Silicon details outline garments in Xiao Li’s Autumn Winter 2014 collection

Silicon details outline garments in Xiao Li's Autumn Winter 2014 collection

Silicon details and latex panels featured in Royal College of Art graduate Xiao Li’s first London Fashion Week show.

Silicon details outline garments in Xiao Li's Autumn Winter 2014 collection

Xiao Li‘s Autumn Winter 2014 collection included sections of latex that were moulded against knitwear to create texture.

Silicon details outline garments in Xiao Li's Autumn Winter 2014 collection

Bumpy silicon strips were used around cuffs, necklines and hems, as well as to highlight pockets and seams.

Silicon details outline garments in Xiao Li's Autumn Winter 2014 collection

Garments made from meshed sports material included bomber-style jackets and skirts. The porous fabric was also formed into billowing sleeves.

Silicon details outline garments in Xiao Li's Autumn Winter 2014 collection

The icy palette of white and powder blue was influenced by the landscape of Iceland.

Silicon details outline garments in Xiao Li's Autumn Winter 2014 collection

“Crisp shades of blue are injected onto a cool of solitary white base and silhouettes are accented with chalky forms of silicon,” said the designer.

Silicon details outline garments in Xiao Li's Autumn Winter 2014 collection

A darker blue was used to create a stiff moulded top and a two-piece outfit with hems that appeared to be frosted.

Silicon details outline garments in Xiao Li's Autumn Winter 2014 collection

Panels of latex have been created in shapes traditionally found in denim pieces, such as the top of a pair of dungarees and chunky pockets fronts.

Silicon details outline garments in Xiao Li's Autumn Winter 2014 collection

Li was presented the Merit Award at the Fashion Scout talent showcase, which took place during London Fashion Week earlier this month.

Silicon details outline garments in Xiao Li's Autumn Winter 2014 collection

She graduated from London’s Royal College of Art last year and showed plump pastel silicone garments moulded from knitwear as part of her final collection.

Silicon details outline garments in Xiao Li's Autumn Winter 2014 collection

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Colour-changing ink transforms flame-engulfed headdress by Lauren Bowker

Alchemist Lauren Bowker applied heat-sensitive ink to a sculptural leather garment and used fire to alter its colour during a presentation for her company The Unseen (+ movie).

Coinciding with London Fashion Week earlier this month, Bowker’s design house The Unseen debuted a series of garments embedded with her colour-changing ink at an event in the Dead House – a series of vaulted passages beneath Somerset House where her studio is located.

Colour-changing ink transforms flame-engulfed headdress by Lauren Bowker

She created a giant black headdress made from overlapping layers of hand-stitched leather that engulfed the wearer like a shell, completely covering the head and extending down past the hips.

Colour-changing ink transforms flame-engulfed headdress by Lauren Bowker

During the presentation, a figure wearing this headdress was lead down a tunnel and positioned beneath a spotlight. Large flames erupted around the garment as wicks that protruded from the body were lit in unison.

Colour-changing ink transforms flame-engulfed headdress by Lauren Bowker

As the heat from the fire lapped the material, peacock-tail colours began to emerge and disperse across the surface. When the flames died down, the green and purple tones remained on the material as the model was lead back into the depths of the underground vaults.

Colour-changing ink transforms flame-engulfed headdress by Lauren Bowker

The collection also included garments worn over the torso that react to the movement of air, changing colour as environmental conditions shift in varying climates and when people come close or walk past.

“Seasonally each piece exhibits different tones of colour,” Bowker told Dezeen. “The summer environment will create a brightly coloured jacket that will dull in the wind to become black again, whereas in the winter the pieces are black until the wind hits them then revealing the colour shift.”

Colour-changing ink transforms flame-engulfed headdress by Lauren Bowker

Made in a similar layered style to the larger heat-responsive piece, these designs were displayed on models in alcoves along the subterranean tunnels.

“The fins in each jacket are shaped and designed to create turbulence trips within the wind – triggering the colour-change response,” said Bowker.

Colour-changing ink transforms flame-engulfed headdress by Lauren Bowker

She has previously applied different versions of her reactive inks to feathered garments that are sensitive to light.

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Graham Fan’s graduate fashion collection evokes metallic pan scourers

Graham Fan Central Saint Martins graduate collection 2014

The fibrous metallic garments in Central Saint Martins graduate Graham Fan’s London Fashion Week collection are reminiscent of wire brushes used for cleaning the dishes.

Graham Fan Central Saint Martins graduate collection 2014

MA Fashion graduate Graham Fan’s initial material experiments for his final collection were influenced by Thomas Heatherwick’s woven metal facade at Guy’s Hospital in London.

Graham Fan Central Saint Martins graduate collection 2014

“As I began working on this collection, I created a piece of woven plastic textile inspired by the exterior of [Heatherwick’s] Boiler Suit,” he told Dezeen.

Graham Fan Central Saint Martins graduate collection 2014

“I then looked into various traditional basketry and weaving sources, hoping to further craft some new textiles with different materials,” he added.

Graham Fan Central Saint Martins graduate collection 2014

Metallic plastic cords were handwoven unevenly to create patterns for the jackets, tops and dresses, plus skirts with 1950s shapes. The threads loop back on themselves to form turtlenecks, cuffs and hems.

Graham Fan Central Saint Martins graduate collection 2014

Fan incorporated mohair, leather strips and fish wire into some sections of the weave to add texture.

Graham Fan Central Saint Martins graduate collection 2014

“Elastic fish wire was woven through the materials horizontally and vertically in order to create the uneven shimmering surface,” said Fan.

Graham Fan Central Saint Martins graduate collection 2014

Fan showed the collection during the Central Saint Martins show at Somerset House last Friday, which took place as part of London Fashion Week.

Graham Fan Central Saint Martins graduate collection 2014

Fellow graduate Ondrej Adamek’s range featured huge satin flowers that conceal the faces of models. Photographs are courtesy of Catwalking.com.

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Giant flowers obscure models in Ondrej Adamek’s graduate fashion collection

Giant flowers in Ondrej Adamek's graduate fashion collection obscure models

Huge satin flowers conceal the faces of models walking in Central Saint Martins graduate Ondrej Adamek’s London Fashion Week debut.

Giant flowers in Ondrej Adamek's graduate fashion collection obscure models

Adamek created the flower shapes by gathering fabric at a central point, from which loose pleats emanated to the rounded hems.

Giant flowers in Ondrej Adamek's graduate fashion collection obscure models

These sections of the garments were positioned to cover the front of their wearer’s heads, forming unusual silhouettes.

Giant flowers in Ondrej Adamek's graduate fashion collection obscure models

Petal motifs were also used on shoulder pieces that stuck upward from sleeves and for the bottom of ankle-length dresses.

Giant flowers in Ondrej Adamek's graduate fashion collection obscure models

The collection contained blue and pink outfits, made entirely from satin.

Giant flowers in Ondrej Adamek's graduate fashion collection obscure models

Thick strip of darker and lighter fabrics were mixed to create the gowns, tops and skirts.

Giant flowers in Ondrej Adamek's graduate fashion collection obscure models

Adamek’s eight-piece collection was designed while studying on Central Saint Martins‘ MA Fashion course.

Giant flowers in Ondrej Adamek's graduate fashion collection obscure models

He was one of two designers awarded the L’Oréal Professional Creative Award at the London institution’s show last Friday during London Fashion Week, which concluded yesterday.

Giant flowers in Ondrej Adamek's graduate fashion collection obscure models

The award was judged by British fashion designer Christopher Kane, whose Autumn Winter 2014 collection featuring dresses created from overlapping layers of outlined fabric was also presented during the event.

Giant flowers in Ondrej Adamek's graduate fashion collection obscure models

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Adamek’s graduate fashion collection
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Outlined silk layers fold across dresses by Christopher Kane

Outlined silk layers cover dresses by Christopher Kane

Fashion designer Christopher Kane’s Autumn Winter 2014 collection shown at London Fashion Week features outlined layers of fabric that overlap like fluttering sheets of paper.

Outlined silk layers cover dresses by Christopher Kane

London-based designer Christopher Kane used multiple sections of translucent silk to create patterns on dresses in his latest collection.

Outlined silk layers cover dresses by Christopher Kane

Black fabric was outlined with white stitching and vice versa, while a peach-coloured cloth was also defined by black edges.

Outlined silk layers cover dresses by Christopher Kane

The outlines created ripples across the outfits when layers flapped as models walked down the runway.

Outlined silk layers cover dresses by Christopher Kane

This effect was applied to thigh-length dresses with various shoulder straps and necklines.

Outlined silk layers cover dresses by Christopher Kane

A grey top with triangular black pieces that rippled across the front was paired with a skirt with light grey layers that splayed from one hip.

Outlined silk layers cover dresses by Christopher Kane

In a rectangle-shaped design, a black sheet covered white pieces that resembled pages of a book.

Outlined silk layers cover dresses by Christopher Kane

The collection also included dresses with ribbon-like sleeves that folded back and forth down the arms.

Outlined silk layers cover dresses by Christopher Kane

Kane graduated from London’s Central Saint Martins in 2006 and his eponymous label is now owned by French company Kering.

Outlined silk layers cover dresses by Christopher Kane

He presented the collection yesterday as part of London Fashion Week, which wraps up today.

Outlined silk layers cover dresses by Christopher Kane

Also during the event, Pringle of Scotland debuted garments that incorporate laser-sintered nylon fabric.

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