Verlan Dress by Frances Bitonti and New Skins Workshop students

New York designer Francis Bitonti worked with students to 3D-print this dress using commercially available MakerBot machines (+ movie).

Francis Bitonti created the dress while leading a three-week digital fashion workshop over the summer, which aimed to introduce students to computer software and additive manufacturing equipment.

“The project wasn’t to design a garment, the project was to design a method of making form on the computer that could be deployed across the body,” said Bitonti.

Verlan Dress by Francis Bitonti

During the New Skins Workshop, students experimented with form-building software and created samples of their designs using the 3D printers.

“The MakerBot provided the students a direct link with the material world,” said Bitonti. “While they’re working on all these complex computer simulations they were able to get tactile, physical results through the MakerBot.”

Interim reviews of the groups’ work took place with guest critics, including designer Vito Acconci, who chose their favourite 3D-printed dress designs to develop.

Intricate patterning from one group and the silhouette from another were combined to create the final design, which was then printed in sections using a new flexible filament created by MakerBot.

“The idea was to create a landscape of geometric effects, things that would have different material behaviours in different parts of the body,” Bitonti said.

The result was a garment that referenced muscle fibres, veins and arteries to look like an inside-out body. It was named Verlan Dress after the French slang word for the reversal of syllables.

The workshop took place at the Digital Arts and Humanities Research Centre of the Pratt Institute in New York.

Bitonti previously worked with designer Michael Schmidt to create a dress for burlesque dancer Dita Von Teese using selective laser sintering. We’ve also featured 3D-printed clothing by Iris van Herpen and Catherine Wales.

Last month Microsoft began selling MakerBots in its US stores, while Makerbot unveiled a prototype of a desktop scanner earlier in the year. Read more about 3D printing in our one-off magazine Print Shift.

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Wilderness Embodied by Iris van Herpen

Spiny translucent 3D-printed collars were paired with magnetic dresses and shoes that looks like tree roots in Dutch fashion designer Iris van Herpen’s latest haute couture collection.

Wilderness Embodied by Iris van Herpen

Iris van Herpen‘s Wilderness Embodied collection included dresses and jewellery that combine 3D-printing technology and natural forms.

Wilderness Embodied by Iris van Herpen

“My Wilderness collection explores the wilderness that we as human have inside us as well as the wilderness in nature,” she told Dezeen.

Wilderness Embodied by Iris van Herpen

Pieces that wrapped around the length of the neck and extended down the chest were decorated with pointy globules tinted purple, blue and pink colours.

Wilderness Embodied by Iris van Herpen

These elements were repeated in symmetrical patterns on the see-through layers worn over neutral dresses.

Wilderness Embodied by Iris van Herpen

The collars and spiky elements on the dresses were designed in collaboration with architect Isaie Bloch and 3D-printed with additive manufacturing company Materialise.

Wilderness Embodied by Iris van Herpen

This season Van Herpen also worked with designer Jólan van der Wiel to create a pair of dresses grown using magnets – find out more about them in our previous story.

Wilderness Embodied by Iris van Herpen

“Natural forces like magnetism that are essential to life inspired me to not only use manmade techniques like 3D printing, but to combine technology with the creativity and power of nature itself,” Van Herpen said.

Wilderness Embodied by Iris van Herpen

Shown in Paris last month, the Autumn Winter 2013 collection also featured 3D-printed shoes that look like a tangle of roots designed with United Nude founder Rem D Koolhaas and printed by Stratasys.

Wilderness Embodied by Iris van Herpen

We’ve featured a few of Van Herpen’s previous collections that include 3D printing and interviewed the fashion designer for our one-off magazine Print Shift, during which she talked about how these technologies could transform the fashion industry.

Wilderness Embodied by Iris van Herpen

Recently we posted a collection of 3D-printed jewellery by Dorry Hsu, inspired by her fear of insects.

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Read on for more information sent to us by van Herpen:


Nature is wild. Generated by powerful forces. It proliferates by creating startling beauty.

For her fifth collection as an invited member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, Iris van Herpen focuses on the forces of nature, with a back and forth between innovation and craftsmanship. Beyond simple visual inspiration, this wonder of the natural world forms the basis of wild experimentation.

Wilderness Embodied by Iris van Herpen

With the help of artists, scientists and architects, Iris van Herpen explores the intricacies of these forces trough the medium of fashion, and the sensitive poetics that have long characterised her aesthetic vocabulary.

Wilderness Embodied by Iris van Herpen

Through her collaboration with artist Jolan van der Wiel, who has spent several years pondering the possibilities of magnetism, they have created dresses whose very forms are generated by the phenomenon of attraction and repulsion.

Wilderness Embodied by Iris van Herpen

Iris van Herpen draws equally upon the life force that pulses through the sculptures of David Altmejd. His wild organic forms derived from the regenerative processes of nature have greatly inspired Wilderness Embodied.

Wilderness Embodied by Iris van Herpen

She proposes to reach this wild nature freedom into the human body and soul. The human spirit is forged of this same vital energy, coursing and erupting through the limits of the body in such resplendent displays of extreme tradition or technology as piercings, scarification or surgery.

Wilderness Embodied by Iris van Herpen

This wild(er)ness of the human body, as unchecked as it is intimate, is one that the designer has sought to reveal the collection.Balancing respect for the traditions of atelier craftsmanship, with each garment subject to individual handwork, Iris van Herpen has nonetheless broadened the horizons of her domain: materials and processes.

Wilderness Embodied by Iris van Herpen

With architect Isaie Bloch and Materialise she continues to develop the innovative 3D-printed dresses, which she was the first to present in both static and flexible forms. On the one hand, her long-term collaboration with Canadian architect Philip Beesley and, on the other had, her partnership with United Nude’s Rem D. Koolhaas and Stratasys which has led to a line of shoes, help to spread the spirit of the collection.

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An Introvert’s Transformation to Extroversion by Lilian Hipolyte Mushi

An Introvert's Transformation to Extroversion by Lilian Hipolyte Mushi

Adornments that deploy robotic wings when someone gets too close or change colour when the wearer is embarrassed have been designed for introverts by Goldsmiths graduate Lilian Hipolyte Mushi.

An Introvert's Transformation to Extroversion by Lilian Hipolyte Mushi

“Layers we wear are the first boundary into our personal space,” says Lilian Hipolyte Mushi. “These structures allow introverts to gradually change their personal temperament continuum.”

When someone comes within just over 80 centimetres of the wearer of a dress covered with distance sensors, wooden arms shoot out into a fan from the back to keep people at arms length.

An Introvert's Transformation to Extroversion by Lilian Hipolyte Mushi

A pleated hood covered in thermochromic pigments gradually changes colour with fluctuations in body heat, which can occur when the wearer is shy or embarrassed.

The pleated sleeves of another garment are embedded with Nitinol wire, a shape-memory alloy that becomes rigid when heated. This expands the arms to twice the size and then collapses them back when cool, again highlighting changes in body temperature.

An Introvert's Transformation to Extroversion by Lilian Hipolyte Mushi

“This project explores how introverts use isolation as a mechanism for social recharge as well as a way to navigate social situations,” says the Goldsmiths graduate. “Furthermore, it is an exploration into how the psychology of introverts can be used in our societies and begs to find new ways to help people with social problems such as isolation and loneliness.”

An Introvert’s Transformation to Extroversion was on display at part one of the New Designers graduate exhibition in London, which ran from 27 to 29 June. Part two of the event takes place from 3 to 6 July.

An Introvert's Transformation to Extroversion by Lilian Hipolyte Mushi

Previously we’ve featured dresses that become see-through when the wearer’s heart rate increases and garments that move and light up when someone stares at them, which are both included in our digital fashion archive.

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This project explores how introverts use isolation as a mechanism for social recharge as well as a way to navigate social situations. Furthermore, it is an exploration into how the psychology of introverts can be used in our societies and begging to find new ways to help people with social problems such as isolation and loneliness.

An Introvert's Transformation to Extroversion by Lilian Hipolyte Mushi

“Yes I am an introvert, no I am not shy”.

These introverts have the ability to transform into extroverts in social situations by extending the boundaries of their introversion. Their battleground is the politics of personal space versus public space boundaries.

An Introvert's Transformation to Extroversion by Lilian Hipolyte Mushi

They have devised ways to find a balance between blending in and standing out, by using engineered structures to aid their transformation, whilst protecting their social identities in a world designed for extroverts.

Layers we wear are the first boundary into our personal space; these structures allow introverts a gradual change on their personal temperament continuum.

An Introvert's Transformation to Extroversion by Lilian Hipolyte Mushi

They aim to spread the power of introverts by sparking conversation amongst their spectators who admire them; and question the choices we make, of presenting and re-presenting ourselves.

Proxemics Protector

Distance sensor controls the space around this introvert’s body, deploying robotic inverted wings when a spectator is within 80.429cm of their proxemics.

An Introvert's Transformation to Extroversion by Lilian Hipolyte Mushi

Space Inflator

Nitinol Memory wire in the garment’s arms, allows this introvert’s body form to change state by inflating the arm structure when they are extroverted and collapsing when introverted.

Temperament Transformer

Thermal Chromic colour pigments display the gradual transformation process of this introvert by changing colour as they transform back and forth on the Introvert – Extrovert continuum.

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Project DNA by Catherine Wales

These 3D-printed accessories by London fashion designer Catherine Wales can be ordered to fit any body shape and printed on demand (+ slideshow).

dezeen_Project DNA by Catherine Wales_14

Wales creates a digital avatar of the prospective wearer using a 3D scanner so each piece can be custom designed and built specifically for their body shape.

dezeen_Project DNA by Catherine Wales_18

“[The idea] started with a message to the industry that we don’t need size labels in our garments,” Wales told Dezeen. “I felt that the fashion industry needed to integrate more techonology to reflect where society was going.”

dezeen_Project DNA by Catherine Wales_3

The Project DNA collection includes a corset with perforations across the bodice to hold elements resembling scaffolding, which connect to spherical joints that can be added to and altered. “I used my pattern-cutting knowledge to change form and accentuate or reduce parts of the body,” said Wales.

dezeen_Project DNA by Catherine Wales_7

A shoulder piece designed to emulate plumage and a mask that frames sections of the face also feature in the range. She created the attire using a combination of engineering programs to model complicated joints and creative software to build the sculptural forms.

dezeen_Project DNA by Catherine Wales_8

Local studio Digits2Widgets provided the equipment to laser sinter the pieces from nylon, which Wales used because “all the joints needed to be flexible.”

dezeen_Project DNA by Catherine Wales_10

The corset, shoulder adornment and horn mask are on display as part of an exhibition with 3D-printing platform Ground3D at the MoBA fashion biennale in Arnhem, the Netherlands. The event is curated by trend forecaster Li Edelkoort and themed Fetishism in Fashion, which continues until 21 July.

dezeen_Project DNA by Catherine Wales_11

“Corsets have been used in that area for centuries,” Wales states. “Restricting and changing the shape of the body through these accessories all fits in with the fetishism theme.”

dezeen_Project DNA by Catherine Wales_13

Earlier today we published a round-up of digital fashion on Dezeen, which includes dresses that squirm when they’re stared at and 3D-printed garments by Iris van Herpen.

dezeen_Project DNA by Catherine Wales_2

Van Herpen spoke to us about how 3D printing is revolutionising the fashion industry in an interview for our print-on-demand magazine Print Shift, predicting that “everybody could have their own body scanned and just order clothes that fit perfectly.”

Photography is by Christine Kreiselmaier.

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More information from the designer follows:


Project DNA is the three-dimensional accessories collection from London-based designer, Catherine Wales. At the helm of the world’s third industrial revolution, Catherine’s debut offering cross-pollinates high fashion, technology and science to re-evaluate conventional methods of garment construction and push the boundaries of digital fabrication within the luxury market.

dezeen_Project DNA by Catherine Wales_20

Inspired by identity and the visual structure of human chromosomes, Project DNA is created almost entirely with individual and interchangeable ball and socket components that allow it to be built in a number of directions. Produced using white nylon with a 3D printer, the eight-piece collection encompasses a scaffolded corset, a blossoming feathered shoulder piece and a waist bracelet complemented by four transformative headpieces that hide key areas of the face; including a guilded horn and a mirrored mask, and a cut out visor helmet.

dezeen_Project DNA by Catherine Wales_19

Catherine’s futuristic collection is completely unique and can be used both editorially to stimulate conceptual thinking and scientifically to develop the capabilities of luxury fashion prototyping within the 3D space.

dezeen_Project DNA by Catherine Wales_21

As an expert pattern cutter, Catherine originally approached Project DNA with a view to sustainably solve the current complications surrounding garment sizing and manufacturing restrictions. In this way, the collection embraces technological developments in order to cut down wastage and better support consumer demand.

Designs can be ordered and printed on demand.

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Dezeen archive: digital fashion

Dezeen archive: digital fashion

Digital fashion keeps cropping up on Dezeen, so here’s a round-up of our stories about experimental technology in clothes and accessories.

(No)where (Now)here: Two Gaze-activated Dresses by Ying Gao

pair of dresses by Ying Gao are embedded with eye-tracking technology, so they writhe and glow in the dark in response to a viewer’s gaze. She has also created garments that unfurl in reaction to light and clothes that move as if they’re breathing.

Intimacy 2.0 by Studio Roosegaarde

Studio Roosegarde created a series of dresses containing electrically-sensitive foils that become opaque or transparent according to alterations in voltage, so increased heart rate makes them see through.

Voltage by Iris van Herpen with Neri Oxman and Julia Koerner

3D-printing is becoming more prevalent in fashion design and Iris van Herpen regularly incorporates the technology into her work, such as the dresses in her most recent collection shown earlier this year that combine hard and soft materials for the first time.

Crystallization by Iris van Herpen, Daniel Widrig and .MGX by Materialise

She told us about how printing and scanning technologies are transforming the fashion industry in an interview for our 3D-printing magazine Print Shift.

Biomimicry Shoe by Marieka Ratsma and Kostika Spaho

Accessories are also following the trend, exemplified by 3D-printed shoes with a hollow heel modelled on a bird’s skull and a range of spectacles and sunglasses by Ron Arad printed in one piece.

LED hats by Moritz Waldemeyer for Philip Treacy

Spinning LEDs formed a hat in Philip Treacy’s show last September and outfits in Hussein Chalayan’s Spring Summer 2008 collection emitted laser beams, which were both created in collaboration with Moritz Waldemeyer.

Laser dresses by Hussein Chalayan for Swarovski
Laser dresses by Hussein Chalayan for Swarovski

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