Advances in design software mean “materials are becoming media”

Dezeen and MINI Frontiers: new technologies mean the design process is becoming akin to “creating a Hollywood film,” says designer Francis Bitonti, who created a seamless 3D-printed dress for burlesque dancer Dita von Teese.

Francis Bitonti portrait
Francis Bitonti. Copyright: Dezeen

Speaking about the development of the dress at the Wearable Futures conference in London in December, Bitonti says that developments in computer-based design and 3D printing mean that designers are no longer limited by their knowledge of materials.

“The separation between what you can simulate and what you can physically model is gone”, claims Bitonti, founder of New York luxury fashion studio Francis Bitonti Studio.

Francis Bitonti with Dita von Teese wearing the dress he and Michael Schmidt created for her
Francis Bitonti with Dita von Teese wearing the 3D-printed dress he and Michael Schmidt created for her

Von Teese premiered the 3D-printed dress designed by Bitonti and designer Michael Schmidt at the Ace Hotel in New York in March last year and it became one of the most talked-about fashion stories of the year.

“One of the things we’ve been noticing is that materials are becoming media. I’m not operating on materials, I’m operating on animations, I’m operating on video, I’m operating on pixels and polygons. [The design process] is a lot closer to creating a hollywood film than it is making an aluminium cylinder,” says Bitonti.

Dita von Teese dress by Francis Bitonti
Modelling the Dita von Teese dress

Possibilities are now limited by the designer’s imagination rather than material constraints, Bitonti says. “What I’m finding every day is that I can make anything I can draw. And I can make something behave any way I can imagine it behaving. The gap closes every day.”

Modelling the Dita von Teese dress by Francis Bitonti
Modelling the Dita von Teese dress by Francis Bitonti

Prior to launching Francis Bitonti Studio, Bitonti trained as an architect. He says this background proved useful when designing the figure-hugging dress for the American model and burlesque dancer Dita von Teese.

Manufacturing one of the pieces of the Dita von Teese dress
Manufacturing one of the pieces of the Dita von Teese dress

“I found that developing a second skin for the body wasn’t really that much different from thinking about a building facade. It’s about breaking up shapes in pretty much the same way,” he says.

The seamless dress, which he developed last year, was made out of 3000 unique moving parts made using selective laser sintering (SLS), where material is built up in layers from plastic powder fused together with a laser.

Manufacturing one of the pieces of the Dita von Teese dress
Manufacturing one of the pieces of the Dita von Teese dress

The two-day Wearable Futures conference explored how smart materials and new technologies are helping to make wearable technology one of the most talked-about topics in the fields of design and technology.

Dita von Teese dress by Francis Bitonti
Detail of the DIta von Teese dress

Bitonti is not the only designer exploring the fashion possibilities of 3D-printing.

Last year fashion designer Iris van Herpen and shoe designer Rem D Koolhaas collaborated to create 3D-printed shoes that look like tree roots and creative director of 3D Systems Janne Kyttanen designed a range of 3D-printed shoes for women that can be made at home overnight to be worn the next day.

Dita von Teese dress by Francis Bitonti
Dita von Teese

The music featured in the movie is a track by DJ Kimon. You can listen to his music on Dezeen Music Project.

Dezeen and MINI Frontiers is a year-long collaboration with MINI exploring how design and technology are coming together to shape the future.

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Microbes are “the factories of the future”

Dezeen and MINI Frontiers: Suzanne Lee of BioCouture explains how she makes clothes that are “grown using bacteria” in this movie filmed at the Wearable Futures conference in London in December.

Suzanne Lee portrait
Suzanne Lee

“There’s a whole spectrum of organisms that can grow material,” says Lee, who founded BioCouture to explore how organisms like bacteria, yeast, fungi and algae could be harnessed to produce fabrics.

Lee showed the Wearable Futures audience a range of jackets and shoes made from bio-materials produced by bacteria in a vat of liquid to produce bacterial cellulose – a material that has similar properties to leather.

BioBomber jacket
BioBomber jacket

“The recipe that I’ve been exploring to grow a piece of clothing is using a symbiotic mix of yeast and bacteria,” she said. “It’s a fermentation method that grows you bacterial cellulose. It’s kind of like a vegetable leather if you like.”

She adds: “What attracts me to it is that it’s compostable. It’s not just biodegradable, it’s compostable. So you could throw it away like you would your vegetable peelings.”

Biocouture BioShoe
BioCouture BioShoe

BioCouture is a London-based design consultancy that is pioneering the use of bio-materials for the fashion, sportswear and luxury sectors.

Lee is a former senior research fellow at the School of Fashion & Textiles at Central Saint Martin’s College of Art & Design, and author of the 2007 book Fashioning The Future: tomorrow’s wardrobe, which was the first publication to explore how technology could transform fashion.

Biocouture shoe inside
BioCouture Bioshoe

“Through an engagement with biology I’m really excited about how we can think about organisms like microbes as the factories of the future,” says Lee. “What most people know BioCouture for is a series of garments that were grown using bacteria. So the fibres, the material itself and the formation of the garment has been done by a microbe rather than a plant.”

Biocouture BioSkirt. Photograph by House Of Radon
BioCouture BioSkirt. Photograph by House Of Radon

In future, Lee believes that clothing materials themselves could be living organisms that could work symbiotically with the body to nourish it and even monitor it for signs of disease.

“What we have right now are living organisms making us materials, but then the organism is killed and the material just exists like any other,” she says.

Biocouture BioSkirt. Photograph by House Of Radon
BioCouture BioSkirt. Photograph by House Of Radon

“But I can imagine that we will eventually move towards the material itself being living while it’s on you, and having a direct relationship to your whole body in this happy micro-biome environment and perhaps diagnosing and treating, nourishing in some way the body surface so becoming part of your wellbeing.”

The two-day Wearable Futures conference explored how smart materials and new technologies are helping to make wearable technology one of the most talked-about topics in the fields of design and technology.

BioCouture material
BioCouture material

The music featured in the movie is a track by DJ Kimon. You can listen to his music on Dezeen Music Project.

Dezeen and MINI Frontiers is a year-long collaboration with MINI exploring how design and technology are coming together to shape the future.

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Virtual and augmented reality technology will converge in digital “contact lens”

Dezeen and MINI Frontiers: augmented and virtual reality visualisation technologies will soon be combined in one device, says Andy Millns of 3D production company Inition in the final part of our interview. 

Google Glass
Google Glass: an example of an augmented reality device

“I think augmented reality and virtual reality will essentially converge into the same thing”, says Millns.

The co-founder of Inition explains that the next generation of appliances will blur the once-clear distinction between augmented technology devices like Google Glass and virtual reality devices like the Oculus Rift headset.

“There’s two strains of headsets: the Google Glass-type which only gives you a small image in the corner of your field of view.” says Millns, referring to Google’s augmented reality spectacles which can overlay digital information like maps and internet searches into the user’s field of vision.

A view through Google Glass
A view through Google Glass

“The other strain is the Oculus Rift type, which is designed to replace the entire world and give you a high resolution and the biggest picture possible.” says Millns, referring to the strap-on motion-responsive virtual reality googles from Oculus VR.

Oculus Rift headset
Oculus Rift headset: an example of a virtual reality device

“Eventually those two things will converge [into] some sort of contact lens which goes in your eye and does both of those things. It will give you a huge image at high resolution but also the ability to see through and mix images with the real world”, says Millns.

Artist's impression of an everyday augmented reality view, for Google Glass
Artist’s impression of an everyday augmented reality view, for Google Glass

Millns also predicts that the integration between displays and humans will become tighter and tighter, leading to what he calls a “cyborg situation where you have something embedded inside your brain that has a direct interface to your visual cortex.”

Andy Millns of Inition portrait
Andy Millns of Inition. Copyright: Dezeen

This is the third in a series of interviews with Millns. In the first he predicted that advances in virtual reality will “blur the line between what’s virtual and what’s real” and in the second he discussed how augmented reality technology will revolutionise the way we navigate cities.

The music featured in the movie is a track by Floyd Lavine. You can listen to Lavine’s music on Dezeen Music Project. Contact lens image is courtesy of Shutterstock.

Dezeen and MINI Frontiers  is a year-long collaboration with MINI exploring how design and technology are coming together to shape the future.

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Augmented reality devices “in your eye” will change how we see the world

Dezeen and MINI Frontiers: augmented reality technology will revolutionise the way we navigate cities, says Andy Millns of 3D production company Inition in the second part of our interview.

Andy Millns of Inition portrait
Andy Millns of Inition. Copyright: Dezeen

Augmented reality devices that are tiny enough to “sit in your eye” will soon add layers of digital information over the real world, says Millns.

Users will be able to see whole cities with information layered on top of them via tiny devices placed in the eye, completely changing their urban experience, he claims.

“When we can track natural features in the city we can [then] bring in all sorts of information layered on to the urban view.” This could include information related to travel, shopping, the proximity of friends and so on.

Inition augmented reality architecture installation
This augmented reality app in an iPad tracks the printed pattern on the podium to generate a 3D architectural model

The adoption of this technology will be helped by the second major development Millns predicts.

“Most augmented reality so far [works] using a two-dimensional flat marker,” says Millns, referring to 2D-printed marker patterns that interface with digital models on devices like iPads to render augmented reality views.

This tracking method limits augmented reality to fairly rudimentary usages – but not for long.

Inition augmented reality architecture installation for Zaha Hadid
One of Zaha Hadid Architects’ models tracked by an augmented reality app

“In the future we won’t need [to use] two-dimensional specific markers, the augmented reality app will just track the natural environment”, he says.

Couple this with more sophisticated viewing technologies, and the use of augmented reality will soar, Millns claims: “When we have devices that just sit in your eye and it’s not obvious you are wearing them – that’s when augmented reality will really take off.”

Inition augmented reality architecture installation for Zaha Hadid
Augmented reality rendering of Zaha Hadid Architects’ model

Today’s augmented reality relies on an intermediary device such as a smartphone or tablet, on which the user sees an “augmented” version of the world.

“One example of using augmented reality that people might be familiar with is using a tablet,” says Millns. “We use a live image via the camera and we layer on objects to make them appear as if they are really there.”

Inition augmented reality architecture installation for Zaha Hadid
Augmented reality rendering of Zaha Hadid Architects’ model, showing wind-flow diagrams

This technology is used at Dezeen’s Imagine Shop at Selfridges that features two installations developed by Inition, an augmented-reality watch store and a walkaround digital model of Zaha Hadid’s £300 million superyacht.

The augmented reality Dezeen Watch Store pop-up allows customers to virtually try on a range of watches. By wrapping a paper “marker” around their wrist and looking at a screen, customers can see the watches modelled on their wrists in real time.

Augmented-reality- demonstration-at-Dezeens-Imagine-Shop- for-Selfridges-644x362
The Dezeen Watch Store pop-up at Selfridges’ Festival of Imagination

Customers can also explore an augmented reality scale model of Zaha Hadid Architects’ 90-metre Jazz superyacht using a tablet computer.

By pointing an iPad at a printed marker resting on a platform, they can view and walk round the yacht as if it was really there.

Inition medical augmented reality installation
Augmented reality models are used for medical research and teaching

Based in Shoreditch, east London, Inition specialises in using new technologies such as virtual and augmented reality to create a range of experiences and installations.

Inition has built augmented reality models for several developers to help promote their buildings as well as architects, including Zaha Hadid for whom they developed a model which explored the effects of different airflows and lighting on the building.

We interviewed Andy Millns in Inition’s Shoreditch studio. The music featured in the movie is a track by Floyd Lavine. You can listen to Lavine’s music on Dezeen Music Project.

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Advances in virtual reality will “blur the line between what’s virtual and what’s real”

Dezeen and MINI Frontiers: in our first movie looking at the interface between design and technology, Andy Millns of 3D production company Inition claims virtual reality will soon become almost indistinguishable from the real world. 

Andy Millns of Inition portrait

Based in Shoreditch, east London, Inition specialises in using new technologies such as virtual reality to create a range of experiences and installations.

“Virtual reality was the technology that set me off on this career path in the first place,” says Millns. “I was absolutely obsessed with virtual reality in the early nineties; now it’s very exciting that the hardware has finally got to the point where the experience matches people’s expectations.”

Oculus Rift virtual reality headset

The studio has been working with the developer version of Oculus Rift, a virtual reality headset that was announced on crowd-funding website Kickstarter in 2012. The consumer version is currently in development and expected to launch this year.

“Oculus Rift has been sort of the poster child for virtual reality,” says Millns, before going on to explain how straightforward the device is. “What you’ve got essentially is a seven-inch mobile phone-type screen and two lenses. It’s that simple.”

Oculus Rift virtual reality headset

The developer version of Oculus Rift has a very low-resolution screen, but with the pixel density of mobile phone screens rapidly increasing, Millns says it won’t be long before virtual reality becomes as life-like as the real world.

“We’re going to see this year a headset where it’s starting to get quite difficult to distinguish whether you’re actually wearing a headset or not,” he says. “When we start to get super-high-resolution headsets with the type of display technology that we’re seeing on the market now, it’s gong to blur the line between what is reality and what is virtual.”

Monolith by Gareth Pugh and Inition at Selfridges

It’s most recent project using the Oculus Rift device was a collaboration with the fashion designer Gareth Pugh called Monolith, which was installed last month at Selfridges for the London department store’s Festival of Imagination.

Monolith by Gareth Pugh and Inition at Selfridges

Visitors entered a soundproofed booth and put on a special helmet, which transported them on a virtual reality journey through monochromatic cityscapes populated by ghostly figures based on the sculptural costumes Pugh created for the Royal Ballet.

“You walk into the store, put the headset on and you’re immersed in a three-minute experience inside the world of Gareth Pugh,” Millns explains.

Monolith by Gareth Pugh and Inition at Selfridges

The music featured in the movie is a track by Floyd Lavine. You can listen to Lavine’s music on Dezeen Music Project.

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line between what’s virtual and what’s real”
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Dezeen and MINI Frontiers launches today

Today we’re launching Dezeen and MINI Frontiers – a major, year-long collaboration with MINI that will explore how design and technology are coming together to shape the future.

Over the coming year we’ll be looking at some of the most exciting developments in emerging fields such as augmented reality, wearable technology, synthetic biology, robotics and mobility.

Subtitled “Where design and technology connect”, Dezeen and MINI Frontiers will take us on a journey of discovery. Through a series of videos we’ll be speaking to the most interesting, established and emerging talents from around the world who are working at the frontiers of these disciplines.

We’ll be investigating the way that connectivity between previously separate disciplines is creating new hybrids, new originals and new ways of working that promise to change for the better the way we live and work.

We look forward to sharing our discoveries with you over the next 12 months.

Look out for our first movie tomorrow, in which Andy Millns of 3D technology company Inition discusses how virtual reality is fast becoming as life-like as the real world.

In September we’ll be teaming up with six leading creatives to explore the future of mobility in an exhibition at London Design Festival – details to be announced soon.

Marcus Fairs
Editor-in-chief, Dezeen

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