Overground by DZHUS
Posted in: Autumn Winter 2013
Angular textured garments are accessorised with concrete cuffs in the Autumn Winter 2013 collection by Ukrainian fashion brand DZHUS.
DZHUS founder Irina Dzhus created geometric shapes from stiff materials to exaggerate silhouettes across the shoulders.
“I analysed shapes and structures of monumental constructions and tried my best to embody their principles in the silhouettes and cut of my designs,” Dzhus told Dezeen.
A floor-length white dress with a high neck is detailed with two pleats at the front, which soften as they flare out down the length of the garment.
Other dresses in metallic fabric have straight profiles, though can be cinched at the waist by a wide grey belt in the same material.
Crinkled paper-like material is folded into shapes to create an effect similar to origami.
“I chose textiles that show strong association with building materials and atmosphere,” said Dzhus. “I used wrinkled and metallic fabrics, net, glimmering coppery silk, smoky chiffon and other peculiarly textured surfaces.”
One triangular top has a structured collar and waistband but loose sleeves so movement isn’t restricted. It is worn with a long blue pleated skirt.
A light grey tunic with a flat collar is cut into by darker diamond-shaped shoulder pieces and has gap in the front of the skirt.
Colours range from shades of rust and grey to deep orange and blue. Zips and square buttons provide details.
The square and round chunky concrete bracelets were made in collaboration with MEL Design.
Named Overground, the collection is intended to reference urban forms and industrial objects.
“This word makes an ironic analogy with ‘underground’ as a creative conception, and at the same time it is an eloquent statement about the grandiose idea of the collection glorifying sublime industrial objects,” said Dzhus.
The range was shown at Ukrainian Fashion Week and Kiev Fashion Days Showroom earlier this year. Photography is by Olga Nepravda.
Our coverage of Autumn Winter 2013 fashion collections includes Aina Beck’s foil-printed attire and Jaimee McKenna’s pleated blue garments.
See more collections from Autumn Winter 2013 »
See all our stories about fashion »
Here is some more information from the designer:
DZHUS conceptual wear brand was founded in 2010 by a Ukrainian designer Irina Dzhus who had graduated from Kiev National University of Technologies and Design and had already worked as a fashion stylist for apparel, accessories and cosmetics campaigns as well as collaborated with celebrities.
The brand’s design concept is based on interaction and transformation of construction modules in order to create new aesthetics of the form – avant-garde and virtually archetypical at the same time, categoric but variable.
An urbanistic Autumn Winter 2013 collection, Overground, was demonstrated at Ukrainian Fashion Week New Names Show and Mercedes-Benz Kiev Fashion Days Showroom.
Architectonical design of the collection interprets monumental structure of industrial objects. Style of the garments glorifies sublime technocratic aesthetics and functionalist utilitarian constructions.
High quality of specifically textured fabrics equalises commercial aspect of the pieces with their grandiose idea.
DZHUS advertising campaign is created by fashion photographer Olga Nepravda. Monolithic concrete cuffs were manufactured in collaboration with MEL Design.
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by DZHUS appeared first on Dezeen.
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