. The exhibition gets no less paradoxical once you enter as life-like skeletons with crow skulls gesture and click their beaks above in amazingly realistic ways (though their bodies are actually robotic arms built by Dutch artist Christiaan Zwanikken).

kineticart1.jpg kineticart2.jpg

An unusual event now in its third year, this London fair brings together kinetic, electronic, robotic, sound and light art works. Our first thought was that it’s a physical coming to life of the One Dot Zero Robotica film that we saw last year, which as it happens is also showing at Kinetica. An edgy underground atmosphere pervades the exhibition, both literally, being held in the vast basement space of the Ambika P3 gallery, and stylistically with a host of international artists who are, in the best sense, geektastic.

Robotic and kinetic works especially summon images of hours tinkering in workshops to make these extraordinary creations. For example, a robotic arm capable of drawing or, one of my favorites, the handsome Interference Machine by Norwegian artist Kristoffer Myskja—a toy that makes two glasses filled with water sing by substituting a robot for a fingertip to rub the rim of the glass.

kineticart4.jpg artkinetic4.jpg

Overall, the impression at Kinetica was a celebration of the intricate delicacy of technology, not only in robotics but also a chirping egg nest light by Tomomi Sayuda, infinitely reflected LED light works by Hans Kotter, and even in digitally-cut clothing. Skin Graph, a new fashion label, uses the 3D topographical data from our bodies, tracing the contours of our physical form to create bespoke leather clothing—in effect, a second skin.

kineticart5.jpg

Those in London can check out the show through 6 February 2011.


My First Dictionary

Book of cleverly corrupt definitions teaches big kids the facts of life

firstdic1.jpg firstdic2.jpg

First time author Ross Horsley tackles the challenge of teaching young minds with a playfully disturbing dictionary. An innocent endeavor at first blush, “My First Dictionary” is actually filled with inappropriate definitions for its roster of simple words, accented by charming Norman Rockwell-esque illustrations that are actually taken from the 1977 book “The Giant Picture Dictionary for Boys and Girls.”

firstdic3.jpg

For example, Horsley defines the word abandon as, “Father is trying to abandon us” and pocketbook as “a small bag used for carrying money and xanax.” Even though it is wildly inappropriate for kids we cant stop reading it ourselves.

firstdic6.jpg firstdic8.jpg

“My First Dictionary” sells from Harper Collins and Amazon.