Vacuum-packed models installed at Iris van Herpen’s Paris Fashion Week show

Models were suspended in vacuums between plastic sheeting during Dutch fashion designer Iris van Herpen‘s Autumn Winter 2014 show at Paris Fashion Week.

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Iris van Herpen and Belgian artist Lawrence Malstaf created the installation in which models were held in midair between sheets of plastic.

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“Models float in the air, embryonic, seemingly weightless and in a meditative suspended animation,” said Van Herpen.

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Tubes extracted most of the air from the sheets to suck them tightly around the models, who posed in foetal or crouched positions wearing shimmering dresses.

Iris van Herpen AW14

The plastic sheets were hung in a line along the centre of the catwalk used to present Van Herpen’s ready to wear collection, titled Biopiracy.

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The collection included 3D-printed garments created in collaboration with Austrian architect Julia Koerner, who previously helped design a dress for Van Herpen’s Voltage collection presented last year.

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Van Herpen also worked with Dutch shoe brand United Nude to design crescent-shaped boots that were worn with the garments. Her show took place on Tuesday as part of Paris Fashion Week.

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Herpen’s Paris Fashion Week show
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United Nude designs sculptural shoes for Iris van Herpen’s Biopiracy fashion collection

United Nude designs sculptural shoes for Iris van Herpens Biopiracy fashion collection

Dutch shoe brand United Nude and fashion designer Iris van Herpen have collaborated to create crescent-shaped boots for her latest ready to wear collection shown at Paris Fashion Week.

United Nude designs sculptural shoes for Iris van Herpens Biopiracy fashion collection

For Van Herpen‘s Autumn Winter 2014 collection titled Biopiracy, the designer and United Nude worked together on two footwear designs.

United Nude designs sculptural shoes for Iris van Herpens Biopiracy fashion collection

The futuristic boots curve up and around the leg, encompassing the lower leg on both sides and looping behind the knee.

United Nude designs sculptural shoes for Iris van Herpens Biopiracy fashion collection

A long seam runs up the front of the upper before it opens at the top, while the back of the calf is left exposed.

United Nude designs sculptural shoes for Iris van Herpens Biopiracy fashion collection

Seven-inch-high heels cantilever from the back of the solid base, which continues the shape of the upper to the ground.

United Nude designs sculptural shoes for Iris van Herpens Biopiracy fashion collection

A peep-toe boot was also created in a similar style, but with a strap that wraps around the leg at ankle height instead of at the knee.

United Nude designs sculptural shoes for Iris van Herpens Biopiracy fashion collection

Black, cream and white leather was used for the designs, complimenting the colours of Van Herpen’s garments.

United Nude designs sculptural shoes for Iris van Herpens Biopiracy fashion collection

The Biopiracy collection was shown on Tuesday during Paris Fashion Week.

United Nude designs sculptural shoes for Iris van Herpens Biopiracy fashion collection

This is the ninth time United Nude and Van Herpen have worked together on footwear for her shows. “Working with Iris Van Herpen is each time a big challenge for us as she pushes boundaries with ideas for things that have never been done before,” said United Nude founder Rem D Koolhaas.

United Nude designs sculptural shoes for Iris van Herpens Biopiracy fashion collection

Last season they created 3D-printed shoes the resembled tree roots and the year before they added spikes made from semi-precious stones within the heels of platforms.

United Nude designs sculptural shoes for Iris van Herpens Biopiracy fashion collection

Dezeen interviewed Koolhaas last year, when he discussed United Nude’s “extreme theatre” shoe collaborations and talked about the future of 3D-printed footwear.

United Nude designs sculptural shoes for Iris van Herpens Biopiracy fashion collection

Here’s some information from Iris Van Herpen and United Nude:


United Nude make shoes with Iris Van Herpen for her Biopiracy collection

United Nude collaborates with Iris Van Herpen for shoes completing her collection for its 9th consecutive time. Nevertheless this is the first time that two instead of just one design graced the runway, in the form of the Biopiracy Boot and the Biopiracy peeptoe ankle Bootie, both on staggering 7 inch tall platform cantilevered heels.

United Nude designs sculptural shoes for Iris van Herpens Biopiracy fashion collection

The Biopiracy collection by Iris Van Herpen emerged from astonishment of companies’ patented human genes. As part of the show, Lawrence Malstaf created art installations, which developed the impression of models being weightless and breathless. In their half-sleep they seem bio-hacked, to slow down time and energy. Iris van Herpen and Lawrence Malstaf experiment with living objects, kinetic architecture and physical interaction through fashion in installation art.

United Nude designs sculptural shoes for Iris van Herpens Biopiracy fashion collection

A 3D printing collaboration with Julia Koerner and Materialise fuses the artisanal with the technical to create a kinetic dress which dances as it amplifies bodily movement. The Iris Van Herpen × United Nude Boot overrules the natural shape of the foot; this makes the graphically leather moulded boots futuristic sculptures extending the legs with a new silhouette into motion. Iris Van Herpen and United Nude is a match made in heaven from day one, as they are both not afraid of breaking boundaries by experimentation with design and technology.

United Nude designs sculptural shoes for Iris van Herpens Biopiracy fashion collection

Rem D Koolhaas: “Working with Iris Van Herpen is each time a big challenge for us as she pushes boundaries with ideas for things that have never been done before. Collaboration partners like Iris Van Herpen and Zaha Hadid give us way for our continuation in re-inventing shoes. United Nude was originally founded on this principle with our sculptural sandals just over ten years ago; breaking the rules of conventional ladies shoe-making, not for the sake if breaking them, but simply by not knowing them.”

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Iris van Herpen’s Biopiracy fashion collection
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Gareth Pugh dresses models like abominable snowmen and wind-up toys

Gareth Pugh dresses models like abominable snowmen and wind-up toys

Giant sheepskins, crumpled metallic leather and plastic sheets adorned models at fashion designer Gareth Pugh‘s Autumn Winter 2014 show during Paris Fashion Week.

Gareth Pugh dresses models like abominable snowmen and wind-up toys

Pugh washed out the palette for his latest collection, predominantly using white furs and plastics to create garments with exaggerated silhouettes.

Gareth Pugh dresses models like abominable snowmen and wind-up toys

A huge key for winding up old-fashioned clockwork toys protruded from the back of a dress that zipped up at the front.

Gareth Pugh dresses models like abominable snowmen and wind-up toys

Fluffy outfits were accompanied by wide-brimmed hats with lengthened crowns to further distort the silhouette.

Gareth Pugh dresses models like abominable snowmen and wind-up toys

One top was formed from a transparent piece of plastic tied around the waist and continued up as a flat sheet to the eye line.

Gareth Pugh dresses models like abominable snowmen and wind-up toys

A range of garments were created in metallic leather, which was bunched up and crinkled to create texture and warp the reflections.

Gareth Pugh dresses models like abominable snowmen and wind-up toys

PVC was tied into halter necks, wrapped to form waistbands and scrunched into skirts, and then worn over cream dresses.

Gareth Pugh dresses models like abominable snowmen and wind-up toys

Coats also included a layer of see-through plastic over the top, which extended past the hems.

Gareth Pugh dresses models like abominable snowmen and wind-up toys

More tops were formed from overlapping squares of white plastic so they appeared pixellated.

Gareth Pugh dresses models like abominable snowmen and wind-up toys

Twisting trousers continued over the shoes, creating the illusion of longer legs.

Gareth Pugh dresses models like abominable snowmen and wind-up toys

Models’ hands were covered in chalk and all without hats wore cream hair nets.

Gareth Pugh dresses models like abominable snowmen and wind-up toys

The show took place yesterday as part of Paris Fashion Week, which continues until 5 March.

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snowmen and wind-up toys
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