Orthopedic practices to correct body deformities influenced the leather straps and buckles in this fashion collection, presented by Marina Hoermanseder at Graduate Fashion Week earlier this week (+ slideshow).
Vegetable-tanned leather is double-sided and painted red on the reverse to create patterns where sections are flipped over.
“I became absolutely passionate about working with leather and manipulating it,” Hoermanseder told Dezeen. “I experimented a lot with moulding, twisting, buckling and strapping the leather around the body.”
Buckles secure twisted straps down the length of a perforated leather skirt and helmets worn after an accident informed the back of a visored hat.
A series of buckled bands form the sleeves of one top, which has a zip-up bodice and two wide shoulder panels clasped at the neck.
Straps are also fastened around the legs with metal studs, either over bare skin or white leggings.
In some cases the leather items are worn over ruffled tops in red, grey and white, designed to emulate skin maladies.
“The colourful silk ruffles were inspired by serious skin conditions such as smallpox and represent skin that is falling apart,” said Hoermanseder. “They provide a contrast to the stiff leather elements.”
Accessories include straps that fit around the head and cuffs that look like plaster casts, which can be attached to metal hooks at the breastbones of some tops.
“The accessories are my favourite,” the designer said. “Outside of the collection they work with casual clothes, adding a little fetish edge that’s still high fashion.”
Other garments are created by wrapping skin-coloured bandages around the body.
“My aim was to give women a spine, by giving them support and self-confidence in the world of fashion,” Hoermanseder concluded.
The collection formed part of the Esmod Berlin International University of Art for Fashion exhibition and show at Graduate Fashion Week 2013 in London earlier in the week.
We recently featured an exhibition in London that displayed fetishistic prosthetics.
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Marina Hoermanseder appeared first on Dezeen.
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