Vandorst

Dutch designer tries his hand at travel-inspired leather goods
Vandorst1.jpg

After 18 years in the fashion industry, John van Dorst has made a foray into leather goods, debuting Vandorst in a test phase earlier this month. Van Dorst happened upon the leather accessories and diaries from his grandparents’ travels during the 1920s, which served as inspiration for the eponymous brand.

Vandorst9.jpg Vandorst10.jpg

Van Dorst quickly discovered the challenges of working with a prestige material like leather, spending a year and a half studying its finishes and nuances. Each of Vandorst’s six bags and four small pouches are created with the finest skins possible, sourced from central Europe and finished in the Netherlands’ last remaining tannery.

Vandorst7.jpg Vandorst6.jpg

Constructed in the same atelier that produces the country’s leather footwear, the pieces speak to the heritage of leatherwork in the Holland. “All this is my passion,” says Van Dorst. “I decided to make my own bags and accessories borne from a personal quest for the ideal product. The entire collection has been created in classic shapes like the briefcase, the sports bag and the tote.”

Vandorst8.jpg Vandorst3.jpg

As a nod to the travel accessories created for the wife of King George III of England, each bag is lined in royal blue. Those wishing to get their hands on a Vandorst bag will have to be patient—the line’s “launch” this month sent 15 individuals on a journey to road-test the various styles, but the collection won’t be available to the general public until next year. Van Dorst tells us that he’s been inundated by orders already, so visit the site’s contact page to get your name on the waiting list.


CH Capsule Video: Printemps Holiday Windows by Karl Lagerfeld

Our interview with the creative mastermind behind Paris’s most fantastic holiday installation

When Printemps invited us to Paris to interview Karl Lagerfeld about his designs for their holiday windows, we jumped on the opportunity. During our brief time with the cultural icon we talked about holidays, process and his abundance of creative resources. Just in time for the season, we present our latest video featuring the man who doesn’t care about holidays at all.


Fail+Canoe

Simple, rustic jewelry from two Austin artists captures the spirit of the Texas landscape

by Miranda Ward

Fail_Canoe5.jpg Fail_Canoe2.jpg

Launched last month, Fail+Canoe jewelry brings together two Austin-based designers, Christine Fail of Fail Jewelry and Natalie Davis of Canoe. Fail earned a BFA in studio art and starting creating her own handmade jewelry after spending more than five years with two major designers, while Davis—who works with butcher Ben Runkle to produce goods “crafted with a sartorial eye and workhorse materials to last a lifetime” for her Canoe line—is also a print designer and typography teacher.

Fail_Canoe3.jpg Fail_Canoe6.jpg

The collection of hammered brass and leather cuffs, necklaces and earrings combines what the designers call their “shared love of the dramatic Texas landscape” with a simultaneously rough and sophisticated aesthetic. Organic shapes and thick leather contrast with delicate details to capture, as Fail describes in a blog post, “the marriage of refined and elegant with rustic and natural.”

Fail+Canoe pieces can be purchased online through Fail or Canoe, as well as their Etsy shop, with prices starting at $56.


Ramdane

The quirky creative’s first store opens in NYC bringing a clever take on classic garments

ramdane1.jpg ramdane2.jpg

A year after French designer Ramdane Touhami moved his family and introduced Cire Trudon to New York with a whimsical boutique, he has since sold the company and moved on to his next venture—the eponymous store and house label Ramdane, characterized by classic garments for men and women updated with the designer’s signature sartorial twists. Using the finest fabrics sourced from well-known names in the industry, Touhami brings together high-quality and fashion at an accessible price point.

ramdane4.jpg ramdane5.jpg

As a nod to his collection‘s playful aesthetic and attention to textures and colors, the exterior facade of the Nolita boutique has been draped in woven wool surrounding the neon orange doors; the interior space is furnished with large, custom-made stone slab counters carved from single pieces of rock in upstate New York. Inside there’s an anything-goes atmosphere—after all, the creative maestro Touhani is not only a designer, but also a DJ, director, artist and journalist—with garments hanging freely from the ceiling or folded on counters, each accented with their own unique patterns and colors—a style central to the Ramdane aesthetic.

ramdane6.jpg ramdane8.jpg

The store will eventually carry a range of products—furniture, accessories, clothing and more. Current offerings include coats made with Mackintosh fabrics, accented with a dozen or more buttons wrapped in patterned fabric sourced from Scotland, and a motorcycle jacket constructed of the same waxed cotton used by Barbour. The women’s green bouclé jacket and contrasting-neon trenches are at once youthful and sophisticated in slim contemporary fits.

ramdane3.jpg

For a more subtle creative touch, Ramdane’s light-pastel sweaters feature multiple collars, while the thick angora cable knit cardigans remain true to classic form. The colorful corduroys are also well proportioned and have a fine hand. We found a favorite in the “Crisis Suit,” an ingenious design that has to be seen—or, ideally, tried on—for the full effect (Touhani put it on for us, but we couldn’t contain his exuberance long enough to get a proper shot of the suit). The three-in-one combination of jacket and vest has a base layer with suit-jacket sleeves and three different vest styles—tuxedo, double-breasted and countryside—to change-up the lapels.

ramdane10.jpg ramdane11.jpg

In an effort to bring superior fashion to a more inclusive audience, Ramdane sells his limited-run pieces in a relatively moderate range—sweaters go for around $200, coats for between $350 and $500 and pants for $200. Also of note, Ramdane is offering an extremely unique staggered payment system for customers under the age of 25, allowing for payment to be made in three installments over time. For now Ramdane is exclusively sold through the New York flagship.

To see the collection in motion watch “The Forrest,” a horror movie directed by Ramdane and produced for $500.

Ramdane
64 Kenmare Street
New York, NY 10012
Map


Ccchu Necklaces

Hong Kong-based designers create ornamental statement pieces with pompoms and tassels

cc3.jpg cc4.jpg

The husband-and-wife team behind the eco-friendly clothing line Ccchu, Ching Ching and Michael Chu, continue their exploration of what they describe on their Facebook page as “alternative ways of designing” with their recent collection of statement necklaces.

ccchu5.jpg ccchu6.jpg

The limited series of unique necklaces combines brightly-colored pompoms with massive tassels for a variety of bold pieces for those looking to make a statement. Their pièce de résistance, however, has to be the front-and-back necklace that fits around the bodice like a delicate harness, held together with a fine steel cable. But one crucial element of Ccchu’s appeal lies in how each of the adventurous strands is still easy to wear, and versatile enough for many different wardrobe styles.

cc1-2.jpg cc2.jpg

Based in Hong Kong, Ccchu jewelry sells online through London’s Darkroom store for £100-300 (about $171-480).


Fashion-Focused Museum Exhibits

Three exhibitions of photographs, films and fashion from Annie Lenox’s union jack pant-suit to Daphne Guiness’ personal McQueen collection

With the Spring/Summer 2012 Fashion Week in full swing in Europe right now, groundbreaking style is taking center stage on more than just the runways. While “Fashion in Italy: 150 Years of Elegance,” celebrates the country’s long-term evolution in styles and trends, and the birth of Italian prêt-a-porter, here are three more fashion-focused exhibits going on at museums around the globe.

Lennox-Union-Jack.jpg Lennox-Evening-Dress.jpg
The House of Annie Lennox at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Like many musical artists before and after her, Annie Lenox seamlessly integrated a unique personal style with her work as a musician to create an iconic pop star persona. This one-room installation, created in collaboration with Lenox herself, features photographs, costumes, and various mementos and ephemera chronicling the Scottish-born songstress’ four-decade career, including her years as one-half of the Eurythmics before continuing on as a solo artist. The collection presents Lennox’s personal style as one that dances between both genders. Though glam rockers Elton John and David Bowie most often cited for their Brit-inspired ensembles, visitors will be pleased to see the vivid union jack menswear-style suit, which she donned in 1999, alongside dazzling sequined dresses. Open through 26 February 2012.

Issey-Flying-Saucer.jpg Issey-2.jpg
Irving Penn and Issey Miyake: Visual Dialogue at 21 21 Design Sight, Tokyo

Encompassing 13 years and more than 250 photographs, the artistic partnership between Irving Penn and Issey Miyake, two creative giants in their respective fields, was an unlikely and curious one. After seeing Penn’s photographs of his garments in an American Vogue editorial, the Japanese designer asked Penn to shoot his entire collections, which he did from 1987 through 1999, resulting in an incredibly comprehensive compendium of images. What’s even more impressive is that during their 13-year collaboration, Miyake and Penn chose not to interfere with each other’s process. Miyake shipped his collections to New York, giving Penn complete artistic license during his photo sessions, while Penn never attended any of Miyake’s runway presentations. In addition to photographs from this period, the exhibition also includes an animated film short by cartoonist Michael Crawford.
Open through 8 April 2012.

Guiness-1.jpg Guiness-2.jpg
Daphne Guinness at the Museum at FIT, New York

Thanks in part to the recent, record-breaking Alexander McQueen show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Daphne Guinness, a friend and steadfast patron of the late designer, has become a popularly-known figure for her boundary-pushing taste. A champion of emerging designers, specifically those who embody a dark, avant-garde aesthetic (such as McQueen and Gareth Pugh), the brewery heiress’ has contributed 100 pieces from her own closet, including haute couture ensembles from Chanel, Givenchy, Lacroix and Valentino, as well as two dozen Alexander McQueen garments that have never been on display before. Accessories aren’t any less dramatic: consider her signature soaring heel-less platform shoes, or her dazzling “body armor” jewelry for a lesson in how not to be a wallflower. Several films by Guinness are also on display, including “The Phenomenology of the Body,” an examination of the politics of clothing.
Open through 7 January 2012.

Images in order from top courtesy of Image © V&A/La Lennoxa, The Irving Penn Foundation and The Museum at FIT.


Uniqlo Cubes

Japanese apparel giant blankets NYC with retail installations in advance of its largest store opening yet

Advertorial content:

uniqlo-cubes1.jpg

Savvy readers may have noticed that we were featured in the Voices of New York campaign last month, the first of many initiatives that Japanese apparel retailer Uniqlo undertook to celebrate the imminent arrival of their two latest NYC flagship stores. Since then, the brand has been literally putting itself on the map by dropping pop-up shops inside of tidy cubes (designed by our friends at HWKN) all over NYC to showcase signature products, like their colorful cashmere sweaters. As if setting up nearly 20 Uniqlo Cubes all across New York wasn’t enough, the brand also launched a preview of an upcoming addition to their activewear offering as styled by Nicola Formichetti.

uniqlo-nicolas2.jpg uniqlo-nicolas1.jpg

It’s easy to forget that Nicola Formichetti is Uniqlo’s Fashion Director, considering his ongoing work with Lady Gaga and designer role at Thierry Mugler. At his low-key TriBeCa storefront, Nicola’s, the Uniqlo Innovation Project, presented a step forward for Uniqlo’s sportier side that bears Formichetti’s touch. The sleek, sparse designs are injected with thoughtful design details that manage to balance style and necessity, with many pieces cut from Uniqlo’s well-known heat retention and water repellent high-tech fabrics. The full range presents a take on “how the future dresses” according to the collection’s site, and will be sure to please fans of versatile and stylish pieces that can transition from play to work and back again.

uniqlo-collection1.jpg

This weekend, Uniqlo Cubes will be present at the DUMBO Arts Festival helping to celebrate Brooklyn’s place in the art world. Featuring local, national, and international participants, the festival features over 500 participants. Visitors can experience everything from studio visits to musical performances. We particularly recommend paying a visit to experience the Leo Kuelbs Collection’s Immersive Surfaces presentation, which features artists’ works projected onto the stone anchorage that supports the Manhattan Bridge, turning DUMBO itself into a canvas.

uniqlo-immersive-surface.jpg

We’ll soon be launching a special edition of CH Local highlighting other upcoming events in NYC that Uniqlo Cubes will be present at, along with our favorite spots nearby, so stay tuned!

Uniqlo_620x90.jpg