Studio Visit: Eskayel

Shanan Campanaro reflects on her “Poolside” collection and the art of designing patterns
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Using little more than Muji gel ink pens Shanan Campanaro creates highly detailed drawings then degrades them with a dash of water to reveal unexpected patterns for her line of wallpaper, pillows and scarves, Eskayel. Her simple set of tools provides the foundation for an extensive process that involves painting and then digital manipulating her analog work. We recently caught up with the self-proclaimed neat freak at her Williamsburg studio to learn more about her latest collection, and the surprising way in which she creates such whimsically structured motifs.

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Campanaro starts by drawing, usually working small. She uses the water-soluble Muji pens (or sometimes Higgins inks) to paint primarily pictures of animals, and then distorts the lines by flicking water onto the paper to make the ink bleed. “I like to work on a couple pieces of paper on top of each other so that it sinks through, and then I’ll draw the same thing a couple of times,” she explains. While she prefers pens over brushes for cleaner lines, she then counteracts that precision with a loose application of water. Campanaro demonstrated her method for us on a painting of a rooster she is doing for an upcoming exhibition called “Rare Birds”. Although “everything comes from a painting”, at the end of the day “everything has to be done on the computer”.

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While she says she always paints stuff “not for wallpaper”, this medium is often at the back of her mind. While painting, Campanaro tends to notice an element that might look good as wallpaper so she’ll stop and photograph the work at that point because, she explains, “for the painting to have more contrast and depth and look good as a painting, you kind of have to ruin the part that was good as wallpaper.”

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The creation of the pattern marks the beginning of the digital aspect of the process. After scanning in a photograph of her painting, she begins to inspect it in Photoshop, looking for interesting areas where the ink has bled. This begins a lengthy trial-and-error process where Campanaro zooms in on and crops a fraction of the painting, copies it, multiplies it and decides if it makes a harmonious pattern. As we saw on our visit, this part of the operation relies heavily on Campanaro’s trained artistic eye and experience as a designer.

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The Central St. Martins grad is mostly inspired by travel, and she enjoys bohemian settings in places like Indonesia, Mexico or Capri. These destinations tend to show up as the themes for her collections, although her latest, “Poolside“, draws from time spent back home at her parents’ house in San Diego. The collection includes eight different patterns, and spans bold geometric designs in “Solitaire” to the abstract motif of “Splash”.

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Campanaro—who’s also an unexpected sneaker freak—likes working in the commercial realm of art. After receiving her degree in fine art, she began looking for jobs at streetwear labels and ended up making T-shirts in London with two friends from school. This actually marked the beginning of Eskayel, whose name is a phonetic combination of their initials, S, K and L. The company is now a solo act with a different purpose, but Campanaro still collaborates frequently, and she co-founded the charitable arts organization FOOLSGOLD with her friend Maria Kozak, where many of her wildlife paintings end up on display.

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The industrious designer never stops thinking of ways to expand her talents. Whether experimenting with different types of paper, creating custom textiles for furniture upholstery or adding new products to her shop—last year she threw woven baskets into the mix of wares comprising her online shop—Campanaro continues to successfully combine fine art with commercial sensibility. Keep an eye out for her at the Javits Center during the upcoming ICFF in NYC, and for her next collection, “Akimbo”, debuting July 2012.

Images by Karen Day. See more in the slideshow below.


Secret Art Show

Mysterious works from Brooklyn artists in a one-night gallery show
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Keren Richter—who last year had us reading Space is the Place, a psychedelic art zine inspired by the eponymous film by Sun Ra—has teamed up with designer Nanse Kawashima to present “Secret”, an art exhibition dedicated to the many faces of the unknown. The one-night-only show, which is composed almost entirely of Brooklyn artists, will take place in Richter’s Williamsburg studio space. While reflecting the community of local talent, the show is also a celebration of eclectic mediums.

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Richter’s deliberately cryptic description of the Secret Art Show details few certainties. There will be 25 artists from diverse backgrounds ranging from jewelry design to music video directing to painting. All works channel the notion of secrecy in some form—veiling and darkness a common thread throughout. Not even Richter is quite sure what some of the artists have in mind. There may also be a peep show.

Participants include Richter, Eva Tuerbl, Josie Miner, Caris Reid, ByKenyan , Wyeth Hansen and Symbols + Rituals, among others.

SECRET

29 March 2012 from 7-10pm

109 South 5th Street #500

Williamsburg, Brooklyn, NY 11211


The String Orchestra of Brooklyn

A collaborative ensemble of musicians brings the symphony to NYC parks

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The String Orchestra of Brooklyn (SOB) is committed to an inclusive approach to music-making, opening up their expert ensemble to a range of site-specific musical experiments and collaborations with musicians from around the greater New York area. Due to the orchestra’s smaller size and rotating cast of volunteer musicians, they are able to explore a more obscure repertoire and adapt to different venues. “What sets us apart from other orchestras is our versatility and willingness to try anything that’s out there,” explains executive director and founder Eli Spindel. “We have the flexibility to take risks and follow our musical curiosity wherever it might lead.”

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In late 2011, the SOB collaborated with American Opera Projects, presenting Philip Glass’ Kafka-based opera “In the Penal Colony”. Many music lovers are familiar with Glass’ magnificent “Satyagraha”, but the SOB opted to bring the more obscure “Penal Colony” story to life instead, gaining the orchestra a spot on The New York Times’ Best of 2011 list.

The SOB will again team up with The Fort Greene Park Conservancy for the annual Parks Concert Series where city-dwellers may escape to enjoy a free evening of music in Fort Greene Park. The 2012 lineup will feature works by Fela Sowande, Noel Pointer, and Beethoven, taking place on 21 July 2012 at 6 p.m. in Fort Greene Park.

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The SOB will also be collaborating with ISSUE Project Room on String Theories 2012. String Theories has commissioned four composers—Anthony Coleman, Eric Wubbels, Spencer Yeh, and MV Carbon—to create performances on a scale larger than what is typically possible. The composers push the boundaries of the string repertoire through extended techniques, innovations in notation and improvisation, and new approaches to writing for large ensembles. Specifically, each of the performances focuses on a playful awareness of the orchestra’s physicality. “It will definitely get a bit rowdy,” Spindel says. “The resulting musical textures will be new to much of our audience.” String Theories 2012 will happen this Saturday, 17 March 2012 at 8pm in St. Ann’s Church in Brooklyn.

Keep up with the orchestra’s ever-changing repertoire and performance schedule on their blog.


Alpha Wave

Ethereal neon and abstract forms in new work by Evan Gruzis

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Opening tomorrow at Duve Berlin, an exhibition of new work by Evan Gruzis explores the interstices of waking and dreaming life. “Alpha Wave” derives its aesthetic from the afterimage effect—the “burning” of an image on ones vision after the original image has disappeared. Gruzis—a young artist whose resume already boasts work in the Whitney Museum Collection and a solo show at Deitch—presents a series of hauntingly minimal works on paper and through video.

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While his past work bears the mark of nostalgia for Hollywood of the 1980s—a byproduct of his time spent in LA—this collection marks significant growth. Gruzis ditches pop elements in favor of a more streamlined look, going beyond gloss and neon to convey the “alpha wave” narrative throughout the work. While he made a name for himself based on his masterful employment of india ink, the artist has turned mainly to watercolor in this collection. Gruzis uses a liberal amount of water in the creation of his gradients, which are painted on “arches aquarelle” paper. Stretching the paint, he slowly builds layers to create his transitions. The photorealistic effect looks to be the product of a neon light show or early digital design. In addition to watercolor, Gruzis employs graphite and acrylic into most of the works that are included in Alpha Wave.

One of the standout works, “Movie”, is a purple canvas of watercolor, gouache, india ink and spray paint. Highlighted with pinpoints of star-like specks, the somber, glowing piece conveys a unique effect that serves as testament to Gruzis’ curious experimentation.

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The exhibition also includes “TV”, an abstract video work of projected LED lights. Interpretive and hypnotic, the installation carries Gruzis’ dream-like sensibility. Gruzis first made his way onto our radar last year in his collaboration with Rafael de Cardenas called Exotic Beta, though this exhibition certainly sets him apart in his own right.

“Alpha Wave” will be on view at Duve Berlin through 20 April 2012.

Duve Berlin

9 March – 20 April 2012

Invalidenstr. 90

Berlin, DE 10115


The Better Bacon Book

Maximize the meat experience with this DIY guide

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To true pork connoisseurs, store-bought bacon is an affront to the culinary arts. Ramp up your cured meat game by embracing the tastiest of DIY projects: homemade bacon. “The Better Bacon Book” marks the latest iPad-exclusive how-to publication in Open Air Publishing‘s digital instructional series. This edition takes you through adventures in everyone’s favorite breakfast meat, covering everything from setup and curing to slicing and frying. Hailed by chefs around the world for its seemingly limitless potential, bacon and its counterparts are carefully detailed in this indispensable guide.

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Tom Mylan, executive butcher at The Meat Hook in Brooklyn, guides users through 20 instructional videos. The book contains tutorials for making slab, face and Canadian bacon, in addition to guanciale and pancetta. Mylan shows you how to butcher the meat, build your own smoker from a trash can and cook the perfect slice. For those not ready to dive fully into homemade bacon, the app also lists the top suppliers of mail-order bacon, curated by the author of “Zingerman’s Guide to Better Bacon“, Ari Weinzweigeg.

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The Better Bacon Book also includes recipes from top restaurants and bars, so whether you’re spreading on some bacon jam or slurping down a plate of clams with rye whisky and bacon, there are endless options to get your pork belly fix. Open Air has upped its game in this app, including a feature to allow users to zoom into pig parts at various moments in the instruction videos called “image hotspots”. The book’s completely original content is now available for purchase from the iTunes App Store.


Pearl and the Beard

The Brooklyn band ditches discs for posters printed with download codes

By: Davey Barrett

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At the close of a recent show at the Music Hall of Williamsburg, Jocelyn Mackenzie of Brooklyn-based band Pearl and the Beard held a screen-printed poster before a stupefied, packed house. Foregoing the disposable medium of CDs or LPs, the band employs the poster as the only tangible key to the band’s “Prodigal Daughter Extended Single” release.

“The music industry has changed and a new model needs to be discovered to get a band’s message across,” Mackenzie announced. “The way that made sense for us to communicate with you was through art instead of shiny silver disks, which we throw out, or at least I do. So you can buy our single as a poster or a postcard with a download card on the back.” Merging design with music, the poster and postcard, designed by Jonathan Schoeck (of the band Larcenist), aptly match the overall aesthetic of the Prodigal Daughter Extended Single.

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Baroque inflections, gospel sensationalizing and mirthy back-room jazz mark the band’s character and, even in moments of darker introspection, an underbelly of clever wit shines through their performances. A brightly lit traipse across style and content, Pearl and the Beard’s music reflects the work of three songwriters: Mackenzie, Emily Hope Price and Jeremy Styles. All three members sing, accompanied by guitar, cello, glockenspiel and melodica, among others. Contagious hooks cross both belting vocals and dynamic cadence. The Extended Single itself contains one solo track from each of the three artists, drawing into relief each of their strengths.

The melancholic drone of indie rock today hints that music need not be an enjoyable experience, that thoughts and lyrics must be heavy in order to carry weight. Pearl and the Beard refutes this, imploring the audience to “Enjoy yourself, because we certainly are.”

With an innovative packaging strategy, an opening slot on the current Ani DiFranco and upcoming Ingrid Michaelson tours, Pearl and the Beard is poised for an increasing wave of attention. Check out their recently debuted music video for “Prodigal Daughter” and get the full Extended Single here.


Studio Visit: John O’Reilly

Ground up bones and porcelain dust in a series of biological sculptures

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In advance of his first solo exhibition “I stand and look at them long and long” at RH Gallery, we stopped by John O’Reilly‘s Brooklyn studio to see what the young artist had on tap. The warehouse space is shared between four sculptural artists working with communal equipment and unparalleled resourcefulness. O’Reilly, for his part, mixes porcelain with bone powder and polyrethane resin to cast realistic biological altarpieces from silicone molds.

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The artist let us in on the process behind his creations, which all start off as clay models. Silicone is applied by brush to the clay forms until the film reaches a 1/4-inch thickness. The mold is cut along a set of seams and reattached in a plaster mastermold for rigidity. The bone powder comes from his dog’s leftovers, pulverized in the studio and added to the resin and porcelain mixture to create a translucent, off-white coloration.

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To create the forms, O’Reilly pulls from his experience with silverpoint drawing. “I’ve only been doing sculpture for the last two or three years,” he explains. “I look at these things as drawings in space—just a line that connects to another line. And you keep configurating a matrix of lines to create the form.” Standing in front of a wire approximation of his subject, the artist uses dabs of clay on a stick to apply and modify the shapes. When he finds a line he likes, he builds the entire piece around it.

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The artist chose porcelain for its likeness to skin. “It’s got that ghost-like, transcendental quality,” says O’Reilly. For the works in black, he added graphite to the resin mixture and finished the surface with another graphite application. The centerpiece work “Welle” is a graphite sculpture of a dead pup. When asked about the high-contrast, emaciated quality of his subjects, the artists explains, “It feels like the more I can dig in, the more I can release energy from the piece. And that’s basically what you’re trying to do—to create a circulatory system of lines, a matrix of feelings and emotions.”

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While he enjoys sculpture, O’Reilly sees the laborious process as an ultimate hindrance to creativity. “Origins” is a wall piece that shows the cavity of a pig and is inspired by Andy Warhol’s series of Rorschach paintings. While he was working on the piece—which can take months—the artist developed a method of molding paint inside a folded, translucent sheet. O’Reilly sees potential in the series of inkblot-style X-rays, though the work won’t be featured in the upcoming exhibition.

Many of the pieces bear the mark of the artist’s Christian upbringing. The off-white color is reminiscent of the Italian marbles from renaissance masters, and the artist freely refers to his works as altarpieces. The anguished expressiveness of the occasionally mutilated forms is balanced by the calm placidity of others, both attributes recalling biblical moments and emotions.

“I stand and look at them long and long” opens 6 March, 2012 at the RH Gallery in New York. See more images of O’Reilly’s studio in our slideshow.

RH Gallery

137 Duane Street

New York, NY 10013


Deflected

Brook&Lyn’s light-reflecting amulets inspired by superstitious customs
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As a follow-up to her popular debut lineup of agate pendant necklaces and body wraps, the stark leather and mirror pieces that comprise Mimi Jung‘s quietly powerful “Deflected” collection reveal an artistic progression that’s both varied and cohesive.

Inspired by a friend’s great-grandmother who regularly hid a mirror under her blouse to ward off evil spirits, Jung wanted to create a collection based on the idea of controlling one’s own well-being through the power of deflection. Amulet necklaces constructed from folded pieces of thick saddle leather, patina-covered mirrors that hang from a twisted cotton cord over one’s breastplate and molded-leather rings call to mind a mini hand-shield fit for a superheroine.

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Brooklyn-based Jung took the concept of self-protection one step further, telling us that she selected a circle as the central shape running through her collection because it has been a symbol of defense throughout history in various cultures. The beautifully clouded, aged mirrors come from Brooklyn as well. The artist responsible for hand-antiquing them is extremely protective of his methods, Jung explains, recalling an instance in which he nearly banned her from his studio for trying to take his picture.

Pieces range from $66-$363 and are available online at Brook&Lyn.
See the collection in this haunting video lookbook.


Artemas Quibble

Modern leather goods inspired by ancient techniques
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A self-taught woodworker, Jason Ross‘ foray into leather goods happened by chance. While working on a furniture project in a friend’s woodshop, Ross noticed a band saw running on a leather belt and was so impressed it still worked that he “immediately contacted the company and bought scraps by the pound,” he says. The natural artisan taught himself how to manipulate his newfound medium and began integrating leather into his woodworking.

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Today Ross peddles his expertly crafted leather accessories under the moniker Artemas Quibble, a name that suggests his continued interest in ancient objects and techniques. Working out of his studio in Brooklyn, Ross and his team create each belt, bag and jewelry item by hand for his own label as well as for his collaboration with Donna Karan.

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“I enjoy reading how archaeologists think through the purpose of things and materials,” Ross explains. Gleaning insight from his favorite archaeology website, Ross learns from the methods of thinking and draws conclusions from fragmented evidence. These informed interpretations provide a foundation of authenticity for a mien blending the primitive with the modern. “I generally look for an aesthetically pleasing decorative or functional element that can’t be traced to one culture or another,” he notes.

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Ross’ understanding of material also stems from his father—the inventor of the first plastic push-pin for Moore Push-Pin—who taught him about memory in materials. This guidance helped Ross develop one of his ingenious techniques, based on a “rivet-less” closure system in which a piece of leather is looped around itself or a piece of hardware and strung through a hole to hold it firmly in place without any give, even as the hide wears over time.

The idea really clicked when Ross began deconstructing an African hunting bag given to him by Graham Cassie, on which, he says, “leather thongs were stitched through holes to hold the various panels of the bag together.” He explains, “I could not, in most cases pull the old straps through the holes. The holes had been stretched and seemed to lock around the leather. I was forced to cut the straps in order to deconstruct the leather.” Ross uses the ancient concept to lock leather to leather as a way of holding hardware, which he also forges in his workshop.

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A former Calvin Klein model, Ross’ interest in accessories seems like a natural progression, but his obsession with his craft goes beyond a connection to fashion. “I think that I appreciate beauty in discarded objects and remake those things, perhaps there is a connection to reading about excavations and discovery,” he says. The pieces he creates truly reflect his thoughtful nature and talent for combining the past with the future.

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Select Artemas Quibble items sells online, as well as at Urban Zen and ABC Carpet & Home in NYC. See more images in the slideshow below.

Photos by Ruediger Glatz.


Studio Visit: Angel Otero

Instinctual layered paintings driven by process
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As soon as you enter Puerto Rican artist Angel Otero‘s Brooklyn work loft, the intense smell of paint nearly stops you at the door. Shelves housing copious tubes of oil paint and rows of Montana spray cans lining the back walls allude to the strong odor, but it’s the stacks of work drying on wooden pallets surrounding the space that are really the culprit. But the extraordinary aroma is actually the upshot to Otero’s distinct artistic technique, one which involves an extensive process of building up layers of paint on plexiglass before methodically scraping them off.

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“I’ve always been intrigued by process,” says Otero. The artist, who received his MFA from the School of the Art Institute of Chicago, typically allows materials to inform his work. While there is substance to his paintings, he’s not driven by the challenge of depicting a personal narrative. Instead his work reflects his ambition in taking painting to another level and his ability to work successfully off of sheer impulse.

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“The process kind of starts with usually me painting on plexiglass,” he says. “After I do the painting, I cover it with more oil paint, the whole thing. And then I do more layers of oil paint. Then eventually it goes to the floor and I cover it with a black color, a pigment of oil paint. The pigment of black is the most rubberish one. Pigments come from rocks, so that means they are all different types of materials which dry differently toward the different oil mediums. Black is the one that when it’s dry, stays the most malleable. So the last layer of all the paintings I do, I cover with black—a thick layer of black—and then they go to dry.

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Otero initially came to this process by recycling paint as a way of saving money and resources while he was in school. He would scrape the paint off works he was dissatisfied with and add it to a growing mountain of remnant oil paint. Eventually, he started to form the clumps into flower shapes and spray paint them silver, which on the canvas created the illusion of working with tin foil. “From there it developed slowly, in some way,” he explains. “But it felt good because I was using a material that I wanted—oil paint—and at the same time I had found a great process that is pretty unique, and whatever I do, people are going to be more attracted toward ‘how did you do it’ rather than ‘what is it about’?”

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While this was an important stylistic shift for Otero, it also laid the foundation for what would become his signature technique of creating oil skins on glass. After his mountain of dried paint diminished, he began putting paint in glasses to dry. He noticed, when reusing the glasses for the first time, that some of them were stained from the paint before it. “When I scraped that second layer, I noticed that it transferred the stains. I was like, ‘oh shit, I could paint on glass, cover it with paint and then scrape it, and I would have a full sheet of paint that would have the painting that I did'”, he reveals.

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After several experiments Otero found specific types of oil paint that he could combine that would give him the tactile surface he desired, and one that would last for a long time. Once that process of strategically scraping layers of paint off of glass inch by inch using doctor blades was in place, he was able to begin playing with the leather-like layer of dried paint. After applying a thick layer of epoxy to a canvas, Otero and his two-person team would transfer the heavy skin to the canvas and begin folding in loose wrinkles.

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Although his style is certainly contemporary, Otero is interested in experimenting with compositions that contrast the old with the new. He will recreate a work by French classicist Nicolas Poussin, painting it to detailed perfection on glass. Then he covers the painting in more oil paint that “will eventually be the background”, lets it dry, possibly repeats this step and then begins scraping the skin off the glass in a way that exposes the various layers at different points in the composition. In this way, the painting becomes almost like a print or a collage.

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Otero’s approach has been attracting attention since his days at art school. Having honed his technique with confidence, he is able to keep experimenting—both with painting and his second love, sculpture—producing works that are meaningful in both appearance and form.

His latest body of work will soon be on display at Istanbul ’74, his first solo show in the Turkish metropolis. The exhibition, put on in partnership with NYC’s Lehmann Maupin Gallery, opens 23 February 2012 and runs through 17 March 2012.

Photos by BHP. See more images of Otero’s studio in the slideshow below.